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Discussion starter · #42 ·
UGH :(

Initially I thought I had more than enough time, and didn't necessarily need the car for Carlisle. I've changed my mind since then :D I miss the car too much, the Camry's seats absolutely suck and I want my Volvo back!
 
haha i was the same. I bought mine end of jan and started takin apart right away. 3 months later it was a scramble to get it all together to take to florida a week ago. I was NOT taking my 19mpg audi to florida like i did in march
 
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Its a one human power car, is there a conversion to horse power?

Nice work BTW :thumbup:
 
Discussion starter · #45 · (Edited)
Thanks!!

Its a one human power car, is there a conversion to horse power?
With my body, about .0003hp maybe, on a warm day!

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Removed the valves today, lapped the valves and valve seats with valve compound. Valves valves valves. The valve seals from FCP didn't fit. They were too big and wouldn't sit snug on the head. Even the old crusty OEM seals with 145,000mi on them re-installed nice and tight, so I know the new seals were at fault. I ordered orange Elring seals but they sent me green "Meisterstatz" seals instead. Would have had the head done today if it were not for that.

(There was an engine serial# break, engines after 18xxxx got 6mm stem seals, mine is 15xxxx and has the 7mm ones. FCP sent the correct size but the part was just not built to the correct tolerances)
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
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What's this switch do on the back of the headlight switch?

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A/C lines are installed, engine is ready to be bolted up to the transmission and dropped in later this week! I used a Variable Orifice tube for the A/C, I'm curious if it will make the A/C bitter cold @ idle as it claims. Autozone rents out the A/C vacuum pump for free as well, I wasn't aware of this. Unfortunately they don't rent engine hoists for free, which I'll have to dish out $20 for.
 
Discussion starter · #48 · (Edited)
Cleaning every bolt and nut really paid off, the engine looks a million times better than it did before. Though it won't be show quality, it will certainly be worthy of a popped hood at Carlisle I hope. If that stainless heatshield wasn't over $100 from Volvo I think a new one would make the engine bay look perfect.

Painted all of the firewall outlet trim pieces silver:

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Random picture of the HVAC box with the new (old) OEM Volvo Evap reinstalled.

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The P/O didn't use the A/C for years because of a punctured condensor, so the old Evaporator was just fine even though I thought it leaked. Turns out the compressor was bad, and I found metal shavings on the old orifice tube (essentially a filter and pressure regulator).
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
It runs. I'll try to get pictures later. She fired right up, and the only problems I had were a few drips of water from a radiator hose and heater hose...they just needed cinching down once hot. Quite pleased with that.

Once I got driving, there seemed to be an absolutely horrendous vibration transmitting through the firewall. Whenever I apply any small amount of torque to the engine, it sounds like there is a ratchet inside the cowl vibrating at 10,000Hz. I would be very surprised if this was attributed to me filling the subframe mounts with poly, because they're still softer than the Delrin bushings some use without issue.

Maybe my firewall engine mount is toasted? The one ON the engine is brand new, but the little donut mount is original.

I didn't get much time to play last night, and I don't think the ECU relearn is complete, because the car doesn't seem very fast at WOT. Power delivery in the midrange is improved, but maybe it's not hitting full boost yet @ WOT because it's not much better than before.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Also, the new (junkyard) A/C compressor with Volvo evaporator and variable orifice tube fixed my problem of low pressures. The old orifice tube had metal shavings on it, probably due to a toasted compressor.

It only needed two cans of R134A and runs beautiful now! I'm so pleased. Rock solid at ~33psi, no cycling. I added the correct amount of PAG46 oil (6.8oz for a dry system) and vacuumed the system for 45 minutes.
 
Great work! That switch on the back of the light switch is so you can turn the DRLs off. I'm not sure if it works though on 99+ cars. In my head I vaguely remember that's tied into something more than just the switch but give it a try!
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Here we go!

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It's such a big improvement over what the car used to look like.

Most of the vibration from earlier were due to the 14mm subframe plate bolts not being tightened. Something's still wrong though, it sounds like something on the back of the engine is about to fly off.

That, and the car really doesn't seem very quick. :rolleyes: No CEL or any faults, but it's just not pushing me back in the seat much more than the 13t did. Maybe I expected too much?
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Great work! That switch on the back of the light switch is so you can turn the DRLs off. I'm not sure if it works though on 99+ cars. In my head I vaguely remember that's tied into something more than just the switch but give it a try!
Gotcha! Maybe I'll play with the switch a bit later.
 
Gotcha! Maybe I'll play with the switch a bit later.
My 2000's have a small slot to the lower right of the headlight knob that can be turned with a small screwdriver to turn off the DRL's, 99's may be the same.

Engine bay looks great!
 
Discussion starter · #56 · (Edited)
Engine bay looks great!
Thank you!

Time out...does that new center console have a REAR heated seat button?
Maybe ;) That was last Fall's project, it turned out awesome.

I'm trying to load this car up with as many options as possible. So far all that's left in my plans are the elusive antenna down switch, and some R doorpanels! Hoping to find both at the junkyard someday so I don't have to pay out the nose.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Went out and tightened the cap and sprayed the purge solenoid ports with carb cleaner, hope that was it and that I didn't crack the evap tube anywhere. How long will it take before the CEL turns off? If it's another 150 miles, I'll just reset it and hope it never comes back.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Here's the scoop. I somehow forgot this cam cover bolt when I sealed the top end last week. For some reason, oil flows out of this bolt hole when the engine is running. Replacing the bolt slowed the leak, but not entirely. What the hell is going on? Do these bolt holes have oil galleys running through them?

These pictures show me covering the bolt in RTV silicone and reinstalling it. Really hoping this solves it for a long time.

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