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lanikanabo

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm in a bit of a predicament as of late. I bought an S60R a little while back and. Noticed that pretty much all the shocks were bad. As per usual I went with BC coilovers instead of paying for new 4C shocks but because I was working on multiple things on the car I never drove it enough to notice there was an error associated with getting rid of the 4C shocks (Chassis Settings Service Required and no advanced mode)
I read that on the 2005+ you had to basically cut off the solenoid from the old shocks and mount them to the chassis, only I threw out the shocks without realizing I needed them

The only option I can see is buying new shocks just for the dang solenoids or using a diagnostic software to delete the 4C from the CEM itself, which I think would also get rid of advanced mode which defeats the whole purpose.

Tl;dr Is there any other way to get rid of 4C and keep advanced mode without the old shocks or am I just screwed out of my wallet here?
 
I wanna say someone "tried" 4ohm speakers and it worked, I don't know that it ever went beyond a stationary test. You can search for shock solenoids and see if that gets you somewhere.

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I have solenoids cut out from shocks i purchased but never got around to actually doing it. You can try and find someone with old shocks or that will cut some out for you. Or convince me to not keep storing some.

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Discussion starter · #4 ·
I have solenoids cut out from shocks i purchased but never got around to actually doing it. You can try and find someone with old shocks or that will cut some out for you. Or convince me to not keep storing some.

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I did find someone with some on eBay for $10 a pop, he's only got 3 and I need all 4 though so if you wanna set a price for one I'll buy one off ya
 
Just a question, sorry for thread jacking, but does 4C provide inherently better ride quality than the standard suspension did on P2? Like how close is it to air suspension, I'm thinking pretty far, but wanted some more info.
 
I am not sure if any of this will help or not. SUM wiring, SUM signal specs etc. The PDF SUM description explains what each sensor/signal does. What if you remove DEM fuse F24, shut down the SUM. I will post SUM description next. Out of file space to post.

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Could you elaborate on the method for this?
I hooked up my dice unit and scanned my car. All four 4C struts were missing.

I plugged a speaker into one of the front 4C strut plugs.

I fired the car up, the speaker let out a noise and the 4C warning light came on. I scanned the car with VIDA again, and only 3 were reporting as missing.

What @b5v6 said was accurate, it was just a stationary test.

I'm planning on testing it with wirewound resistors, instead of a speaker, this summer. I haven't gotten around to it, because it just doesn't bother me much.
 
I hooked up my dice unit and scanned my car. All four 4C struts were missing.

I plugged a speaker into one of the front 4C strut plugs.

I fired the car up, the speaker let out a noise and the 4C warning light came on. I scanned the car with VIDA again, and only 3 were reporting as missing.

What @b5v6 said was accurate, it was just a stationary test.

I'm planning on testing it with wirewound resistors, instead of a speaker, this summer. I haven't gotten around to it, because it just doesn't bother me much.
I've done similar test with electromagnets, with similar results: it will pass the stationary test, but once the car moves about 100 feet, you get a suspension error. I eventually gave up and just cut up some old shocks. The plugs are different for the front and rear, but the solenoids are not.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Interesting and lame.

I wonder what kind of solenoids they are. I'd rather not cut up all of my old struts.
I found the company that originally makes them, or just happens to make one that looks identical lol. Sadly they do not sell to individuals

 
Can someone explain how to remove the variable solenoid from the strut without it blowing up in my face & blasting me with fluid? "Cutting them out..." sounds a bit too sketchy.

I'm not entirely clear on how the system functions except VIDA notes various voltage ranges depending on the setting selected. Being a 2-wire DC circuit, I will assume that the solenoid position changes with the voltage, setting the internal port passage of the shock hydraulic circuit. How far off of the actual function is this supposition?

I'm guessing that as the voltage biases the solenoid position, simply substituting a fixed resistance would not resolve the SUM error - thus the reason a speaker coil "looks" like a solenoid to the suspension module.

In case you got lost in the weeds of this question:

Can someone explain how to remove the variable solenoid from the strut without it blowing up in my face & blasting me with fluid? "Cutting them out..." sounds a bit too sketchy.
 
I would buy the 4 of them from the guy that offered higher up in the thread.
It is a dirty and PITA job to get those things out...
Rears were easy...fronts sucked badly. I ended up cutting up the entire bottom housing
and leaving the solenoid in there in the front, routed them out of sight in the engine bay
and I'm good to go.
 
Anyone want to set up a small LLC? Then we could all buy them! ;)
I found the company that originally makes them, or just happens to make one that looks identical lol. Sadly they do not sell to individuals

 
No idea. It would be worth a shot. Maybe someone just needs a Tax ID.
Whoa, you just need an LLC? I know a guy. He owns a brewery supply store, not an automotive supply store, but still....
 
Can someone explain how to remove the variable solenoid from the strut without it blowing up in my face & blasting me with fluid? "Cutting them out..." sounds a bit too sketchy.

I'm not entirely clear on how the system functions except VIDA notes various voltage ranges depending on the setting selected. Being a 2-wire DC circuit, I will assume that the solenoid position changes with the voltage, setting the internal port passage of the shock hydraulic circuit. How far off of the actual function is this supposition?

I'm guessing that as the voltage biases the solenoid position, simply substituting a fixed resistance would not resolve the SUM error - thus the reason a speaker coil "looks" like a solenoid to the suspension module.

In case you got lost in the weeds of this question:

Can someone explain how to remove the variable solenoid from the strut without it blowing up in my face & blasting me with fluid? "Cutting them out..." sounds a bit too sketchy.
The ones I've cut out, the strut was already depressurized and worn out, so there wasn't any blowing up or blasting going on. I usually start about 3" from the bottom and make one cut all the way through one side of the strut, then drain the oil. after that, finish the cut all the way around. If your strut still has pressure, you could always drill a hole a few inches from the top to let pressure out without releasing any oil, before cutting the solenoid off.
 
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