I told you that you would loose the center channel and the ProLogic when you went to an aftermarket HU.
I told you with proper time alignment of the L and R front door channels that you would not need the center channel or any of the rear drivers.
As long as you typically drive alone. And don’t listen to talk radio. I’m pretty sure we had this conversation.


If you have rear A/C then you do not have a subwoofer. They are mutually exclusive as they occupy the same location in the way back.
At least that’s true for non Dyn audio. Not 100% sure on yours.

The kit they offer has an amp which would drive the factory sub, if you have one, or a small sub/enclosure. Look at Kicker, Alpine, JL Audio for an enclosure style that you can live with.

If you want serious bumps though, your gunna need a better amp, sub, and power wire.

 

I remember that conversation. I really wanted to know if there was a way to retain the center channel, but I guess it's just not worth it. I was doing the research and found the same thing about the rear A/C and the subwoofer being mutually exclusive. I remember in your install, you had to remove the second row of seats to add two subwoofers. If I don't want to sacrifice the trunk area all that much, is a subwoofer install possible?

 

No aftermarket HU has a Dolby tune. Music isn't engineered for surround sound like movies so there really isn't a need.
At some point, Andy Wehmeyer promises to bring out a DSP that will create the feel of a one seat sound stage in all the seats.
With current DSP's you could certainly create a center channel but I don't believe you can get a Dolby tune for an aftermarket DSP.
With most DSP's you can save a couple different tunes so if you wanted to create a tune that uses the center channel for talk radio or sports and then a different tune for music, you could.
But then you'd need a dsp and an amp with a bunch of channels.
Stick with me and you'll wind up with a $15k audio system in a $3k car real fast.

My solution for bumps is extreme, to say the least.
But it's worked out well because I've used the space to haul tools around for my day job repairing boats and my side job remodeling houses.
I even used it working for UPS last peek season as a PVD.
You certainly don't need to do this to get a sub in the system. Just find a preloaded sub/enclosure that will occupy a space you can live with.
You don't even need a sub, really. If you added this amp: https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/lc-4800/ You could drive the front doors with 1 & 2, the rear doors with 3 & 4 and tune out everything but the bass to the rear doors.
I did this at first with the factory system, you could tune out everything in the rear but the bass.
Then I added an LC2i and a sub amp and sub.
Then I did the aftermarket HU and a couple amps.
Then I took out the middle middle seat and did a custom center box enclosure/arm rest kinda thing.
Then I took out all the seats and added another amp and two subs.
I'm kinda, half way, thinking of redoing the back to add this:

It's a dark hole.

 

Interesting. I'm debating whether or not a subwoofer is even worth it, at this point. It seems like it takes up cargo space and costs a decent amount if I go the good quality way (which I would). That being said, I think I'll adjust the EQ on my HU. I don't really know anything about time alignment, filters, and the other audiophile settings there are on there, so I think I'll mess around with those and try to optimize my current setup. Thanks for the info.

 

Maybe start on the other end of the sound quality issue. I ripped all my music from CD to .flac. Next problem was an Android app that would handle the library. Found out that there's a world of difference in sound playback engineered into the Android apps. Best apps for thumpa-thumpa bass are Poweramp, Media Monkey, and Neutron. All compressed formats are lossy, so listening to Pandora or even FM radio and expecting concert-hall chills up and down your spine just won't happen. You can get enough bass to annoy everyone within 100 yards with just hardware, though

 

Absolutely, quality of source material and source player does make a difference.
My songs played over the new HU’s WiFi CarPlay sounds so much better than BT.

You can accentuate bass by turning down the mids and highs. Of course this only works if the bass info is actually there. Hence the need for a sub.

 

Absolutely, quality of source material and source player does make a difference.
My songs played over the new HU's WiFi CarPlay sounds so much better than BT.

You can accentuate bass by turning down the mids and highs. Of course this only works if the bass info is actually there. Hence the need for a sub.

Right. I'm just not sure if I want to spend that extra amount on a "want" rather than a "need". I'll think about it though, and will do some research on just how much of an improvement adding subs does.

Thanks everyone.