Hi Jimbo

Your in the right place, lots of guys here with lots of experience with these cars.

Agree the headlamps are hedious, needs some 7" H4's in there. I just looked at the Hella's and they seem very expensive right now, but Speedway seems to have a deal.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Motors-H4-Headlight-7-Inch-Round-w-Pigtail-Kit,437736.html

Also you may need to change the steering wheel. Anything smaller than stock makes parking an Arm Workout.

 

I decided to go with regular headlights. The look a million times better than what it had.

 

Steering wheel is on the list. A horn would be nice to have.

I will look into those headlights too.

 

looks great ! all your changes sound like major improvements
is that a major vacuum leak at the fitting at the bottom of the intake ??? or maybe you've been working on it..
but if not, that could make the idle wacky, if it would even run

also, I've found when a carburetor sits for a while, the first place to get clogged up with dirty fuel is the tiny passages in the idle circuit jets.
I usually start with a full teardown and carb cleaning in an ultrasonic machine with heat

 

Well the shop stuck a muffler and a tailpipe on the car, but I am not very happy with it. I asked for a quiet stock style muffler and he gave me a performance turbo muffler with 2.25" diameter pipe. Shop is now telling me that a stock style muffler doesn't fit!?

Where is the factory muffler location and tailpipe routing?

 

The engine does appear to be previously fuel injected because you can see that plugs have been inserted into the head where the injectors were fitted. If the engine is a 1971 it will be a B20E with a 10.5:1 CR and definitely needs 92 octane fuel. However, I did not think that fuel injection was an option on the 145 in 1971. The 'tell' would be the badge on the front fender. If it says 145S then it was carb (twin SU or stromberg) equipped. A hypothetical fuel injected car would have 145E (E for einspritzen). That leaves the engine as a transplant as you suggest and it could be a 1971 B20E with 10.5:1 CR or the later B20F with 8.5:1 CR. Theoretically the B20F can live with lower octane fuel; but, the very deep quench band on the B20F reduces the quench effect making the engine more prone to detonation than modern engines so net effect is that it probably still needs something better than 87 octane fuel.

Your car has a 4:1 header which is non stock which means that there will be some fabrication to match up it up to a 'stock' exhaust system. This is the exhaust system as fitted to the B20E engine cars

It is slightly larger diameter piping and has a resonator and fits the 2, 4 and 5 door versions. Still available; but, on back order because they do limited production runs
Exhaust system 140GL/E 70-73 | Exhaust system 140 GL/GLE 1970-7

These are the exhaust systems for the non injected cars
Exhaust system 140 1967-73 B18/B20 A/B/D | VP Autoparts

Give VP Auto a call to find out what the difference is.

What might work is this which is a 1/2 kit meant for use with a 4:1 header. Will still probably require some modification to match up to the header. However, the mufflers look kind of small so it may be just as noisy as what you have
Exhaust system 140 2,5sport half kit | |
Your tail pipe is exiting in the correct location in the last photo.

Odd combination of switches on the left hand side of the dash cluster. Normally there would be Windshield wiper, choke (if carb equipped), headlights and heated rear window switch below those three. As you say, clearly someone's project car.

My friend had a 1970 145 and it did have the factory supplied optional roof rack and it was mounted through the roof with screws and the 6 pads for the screw mounted pedestals are in approximately the same location as in your photo, so yes, it might have been a factory supplied rack.

I like wagons. I had a 745 turbo for 25+ years and it was my wife's favorite car. B230FT had lots of zoom compared to the early '80s Toyota Corolla she had before we got married. The Volvo dealer up and left town so now I have a 2021 A4 Allroad which has a lot more zoom, gets better fuel consumption and is much quieter; but, can't carry anywhere as much stuff as the 745 and there is generally not a hope in hell of me fixing anything complicated on the car because I lack access to the Odis diagnostic system. Also, Audi has an infatuation with TTY fasteners all over the car (not just head bolts) which is an additional expense when it comes time to do repairs. The Audi service manual that I have is multiple thousands of pages long. I did OK with the Haynes service manual for the 745 which was decidedly less than 1000 pages long.

 

It is a B18 block, with a B20 fuel-injection head? Is there a way to identify the head without taking the valve cover off?

 

I love almost everything about this car. Keep up the good work!

 

This may help

 

On the top of the intake manifold right at the inlet the manifold has a weird barbed port that is blocked off. The B20E versions definitely do not have that port so I am guessing the manifold is a B20F manifold and from the last generation of the D jet on the B20. However, since the engine is already a mixed bag I would not be 100% certain that the manifold matches the head. The definitive identifier on the head would be the flats versus no flats craig300 has posted.

If it has flats indicating that it is an F head that doesn't mean that it is still a 'F spec' head. It could have been machined to increase the compression ratio. Certain year F heads were actually desirable because they had more metal on the short side radius of the exhaust port which would be of value if you were porting the engine. Not uncommon to turn an F head into an E spec head.

B20 head on a B18 block raises interesting questions about what is going on in the block. Some discussion about B20 heads on B18 blocks here
(47) B18 with B20 Fuel Injected Head?? | SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum

What is going on down below will matter in terms of tuning. If it retains a B18 bore the combustion chamber in the head is oversized for the bore so you have lost some of the quench zone which will increase the probability that this is going to be a pinger that wants high octane fuel or needs to be run with really retarded ignition. I predict at some point head removal to find out 'what ya got' may be in order.

 

It looks like there is no flat spot over the exhaust ports. So an E head?

 

Thank you for all the information. This is very helpful.

 

Back from the exhaust shop and I am much happier with the sound of a quieter muffler.

I also asked him to turn the tip down instead of straight out. I think it looks better and it is directed away from the rubber bumper.

 

Yep, an E head. I have seen 1800E s with and without that odd port at the front of the intake manifold. Perhaps its a California emission thing since my friend's 1970 1800E does not have it.

 

I am having some trouble finding a wiring diagram for this car. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

142 / 144 wiring diagram which is pretty much the same as the 145 except for the tail gate windshield washer mechanism.
SW-EM Wiring Diagram and Related Compilation

If you really need the wiper mechanism wiring diagram I have a 1971 service manual with the 145 WD; but, you might be waiting for a while before I got time to scan it.

 

well you can still get these for the bumper

 

I splurged and bought a set of hilites for one of my first cars and someone stole them. I even had the nice black soft covers.

 

Would later model Volvo factory wheels like these fit on my 71?

 

Not sure if 700 series would but Virgos would look boss and are a direct fit. See if you can find a set cheaper and source your own tires.
Pardon Our Interruption...

 

I think I will go with Virgos. Would 195/70R15 fit? Or is 195/65R15 better?

Here is what they look like mocked up in Photoshop:

 

If you are still looking, I have a nice set of Borbet 5 spoke pressure cast alloys from my 745 turbo. I used them for summer tires so they are in nice condition. Same bolt pattern as the 140. I think the offset is 25 mm for what I think is a 6" rim. The 140 have a 25 mm offset for the 5" rim or 32 mm offset for the 5.5 " rim. They are still fitted with 195/65HR15 tires and I could test fit on my 140 (if it ever stops raining here).

I never tried them on my 140 because the 149 came equipped with the relatively rare original ATS 5 spoke alloys (not the reproductions).

 

These? They're hot too.

If you are still looking, I have a nice set of Borbet 5 spoke pressure cast alloys from my 745 turbo. I used them for summer tires so they are in nice condition. Same bolt pattern as the 140. I think the offset is 25 mm for what I think is a 6" rim. The 140 have a 25 mm offset for the 5" rim or 32 mm offset for the 5.5 " rim. They are still fitted with 195/65HR15 tires and I could test fit on my 140 (if it ever stops raining here).

I never tried them on my 140 because the 149 came equipped with the relatively rare original ATS 5 spoke alloys (not the reproductions).

 

Those be the ones. That one is looking pretty pristine.

 

Haynes manual showed up. This will help.

The interior lights work again. The fuse was blown. The door switches do not work, but I found a bare wire near the driver side that might be the cause. I taped it up for now until I can get to the door switch. At least I can see inside the car at night.

The wiring under the dash is a mess.

I started working on a center console.

 

Got this sweet vintage Volvo keychain on eBay.

 

And I found these barely used Continental tires on Craigslist for super cheap. They are 195/65R15.

 

I made a cup holder yesterday.

 

The previous owner had no antifreeze in the cooling system of this car! At least it was clean. I drained it and put the correct coolant into the system.

 

I replaced the small steering wheel today with a 15" wheel. It looks better and it will be easier to park too.

 

Large steering wheel - Volvo's power steering solution for the 140 series.

 

I am a little disappointed in the Virgo wheels I ordered. I got them from different vendors and they are very different colors. I will have to rattle can them, which is a shame because they are very nice powdercoated wheels.