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The dealer may have recommended but Volvo does not have a body shop certification program. Very few Volvo dealers have their own collision repair. Certifying third party stuff is usually not something many OEM will do. The bulk of the OEMs leave collision repair to ICAR organization that insurance companies back for their certified direct bill participants.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
The dealer may have recommended but Volvo does not have a body shop certification program. Very few Volvo dealers have their own collision repair. Certifying third party stuff is usually not something many OEM will do. The bulk of the OEMs leave collision repair to ICAR organization that insurance companies back for their certified direct bill participants.
So does that mean that as soon as a body shop touches your car, Volvo washes their hands of it? Is there no way to repair a Volvo without destroying the Warranty?

I took it to a body shop hoping that it would be a "quick" touchup job. Turns out that there is TONS of rust underneath, and the panel is badly perforated. All the body shops I talked to recommended to replace both fenders. The body shop that took it apart noticed that the foam sound deadening material is likely the problem. It traps water and debris and the rust started from the inside. Super angry about this piss poor design. :angryfire::angryfire::angryfire:

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Clean it up (sand down to bare metal), degrease, mask off the area, use a zinc primer, a couple of days later wipe with rubbing alcohol, apply top coat and clear, and enjoy your car. It may not look perfect, but waaaay better than the rust in the pic above. All under $50
My 2 cents
Thinking this is my best option at this point. Is it difficult to remove the entire fender? Would be much easier to work on that way.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Where did you have your fenders replaced? I'm in West Bloomfield and may need to discuss this at the dealer.
You are likely asking @NWiatrak, because I haven't had them replaced yet. Volvo is trying to deny my claim, but I'm fighting them on it.

The damage is from the inside, so it is clear that this isn't an issue with a "bad paint job".
 
Exact Same Issue: 2010 XC60 Wheel Wells/Edges Rusting to holes - 12 Yr Warranty

Hello,

I have today made claim to Volvo under the 12 year corrosion warranty for this exact same issue. This is a single owner XC90 Volvo that has been meticulously maintained at the Volvo dealer which it was purchased. Per the attached pictures both front right and left have rusted through. Started about 10 months ago....now full on holes. This has been reported enough times to clearly have been some sort of defect in the painting/coating/galvanizing processes.

Robert

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You are likely asking @NWiatrak, because I haven't had them replaced yet. Volvo is trying to deny my claim, but I'm fighting them on it.

The damage is from the inside, so it is clear that this isn't an issue with a "bad paint job".
I am having this repaired now on my 2012 XC60. I didn't really notice it until I read this thread, and then yeah it was pretty clearly bubbling. The service rep originally wanted to say it's because of rock chips, which, actually for how I have at least one other spot where this IS a rock chip, perhaps that is the case. There's one above the windshield which has become bubbling rust, and of course to repair it properly would be removing the windshield, sunroof, rails, headliner, etc to repair the damage and repaint the whole thing. The hood has rock chips all day but they haven't cracked through the coatings on the panels and caused any rust.

I did not pull the wheel well covers to look. I figured it can't hurt to ask but it has been almost a year since I started asking and pushing on it, just with interactions with the dealer.

Once I get the car back I will try and get more details as to what they saw or how it looked to them.
 
I was just hunting down a leak on my 12 xc60 and noticed the water pooling in the soft material inside the front fenders (water is draining there from the windshield/moonroof). I'm fairly certain this will rust the fender from the inside.
As of now any small spots where the paint has chipped off I am religiously cleaning and using the volvo touch-up paint kit to prevent any spread.
 
Hello,

I have today made claim to Volvo under the 12 year corrosion warranty for this exact same issue. This is a single owner XC90 Volvo that has been meticulously maintained at the Volvo dealer which it was purchased. Per the attached pictures both front right and left have rusted through. Started about 10 months ago....now full on holes. This has been reported enough times to clearly have been some sort of defect in the painting/coating/galvanizing processes.

Robert

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Your images didn't post, but every time I have seen rust on the body of a Volvo it has been due to other damage, either current or previously repaired.

Edit- 10 months later and I'd like to revise my statement. I have seen a couple P3 XC60s with this come in lately.
 
I live in northern Illinois. Our 2013 Volvo XC60 was purchased new and never had an accident. The right fender is rusting like the one that started this post. My local body shop said it was from the inside out. My dealer said they would not touch the car since Volvo would not pay them to replace the fender and they said to ask Volvo corporate for a goodwill fix. Volvo corp said to work with the dealer. Great finger pointing and accountability. After owning 7 Volvos over many years, I'm done. I will replace the fender at my cost as I can't stand to see the rust on my 8 year old car. It will be sold before I see another bubble in the paint. Too bad Volvo dropped the ball with quality.
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I just made a claim about this to my dealer about my 2012 XC60. Rust/bubbling on both wheel wells in same place. On driver side there are entire pieces of metal missing, not just a simple perforation. Exact same place as OP and post above. The car definitely has not had body work done. Maybe it's not a design problem, but if not it's pretty odd that it seems to be happening at the exact same spot on multiple cars (and exact same spot on both sides of my car).

I've been waiting a couple weeks for the dealer to hear back from Volvo, I'll post here once I know the result.

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EDIT: Pic of driver side
 
This IS a design fault. Volvo has tabs on the inside of the fenders that hold the well liner against the fender lip. Problem is sand gets in there and stays there. The sand then goes below the fingers and grinds the hell out of the paint. Once that is done the rust begins from the inside out.
My suggestion is once a year or during tire rotation pull the liner and wash out back there.
Another thing I am trying out is the clear plastic liner that folks use to protect hoods. Small piece cut and place where the tab is. That test is ongoing on one side.
 
Ya its a design issue. I trimmed the big foam liner where is sits against lip so water/dirt can wash down and out instead of sit there. I also put 3m film around lip, inside and out. Pulled back liners this spring after winter, and nice and clean in there. Dealer I bought fenders from said they do lots. I didnt bother to try to get them covered 2013 with 200k klms on it.
 
I live in northern Illinois. Our 2013 Volvo XC60 was purchased new and never had an accident. The right fender is rusting like the one that started this post. My local body shop said it was from the inside out. My dealer said they would not touch the car since Volvo would not pay them to replace the fender and they said to ask Volvo corporate for a goodwill fix. Volvo corp said to work with the dealer. Great finger pointing and accountability. After owning 7 Volvos over many years, I'm done. I will replace the fender at my cost as I can't stand to see the rust on my 8 year old car. It will be sold before I see another bubble in the paint. Too bad Volvo dropped the ball with quality.
I feel your pain, and certainly was not happy with the $$$$ , but I will stick with Volvo....ALL manu. have issues. I still find these a very solid great, long lasting vehicle. The brine crap they use these days is verrrrry hard on metal.
 
This IS a design fault. Volvo has tabs on the inside of the fenders that hold the well liner against the fender lip. Problem is sand gets in there and stays there. The sand then goes below the fingers and grinds the hell out of the paint. Once that is done the rust begins from the inside out.
My suggestion is once a year or during tire rotation pull the liner and wash out back there.
Another thing I am trying out is the clear plastic liner that folks use to protect hoods. Small piece cut and place where the tab is. That test is ongoing on one side.
Thank you. Great suggestion. Wish I started doing that 7 years ago when the car was 1 year old. I will do it now on my one good fender. The other one is a lost cause with only 72,000 miles on the 2013 XC.
 
Thanks for the foam trim suggestion. Did you trim a vertical part by the area we are all getting rust or in horizontal at the bottom inside of the fender so water can get out? Or both? I will doing this to my one good fender this month.
 
Thanks for the foam trim suggestion. Did you trim a vertical part by the area we are all getting rust or in horizontal at the bottom inside of the fender so water can get out? Or both? I will doing this to my one good fender this month.
I cut a triangle shape piece out from top to bottom where it sits against the outer lip
 
Hello All, I want to provide some new info after Volvo inspected the rust on my 2013 fenders (73,000 miles). They found tree leaves and helicopter seeds all wet and moist packed down at the bottom of the fenders where the rust is happening to everyone. My wife's Volvo get parked in the garage and it is my SUV that is outside so this is odd. I looked at the top of the Xc60 fenders with the hood open and see that there is a large area for debris to go down. I always vacuum the hinge area but never thought to look down the open fender but a vacuum tool would not fit. Waiting to see if Volvo will honor their 12 year corrosion warranty and replace both fenders. If they do, I will try to get some mesh material over the top fender opening and / or pull the fender liners out at each oil chain / tire rotation. At least Volvo is not blaming rock chips for the rust. Openings at the top of XC60 fenders is not ideal on a premium car. My daughter's S60s had a great system for filtering tree stuff that comes off the windshield. I'll let everyone know later if Volvo honors their 12 year corrosion warranty or blows off a long term customer. Greg
 
Yes - this is a BIG problem. I live in a rust belt - Toronto - we salt viciously ;-) When I bought my 2010 it had minor wheel well rust. Yes - the foam baffles for these years are there to stop road noise from going from the tires into the cabin. They also soak up a LOT of water once they are compromised. Add to that the empty channel that leaves and bugs and lawn clippings etc can fall into, and they all collect behind that vertical baffle. The combination of standing/constant water behind the metal wheel wells and also the wet/mushy organics are the issue. It rusts form the inside out - which is why bodies that have had no accidents still rust through. It is a stupidly poor design choice. Once a year (after autumn) one should take the front wheels off, remove the fender shield, then the foam baffle as well as any leaves and debris. If the foam insert is heavy with water or feels wet, it is time to replace them with uncompromised dry ones (they were surprisingly/relatively inexpensive - I forget how much but reasonable). BTW I would get a new foam set regardless as there is definitely an issue if not done previously. I ordered a new set of after market fenders off eBay - $200 USD - primed but not painted, and then a local shop rustproofed the inside fender and painted to match the body colour (white) for $500 all-in, including installation. It's not something I wanted to do when I bought it, but necessary as it rusts fast in that area and would look jimmy if I didn't. Just sanding and filling would only lead to future rust flare-ups, and you are only buying six months at a time/maybe a year. One option I will be exploring is stuffing large-hole foam filter material you can get from pond supply stores or aquariums - they use them to put over pond filters to filter debris so the pump is not damaged. The holes are big enough to allow water pass through but also large enough to stop leaves and bugs etc while allowing fresh air through. Maybe I'll post a note during good weather on youtube to show you ;-)

EDIT: as for trimming or cutting - DO NOT. There is a fine/thin seal over the entire foam, that once compromised lets water soak into it just like a dish sponge. You are asking for trouble - believe me I researched this for weeks ;-)
 
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