[pony_trekker]

I have been using the manufacter-reccomended octane level (91 or better) since the get go but with premium gas in the US being a buck more a gallon in most place, I have been tempted to go 89 or 87.

Anyone do this?

Negatives?

 

[cometguy]

You can use the search option here at Swedespeed (and most any automobile forum) to look up questions before posting. Like this:

Search results for query: regular vs. premium gas

www.swedespeed.com

I'll just say that the point is that manufacturers design their ICEs for a certain octane of gasoline in order to operate at maximum power and maximum efficiency. I have found in my cars having their manufacturers recommend high-octane gas that I'll get noticeably worse mpg when I use lower octanes and also less power/acceleration when using lower octanes. "Penny wise, pound foolish", as they say; gas prices may be high, but high-octane gas generally remains about the same amount of money above low-octane gas when prices go way up (not always true, but I find it generally true), and if you can afford to buy a new Volvo, you can certainly afford the current gas prices. I did a calculation not long ago showing that my reduction in mpg when buying low-octane gas over high-octane gas ends up pretty much a wash (i.e., what you "save" in the cheaper gas, you lose in range/efficiency).

If saving gas money is paramount (for me, it's saving trips to gas stations), you should do as many do: buy a PHEV and really save gas money when driving locally, while still improving your long-distance mpg efficiency (i.e., T8 beats T6 always in terms of gas consumption -- using US drive-train nomenclature; in Europe there are T6 PHEVs, but not in the US).

 

[pony_trekker]

I did a tighter search but didn't find anything current or on point but using yours and seeing your comment, I am not inclined to cheap out.

I'm not going to add a plug in now, but next car just might.

 

[Ultrarunner511]

I have been using the manufacter-reccomended octane level (91 or better) since the get go but with premium gas in the US being a buck more a gallon in most place, I have been tempted to go 89 or 87.

Anyone do this?

Negatives?

I'd recommend buying a cheaper car before cheaping on gas.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Pioneer4x4]

I have been using the manufacter-reccomended octane level (91 or better) since the get go but with premium gas in the US being a buck more a gallon in most place, I have been tempted to go 89 or 87.

Anyone do this?

Negatives?

I have mentioned this before, If it is crazy difference in price, and options are 93/87 I will mix. Last fill up 2 weeks ago, I put in 5 gallons of 87, then filled with 93 (6.5 gallons or so). 93 was 40¢ more than 87 (Sams Club in PA) so I saved $2 and I timed how long after stopping pumping the 87 to starting the 93, it was right at 72 seconds. That is exactly $100 an hour, I figured my time was worth it.

 

[DFrantz]

Generally it's fine... like when you ask a woman what's wrong. You'll probably live, but it's not the best response to get.

While I've never seen it affect a warranty claim, it is in the warranty guide as required to maintain the warranty. I'm a car guy though, so I've always tuned my cars up to the need of premium if they didn't come that way anyhow. I've never seen it $1 more... but so what if it is... that's $15 a tank... maybe once a week? Probably less. Sure it's real money, but I can spend that much at lunch if I'm not careful.

 

[lamarguy]

These threads are always the best. "Only non-top tier 87 octane for my luxury vehicle."

 

[Pioneer4x4]

These threads are always the best. "Only non-top tier 87 octane for my luxury vehicle."

Yep, opinions are like...
And to me, first thing, make sure you follow the book, especially if you want to minimize any warranty hassles.
Second, top tier to me is a very good suggestion if not overpriced. I know which local brands have it, but since using Sams Club a lot more lately, I haven't looked into it as much. I assume that they don't have top tier as a source.
As for use in "luxury" vehicles, eh, makes zero difference, very often the same exact engine is used in a brands Luxury/Performance/Truck/Economy divisions at the same time.

 

[pony_trekker]

I'd recommend buying a cheaper car. . .

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

Thanks but that's not the plan.

 

[rfkuehn]

These threads are always the best. "Only non-top tier 87 octane for my luxury vehicle."

And to me, first thing, make sure you follow the book

Yeah I just don't get shaving gas cost for a high-investment vehicle. No shame in a Toyota, ours takes 87 and we beat the crap out of it.

We often drive by Costco and see gas lines out of the parking lot and extending into traffic lanes. Most with engines running, no doubt. WTF is wrong with people?

 

[Pioneer4x4]

Yeah I just don't get shaving gas cost for a high-investment vehicle. No shame in a Toyota, ours takes 87 and we beat ...
We often drive by Costco and see gas lines out of the parking lot and extending into traffic lanes. Most with engines running, no doubt. WTF is wrong with people?

Right, they should have T8s! It is weird pulling into a gas station, getting out after leaving the car on with A/C running. Then filling up, and leaving, all without the engine ever running the whole time.

 

[lamarguy]

Second, top tier to me is a very good suggestion if not overpriced. I know which local brands have it, but since using Sams Club a lot more lately, I haven't looked into it as much. I assume that they don't have top tier as a source.

Sams Club is non-top tier. I warned my dad but he ran it exclusively in his '16 Tacoma for ~50k miles and several of his injectors plugged throwing check engine codes. Payed $700 for injector replacement/service and now he pays a few cents more for Exxon gas.

"Play stupid games, win stupid prizes."

As for use in "luxury" vehicles, eh, makes zero difference, very often the same exact engine is used in a brands Luxury/Performance/Truck/Economy divisions at the same time.

Similar engine with significantly different tuning. Volvo tunes for max fuel efficiency at "low load" e.g., highway cruising when you only need ~20 hp to maintain speed.

Unfortunately, this leads to "low load pre-ignition" engine knock with lower octane fuel, partially plugged injectors, or poor quality engine oil. I'd encourage you to read about it.

Investigating Oil Composition, Direct Injection, & Low-Speed Knock

The discovery of low-speed knock events exclusive to direct injection led EFI University and Lake Speed, Jr. of Driven Racing Oil to examine the cause.

www.enginelabs.com

BIZOL - Innovation in motor oils LOW SPEED PRE-IGNITION – THE ENGINE KNOCK RETURNS

Most older drivers, as well as those involved in motor sports, are well familiar with the phenomenon of engine knocking. However, due to continuous improvements in engine design and on-board control equipment, the risk of knock has been effectively eliminated, therefore many of you may have...

www.bizol.com

 

[pony_trekker]

Generally it's fine... like when you ask a woman what's wrong. You'll probably live, but it's not the best response to get.

While I've never seen it affect a warranty claim, it is in the warranty guide as required to maintain the warranty. I'm a car guy though, so I've always tuned my cars up to the need of premium if they didn't come that way anyhow. I've never seen it $1 more... but so what if it is... that's $15 a tank... maybe once a week? Probably less. Sure it's real money, but I can spend that much at lunch if I'm not careful.

Yes today it was a buck a gallon more at nearly every place I passed by near me. All top tier. That's a big delta proportionately. I wonder if it's a demand issue.

That being said there are enough reports here of diminished performance and mileage, etc for me not to consider it.

I had it made before. The Sunoco around the corner from me, which was reasonable, even more so Sunoco credit card discount, switched out to some farkakte brand.