Noticing my car is going through spats of hesitation under hard acceleration. Feels like the turbo is spooling up then just stopping. It actually throws you forward as it stops pulling. Not getting any messages or check engine lights. I'm guessing if I found a place that can pull the Volvo specific codes it would show me something? Any usual suspects I should be looking into? Starting to feel very cynical towards this car. :thumbdown:
Hesitation under hard acceleration
MurrrC01
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Is it the same Bosch sensor? If so, what a terrible design.
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Yep it's easy to do, less than 30 minutes. Just make sure you let all the pressure out you can from the Shrader Valve (looks the same as the tire valve) on the opposite side of the fuel rail. I didn't, and the sensor required a bit of a tap to get it off, and it esploded off the end due to there being some pressure in there still. My PTSD kicked in for a second haha.
I also have the scantool ODBII Link MX and my dad has the ODBII Link LX from scantool.com and neither will access anything from anywhere else other than the CEL codes.
I just got an icarsoft and it can access the volvo modules.
When I changed my fps, I took the fuel pump fuse out and started the car a few times to release the pressure of the rail. Then I pushed on the shraeder valve with some old socks stuffed under it and on it and releases the rest. Then took the fps put. It had to be tapped a little bit. I put a little engine oil on the oring and slid it on and put the fuse back in, turned the key to position 2 a few times and it started right up.
Oh and I stuffed some old t-shirts under the fps to catch the gas the leaks out so it didn't get in the alternator. Which was about half a cup or so.
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When I changed my fps, I took the fuel pump fuse out and started the car a few times to release the pressure of the rail. Then I pushed on the shraeder valve with some old socks stuffed under it and on it and releases the rest. Then took the fps put. It had to be tapped a little bit. I put a little engine oil on the oring and slid it on and put the fuse back in, turned the key to position 2 a few times and it started right up.
Oh and I stuffed some old t-shirts under the fps to catch the gas the leaks out so it didn't get in the alternator. Which was about half a cup or so.
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Thanks for all of the input. Not sure whether to try and replace the FPS, or take it in and have someone look at the fuel rails. I have the money to maintain the car, but that doesn't change that it's a bit of a money pit so far.
The car redeems itself quickly when I'm doing powerslides in the snow.... which we don't have any of because it's 65 degrees in northern IN today. What global warming? I don't see any.
The car redeems itself quickly when I'm doing powerslides in the snow.... which we don't have any of because it's 65 degrees in northern IN today. What global warming? I don't see any.
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Same thing happened to me and new plugs Got me tearing down the road 
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I think it's been echoed here but if you do the FPS sensor first lay down some plastic and drop cloths and don't stare directly into the relief valve, that gasoline bukake is not as fun as it sounds.
"Embody god... Then go crazy"
"Embody god... Then go crazy"
I just stuffed old shirts and stuff below the fps and the valve and put something over the valve when I pressed it to prevent leaking and spraying. Don't just put something under the car cause you don't want the gas in the alternator which is exactly what it pours on.
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Are there two relief valves? There's on one the right (driver side), the opposite side of the engine as the alternator? Is there one right above the alternator as well?
Just took my car into a shop that's right across the street from me. They're not a volvo shop, specifically, but it's so convenient, and the people there are nice and typically very helpful. They of course couldn't duplicate the hesitation and sputtering (obviously they didn't drive it long enough) but he recommended a tune up, basically. Plugs, coils, and a flush for the injectors. I said fine, it's at 100k miles and it's probably due. Hopefully that'll do? Is the fuel injector flush a waste of money? I seem to think the fuel additive you can buy over the counter could be just as effective, or just as much snake oil?
I might replace the FPS myself once I get it back.
I might replace the FPS myself once I get it back.
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Plugs then coils then the rest.
"Embody god... Then go crazy"
"Embody god... Then go crazy"
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Id say it's just running down the list of things that could be the main issue, no doubt your due for a tune up but that doesn't mean you need the full treatment. Like
I said if your on a budget start small and easy and run down the list. I'm still convinced if you clean and regap your plugs that may cure your problems. Just a thought I mean it's free.
"Embody god... Then go crazy"
I said if your on a budget start small and easy and run down the list. I'm still convinced if you clean and regap your plugs that may cure your problems. Just a thought I mean it's free.
"Embody god... Then go crazy"
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If you are interested (and you may not be) do the research on the E3 plugs, I put them in mine and I lost a few degrees of the spark advancement (which is a good thing) at higher RPM's over the stock plugs according to the live feed to my ODBII. They survive the heat of my highly modified air-cooled harley bigtwin, so I figured they would withstand the heat of these engines only running at 180-210*F and were $30 for the set with no need to gap.
I found the local auto parts store (advance auto parts) have lifetime warranty coils for $60 a pop ($330 including tax).
I was on a budget before the motor went, and these along with the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor I posted before is the cheapest way to redo everything for the least amount of money. Injectors are another $400 themselves - glad I didn't need to use them and sent them back.
I also found something while washing the engine bay, without the handle pulled in at the local carwash, and it got water inside of where the coils plug into the harness, causing cylinders to misfire and not run. I had to take everything apart, and clean it all out with MAF cleaner, let it dry and then when I reconnected it all the cylinders worked just fine again. It seems to me all the seals on the car let dirt and water in, so I filled them up with dielectric grease to make the connections waterproof if I ever needed to wash it again.
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This.
But will that shop use Volvo plugs and coils, or their Bosch equivalent? Probably not, especially when it comes to the coils. Many different aftermarket coils out there for our cars that aren't cheap, but I wouldn't trust them any farther than I could throw them except in a emergency repair. And will they gap the plugs correctly? Proper gap for turbo motor is 0.028 inches (not mm).
This job is an easy DIY, and if you do that you can take a little extra time to get the right parts.
All good points. Unfortunately by the time I called them to inquire and give them the gap spec, it was already done. He said the tech gapped them correctly, and I don't necessarily have any reason to doubt them. It's a nice, clean, and well-run shop. However, what would the potential symptoms be of plugs that aren't gapped correctly?
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Slightly off, hesitations and misfires under hard acceleration.
Way off, frequent misfires and/or poor idle.
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