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Discussion Starter #121
I tried a voltage regulator on my sedan once, didn't do much. Usually the internals of the alternator are worn. It is possible that it is causing a current draw from the battery due to regulator issues but I have yet to see that personally.

If the alternator was smoking, time to replace the whole shebang lol. Or have it rebuilt, there is a rebuild shop in Mequon.
I'll just suck it up and get a bosch unit, probably form FCP becasue I'll be ordering a MEAN amount of parts to throw at this car to make it roadtrip worthy.
 

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Discussion Starter #122
Speaking of getting the R on the road, the first step is a suspension refresh. What are people running for shocks in sedans these days? I want firmer than stock, something that can handle autocross during the season. I was planning on throwing Koni sports for the front and bilstein touring in the rear of the wagon, but there might be a better combo for the sedans.

I really want to pick up a used set of IPD sways and Eibach springs for the R, but that will come at a later point. Gotta keep scope creep to a minimum for now lol
 

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I would put in a FWD V70R rear sway bar. The IPD rear sway bar is awful. It looks like something I would make in my back yard if I had welding equipment. My dad and I put one in his NAm and it was MISERABLE. Not recommended at all. It does, however, work wonders for the handling. Completely killed the understeer and made it perfectly neutral. I've tried pretty hard to get it to misbehave and it won't. I had it on a twisty dirt road (lots of loose gravel on the top of it) a few weeks back and it was an absolute riot. Thankfully, the FWD V70R sway bar does the exact same thing and installs just as easily as any other Volvo rear sway bar. I wouldn't do anything to the front.

I've spent a fair amount of time in Wisconsin and remember there being a lot of roads with less than optimal surfaces. Get as much handling as you can with the most compliant setup. I would do H&R on Sachs all around. Combine that with the rear sway bar and you'll have an epic street car. We've done that on a number of cars in my local friend group now. I briefly had that setup in my white 850R before I sold it (well actually Bilstein TC in the back because estate but we used Sachs all around when we did this in a C70).....having 3 850s was just too much but I miss having that suspension setup on something in the fleet.

That said, this is a R so it already has an upgraded rear sway bar. I've never driven a R sedan anywhere close to the limit so I can't speak to what it does (sedan and estate came with different rear sway bar) but it will absolutely be noticeably better than your V70 in stock form. I would get it out and see how it drives before you decide what you want to do.
 

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Speaking of getting the R on the road, the first step is a suspension refresh. What are people running for shocks in sedans these days? I want firmer than stock, something that can handle autocross during the season. I was planning on throwing Koni sports for the front and bilstein touring in the rear of the wagon, but there might be a better combo for the sedans.

I really want to pick up a used set of IPD sways and Eibach springs for the R, but that will come at a later point. Gotta keep scope creep to a minimum for now lol
Sounds like you want coilovers. Why? It’ll be cheaper than bilsteins and lowering springs. IPd bars are garbage don’t bother you already have large R spec bars. They make the chassis too stiff and understeer prone I like the neutral you actually want.
 

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Counterpoint - and I think this has come up before with Zoinks - get a 25mm rear bar if you can, (22mm rear if not) with the stock front bar. The IPD bar is absolutely not awful, yes it's a pain to install but once that's done you won't regret it, you can literally feel the difference the first time you take a corner at 15mph. I've had mine for over 3 years

More front bar = more understeer, but less body roll. More rear bar = less understeer, which is what you want for autocross. With stiffer springs or coils, body roll won't be as much of a concern anyways. I think you will regret using any stock P80 Volvo rear bar at autocross. You need the car to rotate, and it doesn't do that stock! F*ck the stock R sway bar, it's useless in comparison to the 25mm

My first autocross with all stock suspension - tons of body roll, no turn-in, understeer city

My second autocross with IPD springs and IPD 25mm rear bar - way less body roll, much better turn-in, still understeers at the limit. If you go with lowering springs, Eibach/H&R >>> IPD
 

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Discussion Starter #126
I would put in a FWD V70R rear sway bar. The IPD rear sway bar is awful. It looks like something I would make in my back yard if I had welding equipment. My dad and I put one in his NAm and it was MISERABLE. Not recommended at all. It does, however, work wonders for the handling. Completely killed the understeer and made it perfectly neutral. I've tried pretty hard to get it to misbehave and it won't. I had it on a twisty dirt road (lots of loose gravel on the top of it) a few weeks back and it was an absolute riot. Thankfully, the FWD V70R sway bar does the exact same thing and installs just as easily as any other Volvo rear sway bar. I wouldn't do anything to the front.
Did you install a 22 mm or 25 mm rear IPD bar on your dad NA? What is the diameter/part number for the V70r rear bar? I only plan on installing a rear bar, and will need to measure the R's rear bar diameter to see how it compares to the 21.8 mm OEM upgrade that Scottish recommended many moons ago, pn: 9191462.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Counterpoint - and I think this has come up before with Zoinks - get a 25mm rear bar if you can, (22mm rear if not) with the stock front bar. The IPD bar is absolutely not awful, yes it's a pain to install but once that's done you won't regret it, you can literally feel the difference the first time you take a corner at 15mph. I've had mine for over 3 years

More front bar = more understeer, but less body roll. More rear bar = less understeer, which is what you want for autocross. With stiffer springs or coils, body roll won't be as much of a concern anyways. I think you will regret using any stock P80 Volvo rear bar at autocross. You need the car to rotate, and it doesn't do that stock! F*ck the stock R sway bar, it's useless in comparison to the 25mm
I have brought it up several times, I'm STILL holding out on a 25 mm rear bar. If I can't get a 25 mm I'll just get the OEM 21.8 mm rear bar for ease of instillation (depending on the R bar's diameter). I've been thinking of getting a cheap IPD bar to cut up and re-weld into a 25 mm or 28 mm rear bar. I've been looking around to see if IPD uses any fancy steel for their bars to make sure I do it right though, once I figure that out I'll get one of the SAE welders on campus to make sure it doesn't break on me and see how that works lol
 

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Discussion Starter #128
I've spent a fair amount of time in Wisconsin and remember there being a lot of roads with less than optimal surfaces. Get as much handling as you can with the most compliant setup. I would do H&R on Sachs all around. Combine that with the rear sway bar and you'll have an epic street car. We've done that on a number of cars in my local friend group now. I briefly had that setup in my white 850R before I sold it (well actually Bilstein TC in the back because estate but we used Sachs all around when we did this in a C70).....having 3 850s was just too much but I miss having that suspension setup on something in the fleet.
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Sounds like you want coilovers. Why? It’ll be cheaper than bilsteins and lowering springs.
If you go with lowering springs, Eibach/H&R >>> IPD
In terms of suspension my big decision is how much money I want to fork over up front, because I would plan on getting BC's from FCP for the warranty to replace when they get too corroded. I'll have to search around for the cost of a suspension refresh in terms of coilovers vs. struts. What is all eliminated when you run coilovers? Would I still need strut mounts? I'd think only rear strut mounts and bump stops, I haven't thought too much into a cost analysis. Sounds like a fun excel project LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Scored a single mass flywheel locally for $80! It'll need a resurface but I'm not too worried about that. Might bring it back to the shop on campus and turn it myself, but a resurface wont be too expensive



My dad scored an alternator at the yard in MN that we'll try to use on the car or use for a core, an NA intake manifold that I'll port and prep for a 960 throttle plate and some other odds and ends. But I ran to my local LKQ to get the remaining things, hood latches (but more importantly the cross over cable to make a new cable from bike lines), RN covers, and a tail light!



I still need to source a genuine R bumper cover, I can't find one anywhere and I cant find anyone willing to ship one. So we'll see how that goes, does anyone have an extra?

I picked up a VIDA laptop from Dave too, scanned the p2 I'm temporarily driving and man this awesome LOL, now I need to figure out VOL-FCR to use on the R!
 

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Get the flywheel professional resurfaced, they have a specific machine designed for it that's better than a lathe, shouldn't cost more than $50
 

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VIDA is super useful for 850s too since the parts catalog, repair instructions, etc. is all in there.

What's this P2 you're driving?
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Get the flywheel professional resurfaced, they have a specific machine designed for it that's better than a lathe, shouldn't cost more than $50
That’ll happen eventually, do you happen to still have that old pedal box you didn’t use from your manual swap? Think I could retrofit the clutch switch from the circular (old?) to square (new?) design?
 

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Discussion Starter #133
VIDA is super useful for 850s too since the parts catalog, repair instructions, etc. is all in there.

What's this P2 you're driving?
VIDA is the shiit, can’t believe it’s taken this long for me to get it. I knew of everything it could do but never experienced it.

I’m driving my sisters 06 s60 na/m until I get the R drivable or pick up another Volvo for winter duty. The VVT is AMAZING, I need to get a Vast tune on the R asap to take advantage of the exhaust VVT on the T9. Besides that I like the shifter feel, a lot shorter throw than the p80, but the clutch engagement on this s60 is terrible. Right on the floor so it’s nearly an on/off clutch. The light output is abysmal compared to my old jewels+LED’s on the v70 but that was to be expected.



I almost bought the facelifted s60 t5m that was for sale in the classifieds, but the seller sold it out from under me. Driving this makes me want to pick up a p2, but I don’t want to compromise on a pre-facelift s60, so we’ll see what happens there lol
 

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VIDA is the shiit, can’t believe it’s taken this long for me to get it. I knew of everything it could do but never experienced it.

I’m driving my sisters 06 s60 na/m until I get the R drivable or pick up another Volvo for winter duty. The VVT is AMAZING, I need to get a Vast tune on the R asap to take advantage of the exhaust VVT on the T9. Besides that I like the shifter feel, a lot shorter throw than the p80, but the clutch engagement on this s60 is terrible. Right on the floor so it’s nearly an on/off clutch. The light output is abysmal compared to my old jewels+LED’s on the v70 but that was to be expected.



I almost bought the facelifted s60 t5m that was for sale in the classifieds, but the seller sold it out from under me. Driving this makes me want to pick up a p2, but I don’t want to compromise on a pre-facelift s60, so we’ll see what happens there lol
Pre-facelift is fine as long as it's not 01-02. Funny you mention shifter feel....Will and I were just discussing tonight the difference in feel between P80 and P2 and wondering why P80 seems to be terrible no matter what you do to it. I'll have a P2 trans, shifter, and cables in my R, so it will be interesting to see what that feels like. Hopefully like a P2 lol.

You can make that car have good lighting......
 

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Pre-facelift is fine as long as it's not 01-02. Funny you mention shifter feel....Will and I were just discussing tonight the difference in feel between P80 and P2 and wondering why P80 seems to be terrible no matter what you do to it. I'll have a P2 trans, shifter, and cables in my R, so it will be interesting to see what that feels like. Hopefully like a P2 lol.

You can make that car have good lighting......
There’s a vin split in 02 that cars after are identical to 03s. Like Larry’s ti t5m
 

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Discussion Starter #136
There’s a vin split in 02 that cars after are identical to 03s. Like Larry’s ti t5m
Details in the VIN split? My dads taking a look at an ‘02 t5m this weekend while I’m at a regatta. I’ll ask for the VIN or manufacturing date or however the difference is determined
 

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Details in the VIN split? My dads taking a look at an ‘02 t5m this weekend while I’m at a regatta. I’ll ask for the VIN or manufacturing date or however the difference is determined
If it has an etm that’s the less desirable side of the split. I don’t have vida at the moment to give you an actual #
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Pre-facelift is fine as long as it's not 01-02. Funny you mention shifter feel....Will and I were just discussing tonight the difference in feel between P80 and P2 and wondering why P80 seems to be terrible no matter what you do to it. I'll have a P2 trans, shifter, and cables in my R, so it will be interesting to see what that feels like. Hopefully like a P2 lol.

You can make that car have good lighting......
My dad had an ‘05 s60 NA/m that he sold earlier this year and I don’t remember it shifting as good as this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
If it has an etm that’s the less desirable side of the split. I don’t have vida at the moment to give you an actual #
This is an ETM, correct?


And this is what we should look for instead of the big box?
 

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