The connection of the MAP/IAT sensor can be tested by reading the sensor using VIDA/DiCE, and by monitoring the boost entering the intake manifold. If the sensor is not seated properly, you will have a massive boost leak. It will be loud and audible.If they didn't disconnect the battery before doing the install, they could have easily shorted out the fan by getting too close to the starter.
As for why the fan runs whacky now, I'm not sure. Sometimes a bad or messed up MAP/IAT sensor will cause the fan to freak out. Check the sensor and be sure its seated properly in the new intercooler piping and maybe pull it out to be sure they didn't f*ck up the rubber seal too.
A brand new fan and module were installed. The new fan was tested to be operating properly by activating it using VIDA/DiCe to each of the 4 pre-set speeds. The fan was also tested and found to be operating automatically, as the ECM detected elevated IAT, coolant or engine oil temperatures.The fan should last a lot longer than 26k, especially since it doesn't run that much.
Well what about this with my original fan? This pisses me off more than the new fan not working properly. I gave them my R with a perfectly good fan.If they didn't disconnect the battery before doing the install, they could have easily shorted out the fan by getting too close to the starter.
Love you toI love him, but Joe is speculating at best. Let me borrow the fan and I'll test for you using VIDA.
Ummmm I'm not sure, I just know that when doing mine I could easily see it happening, hence the need to unplug the battery.Has anyone actually fried a fan by touching the starter?
No.Is ther any chance you can connect the plug backwards