Can anyone recommend a front strut brace for the C70? Is there an OEM one at all like on the MK1 version?
C70 Strut Brace
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I used something called "hurricane tape" that I bought at my local Ace hardware. It hasn't let go yet. It's the strongest lightest tape have ever seen.
just installed an oem strut tower bar in my 08 that i bought from a forum member (he got a prettier after market one). i installed it using the pre-existing bolts without any problems - plenty of thread to accommodate the bar and the bar still clears everything. just needed a socket and crescent wrench - an upgrade even a newbie like me could handle!
i'd like to say its not just psychological that i feel the car drives better. my commute is a twisty drive and the c70's front end jumps around less and tends to go where i point it now vs a more vague impression before. no less comfort (which makes sense - that would probably only happen more with performance suspension changes).
i'd like to say its not just psychological that i feel the car drives better. my commute is a twisty drive and the c70's front end jumps around less and tends to go where i point it now vs a more vague impression before. no less comfort (which makes sense - that would probably only happen more with performance suspension changes).
Santa (disguised as a UPS driver) delivered the strut brace and hardware yesterday for our 2012 C70. Quick and easy install. Haven't driven it yet, but just wanted to thank regtor for the writeup, pictures, and part numbers!
As best as I could tell by just opening/closing the hood while feeling the placement of the wiper hose, it does not seem to be a potential problem with our car. It seems to be well clear of the brace. But, thanks to others on here, I know to keep an eye on it in case it turns into a problem.
As best as I could tell by just opening/closing the hood while feeling the placement of the wiper hose, it does not seem to be a potential problem with our car. It seems to be well clear of the brace. But, thanks to others on here, I know to keep an eye on it in case it turns into a problem.
Regtor- I put the K&N replacement filter in each car. I don't know if it made much difference in performance since subtle changes are just as likely to be wishful thinking as to be a true measurable difference. I have read elsewhere that the stock airbox (as with everything under the hood- the same for the C70 and C30) has plenty of room to provide all the air a mildly tuned T5 engine can handle. Since I don't intend to make any other performance changes to either car, I decided to just keep it simple.
Now, with all the disclaimers in place, I do believe I felt a small bit of improvement with just the K&N filter installation.
Now, with all the disclaimers in place, I do believe I felt a small bit of improvement with just the K&N filter installation.
just a word of warning, i broke and stripped a couple of my strut tower bar bolts torquing to 20ft-lbs. i had no problems the 1st time i installed it, but i had a new dampers/shifts installed and developed some rattling a few months later. i noticed almost all the bolts were loose so i re-tightened them and "snap.". maybe it was the variance in the harbor freight torque wrench - or i've read it's good to consider replacing these bolts as procedure when doing new installs.
fortunately my local shop was able to fish them out and replace them no problem (and free of charge). dealer wanted $1300 to drop the suspension and drill out the bolts.
just wanted to spare folks my mistake/stress. lean towards high teens ft-lbs for torque since these don't have to be that tight
fortunately my local shop was able to fish them out and replace them no problem (and free of charge). dealer wanted $1300 to drop the suspension and drill out the bolts.
just wanted to spare folks my mistake/stress. lean towards high teens ft-lbs for torque since these don't have to be that tight
this thread helped me out recently. i had developed a squeak on the front end when the car rocked, like sudden braking or accelerating. turned out it was the strut tower bar was rubbing the car frame on the underside because i didn't bother using the screw with a pin. it lacked just an additional 1-2mm clearance...probably didn't notice the squeaking as much because i was dealing with noises from a damaged strut tower bearing and front control arm poly bushes...or it previously hadn't been tightened down enough, who knows.
in any case, i drove without the bar for a few weeks. i was in bliss because along with new bearing and control arms, my car was driving so beautifully and quietly finally. i was debating just leaving the strut tower off since the screw with pins are relatively expensive for what they are and i wasn't sure how much benefit the bar would really provide since it was left off some p1s with the assumption greater strut reinforcement had been built into the car...
well, after proper installation with the screw with pins, definitely no return of squeaks. and it really does tighten things up when driving aggressively through twisties. if you're a more casual driver you may not notice as much, but as the struts transition and track at different angles during hard and fast cornering the car definitely seems to hold the line with more precision. so the oem bar really is worthwhile for those without one.
in any case, i drove without the bar for a few weeks. i was in bliss because along with new bearing and control arms, my car was driving so beautifully and quietly finally. i was debating just leaving the strut tower off since the screw with pins are relatively expensive for what they are and i wasn't sure how much benefit the bar would really provide since it was left off some p1s with the assumption greater strut reinforcement had been built into the car...
well, after proper installation with the screw with pins, definitely no return of squeaks. and it really does tighten things up when driving aggressively through twisties. if you're a more casual driver you may not notice as much, but as the struts transition and track at different angles during hard and fast cornering the car definitely seems to hold the line with more precision. so the oem bar really is worthwhile for those without one.
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Just did this mod to my 2008. The results are certainly noticable, and worth the effort as steering response is improved. I ordered a used brace that came with the screw with pins and two plastic snap on guards. Beware if ordering from Volvo as they will try to sell you a part # that supposedly supercedes the original. It is totally different and does not fit. Once the correct one arrived, it was on in a jiffy. I too, went easy on the torque as a precaution.
There's a strut bar available on ebay today. Mine will arrive tomorrow.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-OEM-...0-V50-05-13/273306648114?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-OEM-...0-V50-05-13/273306648114?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
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667 Posts
After 6+ years the strut brace is still fine and secure. The stainless locking nuts and washers look brand new. I even managed to replace the battery without having to remove the brace. On one of the ends, I see a tiny bit of rubbed off paint on the underneath of the hood, no big deal, likely the result of some spirited driving. I do keep the windshield washer hose out of the way with some tape (it got pinched one or twice). And yes, the screw with pin were about $10/each and I used four of them (had one already in car), not cheap but still squeak-free after all these years.
I have to add. This Volvo OEM strut bar from FCP tightens up the front drive train. The steering is right on. I have no issues with sway in corners. It goes where I steer it.
The front wheel spin at launch is more controllable so you don’t burn rubber. The cornering is right on with the back end. The front braking is increased because the front end adjusts more quickly with the ECU after learning your driving.
I still think I need a rear lower strut bar to complete it. I also need to change the DP. I have an extra 05 R Exhaust manifold. Would this help?
The front wheel spin at launch is more controllable so you don’t burn rubber. The cornering is right on with the back end. The front braking is increased because the front end adjusts more quickly with the ECU after learning your driving.
I still think I need a rear lower strut bar to complete it. I also need to change the DP. I have an extra 05 R Exhaust manifold. Would this help?
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Based on my experience, I agree with you on the need for a beefier rear sway bar. The combination made a big handling difference in my C70. Of course, it is no Miata, but a very definite improvement. Here's my writeup on installing an Elevate rear sway bar:https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?190828-Elevate-rear-sway-bar-installed-how-to-and-pics
After some thought over the years, I've decided that I'm happy with the factory intake and exhaust setup, mainly because I'm not convinced these mods provide extra power and I'm not a fan of more sound (it is my daily driver, including during top up winter months). As you know, there are plenty of others here at SS that can chime in (and likely disagree with me).
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HI Regtor-
Just curious did you jack up the car to take it off the suspension when you did this mod.? Or did you just do on bolt at a time with car on ground? I just ordered mine from FCP.They didn't have the pins though.
I guess Volvo still stocks them. Thanks
Just curious did you jack up the car to take it off the suspension when you did this mod.? Or did you just do on bolt at a time with car on ground? I just ordered mine from FCP.They didn't have the pins though.
I guess Volvo still stocks them. Thanks
gotart, I did not jack the car. I simply installed it using the special bolts that Erie VOVO included. I tightened them to 200 inches. We're driving our C70 into the North Carolina mountains soon and I can't wait to tackle some winding roads.
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667 Posts
No jacking up needed - actually you should NOT do it as you want to keep weight on the front struts while removing the bolts.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yeah just did mine. Got the 4 flange nuts (985970) & lock washers at my local Ace for about $2.00 total. Ordered the Strut (31392445) from FCP and the threaded pins 987509 (3- as one was on the car) from Tasca.
Ok we'll see if there'll be a difference- But I'm sure there will be. Thanks Regtor for your pics.
Ok we'll see if there'll be a difference- But I'm sure there will be. Thanks Regtor for your pics.
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