I've never been able to resolve 0070 without replacing the pump. You can swap in a used unit without cracking the brake lines if you a very careful. Just remove the mounting screws for the hydraulic block to gain access to the two torx screws that hold the pump motor in place. Cafully pull the pump motor out, making sure to leave the round bearing inside the hydraulic unit. Put the new one in and clear the codes.

Pro tip if you're pulling from a salvage yard. If you pull the pump motor out and excessive amounts of the carbon brushes falls out that pump is probably bad.

 

Thats good news and a great tip. Thanks! Can I pull any 04-07 P2 pump? Or is there a part number/serial I need to match up? I think i saw a number on the back, but cant remember for sure.

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I had this code on my '05 XC. I just replaced the motor (sourced from a salvage car) rather than the whole BCM. It's been working great for close to two years now

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...33633-BCM-0070-Indy-Volvo-thinks-it-s-pump-not-the-module&p=4479409#post4479409

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=77863

 

Somehow I missed that thread in my searching. Pretty much all the info I need! Thank you!

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Just to wrap this thread up, I did what was mentioned in the posts linked above. I installed an abs/pump motor from a junkyard 05 XC90 and cleared the code. I've put about 750+/- miles on the used pump. So far, so good. Thanks again for the help.

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XC70 ABS Pump motor faulty signal

So I've followed this forum for a few years and have gained a ton of valuable information for my 2006 XC70 AWD with DSTC. One thing that has perplexed me was when I first bought the car, the PO never had the car re-aligned after a minor front end crash. I bought it in January and here in east central PA the winter can be icy and miserable. The steering wheel was
skewed to the left and I really thought nothing of it at the time except in icy / snow covered roads it seemed that the car would be trying to adjust itself and it was tough to handle. I didn't know at the time it was the stability control trying to correct a yaw situation several times a minute due to the steering alignment. After getting new tires and an alignment, the car was now fine and driving perfectly. Fast forward to the summer months and the 90 degree temperatures and now when the car would warm up the Anti skid service light would come on along with the ABS light. So after reading several posts about the solder joints in the module possible being weak and cracking open the module to re-flow the joints and all the other possible remedies I also came across the thoughts that it could be the pump motor itself and maybe try swapping a motor from a JY since you can't but them separate from the module and pump itself at a cost way too high for me to justify, I thought about my problem logically and figured that under normal conditions a regular ABS unit would only activate the motor when the car is placed in a skid situation meaning that the motor would not be run all that often unless the operator had many hard braking scenarios. Except in my particular car (DSTC) when I first bought it the anti skid was running "overtime" using the motor a lot. So I pulled the motor from my car following the careful instructions from these forums to be careful to ensure that the small bearing remains inside the aluminum block. I opened the motor (simple 12V motor) and as I suspected it was full of carbon from the brushes in the simple motor. The brushes were no longer able to make contact with the commutator causing the self diagnostics to see that there was a faulty power supply to the motor itself because the circuit was not complete so it shut itself down. After cleaning and replacing the small 5x5 mm brushes in the motor and putting it all back together, the car is flawlessly operating with no lights and full anti skid now.
I only put this here so others may benefit from my situation and possibly save themselves a crap ton of money and time. Remember that the motor is a simple 12V brush motor just like older cordless power drills and many other electronic devices that have their brushes wear out over time causing them to lose contact with the commutator. Very easy fix if you take your time.

 

XC70 ABS Pump motor faulty signal

I opened the motor (simple 12V motor) and as I suspected it was full of carbon from the brushes in the simple motor. The brushes were no longer able to make contact with the commutator causing the self diagnostics to see that there was a faulty power supply to the motor itself because the circuit was not complete so it shut itself down. After cleaning and replacing the small 5x5 mm brushes in the motor and putting it all back together, the car is flawlessly operating with no lights and full anti skid now.

Where did you source the brushes? Im having a hard time finding 5mm x 5mm brushes with the cable attached to the side. There are tons of then with the cable attached to the back inside a spring. And how did you re-attach them to the little connectors?

 

I just had this code show up on my car last week. I tried another fix and so far it's working fine. You still have to remove the pump motor from the ABS block. Instead of replacing it, I separated the motor shell/magnets from the rotor, blew all the carbon deposits from each, and reassembled.

 

Between this thread on the one on Matthews Volvo Site, had the confidence to tackle this job myself. It is way easier than I anticipated, even after reading through some threads. Not much in the way of photos or video, except about removing the whole module. So here are some pics from my wrenching.

Disconnect battery in trunk.

Module located behind/under fuse box and in front of master cylinder.

Close up view.

Remove fuse box front screw.

Remove positive (+) terminal nut and wire.

Remove other fuse box screw.

Move fuse box aside.

 

Remove three screws holding BCM to bracket.

Push ABS pump forward to reveal Torx screw. Only push enough to reveal screw - recall, the hard brake lines are connected to the module, so pushing too aggressively might damage the brake lines.

Remove two Torx screws. A long screwdriver kinda accesses the rear screw, but I found a ratchet with a 1/4" socket holding a Torx bit worked better. Black electrical tape holds the Torx bit to the socket so the bit doesn't fall out and behind the engine into oblivion.

Gently rotate the ABS pump back and forth while pulling up. It will come up. There isn't any mechanical locking mechanism to overcome or wiggle out. Just the friction of the seal on bottom of the pump to the aluminum housing.

Close up of the interface of the ABS pump to the module. None of the bits fell out on me, but other sources suggested being careful. Notice the steel donut shaped bearing int he middle with several roller bearing around it. I applied a skim coat of grease onto the pump shaft before reassembling.

Put everything back together and hopefully it works for you and saves you a boat load of money!

Cheers,
Melvin

 

Thank you so much for the help everyone! I have a question, if I am looking for the pump, does the part number have to match the number on my ABS module? For example, the sticker on my ABS unit shows p30643979, do I have to look for another p30643979 to extract the pump from?