Re: 2004.5 (2nd gen) S40 T5 - Vacuum pump (robcov)

http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=106487 I am currently having the same problem. The pump starts as soon as I put the key in. You don't even have to turn the key. And it runs for over a minute after you remove the key. This started about 1500 miles after getting the oil filer houseing replaced under warranty right at 50k for the notorious squeeling noise. I have been looking for a loose hose ect. If it's a vacume leak why would the pump turn on before you even start the car?

 

Re: 2004.5 (Gregd)

I'm wondering if something was damaged when the car was having the PCV issue, because there was definitely a vacuum problem there -- with the oil trap issue, the engine tries to suck in lots of air when running because the oil trap doesn't allow proper ventilation. I'm not sure if the vacuum is connected, but given the vacuum pressure that was built up in the engine when the bad oil trap was in there, maybe the vacuum pump and/or a hose was damaged?

 

The pump is turned on and off by a pressure sensor mounted near the brake booster. If you look at the booster, towards the left side of it, there is a brown sensor coming out of the vacuum hose that supplies the booster. Check to make sure its plugged in tightly, and that the sensor hasnt seperated. If it has, there will probably be a spring visibly hanging out of it. This is common on s40's. There is an up dated part available from Volvo to replace it. Its a very easy do it yourself job.

If the pump has been running continuously for a long period of time, check the rubber mounts around the pump. If they have melted from the excess heat created from constant running, you need to replace the pump as well.

 

Re: (Turb04S60)

Thanks, that makes sense. Where is the brake booster located?

 

Re: 2004.5 (2nd gen) S40 T5 - Vacuum pump (robcov)

I am having trouble finding this. I am guessing it's behind the plastic covering the brake master cylinder. Greg

 

Re: 2004.5 (Gregd)

Same here -- it makes sense that it would be a faulty sensor though. I am trying to get behind the plastic covering near the brake fluid reservoir to see if it is back there. There is a screw in the center of the plastic cover, but the opposite end is visible (not the head of the screw), so I wonder if this needs to come off from behind the dash? That would be a pain if so... I haven't had luck finding any photos or posts from anyone that has done the procedure yet. I'll take another look and let you know if I can get in there. Have you gotten that plastic cover off?

Rob

 

Re: 2004.5 (2nd gen) S40 T5 - Vacuum pump (robcov)

Still listening to the non stop weeeee of the vacuum pump. I had my car in this week for the glorfied oil change at 52.5k miles. Told the dealer that the vacuum pump keeps running all the time. They said it was louder than it should be and it's $350 including labor to replace. If I was confident that was the problem I would have said go ahead and order. From what I can tell looking at VADIS the pump insn't the problem. I am getting a vacuum reading of -85kpa. The pump is putting out -85kpa (-25 psi) and never shuts off. The documentaion says the electric pump should turn on at -45 and then off and anything above -60. The vadis documentaion says replace the control valve. Has anyone on here done this? I can't even get one single clip on the plastic covering it off. Thinking about ordering the part and drilling the stupid clips out and replaceing them. Or calling another dealer to see what they want to fix. If anyone has been through this and I am out in left field please chime in. Thanks Greg

 

Re: 2004.5 (Gregd)

I agree with the dealer that when the pump starts "screaming" or making excess noise that it should be replaced. But there should be a reason as to why it is staying on longer than it should. I would recommend having the source of the pump failure diagnosed.

Unfortunately with an oil change they will note what they find but unless you pay for diag. they wont look into it much further than telling you its bad. Its not uncommon to have pump failures due to faulty pressure sensors. But none the less volvo is good about storing fault codes related to the symptoms your experiencing.

 

Re: 2004.5 (ForceFed Motorsports)

My check engine light came on this week, and the pump stopped running after the car is shut off. I'm guessing it burnt out.

 

Re: 2004.5 (robcov)

Yep, Your pump is dead, has locked-up and blown the fuse, and the fuse for the pump ALSO runs the emission system's O2 sensor and that's what set Your "Check ENGINE Light".

I was told by at least two different dealer's service dept's that My noisy vac. pump was "Normal" until it "Died" 1500 miles before My warranty expired two yrs ago. The new pump was also "Noisy" until about 6 months ago...now it's working quietly and normally.

 

Re: 2004.5 (POWERSTROKE)

Powerstroke, you hit it right on the head - I took the car into the dealer to run a diagnostic check (since my OBDII-CAN DTC reader isn't supported by the vehicle..) and they said what you wrote.. The engine light is on because a fuse has blown that is on the same circuit as the O2 sensors.. $680 to "replace the pump, switch, and a hose". My question (which they haven't told me the answer to, so I took the vehicle back without doing this service yet) is where is the switch? Is it part of the vacuum pump? If so, it seems like a pretty basic DIY job to just get a new pump... What do you think?

Also, does anyone know where this fuse is located?

 

Re: 2004.5 (robcov)

Nice glad you got it figured out, im not sure why volvo combines circuits like that. Related items or not still seems stupid. As far as finding the fuse it should be listed in your service manual and easy to find. More than likely either in the engine bay fuse box or under the passenger side of the dash.

 

Re: 2004.5 (robcov)

WOW, @ $680 I'm glad Mine was replaced @ 48,500 miles under warranty. If You follow the wire leads from the pump towards the firewall I think the wires end at the pressure switch. The fuse is in the under hood fuse box.

With just a couple wire connectors, couple hoses, and I think two nuts & washers it's definitely in the "DIY" catagory. I'd argue with them about the prices on the parts. Try to get them for Wholesale plus tax. I can see Volvo charging $400 or more for just the parts. You might try just replacing the fuse to see if that gets Your pump operational again. If the new fuse blows instantly then Your pump is bad.

Whatever caused My pump to fail, defective pressure switch probably, Dealer didn't replace that because the new pump ran endlessly for months after it was installed also. For whatever reason it started operating "normally" as it did when the car was new last spring. It was just over two years ago now My pump failed.

 

Re: 2004.5 (2nd gen) S40 T5 - Vacuum pump (robcov)

Still listening to my pump run continously. The control valve has to be near the Brake master cyl. Removing all the plastic has to be why the repair is so high. Looks like the battery box has to be removed and the plastic cowl around the wipers loosened before you can even start to remove the back plastic. Wouldn't be surprised if the dealer wants 3 hours labor. Replaceing the pump should take a few minutes. This is the first car I have owned that has this feature that lets you have power brakes when the car stalls. Do you feel unsafe driving it without this pump funtioning? Greg

 

Re: 2004.5 (Gregd)

Thanks, it seems to be a pretty common problem. Yes, I will try the fuse and see if that does it. I'm thinking of just unplugging the pump in the meantime if it keeps blowing fuses before i have a chance to replace the thing. I don't feel unsafe without the pump functioning though - just need more pressure on the pedal or use the e-brake to slow down if the car mysteriously shuts off. The way this thing has been going I guess thats not out the scope of possibilities either..........

Dealer wants $260 for the part, so it must be a lot of labor for them to pull that plastic cowling off to get to the firewall... Insane.

 

Re: 2004.5 (robcov)

Update: I replaced the fuse (20 amp) - which is on the O2 sensor and vacuum pump circuit. It's slot 33 on the under the hood fuse box. The engine light was still on, but I drove the car a bit. Got home, checked the fuse and it had blown again. So, I replaced the fuse again, but this time I unplugged the vacuum pump. Drove around and the fuse is fine - check engine light was still on though. I disconnected the car battery to reset the ECU DTCs, and the CEL (check engine light) went off. I've put about 30 miles on it and the light has remained off. I'm ordering a pump online and will replace it, but for now the car is fine without the pump - for some reason that is the cause of the blown fuses.

Thanks all for your help. I'll keep you posted once I replace the pump as well. The dealer said something about a switch, but I can't find it, so hopefully the pump change does it.

 

Update: I replaced the fuse (20 amp) - which is on the O2 sensor and vacuum pump circuit. It's slot 33 on the under the hood fuse box. The engine light was still on, but I drove the car a bit. Got home, checked the fuse and it had blown again. So, I replaced the fuse again, but this time I unplugged the vacuum pump. Drove around and the fuse is fine - check engine light was still on though. I disconnected the car battery to reset the ECU DTCs, and the CEL (check engine light) went off. I've put about 30 miles on it and the light has remained off. I'm ordering a pump online and will replace it, but for now the car is fine without the pump - for some reason that is the cause of the blown fuses.

Thanks all for your help. I'll keep you posted once I replace the pump as well. The dealer said something about a switch, but I can't find it, so hopefully the pump change does it.

Speaking from experience, the main cause is a bad switch if u do the pump do the switch, they get stuck open and run the pump continuously til it blows the pump or the fuse. Main purpose of the pump is to provide vacuum to ur brakes @ low engine speeds. If u notices when u first start ur car and put it into gear and let off the brakes and reapply them they seem to slip? It's because of the low vacuum and ur pump not sucking the brake booster down yet. Here's a pic of the valve.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Re: 2004.5 (robcov)

Fuses are based off of amperage draw. Too many amps on a circuit can actually cause the wires to smoke and cause a fire let alone damage to the CEM which a LOT of volvos circuits run threw. Thus if the motor has an internal fault which requires excessive amperage draw it will blow the fuse as a safety rather than causing damage to the circuitry.

Sounds like you got the problem nailed though so hopefully the pump will get in soon and installed and you should be good to go http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

 

Re: 2004.5 (2nd gen) S40 T5 - Vacuum pump (robcov)

What is the PVC issues? I too have noticed my vacuum pump running. have you found the problem? Aslo what is up with the oil sump?

 

Re: 2004.5 (scotth)

The S40 does not have a PCV valve, instead there is whats called an oil trap (or I've also heard it referred to as an oil separator or oil sump). When a part of this oil trap breaks internally, the engine makes a strange howling noise and it throws engine vacuum. Check out this thread for mor info on that issue:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=82252

The vacuum pump issue is something different. I thought (and still think) it may have been somewhat related to me having the above oil trap issue because of the close timing of both issues popping up. I have found the issue with the vacuum pump (thanks to other posts on the forum). My vacuum pump had been running constantly for a few weeks, then one day the engine light came on and the pump noise went away. Aparently the pump has busted, and is causing the circuit to short. This causes the fuse to blow, which in turn kicked in the engine light because of other sensors that are on the circuit could not be read. Changing the fuse worked for a few minutes - but the fuse blew again. I ended up disconnecting the vacuum pump all together and replacing the fuse again. I reset the engine light, and it hasn't come back on since. The car has been working normally for a month now. I've ordered a new pump to replace the old one.

If you notice your engine light come on and the pump sound goes away, check the "Vacuum / O2 Sensor" fuse in the fusebox next to the battery under the hood. If that fuse is burnt out, your vacuum pump is shoring out the circuit and needs to be replaced (or atleast disconnected to stop the circuit from shorting). How long have you noticed the pump running? Mine was running for about 2 or 3 weeks before burning out and causing the fuse to blow.

 

I don't have a CEL, or a blown fuse that I know of, but I did notice the pump running ALOT many, many miles ago and have been complaining about 'mushy' brakes for about 2 years now. I say mushy by our cars standard, not compared to my brothers hyundai. Could a failed pump be causing slightly mushier brakes? Is there an easy test to see if the pump is still working?

 

Re: (Dawn Patrol)

The pump should only kick in when the engine isn't providing enough vacuum to the brake system, so it shouldnt affect braking under normal conditions. It is an auxiliary system. I'm not sure if there is a way to see if the pump is still working. The pump shouldn't run when the car is turned off - that is what how my bad pump started out before burning out.

 

Re: (Dawn Patrol)

Have you had any brake services in the last while? Possibly air in the brake line system that needs bled or have a brake flush per your service intervals?

 

I'm not sure how air would get in there. But I have followed ALL factory service intervals except the stupid cabin air filter, out of spite because it's a bitch to get to.

 

Re: (Dawn Patrol)

Alright just curious, common when people have a mushy pedal.

 

SO my vacuum pump runs constantly, I have a P0172 code which will not go away, and I seem to have alot of lifter noises. Is this all related to the oil filter housing problem?