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Can anyone recommend a front strut brace for the C70? Is there an OEM one at all like on the MK1 version?
There is an OEM strut brace - in my eyes it's a must have upgrade. you will immediatlely feel beter handling..
 

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I am interested as well but my research suggests that the OEM strut tower bar/brace was only available for the old C70s (2005 and earlier) and will not fit the 2006 and later models. I believe this bar is Volvo part number 9204176.

So kova, I am very interested in the OEM brace in your 2009, as I believe it would fit my 2011. Is it a three-bolt model? Would you mind posting a picture?

I'm also looking into the ones sold by ViVA performance:
http://www.vivaperformance.com/strut-tower-brace-s40-v50-c30-c70/
 

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Very interesting - no such thing on my 2011. is yours a 2012? RHD or LHD? (I thought you were in UK but can't recall) I would think that would make a difference with respect to the brake master cylinder and fluid reservoir. In other words, I would expect the OEM bar to jog around these bits, as well as the plastic battery cover. A picture would be very much appreciated...
 

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Many thanks! In addition to being on the "wrong" side ;), the brake fluid reservoir in yours is designed so that it can be filled around the strut brace. Interesting also that is a single-bolt design -- would've thought that you needed two on either side.

Next time I'm at the dealer I will have to look at a 2012 to see if there is a LHD version of the strut brace. I'm also going to contact Volvo NA to see what they say.

For comparison, here are pics of mine:




 

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The first year 2006 model had a strut brace from the factory (I assume that Token's car is a MY2006.) In 2007 the factory strut brace disappeared. I was buying a 2007 at the time, and inquired about buying the 2006 strut brace. I was told (via a response that actually came from the factory) that the unibody structure had been modified for 2007 by integrating a partial strut brace under the cowl, to provide similar stiffening as in the 2006, but without the external brace. You can just see the one end of it, peeking out a bit from the right side under-cowl area (driver side for Americans). It doesn't attach to the tops of the strut towers, but is more built into the overall structure (and is only barely visible).

Actually, if you ever see some of the photos of just the unibody structure, in some of these you can see this built-in brace more clearly.

That said, I think that a separate strut brace would still add stiffness, and also looks cool!

Later add: You can see this integrated brace in the photos in this linked article. It looks pretty flimsy in the second photo, but the third photo down gives a better view. In the fully-built car it is mostly buried under the cowl. In thinking back I think the modification might not have been totally-aligned with the start of the 2007 model year - I seem to think that early 2007's still had the external brace. My car was built in 12/06, and bought at the end of January 2007, and I seem to recall that the changeover took place during the Fall of 2006, when they might have already made some 2007's.

http://www.autospectator.com/cars/v...volvo-c70-convertible-unique-safety-solutions
 

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That said, I think that a separate strut brace would still add stiffness, and also looks cool!
Mine is MY2009, fitted OEM strut brace and even wife noticed it immediately as the car was stiffer while climbing on sidewalk. You will also notice less understeer.

P.S. it's hard for me to judge the look of it as I don't see it very often. Others, except for my mechanic, probably see it even less often.. :D
 

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Volvo OEM front strut brace installed

I finally installed the Volvo OEM front strut brace on my C70. So far I am happy with the result; car seems stiffer under 'spirited' handling. Here's a quick write up on what you need and installation.

First, you need to purchase the following Volvo parts from your favorite Volvo retailer:

Quantity --- Part Name ------------------------------ Part No.
-- 1 -------- Stay (this is the strut bar/brace) ---- 30736345
-- 4 -------- Screw with pin --------------------------- 987509
-- 4 -------- Flange nut ------------------------------- 985970

Total cost should be around $100-$120.

The "screw with pin" is used to replace the bolts that attach the strut tower to the car. The screw with pin allows you to easily remove the strut brace later without having to remove the bolt that holds the strut. This is definitely something you want to able to do as you will need to remove the strut brace when it is time to replace the battery. The screw with pin looks like this, with the "flange nut" shown above it (the washers are separate and from a hardware store):



HOWEVER, please note that for some reason my 2011 C70 already had one of these "screws with pins" installed on the right hand side strut tower, by the brake fluid reservoir (see pictures above in this thread). So I only had to buy three of these screws with pins. ALSO, after buying one of the flange nuts ($2 each) I returned it and decided to instead use stainless nuts and washers from my local hardware store ($3 total for all I needed -- size M8 metric). I wanted nuts with the integrated nylon lock ring to make sure they will not get loose. Since the stainless nuts do not have the flange that the OEM nut has, you need a (preferably stainless) washer, M8 metric size. Of course, if you want to go OEM all the way you can't go wrong with the flange nut.

Finally, I also added a larger washer between the "screw with pin" and the car chassis. Here is a picture of replacing the existing silver colored bolts with the new "screws with pins" with the red paint (thread lock?) on the threads:



one more:


The brace was a tight fit, but I was able to get it into the four bolts (screws with pins) with some slight persuasion. You can see the tight fit in this picture (note how the bolts fit on the holes on the brace, no nuts on the bolts):



Here's a pic of the other side, showing the fit relative to the brake fluid reservoir and the battery. No problem accessing the brake fluid fill, or removing the plastic battery cover (it slides out straight back towards you). So if you ever need a jump you'll be OK. However, the brace will have to be removed in order to replace the battery. Note my use of stainless nuts and washers instead of the OEM flange nuts.



One last point, on the right hand side (drivers side in USA), make sure that the small rubber hose for the windshield washer fluid (on the underside of the hood) is loose enough to go around the brace and not get in between the brace and the hood. It is a tight fit but if you just pull out the hose a bit to make it looser (and less tidy) it will fall aft of the brace and will be no problem.

This was a simple job that anyone with a metric socket set can handle (you will need a 21 mm deep socket or box wrench/spanner to install the screws with pins).

I will report back on handling performance, but so far so good.
 

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Added this as well on my '08 with regtor's instructions and part #s. There were no washers for the "screw with pin", but the one that was already installed on the car has one. Does that matter? Should I get washers for the three other "screw with pin" ?

Anyway, handling was immediately noticeable. Took it on a twisty road right after. Feels like I'm in more control of the car now and that it won't get away from me.

Very pleased!
 

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Added this as well on my '08 with regtor's instructions and part #s. There were no washers for the "screw with pin", but the one that was already installed on the car has one. Does that matter? Should I get washers for the three other "screw with pin" ?
Not sure it matters that much. I had some around so I put them in just to make sure everything was centered and aligned.

Yes, I do think it made a difference in handling. Glad I could help.

I'm sorry the pictures are gone -- they had been on the swedespeed C70 gallery which was hosted on Apple's MobileMe, and I understand Apple killed MobileMe, so the links are all dead. The moderator says he has the pics, but I don't know where they will be hosted.
 

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Pictures are back

I fixed the links to the pictures in my instructions above. Hopefully they are visible to everyone now.

Handling is definitively improved. I highly recommend this upgrade.
 

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I fixed the links to the pictures in my instructions above. Hopefully they are visible to everyone now.

Handling is definitively improved. I highly recommend this upgrade.
cool! i just bought an oem strut tower bar for my 08 c70 from another forum member (he bought an fancier looking aftermarket one). look forward to a quick/easy install and noticeable handling improvement!
 

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thanks for this info. i was able to order the parts and install them on my 2012 C70. no issues. i had to guess on the torque for the bolts. the factory bolts seem to break away around 20 ft lbs. i re-installed the "screw with pin" bolts to 22 ft lbs and the nuts for the strut bar at 16 ft lbs. anybody now the true torque specs for these bolts?
 

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I did everything on mine to just over 20 ft-lbs and have kept an eye on them since installation last May (7 months ago). Everything is still nice and tight. The only issue (and very minor) has been the hose for the windshield washer fluid. I have to make sure it doesn't get pinched when closing the hood - it did once and leaked some fluid around a nearby coupler on the hose. I duct taped it to the hood so that it would not hit the bar but the tape has failed, so I'm considering other solutions. Not a big deal, I just need to make sure it doesn't get caught by the bar when closing the hood.
 

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I did everything on mine to just over 20 ft-lbs and have kept an eye on them since installation last May (7 months ago). Everything is still nice and tight. The only issue (and very minor) has been the hose for the windshield washer fluid. I have to make sure it doesn't get pinched when closing the hood - it did once and leaked some fluid around a nearby coupler on the hose. I duct taped it to the hood so that it would not hit the bar but the tape has failed, so I'm considering other solutions. Not a big deal, I just need to make sure it doesn't get caught by the bar when closing the hood.
I sure hope you used some of that camo colored duck(t) tape so no one could see it! ;)
 
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