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CYB3RBYTE

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey fellas,

The OEM clutch kit is on it's way here and should arrive tomorrow. I'm having a friend help me replace the A/C clutch and pulley Wednesday night.

Heres the puller I plan to use to take the pulley off. Ignore the new compressor, it's going back immediately as I shouldn't need it if only the clutch was the issue.





The questions I have:

Is there a process to getting it off besides removing belts, unbolting 10mm inner bolt, removing clutch, and then undoing the snap ring?

How do I get the new clutch and pulley on? I don't want to straight up hammer it.

Do these clutches come pre shimmed, with the washers already inside the clutch, or if not how many do I put in?

Thank you for your help.
 
Uninstall is correct. If you bought it as an assembly it already comes properly gapped. Once you dissemble/reassemble you should check it and adjust your shims accordingly. Double check in your manual but should be .012"'s. I've always used a small block of wood across the pulley and just tap it back on, doesn't take much. Goes on muck easier if you use some freeze-off on the shaft just prior to install, can almost do it by hand!
 
Heres the puller I plan to use to take the pulley off.
Is there a process to getting it off besides removing belts, unbolting 10mm inner bolt, removing clutch, and then undoing the snap ring?

How do I get the new clutch and pulley on? I don't want to straight up hammer it.

Do these clutches come pre shimmed, with the washers already inside the clutch, or if not how many do I put in?
The clutch is 3 pieces, the clutch plate, the inner hub/pulley and bearing and the electromagnet.

Take the outer hub off with an ac clutch puller - not the one shown, use an ac clutch puller that screws into the 3 bolts holes in the face of the clutch plate, pressing against a longer 6mm bolt.
Take now visible snap ring off - and use the puller shown to remove hub and bearing assembly.
Remove and replace electromagnet.
Gently tap new inner hub and bearing into place, reinstall snap ring.
Install the new outer clutch plate using a random thickness of shims - try to get gap to .3mm or below. (.3mm=.012inches) Gently tap or screw into place. You may have to remove the plate a few of times to get the gap correct. I trust you have some calipers or a micrometer and some feeler gauges.

Why are you replacing the clutch? Is the bearing bad? If you are replacing the clutch because the ac stops working after a while when hot outside - and the clutch gap is too large - you can simply remove shims to hopefully attain the correct clutch gap.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I’m replacing the clutch because I previously tried to shim it, but because someone had been doing such a thing previously, and stripped the clutch bolt holes (the three triangular ones) I had to result to removing the clutch via a screwdriver, and now the clutch and pulley are bent and the pulley was making a noise as though it was contacting the compressor casing. The actual compressor itself felt fine.

My question is, about how many shims does it take to get it to 0.12, I’m scared to remove the brand new clutch again using the holding tool so I’d like to get it right the first time if I can.
 
My question is, about how many shims does it take to get it to 0.12,
.12 inches, or .3mm. - There's no way to know - reusing the old shims (if there are any left) might be a good start.

Someone could have stripped the 3 holes because they didn't understand that you have to use a longer bolt in the compressor shaft for the triangular puller to press against.
 
I believe he is referring to the diameter of the bolt being M6, not the length. I also tried removing the pulley but couldn't get it off with my cheapo tool. I ended up bending all kinds of bolts/washers. I bought a beefier tool but haven't tried again yet.
 
I think I recall the three threaded holes in the pulley being M5's. The center bolt is an M6.
 
Discussion starter · #12 · (Edited)
I also tried removing the pulley but couldn't get it off with my cheapo tool. I ended up bending all kinds of bolts/washers. I bought a beefier tool but haven't tried again yet.
This is why I'm replacing the pulley now, I'm afraid of ruining the new pulley and clutch.

Should I try to find grade 8 bolts? Maybe if I spray some liquid wrench on the threads of the compressor it will come off easier?

Does anyone have access to VIDA so I can verify if they have a predetermined number of shims you should put in to get as close as you can on the first try?
 
You don't want the usual soft-grade stuff you find in the bulk bin. They need to stand up to the force of the pull. You'll have trouble finding grade 8 in long all-thread.

Liquid wrench won't do much because it's a press fit.

VIDA says nothing about the number of shims. That's for the mechanic (you) to measure and choose.
 
I think I recall the three threaded holes in the pulley being M5's. The center bolt is an M6.
This is correct (as usual). Install your clutch with 1 large shim & then measure. DO NOT use your pictured puller on the the new clutch. Use a free loaner from AutoZone or similar store. The clutch will come off with ease, don't lose any sleep over it. Adjust your shim pack as required & reinstall. Hopefully the first time is a charm.
 
You don't want to use ANY kind of jaw puller. Use the correct AC puller (free loaner at many auto part stores). LINK to proper kit. The key part is pictured below. You'll need some 30 - 40mm long 5mm bolts as the ones in the kit aren't the correct thread. Also look at how the clutch face is shaped. As I recall there was a trick to taking a good measurement with your feeler gauge. Don't push your gauge in too far perhaps? I recall there being a step down or ridge you'd contact.

Image
 
Looks like it would. The piece in the back left corner. You show as from Milwaukee. They have several AutoZones spread around. I used to live in Waukesha. :)
 
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