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06 XC90 V8 Rear Main Seal replacement

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16K views 29 replies 13 participants last post by  RedGeminiPA  
#1 ·
Hey guys,

I've searched the forum and came up empty. Just looking at how involved replacing the rear main crank seal is and if can be performed in a weekend. My skills are intermediate. Most difficult on a Volvo so far has been PCV on a XC70 2.5 but been turning wrenches on my own cars (VWs/Audis) for 25 years. As a hobby but mostly due to my OCD, and I truly enjoy it, probably wouldn't be the case if I did it for a living.

So on a scale of 1-10? rear main seal?

Many thanks
 
#3 ·
Are you sure it's not the power steering pump?
Wasn't diagnosed by me, by Suters in Aurora, Ontario, a Volvo indy shop. I believe from the maintenance records the PS pump was replaced last year. There is always the chance that it could have been misdiagnosed, which to be honest I would not mind. Will be speaking with the mechanic who worked on the car on Monday. Expecting the worst, but hoping for the best.
 
#4 ·
#6 ·
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I find it highly unlikely it's the rear main seal but it's got 300K kms, so like 190K miles. Been serviced religiously but anything's possible. I'm going to get to the bottom of this and hopefully it's only VC gaskets. I'll update when I get better acquainted.
 
#9 ·
I would put money on it's the power steering pump. I bought my 07 last year and the indy Volvo shop I took it to indicated it had a very minor weep in the RMS. I still bought it as it was dirt cheap. I got underneath and checked and was pretty satisfied that it was the PS pump as the colour and texture of the oil was too dark and thin for engine oil. Turns out not long after I bought it the PS failed. Well it didn't fail but it was on it;s way out for sure. The colour of the fluid in the res was just awful and I don't reckon it had been changed in a long long time.

People seem to forget that this is a big heavy car and with the v8 big wide tyres. Current power steering has got people into bad habits of turning the steering wheel whilst the car is not moving. Thus putting huge loads on the PS pumps and steering component and suspension bushes in general. Then they wonder why their front end gets shagged out so quickly. Well did you maneuver around using the steering wheel like a fork lift driver? :)
 
#12 ·
I agree with others that you should eliminate the PS pump and valve covers first. I had what looked like an RMS leak (starting around 120k miles), but after replacing both the pump and the gaskets (in one fell swoop) my driveway hasn't seen a drop.
 
#13 ·
I have a leaking rear main seal on my v8. It,s been leaking for over two years now with tiny droplets at the engine/transmission connection. Not severe enough to take action but one day it will come. Car has well over 300,000km on the odo.

I don't understand any confusion with powersteering, as PS is at the other side of the engine.
 
#15 ·
maintenance on T6 engine while dropped

From an XC90 newbie: once you have got your T6 engine out of your XC90 (2003) to rebuild your transmission, what maintenance should you do on the engine while its sitting on your driveway? Engine running fine (83K miles, no codes) before we dropped it, although we found the engine coolant level was pretty low. Based on VADIS routine maintenance plan, I'm considering:
- timing belt/water pump/tensioner kit
- accessory drive belt/tensioner/idler pulley kit
- spark plugs + boots (+ cylinder leakdown test due to low coolant level)
- fuel/air/oil filters
- new transmission oil cooler
- new thermostat (+ pressure test radiator)
- new engine/transmission mounts (as needed)
- anything else detailed inspection reveals is worn/faulty or looks damaged

Anything else? turbochargers? rear main seal?
 
#16 ·
From an XC90 newbie: once you have got your T6 engine out of your XC90 (2003) to rebuild your transmission, what maintenance should you do on the engine while its sitting on your driveway? Engine running fine (83K miles, no codes) before we dropped it, although we found the engine coolant level was pretty low. Based on VADIS routine maintenance plan, I'm considering:
- timing belt/water pump/tensioner kit
- accessory drive belt/tensioner/idler pulley kit
- spark plugs + boots (+ cylinder leakdown test due to low coolant level)
- fuel/air/oil filters
- new transmission oil cooler
- new thermostat (+ pressure test radiator)
- new engine/transmission mounts (as needed)
- anything else detailed inspection reveals is worn/faulty or looks damaged

Anything else? turbochargers? rear main seal?
Rear main, PCV system, throttle cleaning, turbo return line seals.
 
#26 ·
Yeah you need a lift to do it that way. Only other option is with the engine in the car. Not fun, but certainly possible. That is actually the way the instructions from Volvo say to do it. It's just easier with the engine down and I can have them down in about 45 minutes to an hour so its a no brainer.
 
#27 ·
Exactly.

It also allows for a better quality install of the cover because you don't need to angle it down between the engine and frame rail. Like you said, it ads ~1-1.5hrs total to the job to do it this way, but saves you at least that or more when you're actually doing the repair.
 
#30 ·
I wouldn't shy away from one of these because of a slight oil leak. There are things you can do to postpone any real work to fix it for quite a long time. If it's a good deal, make it a better deal by negotiating on the price. These things with a V8 area a real pleasure to drive and own.