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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Noticing my car is going through spats of hesitation under hard acceleration. Feels like the turbo is spooling up then just stopping. It actually throws you forward as it stops pulling. Not getting any messages or check engine lights. I'm guessing if I found a place that can pull the Volvo specific codes it would show me something? Any usual suspects I should be looking into? Starting to feel very cynical towards this car. :thumbdown:
 

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Could be a bad FPS which would cause a sudden hesitation. Mine did that without a code for a while before finally throwing one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. That sounds like it very well could be it. Looks like an easy fix, though this car seems to need $150 here, $900 there, etc. Should've bought a ..... well anything not European.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Any specific way to know whether it could be FPS vs PCV?
 

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You could glove test the pcv. I got my oem fps off amazon for 50 bucks a few months ago.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Forgot all about the glove test. Thanks!
 

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Spark plugs first just clean and re gap them or buy new ones. See " elevate tune" in the search box this resolved the same exact issue we had. The feeling was like you would start creeping into boost then just a sputtering feeling.

After this I would say the FPS for sure but the plugs just seem like an easier and cheaper first option.


"Embody god... Then go crazy"
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My initial thought was plugs, but this has been very intermittent. I had a bit of it happening a month or so back, then not again until now. Now it seems to be doing it more often, but still not all of the time.
 

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Just because there's no CEL does not mean there's no codes. If you don't have a code scanner, autozone can run it for free.

But I would check spark plugs and the FPS.
A failed PCV won't cause your car to completely lose power unless it's shot entirely, but I'm sure you would have noticed the whistling symptoms long before it got this far.

Don't hate on European cars :D Your car is 10 years old, it's just time to replace all the little things to get it back to new again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So Autozone can scan for the special Volvo codes? I figured they only had standard OBDII scanners.

I'm noticing the symptoms definitely don't appear until after the car has been driven for about 15 minutes. It does seem more sluggish even before it starts doing it too.

I know it's part of having an older car, but it really has been one thing after the other ever since I got it. When I was a kid my parent's friend drove a really sleek volvo. Not sure what model, but it was black, dark tinted windows, always clean, and really sharp-looking. I always told him I wanted his car. He would reply by shaking his head and stating, "No you don't." I now understand.
 

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So Autozone can scan for the special Volvo codes? I figured they only had standard OBDII scanners.
They can't decipher Volvo's specific code breakdowns, but codes are codes and they'll still be visible with an OBDII scanner. You may have some pending codes which haven't triggered a CEL yet.
 

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I felt the same way towards the end of my first s40 but then again that was my first "nicer" car, it wasn't a 2001 4-banger eclipse, the parts didn't cost pitons on eBay and nobody knows how to work on them.

Now that I'm in my second one I still feel the same but know enough to not complain haha! this car takes patience and knowledge, I've always said volvos attract the kind of people that like to really dig in and learn how stuff works and people that like to tinker.

That being said if you don't have the time and money to not only afford the parts but install them yourself, a Volvo is going to be expensive. But if your willing to get your hands dirty then just remember you have a literal community of knowledge here.

I never had a code kicked for either the FPS or plugs but I think that's because the symptoms weren't consistent so I don't think autozone will tell you much.


"Embody god... Then go crazy"
 

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So Autozone can scan for the special Volvo codes? I figured they only had standard OBDII scanners.

I'm noticing the symptoms definitely don't appear until after the car has been driven for about 15 minutes. It does seem more sluggish even before it starts doing it too.

I know it's part of having an older car, but it really has been one thing after the other ever since I got it. When I was a kid my parent's friend drove a really sleek volvo. Not sure what model, but it was black, dark tinted windows, always clean, and really sharp-looking. I always told him I wanted his car. He would reply by shaking his head and stating, "No you don't." I now understand.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F9IZTO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
^
That's the fuel rail pressure sensor I bought and the other guy was referring to - genuine bosch part comes out of the box.

As an ODBII reader, I got the AutoPhix ODBII+Volvo:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4UOWU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
^
Reads live data from all the sensors, and can access every system in there to pull codes, and erase all the codes as well. This would be a good start, I can tell you that mine had pending codes for a long time before they officially became stored codes.

I am not sure about your particular issue, I was in the same boat, it would not trigger anything unless I exceeded 40% throttle. If I didn't hold the pedal down during the stumbling, the misfire (CEL flashing) indicator wouldn't blink or stay on, but there was a pending code (misfire random and cyl#4 misfire). Turns out it was the coils (I replaced the plugs first with E3's), and the increased resistance of air/fuel above 40% throttle meant they weren't firing when they should. Not good enough to work the full range, but good enough at any RPM below 40% throttle.
 

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I felt the same way towards the end of my first s40 but then again that was my first "nicer" car, it wasn't a 2001 4-banger eclipse, the parts didn't cost pitons on eBay and nobody knows how to work on them.

Now that I'm in my second one I still feel the same but know enough to not complain haha! this car takes patience and knowledge, I've always said volvos attract the kind of people that like to really dig in and learn how stuff works and people that like to tinker.

That being said if you don't have the time and money to not only afford the parts but install them yourself, a Volvo is going to be expensive. But if your willing to get your hands dirty then just remember you have a literal community of knowledge here.

I never had a code kicked for either the FPS or plugs but I think that's because the symptoms weren't consistent so I don't think autozone will tell you much.


"Embody god... Then go crazy"
Well put! But I do need to say, parts for my parent's Fusion and Tacoma cost more than parts have been for the Volvo! Labor has been about the same across the board.
 

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Sounds like bad coils to me if it's sputtering/hesitating after the engine has warmed up .
Noticing my car is going through spats of hesitation under hard acceleration. Feels like the turbo is spooling up then just stopping. It actually throws you forward as it stops pulling. Not getting any messages or check engine lights. I'm guessing if I found a place that can pull the Volvo specific codes it would show me something? Any usual suspects I should be looking into? Starting to feel very cynical towards this car. :thumbdown:
 

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I felt the same way towards the end of my first s40 but then again that was my first "nicer" car, it wasn't a 2001 4-banger eclipse, the parts didn't cost pitons on eBay and nobody knows how to work on them.

Now that I'm in my second one I still feel the same but know enough to not complain haha! this car takes patience and knowledge, I've always said volvos attract the kind of people that like to really dig in and learn how stuff works and people that like to tinker.

That being said if you don't have the time and money to not only afford the parts but install them yourself, a Volvo is going to be expensive. But if your willing to get your hands dirty then just remember you have a literal community of knowledge here.

I never had a code kicked for either the FPS or plugs but I think that's because the symptoms weren't consistent so I don't think autozone will tell you much.


"Embody god... Then go crazy"
Our s40 is definitely turning into a hobby lol.. My xc90, I bought it got pennies and put a lot blood and sweat into it, but that's how you save money. At 100 bucks an hour, labor is expensive no matter what brand car you own.

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Could be a bad FPS which would cause a sudden hesitation. Mine did that without a code for a while before finally throwing one.
So these fail on the V50's too? I just replaced my FPS on my 2005 V70R. Same issue in this thread, but wasn't just hard acceleration, but even mild and cruising it would hesitate. It was worse on highway when trying to use cruise control. It would buck.

It went on for about 4 weeks before finally throwing a code. Took me 30 minutes to replace the sensor. Only unique tools I needed were a set of Torx (got a nice socket set for less than $20 on Amazon).

Good luck.


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So these fail on the V50's too? I just replaced my FPS on my 2005 V70R. Same issue in this thread, but wasn't just hard acceleration, but even mild and cruising it would hesitate. It was worse on highway when trying to use cruise control. It would buck.

It went on for about 4 weeks before finally throwing a code. Took me 30 minutes to replace the sensor. Only unique tools I needed were a set of Torx (got a nice socket set for less than $20 on Amazon).

Good luck.


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Yup, sure do! Your symptoms were pretty much spot on with what the V50 did for me.
 

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Just because there's no CEL does not mean there's no codes. If you don't have a code scanner, autozone can run it for free.
FYI this isn't true on California. I talked to my local Autozone and they said it was no longer legal in CA for them to scan cars. He did mention that Jiffy Lube would do a scan as they qualify as a "service center". Typical CA bull**** laws.

You can get an OBD2 Bluetooth/wifi dongle on Amazon for $15 and use an OBD2 scanner app for free (or spend $10 to get more features).


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