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Discussion Starter #41
Pretty sure I didn’t recommend rack doctor ever.

Get a reman TRW through fcp, that’s the new play.
My bad, I must have misremembered. Good thing I asked, thanks!

Any thoughts on replacing any other part of the system?
 

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My bad, I must have misremembered. Good thing I asked, thanks!

Any thoughts on replacing any other part of the system?
Good idea to have new lines and a steering coupler on hand.
 

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Rack should come with inner tie rods. I would replace the outers while your at it. The coupler can be a real PITA to get free. Someone said it was easier to remove the coupler under the steering wheel at the firewall. Take your time and be very patient threading the supply and return lines. Its very easy to accidently cross thread them. FYI your steering might feel lighter with a reman rack. I went with a reman SMI OEM and mine feels lighter than before. Or its just my paranoid imagination. Its not a fun job but doable.
 

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Rack should come with inner tie rods. I would replace the outers while your at it. The coupler can be a real PITA to get free. Someone said it was easier to remove the coupler under the steering wheel at the firewall. Take your time and be very patient threading the supply and return lines. Its very easy to accidently cross thread them. FYI your steering might feel lighter with a reman rack. I went with a reman SMI OEM and mine feels lighter than before. Or its just my paranoid imagination. Its not a fun job but doable.
Steering should be pretty light. The rack wears and the coupler drags over time.

Can adjust toe to change that feeling too.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Good points, I'll add the coupler to the parts list. Is there a retrofit pair of hardlines that would go with the 05+ reservoir? I assume not because there's no 05+ p80, but my hard line routing did change with the updated reservoir. Gotta make sure to get those 3 orings for the harldines too.

What's the current manufacturer to go with for engine mounts? I searched through the 99 nautic thread and couldn't find the brand.

Rack should come with inner tie rods. I would replace the outers while your at it. The coupler can be a real PITA to get free. Someone said it was easier to remove the coupler under the steering wheel at the firewall. Take your time and be very patient threading the supply and return lines. Its very easy to accidently cross thread them. FYI your steering might feel lighter with a reman rack. I went with a reman SMI OEM and mine feels lighter than before. Or its just my paranoid imagination. Its not a fun job but doable.
Good tips, thank you! I think I have 1 if not both outer tie rods too from awhile ago. I'll have to validate fitment but they're TRW so I bet they'll fit.
 

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Hutchinson/corteco for mounts.

PS lines stay the same, only the suction line changes with the reservoir
 

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Steering should be pretty light. The rack wears and the coupler drags over time.

Can adjust toe to change that feeling too.
Without premature wear on tires ? This April the satellites will go back on the rack and the comets will get new Zlines. I thought the R's had a stiffer rack from the factory ?
 

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Without premature wear on tires ? This April the satellites will go back on the rack and the comets will get new Zlines. I thought the R's had a stiffer rack from the factory ?
R rack is exactly the same.

P80 aren’t stupid special one offs. This is a good thing.

If you want heavier steering go for 0.19 forward toe
 

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10-4 on the toe, will report back on my thread after new Zlines and alignment
 

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Haven’t been much progress on this car besides throwing the easy stage 0 stuff at it. Mainly because graduation/getting a job/getting a house. That was all totally worth it because now both my cars can leak fluids in a covered garage!



I’m now preparing the swap the steering rack on this one with a rack doctor remained unit, I know Scottish recommended that company previously. I previously thought it was just a leaky reservoir, but now with a 05+ reservoir it’s still leaking.

Is there anything else in the power steering system that I should replace because it’s been run dry a couple times now? How badly would the pump suffer from running dry? Total run time was
I plan on dropping the subframe so I want to do delrin bushings and engine mounts, is there anything else I should service while down there?


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WOW big moves there. Congrats on the garage. I'm jealous.

+1 on the TRW reman rack, have one in my 850R and it's held up well for the, uh, two tanks of gas I've put in it LOL. Have two more waiting to go in the T-5R and the NA.

It would be marginally easier to drop the oil pan to refresh the seals/update the pickup without the subframe in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Hutchinson/corteco for mounts.

PS lines stay the same, only the suction line changes with the reservoir
Rad, thanks again. Lines will be $$ but worth it in the long run for sure.

WOW big moves there. Congrats on the garage. I'm jealous.

+1 on the TRW reman rack, have one in my 850R and it's held up well for the, uh, two tanks of gas I've put in it LOL. Have two more waiting to go in the T-5R and the NA.

It would be marginally easier to drop the oil pan to refresh the seals/update the pickup without the subframe in the car.
Thanks! Buying a home was a process, it was worth it though! I was thinking of scope creep items for the rack replacement project too. Funds are low currently because the house, so it will likely stay to the scope of just the PS system for now.

But another question that brings up, in the future if/when I have to drop the subframe again. Are new bolts recommended? I assume so
 

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Yes you should replace the bolts every time. Theyre TTY.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
What’s the recommended jack points when removing the front subframe? The write up I’m following states to support the car right behind the back subframe triangular mount (if that makes sense), but that doesn’t really instill confidence.

Should I put the whole car in the air? If so, where else should I support the car? The OEM jack points..?


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What’s the recommended jack points when removing the front subframe? The write up I’m following states to support the car right behind the back subframe triangular mount (if that makes sense), but that doesn’t really instill confidence.

Should I put the whole car in the air? If so, where else should I support the car? The OEM jack points..?
When I did the brakes on mine recently, I used a floor jack at the official jack points (with rubber protection) one side at a time, and then jack stands at the spot you mentioned and the equivalent in the back. You can find photos online. Stay safe!
 

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You need to support it aft of the subframe. There's no way to drop it otherwise. I jack the front and put a board between the stand and the car. There should be pictures somewhere in the first few pages of my 850R's thread and again last year when I did the RN/M66 swap. Or somewhere around May-June '17 in my T-5R's thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Got it up in the air, I was using hockey pucks on my jack stands but the wooden boards did the trick much better. Man having a garage is sooo nice, but I really need to up the lighting game in there. Even during full sunlight hours it gets dark.



The lower subframe bolts are loosened and lowered, and most everything else is off the subframe. I had to take the steering knuckle off from the inside so I’ll have to mess with that big rubber grommet as well.

Besides breaking 4 T30 bits trying to get the endlinks out things are going great! Lol


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Oh wow that lighting does look pretty dismal. Get some cheap LED shop lights in there. I used to be able to get 4 ft "tubes" at my local hardware store for $5/ea.....so I bought a case and the light my place up great.


Great for polishing out paint, too. Shows EVERYTHING. My red R looks like shiit when it's in there and then I take it outside and it like a new car lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Oh wow that lighting does look pretty dismal. Get some cheap LED shop lights in there. I used to be able to get 4 ft "tubes" at my local hardware store for $5/ea.....so I bought a case and the light my place up great.


Great for polishing out paint, too. Shows EVERYTHING. My red R looks like shiit when it's in there and then I take it outside and it like a new car lol.
That’s the plan, I found some LED strips that a YouTube I follow uses. But they’re $300 so that’s not happening LOL

There’s only 1 15 amp breaker for the garage so I don’t want to overload that, but that likely won’t happen. The limiting factor would really be the gauge of the wiring that I use to hook them all up.

The more pressing house project is insulating my attic, 1 inch of cotton insulation is NOT even close to sufficient lol


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Most of our entire house is run off of two 15A circuits—including part of the shop and my temporary building—and we only trip a breaker a few times a month so I don't think you have anything to worry about having 15A for your garage. Usually only is a problem if I'm trying to use the steam cleaner or heat gun or something or if my mom is trying to use the hair dryer the same time my dad is trying to use the central shop vaccum.

(I'd love to know what the person who wired this place was high on)
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Progress!!




Although the rear motor mount seems to be fused to the steering rack somehow. I can’t get it to come off. Am I missing a bolt down there besides the lower motor mount bolt?


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