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Another Laser V70R saved

12K views 100 replies 26 participants last post by  _HighVoltage_  
#1 ·
Hi everyone. I haven't been active on here for a while, but I figured it's time to post my latest adventures. Some of you already know about this car, as we communicate regularly on other platforms. I'll try to update this thread regularly as more and more things keep breaking.

Yes, I bought a laser blue 1999 V70R with 123,000 miles back in June. It was a FB marketplace find, labeled just as a V70 and with very limited information. The car belonged to an elderly couple on a limited budget. They did their best keeping up with oil changes, brakes, and other "basic" things, but when the car burnt an exhaust valve in cylinder 1, they decided to throw in the towel.

That's where I came in. Arranged a quick deal before anyone else snatched it up and went to pick it up the next day. The car came with FULL records since 1999, but as I would later find out...not the best of records.
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Took the risk of driving it 100 miles home on just four cylinders (disconnected injector 1). It was rough but we made it.

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In addition to the burnt valve, the car also had a clunk in the front suspension (been there...), and a few other little faults. Over the following months, these things happened:

  • Had the head resurfaced and rebuild by the local Volvo dealer - just one new exhaust valve, but I insisted on changing all valve stem seals and sending the head to be resurfaced at a machine shop. New PCV, timing belt and water pump, new cam seals...Basically a redo of the whole top end.
  • After all of that work and $$$, the car came back but still had a nasty problem - intermittent lifter tick. After some research and discussion with folks, I decided to go ahead and have the sump o-rings changed. Voila. Problem fixed - no more lifter tick.
  • Changed the swaybar endlinks hoping it would be a simple and easy fix to the clunking. Nope. Leaking strut. Had the front suspension changed. Kept it all OEM.
  • Changed the torque mount and that also helped reduce vibration.
  • Rebuilt the rear hatch and installed a rear wing (painted it myself). Added roof rails.
  • Tried to bring the paint back as best I could - the car apparently sat outside for a while and as a result has bad water spots etched into the top of the clear. Ugh. A professional detailer quoted me $1000 to get it fixed. It will have to wait.
  • Tinted it because it looked like a fishbowl.
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- Updated the front - eggcrate and jewels. Installed a new fog-light and airdam. Apparently the old lady drove the car into a ditch at one point, destroying the airdam, fog-light, and making a small crack in the R bumper :/
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  • "Fixed" the SC901 - someone at some point had disconnected the Dolby cable from the back. Center speaker didn't work (of course), but I found an aftermarket replacement that works decently well.
  • Transmission...after a spirited drive in the mountains I smelled ATF. Checked the level and it was VERY high on the stick. The next morning, I took a large syringe and started pulling fluid from the dipstick. Took a full quart before getting the level right! The transmission had been overfilled about 20k miles ago by a shop (based on service records). Added a small bottle of Lubegard and the car shifts excellently now (well...as good as the AW42-50 would ;)

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Pretty happy with the car despite all the headaches and big repair bills. AWD system works fine (service records indicate that Volvo installed a brand new prop shaft back ihen the car only had 50k miles).

Two pending/worrying issues:
1) P0422...Yes, I've read pretty much all about it at this point, and it seems quite common (and yet mysterious) on these 99 cars. Service records indicate that the previous owner installed an aftermarket cat back in 2015 at 80k miles. OEM is NLA. However, from my own diagnosis, I'm under the suspicion the cat is actually fine. What would happen is, the CEL would light up 30-40 miles after filling up the car with gas all the way to the top of the tank. Once I clear the code, the CEL does not come back and all the monitors set (nothing pending). That is, until the next fill up when it repeats all over again. But, over the last month, 1000 miles, I have only been filling the car up to 16 gallons (not 18), and the CEL has not come back. So, somehow, I suspect it's an EVAP issue that somehow triggers a cat code. But filling up to 16 gallons avoids the issue altogether. Oh, the car is getting about 25-26MPG highway, so nothing to complain there. Power is great too, so no driveability issues.
2) Alternator/voltage regulator is most likely on its last legs. Every morning, the car starts with no issues but the battery light is ON. Checked voltage before starting - 12.6V. Voltage immediately after starting - 11.9V. Give it a couple of throttle blips to 1500rpm, and voltage jumps to 13.8V and stays there for the rest of the day. Checked the battery cables and they look okay. So, I suspect the voltage regulator is a bit slow to wake up. One day it will probably just stop. So I have to get this replaced ASAP.

Other plans for the car:
  • I have a set of Volans that need paint and tires - hopefully I will get that done in the Spring. The car came with Michelin tires with 8/32s so I don't want to just toss them out for no good reason.
  • Find a 00 dual exhaust
  • Find a 6CD changer - that part is easy; Finding the trunk floor panel for the CD changer, that is the difficult part
  • Strut brace - also NLA. Seems like OMP is the only decent option now?
  • MAYBE...if things stop breaking...a Hilton stage 1.

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Discussion starter · #11 ·
Wow, what a find. Where was it located ? I'm finding the P80 scene is weak here in the South. As for your P0422 code. I had this and fuel mixture code on my 00 R. I had no drive ability issues either. Ended up being a weak fuel pump. An Indy shop had the brilliant idea of taping a fuel gauge to the windshield and drove it around. Under boost the pressure dropped below acceptable levels. I replaced the pump and its been 1.5 yrs now with no CEL.
It was on the North Carolina-Georgia border. Originally an Atlanta car that spent a few winters in South Dakota.

Interesting about the fuel pump. I have no fueling issues at WOT. I'll keep an eye on it. I don't want to preventatively replace the fuel pump as I know it's a huge endeavor on this car.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Did you paint them yourself? If so, what type did you use?
I had a local paint shop mix some 932 paint for me in a rattle can. Scuffed them up with 400 grit, cleaned them up, and then did a few layers of paint. Some minor imperfections remain (from curb rash) but the paint hides them decently well. Can't do better for just $35.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
6CD changer install in trunk

Picked up an original CD changer from an 850R today with the bracket (and with the cover for the sedan - the one that looks like a suitcase). The car is already prewired for it, but I was missing the proper floor panel to make it fit perfectly. Well, I improvised. First, I removed the mounting brackets, then I removed the sunroof drain contraption and replaced it with just a rubber hose
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(Yes...I cleaned the area, but only thought about it after I took the picture)

After that, the changer fit pretty snug in there - I wedged it with a few plastic pieces, and it doesn't move at all.

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Finally, the original floor panel closes perfectly with the foam pushing down on the changer (but that can't hurt it)

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I've achieved peak-90s!
 
Discussion starter · #21 ·
Need some advice/expertise.

As I mentioned earlier, I believe I have some sort of an issue with the alternator. Every morning when I start the car, the battery light stays on. It remains on for 20 seconds or until I blip the throttle to about 2000rpm.
One day I brought the car to a part store and they did a test - voltage regulator failed. I brought it back a week later, this time - no faults in the charging system. The car drives fine, goes on long trips without any issues.

I used a volt meter and found out the following:
1) Prior to starting, battery voltage is at 12.6V (so battery is good)
2) Immediately after starting, voltage dips to 11.8V
3) After the light goes off/after I blip the throttle, the alternator wakes up and voltage goes up to 13.8-13.9V and stays there the whole day/drive cycle.

From what I've read, this seems to be a failing voltage regulator. Would others agree?

If I plan on replacing the whole alternator, is BOSCH AL0805X the correct one for a 1999 V70R? I know they are not the same as the ones in 93-98 cars.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Alternator ordered. Of course, in the two days since I ordered it, the battery light hasn't come on...but I'll still go ahead and replace it.

New issue: ever since I bought the car last summer, I could hear a faint whine in the interior - kind of like a desktop PC fan running at 3000rpm constantly. I thought it was coming from the dash, but today I finally tracked it down once I got under the car - it is coming from the fuel pump. Am I living on borrowed time? Are these pumps known to be somewhat noisy, or is this a sign that it will stop working anytime now?
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Ref back to this message, maybe the pump is the cause of the P0422 you were throwing?
Interesting! It's starting to make sense now. I guess I'll start with the fuel filter first, see if it's old/clogged and maybe that is causing the pump to run hard.

...wait...so if fuel pressure drops under boost, the engine runs lean...could that have been the cause of the burnt valve?
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Interesting posts about the Alternator. I had a nearly dead battery in my little Ranger and I thought the alternator was going bad too. Swapped in a new battery and the Ranger started up without some issues. I also have a whine which I think might be the fuel pump or a belt about to go. Seems like these are the things that go bad often.

Did you take a recording of the sounds?
Yes. I confirmed it was coming from the fuel pump - got under the car and I can clearly hear the whine under the gas tank. I'll go ahead with a filter change first in hopes that maybe it's a little clogged (it is original...) and maybe it's causing the pump to run harder.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Alternator and fuel filter replaced. So far so good. Sound didn't change - I can still hear the pump running. Oh well...let's see how long it lasts.

Meanwhile, I have two other inquiries.

1. Turbo pressure. When I first bought the car with the burnt valve, stepping on the throttle I could hear the turbo spool up very clearly. Louder than my S70 T5m. Ok cool...Then the whole rebuild was done, car drives great now, no CEL, no codes but the turbo is practically silent. No spool sound. I tested the performance - it accelerates from 0 to 60 in just over 7 seconds, so everything seems normal (I figured that if I had a boost leak or was running wastegate pressure, there is no way the car would be this fast...). And then, there is the whole "feel" of the car. It drives almost like a NA motor in the sense that I can't ever feel the boost actually hitting. This is very different from my T5m where it's nothing, nothing, nothing, TURBOOOOO. Is this normal? I figured it could be because of the auto transmission - in the time it takes to downshift to second or third, boost has already built, so I don't feel it in the same way I feel it in the T5m. Does that make sense?

2. I remember reading about this back in the volvospeed days. My 98 T5m has a "Euro" headlight relay, allow me to run low beams, high beams, AND fogs at the same time. On the 99R, it's either fogs or high beams. Can't have both on. What is the relay part number, and will it work on the 99 car?
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Not much going on lately. Still some minor annoyances. Despite the front suspension refresh 6months ago with Sachs struts, OEM spring seats, strut mounts, all new mounting hardware, and Meyle HD swaybar links, there is a new clunk from the pass side at low speeds and when turning left. Just a single clunk. I suppose it's possible the Meyle swaybar link could have failed prematurely. Will have to investigate further.

Replaced my lower intercooler hose with a good used one since the hose is NLA from Volvo, URO, or...anyone really. The only brand new solution would have been DO88, but I didn't want blue hoses. Anyways. Exact same part number on the hoses and yet this happened:
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The replacement hose was a good 1-2inches shorter, but it still fit fine.

This weekend, I brought the car to Cars & Coffee and brought the dog with me.
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I still haven't bought tires for the Volans, since the Michelins on these Solars are running great. Maybe I should just go for it and then put one solar as a spare in R, another in the S70, and the last two in my storage (lack of space...I can't keep storing extra wheels in there).
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Looks great! Love Laser - such a cool color. The doggo is cute too.
Interesting about those hoses. I’m almost positive Do88 offers a black and red option on top of the regular blue if the new used hose ends up to be not good.
I’d run the tires on the Solars almost to replacement depth, then put them to use as spares. If the tires on them are good, I’d hate to put them into early retirement
The Black DO88 hoses exist but they have to be shipped from Sweden. I didn't want to wait.

Tires on the Solars are at 7-8/32s...they might give me another 20k miles...so it might be another 2 years until it is time to put rubber on the Volans. Don't want to wait that long.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
I would hope the links didn't fail, but check if the nuts need to be tightened again. Has the pass side axle ever been replaced ?
Axles are still original at 128k miles. It's definitely a possibility. I jacked up the car this morning and checked for play in the wheel. Nothing. Everything felt tight with no play. I did not check the nuts on the links because I didn't take the wheel off.
 
Discussion starter · #41 ·
Update on the clunk: I suspect it's yet another episode in the weirdness saga. I believe it is actually coming from the passenger side hood hinge spring. I've noticed recently upon closing the hood, the spring would clank a couple of times. Then turning slowly in parking lots there is chassis flex as we all know and I do not have a strut brace yet, so it wouldn't surprise me if that is the source of the issue. Is there a way to lubricate the springs? Or do I need to look into finding a replacement spring?
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Clunk turned out to be badly installed strut with a loose cross nut at the top. My mechanic fixed it before anything catastrophic happened.

Finally bought tires for my set of Volans that had been sitting for about 3 years. Totally transformed the look of the car!

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But it's not all good news. I tried to get the car aligned with the new tires and it turned out passenger side inner tie rod is seized on the outer - no amount of heat or hammering could undo it. So next up - new inner and outer tie rods coming next week.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Took the wagon up the Blue Ridge Parkway. Drove great but used a lot more gas while not going as fast as the T5m. Going up hills with an extra 400-500lbs and the same power will do that, I guess. Also discovered I may have the dreaded issue with the check valve in the fuel pump. Will monitor the situation. For now, enjoy some pictures from the parkway.
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Discussion starter · #47 ·
Awesome pics! Out of curiosity, what symptoms are you experiencing related to the check valve?
Very intermittent. I can't replicate it 90% of the time. Here is usually what would happen: Drives great for 2 hours, I stop and turn the key off to go somewhere. If I return within 5 minutes, car starts without an issue. If I don't return for hours, car starts without an issue. BUT if I return in 10-15 minutes only, turn the key, and the car would just crank. Starts on the second try, sometimes stumbles until it settles the idle. No codes. Never fails to start on the second try. And like I said, this happens once in a blue moon. Haven't seen it happen at all this week.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Annoying series of events:
1. I painted the Volans last year when I didn't have tires for them. I didn't know better, so I just spray painted them with a can of 932 Anthracite mixed by my local paint shop. No clear. Ended up looking great though.
2. The other day, I decided to clean them because over a few month of spirited driving, they had accumulated some brake dust. I used Adam's Wheel and Tire cleaner, following the instructions...and the cleaner started to dissolve the paint, leaving streaks and stains. Crap. Probably happened due to the lack of clear coat.
3. Went to the paint shop and had them mix me a can of single stage 2k paint that matches exactly the 932 color. Went home, scuffed the wheels with 400 grit, and then sprayed 3 coats waiting 10 minutes between each. As I was doing it, I noticed a few drops of hardener leaking out of the bottom of the can...interesting.
4. Waited 3 days and even though the wheels look fantastic, they are still tacky. Went back to the paint shop, they checked the can and test sprayed it on a panel they had in the store. The next morning they called me to say that something is wrong with this can because it wouldn't dry on their test panel either. So now they are mixing me an extra can and said I should be okay to just do one more light coat on top of the existing still tacky finish, and that should be enough to catalyze it and finally get the paint to dry and eventually cure.

What an ordeal...I'll spray them this evening again, let's see what happens
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