Has anyone had problems with their electric fan after the installation of a fmic? I am! 
Electric fan?
baxteR
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Well after the installation on my way home I get a message saying stop engine immediately high engine temp. Fan was not working. Had it towed back to the shop and they called me the next day and told me my fan was not working so they replaced it. Since they replaced it it seems like it works ok at idle but after driving a while it stops working. George hooked up my R to VIDA/DICE and no codes. Now keep in mind my R only has 26,7XX miles on it and I have never had any issues with the electric fan in the 5 year I have owned her until they installed my fmic. Maybe a plug issue?
Your radiator fan does not run constantly, it should shut off while driving unless you are in stop & go traffic or other wise doing a lot of idling. Certainly sounds like they messed something up during the install though.
If I were you I would invest in a scangauge or something similar that will show you your actual water temp, the factory gauge will only move off of center after your car has overheated.
If I were you I would invest in a scangauge or something similar that will show you your actual water temp, the factory gauge will only move off of center after your car has overheated.
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If they didn't disconnect the battery before doing the install, they could have easily shorted out the fan by getting too close to the starter.
As for why the fan runs whacky now, I'm not sure. Sometimes a bad or messed up MAP/IAT sensor will cause the fan to freak out. Check the sensor and be sure its seated properly in the new intercooler piping and maybe pull it out to be sure they didn't f*ck up the rubber seal too.
As for why the fan runs whacky now, I'm not sure. Sometimes a bad or messed up MAP/IAT sensor will cause the fan to freak out. Check the sensor and be sure its seated properly in the new intercooler piping and maybe pull it out to be sure they didn't f*ck up the rubber seal too.
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The fan should last a lot longer than 26k, especially since it doesn't run that much.
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The connection of the MAP/IAT sensor can be tested by reading the sensor using VIDA/DiCE, and by monitoring the boost entering the intake manifold. If the sensor is not seated properly, you will have a massive boost leak. It will be loud and audible.
A brand new fan and module were installed. The new fan was tested to be operating properly by activating it using VIDA/DiCe to each of the 4 pre-set speeds. The fan was also tested and found to be operating automatically, as the ECM detected elevated IAT, coolant or engine oil temperatures.
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^^ Gotcha, well that there means its been checked out, which I didn't know.
Well what about this with my original fan? This pisses me off more than the new fan not working properly. I gave them my R with a perfectly good fan.
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I love him, but Joe is speculating at best. Let me borrow the fan and I'll test for you using VIDA.
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Love you to
True it is speculation since its all I got being 1000's of miles away trying to throw ideas out from behind a computer monitor.
I'm not saying the fan died 100% because of it being mishandled but it is a possibility since the starter is right next to the fan with exposed wires/contacts. Its is very easy to brush up against the starter and fry sh*t.
Also, testing an already fried fan probably won't tell you much.
Has anyone actually fried a fan by touching the starter?
Is ther any chance you can connect the plug backwards if it is trying to push air out through the front it may cook the motor when driving(if it will actually run backwards).
I doubt it is possible to connect it reverse polarity but it's worth a look.
I doubt it is possible to connect it reverse polarity but it's worth a look.
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Ummmm I'm not sure, I just know that when doing mine I could easily see it happening, hence the need to unplug the battery.
Also I think I saw this note in the Bell install manual.
No.
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