AC issue - How cold is cold AC in Volvos?

lincolnshibuya · Jun 13, 2021

John C said:
The high side gauge isn't even connected to the system. Low side reading is about right for a system not running, but you can't tell much without the high side reading and running conditions.

true, it's hard to say without a detailed description of what's going on. If the compressor is running and high side not connected (as shown in the pic) it's an issue with the control valve (it will be close to 70 at idle and you are not getting cold air with that. It's always better to hook up both high and low readings when engine and ac is off and then another reading when engine is on and ac on. From those readings you can tell if you are low/over on refrigerant, control valve is bad or the compressor itself.

lincolnshibuya · Jun 19, 2021

lincolnshibuya said:
true, it's hard to say without a detailed description of what's going on. If the compressor is running and high side not connected (as shown in the pic) it's an issue with the control valve (it will be close to 70 at idle and you are not getting cold air with that. It's always better to hook up both high and low readings when engine and ac is off and then another reading when engine is on and ac on. From those readings you can tell if you are low/over on refrigerant, control valve is bad or the compressor itself.

I just replaced my ac control valve.

Capndirk · Jun 21, 2021

Was that fluorescent leak check dye OEM, do you think?
I'm thinking it may be worth removing the compressor to invert it and avoid losing the dye and oil. Will that work?
Did you add a shot of oil when you recharged it?

lincolnshibuya · Jun 21, 2021

Capndirk said:
Was that fluorescent leak check dye OEM, do you think?
I'm thinking it may be worth removing the compressor to invert it and avoid losing the dye and oil. Will that work?
Did you add a shot of oil when you recharged it?

They usually have a dye from the factory. I put in oil with dye (PAG 46) on my gauge (yellow line) before the charge (it's messy), too much oil is bad. It's hard to figure out how much oil got lost but I don't think there's a lot. Removing it and repositioning to avoid leakage will work. It's also going to be easy to remove and reinstall the clip with the compressor removed. In some cases the valve will be rusted stuck on the hole and it's going to be hard to pull it out. Rust forms near the outer section of the valve and it's better to spray some PB Blaster days before removal.

Capndirk · Jun 22, 2021

Thanks again for the info. I just had the compressor off to do the belt, idler, pulley, and water pump, so this time around should be easier 🙄
I'll shoot a 3oz oil charge in there while I'm at it.
Funny thing is that I was just thinking about selling my AC service equipment before I came on this discussion about the valve. We're driving up the central California valley, so I'll want this rig well maintained. Tried out the rear AC for the first time ever, today, and it's cool

Badrzain · Jul 21, 2021

##UPDATE:

I decided to take the easier and cheaper way. So I bought a compressor control valve and install it in my car myself, it wasn't hard job and the result is just surprisingly amazing.

First I made it to a local garage (no volvo specialists) and asked them to vacuum and flush the feron gas of the system. After that I started with replacing the valve following steps of a video on YouTube which I'll attach a link to it below.

After replacing the valve I asked the guys in the garage to recharge the ac system with feron gas again. It wasn't that hard job, it can take up to 30 minutes to replace the valve plus the time of vacuuming and recharging the ac system.

I was surprised after replacing it and start the engine and the ac. It took a moment to cool down but there's no heat air coming from the vents anymore and only cold air blows. I tested the ac a few days after replacing the valve and it always cooled down the car even when it's 40 - 50 grades Celsius.

The youtube video that I used to follow the process step by step.

I want to thank you all for spending time to share your thoughts and helping me and others with this issue.

MyV70Rocks · Jul 31, 2024

lincolnshibuya said:
They usually have a dye from the factory. I put in oil with dye (PAG 46) on my gauge (yellow line) before the charge (it's messy), too much oil is bad. It's hard to figure out how much oil got lost but I don't think there's a lot. Removing it and repositioning to avoid leakage will work. It's also going to be easy to remove and reinstall the clip with the compressor removed. In some cases the valve will be rusted stuck on the hole and it's going to be hard to pull it out. Rust forms near the outer section of the valve and it's better to spray some PB Blaster days before removal.

There is a video showing how to remove the valve when it' rusted stuck

AC issue - How cold is cold AC in Volvos?

lincolnshibuya

lincolnshibuya

Capndirk

lincolnshibuya

Capndirk

Badrzain

MyV70Rocks

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