update: I checked the volts and the battery and starter seem fine. When I installed the elec. ignition, i ran the black wire to the negative terminal on the coil. there is no positive terminal on the coil for me to run the red wire to. there was an empty terminal on the fuse box that has power when the car is in the on position, but no power when the car is off. i ran the red wire to that. maybe that is the issue?

i tried starting the car after waiting about 15 minutes. the car started on the first crank. not sure what to think of it. before, it just cranked slowly and never turned over.

 

You must have a short somewhere. Unhook both the distributor wires, does it now turn over quickly as should? This test will show you if the new install caused an issue or if it is just coincidence. If it turns over as should without distributor power hooked up you have a short somewhere in your install. Check that you did not fray a wire, or that your hot lead is not hitting the distributor casing etc. If still doesn't turn over you have most likely a grounding issue somewhere.

 

I will try that. After I managed to start it. I turned it back off and let it sit. Tried starting again. It slow cranked for 5-6 seconds then started up.

I will try that test

 

I unhooked both wires. It does turn over quickly like before.

 

The way you wired up the Pertronix seems like it should be OK as long as that fuse is energized only when the key is in the run or start position. You don't want the Pertronix energized when the key is in the accessory position.

If you have a multimeter, have someone measure the voltage on the + terminal of the starter motor when you engage the starter. Do this with the Pertronix module connected and with the module disconnected. A low voltage on the starter motor + terminal is the only thing that can cause the starter motor to turn the engine over slowly (short of the starter being faulty). If everything is OK, the voltage on the starter + terminal will probably be around 10 volts or a little higher when the starter is engaged. If the voltage on the starter + terminal is 10 volts or more with the Pertronix disconnected; but, drops with the Pertronix connected, something is wrong.

I would be surprised if the Pertronix is causing the voltage to drop while it is connected. If the Pertronix was somehow shorting out, it would have to be a pretty big short to cause the voltage to drop and I think the module would be cooked pretty quickly. Perhaps have a quick look at the module to see if there is anything burnt. It is possible that the red power wire to the Pertronix module is shorting on the body of the distributor which is causing the problem. Perhaps the smoke you smelled was coming from the distributor rather than the starter. Possible since they are in relatively close proximity.

 

A low voltage on the starter motor + terminal is the only thing that can cause the starter motor to turn the engine over slowly (short of the starter being faulty).

Overly advanced ignition timing can cause the starter motor to turn the engine over slowly. And if the timing hasn't been adjusted after the swap, this is a likely scenario.

Cameron
Portland OR

 

The Pertronix needs 12v when the starter is engaged and when the key is in the "run" position and Zero volts when the key is switched off. None of the fusebox terminals meet those criteria. This is where the ipd 'diode wire kit' (or, if you're handy with wiring, a couple diodes and wires and terminals) come into play for those cars with the original armored coil.

Also, you'll need to reset the timing when converting. Once in a long while it's still in the ballpark, but that's really unusual.

Cameron
Portland OR

 

I was thinking the same thing that the Pertronix would not be getting power when the starter is engaged; however, in post #2 he says he got the car to start. Mystery!

Edit:

If he connected to fuse #4, he could get +12v all the time.

 

im going to check the timing of the distributor tomorrow morning. I didn't do the timing at all after install. Something of note possibly - The red wire volts don't read a full 12v at the fuse. It reads between 11.6 and 11.8

 

11.6 - 11.8 volts is good enough considering the age of the car. However, the voltage at the fuse is not what is important in terms of the starter motor. You need to measure the voltage at the big connection to the starter solenoid (carefully so you don't short anything).

 

I will definitely do the timing. I just started the car again on the first crank. So it slow cranks about 80-90 percent of the time. When it does slow crank, after a couple of times turning the car off then trying again, it will start.

Will let you guys know what happens after I do the distro timing.

Sorry to bother with something else. But after I installed the pertronix, I took it for a spin. In third and forth gears, I hear the sound similar to a spray can rattle on acceleration. Didn't hear it before the install. Not sure if related or I'm imagining things cause I was already paranoid about the install.

 

Sorry to bother with something else. But after I installed the pertronix, I took it for a spin. In third and forth gears, I hear the sound similar to a spray can rattle on acceleration. Didn't hear it before the install. Not sure if related or I'm imagining things cause I was already paranoid about the install.

That's the sound of overly advanced ignition timing. Set it to spec and that'll be resolved.

Cameron
Portland OR

 

The starter solenoid gets 12v

 

Another gentleman on this forum suggested that I should run the red wire from the distributor to the the positive wire coming out of the coil shield under the dash to the ignition switch(it's cutrently routed to the fuse box). I shall try that tomorrow morning.

 

I would get the diode harness from iPd and follow the directions. It's really the only way to do it "right" without cutting into the armored ignition cable. It's only something like $10.

 

The armored ignition shield stops about 4-5 inches before the ignition switch. A black cable comes out and is attached to the terminal. But if I need to get the diode kit I will.

 

The armored ignition shield stops about 4-5 inches before the ignition switch

In that case you are all set. Hook the Red wire from the Pertronix to that wire, so the switch, coil+ and Pertronix Red are all together. You've already connected the Pertronix Black to the coil- terminal.

Then, start the engine and set the timing with a light. You'll be good to go.

 

I holed the red wire to the coil wire going to the ignition. Still has a slow crank. Cranks even slower it seems. But that may be because the engine is cold

 

Cranks even slower it seems. But that may be because the engine is cold

Again, we think it's a slow crank because the ignition is WAY advanced. The spark is going off while the piston is in the fat part of its compression stroke, this basically whacks it the wrong way and the starter can't overcome it. If you can't start it at all, try turning the distributor counterclockwise about 20 or 30 degrees, this will move the timing about 10 or 15 in the proper direction. Once it starts, time it properly with a light.

The reason for this is that the Pertronix has a magnetic sensor which is undoubtedly in a different position from the original point lobe. Perfectly expected, but perfectly in need of final adjustment.

 

With ignition on. Red wire from distro connected to ignition coil gets 11.6v. Black wire from distro connected to coil gets .9v

 

Ok. Will do that. Thanks for the help guys. Will post with results

 

Rotated the distro counterclockwise until it started. Had to jump the car though. Let it warm up for about 10-15 minutes and then adjusted it until it was idling at 800 rpm. Drove it around. Seems to drive fine.

 

Will fine tune everything this weekend, but Adjusting the timing did the trick. I appreciate everyones input and help. Couldnt have figured it out without the forum, thats for sure.

 

Good to hear! Why did you have to jumpstart it? Is there a live connection draining somewhere?

 

I guess after trying to turn it over so much. I had to make adjustments to timing then try and start. Adjust then try. It was draining the battery. I haven't found any live connections

 

Are you setting it without a timing light? They're pretty cheap still, and necessary for an old car like this. Or are you just talking about getting it to fire the first time?

 

Getting it to fire for the first time.

 

Update: adjusted the timing using a light about two weeks ago. It's been slowly resorting back to slow cranks. Right now it slow cranks for 3-10 seconds then fires right up. Distributor is tightened down fine and hasn't moved.

 

Make sure you're charging at more than 13.5 volts, ideally right around 14. 13 or less and you might just be not charging the battery good enough.

 

Now it doesn't start at all. No lights on dash. I checked the volts from starter solenoid ground to solenoid power and I only get 7 volts. I checked grounds. Can't find anything. Cleaned terminals at starter and fuse box. Fuse box does get power. I ran jumper negative cable from battery to solenoid negative and the lights come on when I turn the key but if I try and start it will just click and then no lights on dash anymore

Most likely starter is bad?

 

Have you tested the battery?