SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 48 Posts

CaptSlow710

· Registered
1998 V70 T5M - Silver Metallic Unicorn, 216k, Stage 0, Daily Power Wagon
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I want to start a thread for this car. I know there were not many factory manuals imported to the states for 98-2000 T5; I have seen threads and charts that range between 120-150 ish per year (for all colors) which makes these very rare indeed.

I found the car on FB marketplace in Tampa, FL. I am in Boone, NC and this is my first Volvo. Having a long time wagon fetish (and regretfully selling an 05 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon in silver with the rare 5 spd about 10 years ago…) This particular spec had been on my “reasonable dream car” list for a while, but the hunt was casual for a long time.

The listing for this T5 had been up for at least 2 months by the time I saw it and I didn’t have much hope as my message to the seller went unanswered for about a week. Once I finally got a response, the seller was great and very responsive and communicative and I realized they were a p80 family, having 2 other p80s in the stable in addition to this t5.

After a good bit of due diligence and some negotiation, I flew down to Tampa from CLT this past week with an old friend of mine and drove it back ~750 miles over the course of a day and a half. I started a different thread in this sub forum asking for opinions about flying in and driving a car back and how to prepare and took some tools, etc in a checked bag and only used the tire pressure gauge, but at least I was prepared with some sockets, wrenches, torx drivers, etc, though I did not need them for the drive back and the car drove beautifully. This will be my daily driver / kid hauler / roadtrip vehicle.

The funny part is that 18 years ago (in the spring of 2006) I‘d found a similarly rare older manual transmission car for sale in Tampa that I needed and did the exact same thing 😆 ; it was a black 94 Mazda Miata with the rare R package and I still have the car.

Specs / Details:

215k

A goodly amount of maintenance was done by the seller @ 208k (see spreadsheet screenshot below) which helped give me the confidence to fly down and drive it back. Work done @ 208k = TB, WP, serpentine belt + all tensioners and pulleys, spark plugs+distributer service kit, fuel filter, Radiator + thermostat + hoses, power steering flush, rear cam seal, suspension - control arms, ball joints, sway bar links, tie rods, rear shocks, front struts / seats.

FL car with no rust anywhere 🙌🏽


”The List / Issues I have Identified So Far” (most of which were transparently communicated by the seller)

Interior
Power Door locks - seem to work intermittently, less so in hotter / sunnier weather and the keyless entry fob is not functioning. Sometimes have to unlock driver door manually with key and the rest don’t unlock and I have to crawl back and manually pull up the door locks from inside of the other doors. This will get annoying with 3 kids and daily driving and need some attention. The power door lock button inside on the driver’s door always locks but only sometimes unlocks.

Overhead lights - none of them work with the switch (on / off / door open) in any position. Perhaps there is an override button Im not aware of or a fuse/fuses that need replacement.

Rear Hatch Open indicator light on the instrument cluster on all the time, even when the hatch is properly closed - bad sensor / wire / etc?

Power seats not moving forward or backward, but back rest part is working/moving. Perhaps I need to study a bit closer and there may be a setting or button that is preventing full movement.

Pass front door speaker grille has fallen off / plastic mounts broken - still have the grille and will need to assess the best way to re-attach

Heater core has been bypassed - FL car - I guess they didn’t use heat….this will need to be sorted out before Fall but not immediately necessary. I will need to search and read about how to access the heater core for replacement. AC blows COLD ❄

Dash - rattles / squeaks and is a bit looser than I would expect but this is last on the list and a minor complaint. This is a 26 yr old vehicle and expectations are reasonable. I’m not sure if someone had it out at some point in the past and the reinstallation missed a few fastening points or this is just normal and due to age and wear

Exterior
Some smaller uh-ohs on the body that now show as blemishes from certain angles - pass front door dent/repair that is a different sheen and not-exactly-seamless dent repair and paint work. Similar places of “wear” on the bumpers and the hood on the front as it transitions into the front grille. Not a huge concern for me, but may be worth sorting out down the line

No rear wing - must not have come with one, but I want one and think it suits the lines of the wagon better, particularly with the roof racks.

Wheels - I would love to find some Propus wheels if they will fit without modification at some point and keep these (Comet ?) 16s as spares or possibly a winter set if I decided to. The tires are Michelins and very smooth but probably only have ~25% left.

Tint - currently no tint anywhere, which is not what I’m used to. Would be nice to have a mild tint everywhere from the driver back for light infiltration, aesthetics and privacy.

Other

PCV system needs a proper assessment. I did the glove test on a warm engine and it neither sucked in or inflated the glove…just laid flat (and it was sealed around the oil fill) Not sure of compression test numbers, but may do that to assess.

Exhaust - I want to be able to hear it slightly easier. The car engine / exhaust noise is very quiet inside the car (by design I’m sure) but Id like to have a bit more audible engagement with it personally, but without highway droning / fatigue - thoughts or suggestions

CEL codes - there were 3 upon receipt of the vehicle. I screenshot them, did some research and cleared them yesterday. They have not come back in about 250 miles of driving, fwiw.
P0410 - secondary air injection system
P0455 - Evaporative Emission System Leak detected (large)
P0133 - O2 sensor circuit slow response Bank 1 sensor 1

Some photos
 
  • Like
Reactions: ZZZZZZZ
Discussion starter · #2 ·
Few more photos - not sure why they upload in a random order (?)

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
OK, apologies for the photos…uploading them into the OP has proven tricky and confusing after I edited the post for some reason so here is the first round again hopefully…

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
 
You will really enjoy this ride !

Your wheels are called Perfos. You probably say my other comment that Propus will fit w/out moding.

Door locks not working when hot out is very common in P80's. There's a thermal wafer in the motor designed to cut voltage when hot. I believe this was to prevent kids locking and unlocking and burning out motor. The solution is to open the motor and replace the wafer with copper (real PITA). Or buy new lock motors.

Tail gate open light typically means the wiring in the drivers side gate hinge is damaged. Other wires there could be damaged also.

Seats not sliding back could just be tracks needing cleaning and lubed. Then forcing the seat forward and back to get things smooth again.

Couldn't read the detail of PO work completed. The usual items to be addressed are full PCV system including the hose assembly that runs under the intake manifold.

Timing, accessory belts and water pump.

You can place some plastic shims between the dash and windshield which might cut down some rattles.

Which of the 3 kids will get this for their first car ??
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
You will really enjoy this ride !

Your wheels are called Perfos. You probably say my other comment that Propus will fit w/out moding.

Door locks not working when hot out is very common in P80's. There's a thermal wafer in the motor designed to cut voltage when hot. I believe this was to prevent kids locking and unlocking and burning out motor. The solution is to open the motor and replace the wafer with copper (real PITA). Or buy new lock motors.

Tail gate open light typically means the wiring in the drivers side gate hinge is damaged. Other wires there could be damaged also.

Seats not sliding back could just be tracks needing cleaning and lubed. Then forcing the seat forward and back to get things smooth again.

Couldn't read the detail of PO work completed. The usual items to be addressed are full PCV system including the hose assembly that runs under the intake manifold.

Timing, accessory belts and water pump.

You can place some plastic shims between the dash and windshield which might cut down some rattles.

Which of the 3 kids will get this for their first car ??
Thanks! You must also be on the T5 / R FB group?

This is the recent maintenance that was done about 6k miles ago: TB, WP, serpentine belt + all tensioners and pulleys, spark plugs+distributer service kit, fuel filter, Radiator + thermostat + hoses, power steering flush, rear cam seal, suspension - control arms, ball joints, sway bar links, tie rods, rear shocks, front struts / seats.

Nothing related to PCV system so I will need to assess further and make a plan for that.

Thanks for all the notes on the other little bits and bobs. I will tackle them one at a time and try and bring things back in order if reasonable.

What would your preferred source for door lock motors be? Does each individual door (including rear hatch) have/need its own replacement motor in this instance?

Kids will not be getting this car just yet 😆, though the oldest is about to turn 13. This one will be mine to enjoy for hopefully many years to come.
 
Congrats on the find! Time has shown the P80 platform to be reliable and fun with moderate maintenance. I had a similar opportunity early in the pandemic when a 98 T5M popped up for sale in Raleigh, but one of our local club members got it before I could. Few months later this R came up in Raleigh as well and I grabbed it. Almost three months years we've come a long way including all major maintenance and some interior upgrades (God Bless the PnP). As for the issue you mentioned they are mostly standard with a few on the maddening scale:

Interior
Power Door locks - A known known for these when Volvo looked to refine some features to push the platform to more luxury. @RobertDIY has a great video on this (spoiler alert it requires tearing the door panels apart which will need to happen eventually)

Overhead lights - The contacts and plastics corrode/brittle over time. I've pulled several center cluster and door courtesy lights since I've owned it.

Power seats not moving forward or backward - try a switch from a junker, then motor. Once again RobertDIY is your oracle

Pass front door speaker grille has fallen off / plastic mounts broken - As mentioned above you're going to have to pull the door card at some point. Just as good a time to address lock motors.


Exterior

No rear wing - I think they really make the silhouette classical. Grab one

Wheels - The 16" version was meteorite, 17" comet (Best imho), 18" odysseus (iirc). I moved my volans from 854R to the V and love the look.

Other

Exhaust - I've debated the exhaust as well. This is a much easier proposition for the T5M w/o pipeworks required to fit AWD system. VIVA has nice systems off the shelf.

CEL codes:
P0455 - Evap Emission are maddening set to troubleshoot. Check out 'charm.li/Volvo' for online manuals
P0133 - plan on replacing O2 sensor. I've done it once on 854R thats more performance leaning and the V just threw the code last week. Its a consumable item.

Look forward to seeing your progress!
Image

Image
 
Huge congrats on the acquisition. She looks very straight, and the interior looks nice. A blank canvas. Haha $$$. I bought an "Avgas" exhaust system over 15 years ago from Euro Sport Tuning and it has been just right for me. No drone. For downpipe, you can go with an OBX. I left the turbo flange as is (straight), rather than going to "angle" flange, and it rips just fine.

I just last week did the wafer surgery on two of my door locks. It's the only permanent fix--a JY lock is only going to fail in the future as well (from experience). For me the toughest part was opening the metal prongs on the motor. Pulling the door panels is not hard, but you will break some stuff. Just have some quick epoxy at the ready to fix whatever comes apart. You can let it dry while you do the other work. Here's Robert's video on replacing the wafer.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Huge congrats on the acquisition. She looks very straight, and the interior looks nice. A blank canvas. Haha $$$. I bought an "Avgas" exhaust system over 15 years ago from Euro Sport Tuning and it has been just right for me. No drone. For downpipe, you can go with an OBX. I left the turbo flange as is (straight), rather than going to "angle" flange, and it rips just fine.

I just last week did the wafer surgery on two of my door locks. It's the only permanent fix--a JY lock is only going to fail in the future as well (from experience). For me the toughest part was opening the metal prongs on the motor. Pulling the door panels is not hard, but you will break some stuff. Just have some quick epoxy at the ready to fix whatever comes apart. You can let it dry while you do the other work. Here's Robert's video on replacing the wafer.
Thank you! I watched the lock latch vid yesterday and it doesn't seem too bad, though time consuming to do all 5 doors in this case. It's great to know exactly what the issue and long term fix is, though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ZZZZZZZ
To add to what others have said: after your replace/fix the door lock actuators, window tint will help prevent them from failing again (they still CAN fail, but the cooler the cabin is, the less likely it is to happen).

Seats not moving forward or backwards - before you buy a new switch, put a little more inward pressure on your switch as you are pressing it back and forth (press it toward the seat). They do get sticky and lose contact.

Exhaust - be careful. With a wagon, removing the resonator can produce a really annoying drone.

PCV - glove sitting flat is neither good nor bad. If it was inflating, then you need to replace the PCV asap. But you also don't want too much suction. Yours may not be in terribly shape after all.
 
The emissions code could be a result of the lines to and from the charcoal canister being bad. Pelican Parts writeup on replacing the canister, where the lines are.

I remember replacing these on my '98. I don't remember whether I was successful or not, but I figured might as well since the fuel filter was there. Knock out two birds with one stone!
 
PCV tube is probably broken due to age. Done a lot of them recently and they just fall apart when you touch them. Best to use all genuine and not worry about it after that.

Exhaust: touring cat back sound great without being too loud. Do be aware that the aural characteristics of the N engine and cams can get quite loud/drone with too much exhaust work though.
 
Congrats on the recent acquisition. I picked up my ‘98 V70 T5M in December after being out of the p80 platform for a few years. I’ve enjoyed 9k miles in the seat since then. The PO did a lot of standard maintenance, so I just had a couple of things pop up. Looking forward to following your thread.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Congrats on the recent acquisition. I picked up my ‘98 V70 T5M in December after being out of the p80 platform for a few years. I’ve enjoyed 9k miles in the seat since then. The PO did a lot of standard maintenance, so I just had a couple of things pop up. Looking forward to following your thread.

View attachment 243589
Thanks! Wow, that's a sharp T5. Are those Propus wheels? I have my eyes open for a set or something BBS similar in 17".
Where did the grille come from and how was it to change? Looks a lot cleaner than mine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ZZZZZZZ
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Mild update: Got everything beyond the windshield tinted today (20%) and it looks and feels a bit better inside and out. Less like a fishbowl Not the best
Image

Image

pics
 
Thanks! Wow, that's a sharp T5. Are those Propus wheels? I have my eyes open for a set or something BBS similar in 17".
Where did the grille come from and how was it to change? Looks a lot cleaner than mine.
Yes, they are Propus C’s. The grill was standard on V70 XC’s and common on P80 C70’s. It is literally a few plastic clips that slide on/off posts. It can be done in seconds.

Edit: If you want to keep yours correct for the year, you need one from a MY98. 99+ has the blue logo instead of the black one.
 
Thanks! Wow, that's a sharp T5. Are those Propus wheels? I have my eyes open for a set or something BBS similar in 17".
Where did the grille come from and how was it to change? Looks a lot cleaner than mine.
Thank you. I bought the car with the grille. I believe it’s an XC grille.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
I have a few little cosmetic irons in the fire with the T5, but another upcoming repair I'm starting to think about it the heater core repair. The only thing the PO wasn't super up front about until I arrived to buy the car (and maybe just forgot to tell me during my due diligence phase) is that the heater core was bypassed at some point. Presumably bc it was leaking coolant and they don't use heat in FL...

I don't need heat yet as we are still in mid May, but like to prepare myself for what's to come. I watched a few Robert DIY vids on heater core replacement and seems straightforward enough, but when I look from the engine bay down at the coolant hose holes in the firewall, I notice that the lines that are supposed to go into the back of the heater core are, in fact, not there. I will need to investigate further to see exactly how the system was bypassed.

Anybody got any resources, exploded diagrams, photos, etc that may help me sort out how all the lines should be routed and from where? I guess my initial question is where do the lines originate that supply the coolant into and out of the heater core and does anyone have any photos of that? I am a visual learner (with mechanic-ing, anyway) and can typically bumble my way through stuff if I can see what needs to be done visually.

2nd question would be what is the preferred heater core brand at this point? OEM or?

Many thanks to all - Phillip

Image

Image
 
Heater core is pretty easy. Like actually not bad at all.

Recommend Nissans, new o rings (genuine) replacing the junction/pipes as well and naturally the hoses themselves as you’re missing them. They originate from the head and water tree, under the intake tube. This may be fun to access your first time. Don’t worry there is space. Also there are different hoses for turbo and naturally aspirated cars so make sure you get the right ones!
 
1 - 20 of 48 Posts