Radiator replacement - pictures?

FastWgn · Nov 7, 2017

I have a slow leak which seems to be coming from the radiator, passenger side. Both intake and exit hoses are dry, and I can see the coolant slowly coming down for the radiator core on the passenger side (bottom).
Seems like I likely have a crack in the plastic and/or radiator core.
Called the local Volvo mechanic and they said it's a 6 hours job, removing entire sandwich of intercooler and radiator. Did a search and found some people saying the easiest path is to remove the bumper and go from the front. Others, including the sticky thread:

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?176736

say you can easily do if from the bottom.
No pictures of the procedure as far as I can see anywhere.

So 2 quick questions:

1. Fro those that have done the job - bottom or bumper removal? Anyone have some pictures? Is it a 6 hours job? Doesn't sound like it.
2. Both Nissens and Behr seems to have two issues - the S clamps (tabs) have to be adjusted and the hose attachments are "flimsier" than OEM. Nissen and Behr are $120, OEM if $400. If I do this myself, I may just buy OEM to save me the hassle. Is the adjustment a pain in the butt? Worth $300 to skip it?

Thank you very much in advance!

aznatama · Nov 7, 2017

Bottom is easier if you can get the car high enough. Might as well look into a do88 drop in ic while you're at it too.

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TacklaNHL · Nov 7, 2017

aznatama said:
Bottom is easier if you can get the car high enough. Might as well look into a do88 drop in ic while you're at it too.

Sent from my F8332 using Tapatalk

This IC is amazing. Best bang for the buck for sure.

For the Radiator... I'd recommend a Nissens from FCP. Lifetime warranty, and save a ton. Works great.

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TacklaNHL · Nov 7, 2017

TacklaNHL said:
This IC is amazing. Best bang for the buck for sure.

For the Radiator... I'd recommend a Nissens from FCP. Lifetime warranty, and save a ton. Works great.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh.. and we're mentioning the IC because it has to be pulled out when you pull the radiator. So it's the perfect time to do the IC upgrade, as you don't want to have to do this again. Yes 6 hrs is a reasonable estimate.

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FastWgn · Nov 7, 2017

TacklaNHL said:
Oh.. and we're mentioning the IC because it has to be pulled out when you pull the radiator. So it's the perfect time to do the IC upgrade, as you don't want to have to do this again. Yes 6 hrs is a reasonable estimate.

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Thank you for rapid replies!
OK - seemed from another write-up the IC can stay put, held by the IC hoses?

6 hours reasonable? OK -thanks - seemed like e faster job from some of the other posts, esp since I have a manual - no trans cooler to worry about.

TacklaNHL · Nov 7, 2017

FastWgn said:
Thank you for rapid replies!
OK - seemed from another write-up the IC can stay put, held by the IC hoses?

6 hours reasonable? OK -thanks - seemed like e faster job from some of the other posts, esp since I have a manual - no trans cooler to worry about.

I've heard of that too, but when you're in there doing it ... I just don't see it, the IC has to come out.

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djkronik57 · Nov 7, 2017

I just did this a month ago.

Don't mess with the bumper. It comes out fairly easily with the car on ramps. IC stays in. Takes a bit of working and moving, but it's definitely not the worst job I've done on the R.

I got the Nissens radiator. Do you have an auto or a manual? It comes with the auto trans cooler connections which can get in the way a bit when reinstalling, but it's doable.

It didn't take me 6 hours, more like 4 and I was going slow. The key is go slow. Don't force it, there are lots of things for it to get caught on. Having another set of hands helps tremendously.

As for the S clips, yes one side is too tight, but you can force it in and it makes room.

FastWgn · Nov 7, 2017

djkronik57 said:
I just did this a month ago.

Don't mess with the bumper. It comes out fairly easily with the car on ramps. IC stays in. Takes a bit of working and moving, but it's definitely not the worst job I've done on the R.

I got the Nissens radiator. Do you have an auto or a manual? It comes with the auto trans cooler connections which can get in the way a bit when reinstalling, but it's doable.

It didn't take me 6 hours, more like 4 and I was going slow. The key is go slow. Don't force it, there are lots of things for it to get caught on. Having another set of hands helps tremendously.

As for the S clips, yes one side is too tight, but you can force it in and it makes room.

Very helpful - thank you!
I do have a manual so no trans cooler to worry about. Going slow sounds like a good plan. Did you get any new gaskets, bolts, screws, fasteners, etc? I know the hoses will last a long time so not planning to replace those.

djkronik57 · Nov 7, 2017

Only thing I needed was a new clamp for the small overflow hose on the top. The old connector was a press fit clamp and it flew off behind the engine when I pushed the hose out of the way. Luckily, it landed out of reach on top of my angle gear and not in my open turbo outlet (stuff rags in there!).

One of the bolts on top of the old radiator had broken the plastic retainer (they are square head and the plastic stops them from spinning) and the nut wouldn't loosen, so I had to cut off the old support. The Nissens comes with everything else you need, aside from coolant.

Don't tighten the hoses down on the Nissens too much -- they don't have the metal inside piece like the Volvo unit and you could crack the plastic if you over tighten.

ZZZZZZZ · Nov 7, 2017

Didn’t do it myself but helped and it was six hours or a bit more on 10/27. We did the whole sandwich though, at my Indy’s shop. It made sense for me since I had no ac and at 124k I wanted assurance the radiator and hoses were all good. We removed bumper and went out bottom. If I’d had another 500 I would have done a do88 maybe. Fcp euro is the way to go. Like the other guy said- everything but coolant.

Papa_Kirlo · Nov 8, 2017

Hope my experience is not to late for you.

I had a small radiator leak in my 2006. Last spring I bought an OEM radiator from Tasca parts. About a month ago I noticed that level is low and one of the side plastic tanks is sweaty. Wrote a letter to Tasca asking about warranty and got a run arounds saying - go to your local Volvo dealer and tell them you have a warranty issue.. no reply on my wtf follow up email. I probably wont be pushing this as I done need another p.o.s. I might just buy aluminum when issue become more apparent.

My point -save some money and buy an aluminum radiator. I wish I did in a first place. I prefer to fix my cars with OEM parts but it didn't work this time.

aznatama · Nov 8, 2017

Papa_Kirlo said:
Wrote a letter to Tasca asking about warranty and got a run arounds saying - go to your local Volvo dealer and tell them you have a warranty issue..

Well, to be fair, warranty is through the manufacturer, not Tasca... but this is why I shop at FCP. Aluminum has it's own issues as well.

Vasquez · Nov 8, 2017

LOL, had a similar issue.

A shop replaced my radiator when the DO88 intercooler went in.
Few months later i noticed a drop in coolant level and some drops on the floor, heck my new radiator leaked.

I thought about it for a few days and decided to upgrade and buy the DO88 aluminium radiator.
DO88 alu was more expensive than a stock replacement, but didnt want to waste time/money again on radiators.
If a new one would go bust again i would have kicked myself for not doing the alu DO88 right away.

Discovered that the first replacement radiator wasnt original as my shop stated but some cheap aftermarket crap.
Could be why it went boom, if remember correct it started shortly after a dyno session, guess it just cracked open.
Hope my new DO88 alu is going to last longer.

Losing coolant on my baby gave me a headache, no more cheap stuff on my car, ever!
In the end the damn thing spilled all just topped off coolant out in less than 15 meters, immediately stopped driving it.

So my advice would be, spent money : buy an original Nissens or do the aluminium radiator upgrade.

Wayne T5 · Nov 8, 2017

This do88 radiator didn't work too well. See post 2298 in the thread.

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...thread.php?302625-ScottishBrick-s-1999-Pewter-V70-T5-Super-Sleeper-Wagon/page66

YMMV.

ScottishBrick · Nov 8, 2017

Wayne T5 said:
This do88 radiator didn't work too well. See post 2298 in the thread.

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...thread.php?302625-ScottishBrick-s-1999-Pewter-V70-T5-Super-Sleeper-Wagon/page66

YMMV.

Ya. Don't.

Vasquez · Nov 8, 2017

Ok, read that.

But RN radiator isnt exactly the same as the one in that thread.

ZZZZZZZ · Nov 8, 2017

Really hard to beat at 128 bucks.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-radiator-s60-s80-v70-xc70-1

ScottishBrick · Nov 8, 2017

Vasquez said:
Ok, read that.

But RN radiator isnt exactly the same as the one in that thread.

Same company same aluminum same design.

Just buy the oem Volvo one.

Vasquez · Nov 8, 2017

Lol, that's over simplified, can't take that very serious :-D

Do you have any other arguments which can convince me?

Vasquez · Nov 8, 2017

Same company, same aluminium also applies to the intercooler...

That implies what...??

Radiator replacement - pictures?

FastWgn

aznatama

TacklaNHL

TacklaNHL

FastWgn

TacklaNHL

djkronik57

FastWgn

djkronik57

ZZZZZZZ

Papa_Kirlo

aznatama

Vasquez

Wayne T5

ScottishBrick

Vasquez

ZZZZZZZ

ScottishBrick

Vasquez

Vasquez

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