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CYB3RBYTE

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm about to attempt to reshim my A/C clutch on my car, I'm getting A/C for about 12 minutes, then it goes off until I turn it off for another 10 minutes, then it will go for another 10 minutes again. I want defrost in my car for these humid, summer rains, as one nearly killed me a couple weeks back.

I bought the official volvo washer kit, hardware that MNIWT recommended, and clutch hold tool. Any tips before I attempt this job?
 
Start by measuring the gap at several points, with the clutch at ambient temperature.

Then carefully use the tool as a counterhold when you unscrew the bolt from the center, then use the tool as intended as an extractor. Carefully remove and measure the shims. They can hide in the bore, or scurry away.

You won't need the washer kit. Just remove enough shims to close the gap to 0.3mm - super-close. I removed all of them.

Again use the tool as a counterhold and tighten center bolt. Verify the gap is present.

Done.
 
Didn't realize there was an official washer kit now. I guess it is more sophisticated than bread ties LOL.

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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Does the clutch come off easily, as in I can pull it off just using the tool or will I have to use a bolt like Michael did in his video?
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Will the pulley just pull off without having to fight it, or do I need the center bolt to actually take it off a little bit at a time?


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You tighten against the tool which brings the pulley out at you. In that way it is a little bit at a time - you won't just bolt up the tool and yank the pulley off.
Also: when reinstalling, tighten the bolt instead of tapping the pulley back on. I put mine back on with a mallet, and the bearing wasn't too happy about it.
 
On my car, it took a good amount of torque on the puller center bolt. It's a sliding fit and not difficult, once it starts to move.
 
Problem with the bread clip method is that they attempt to shim the clutch engagement disc closer to the drive flange, and therefore increase the spring tension. Better to remove the shim to maintain it.

Secondary issues are that the individual ties can go flying, and therefore the clutch become cockeyed. The three rubber bumpers suffer, too.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Okay, so moron moment here, I was tightening the three m5 bolts and they started to hit their limits well before the m6 bolt and washer. They started to bend actually, so what am I doing wrong?

I got to the point where the 10mm bolt is off, can someone please tell me step by step, for a person who is an idiot (sort of) what to do next.

Here's how my M6 bolt is setup, and I had the whole bolt and washer underneath the puller tool.

Image


The M5 bolts I was using, I'm going to have to grab different ones.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Okay, so the new m5 bolts stuck to the clutch, and then one decided to not come off. I got the clutch off with some screwdrivers, but I fear things are bent up.

Now the compressor is making a terrible scraping noise, how screwed am I? I am going to hold off on putting the clutch back on until I know whether or not I can drive with it like this.

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Discussion starter · #13 ·
So, the compressor and the pulley ended up sounding terrible when I got everything apart. I'll be replacing the compressor next week sometime. At least for now I can drive the car because the clutch is so far out of alignment that it can't turn on the A/C and make the compressor overheat.
 
Sorry to hear it. But levering against the A/C pulley at a single point was bound to damage it, especially with the center bolt out. I don't recall if the pulley can be replaced - if so, that might be an option.
 
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