Thanks for your reply. This message was sent yesterday but bounced back as refused by the email system. So resending. I will phone you if this doesn't get through.
I learned that if we reach agreement for me to buy the car from you, I can greatly reduce cost of shipping it to California by driving it in person into a nearby U.S. city (Buffalo NY?) and initiating shipment from there.
So I may arrange to visit Toronto very soon, if I can first please confirm a few things.
• The front end looks great in the photos. Under the hood has the front end been completely repaired from the accident? Any missing or damaged pieces or evidence of the damage?
• Are you aware of any unresolved maintenance/repair issues on the car overall?
• Would you allow me to get the car mechanically inspected locally in Toronto within one day at my expense before we close the deal?
Many thanks for your communications. I look forward to next steps.
Best wishes
Steve
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That would probably be your best bet. Even though there's an expense involved, you get to see the car in person, see how it performs, see how it's reviewed by a mechanic, and likely save a bundle by having it transported from Buffalo. Here are my responses to your questions. I will be as forthright as possible.
1)
The front end looks wonderful in the pictures (the whole car looks wonderful in the pictures) because it literally just left a $175 complete detailing job. Please don't be disappointed if you were to view it now. Granted, I do wash it before storing under the car cover, but the spotless engine bay, and mirror-like shine on the body would return once detailed again. About the hood - it was a treasure hunt for it. In order to rebuild the front clip, I purchased a complete front clip from a scrap yard, as well as a tonne of other spare parts (these parts by the way are stored in the trunk. If purchased, you get these too). The hood was rough shape; surface rust, some pitting, but came out nice one detailed. But it was a $600 paint job - meaning it's not the best quality. Perhaps a refinishing of the hood is required. As for under the hood, from the engine block forward, it was all replaced with curated parts through eBay, a few local stores, and the aforementioned front clip. There are 2 "wonky" things with the front end; 1) The thin filler strip that runs under the headlights and grille was refurbished to the best abilities of the body shop it was brought to. An OEM replacement was quoted at $235, and coming from Sweden, at a minimum 8-10 week lead time. I opted to have this one bent back into shape, filled in, straightened and painted for $80. Next, the only rather glaring evidence of an impact is located in front of the air filter box. There's a flat piece of steel that runs behind the driver's headlight that I had to use a hammer and punch to persuade it back into a respectable shape. My only other option was to cut and weld, which I have no experience in doing. However, the finished result doesn't look that bad considering it took maybe 60 minutes of shaping with various tools. Plus, when the hood is down, it's completely covered. Like I say in the ad, the rad, condenser, shroud, grille, headlights, bumper, air filter box, tiny trim pieces were all curated and replaced.
2)
a) The car will need a rear-main seal. It sweats, and leaves flap-jack sized spots on my driveway.
b) As stated above, hood could use a refinishing, as does the trunk lid if you want it looking mint.
c) Unless they're broken (I highly doubt it), but the buttons to fold the driver and passenger seats forward to access the back seats are really hard to press - so much so that the only seat that goes forward is the passenger seat. My thumb isn't strong enough to push the button on the driver's seat.
d) The gas gauge will intermittently read empty when first turned on, when I know full-well there's gas in the tank. I literally slap the side of the dash, and it reads again. Don't ask me why - it is what it is, and probably not worth investigating
e) Passenger side window goes down with both it's own switch, and switch on the driver's door, but only goes up with it's own switch. The window-up direction on the driver's door doesn't work
f) Passenger side footwell courtesy light lens snap-in tabs busted off, so it just hangs in place
g) Headlights could be professionally aimed. I did my best up against my garage door
3)
Yes of course you can have the car mechanically cleared before closing the deal. I know you may think I'm bias, but my mechanic I bring my cars to is upfront and honest.
In response to the rest of your message, driving the car to Buffalo would indeed cost less than having it shipped across, however when it comes to documents at the border, fees, registration, plates, insurance etc. etc., that is way over my head, and needs to be taken care of by you. I'd offer to drive the car to Niagara Falls or Fort Erie to get you as close to the border as possible without crossing it. We can discuss these details as it becomes more serious. If you want to give me a call at any point, let me know. My wife's phone has long distance to the US on her plan.
Thank you.
