[atikovi]

Orange coolant is Dexcool. Just spend a few dollars more for genuine Volvo coolant after flushing out whatever is in there now.

 

[bbrages]

Valvoline recommends G48 for Volvos.

I used Pentofrost NF, similar stuff, also recommended for all Volvos by its manufacturer.

G05 contains nitrites (unlike G48, Pento NF) so IMO not the best choice.

 

[volvo93]

I used Peak European Vehicle. This was what Autozone had for Volvos.

 

[lunalolvo]

My s40 has had G05 in it at least for 50k miles, swapped coolant (again with G05) at 200k. No problems before or after.

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

Theres a version of Zerex that is both HOAT approved and blue, it is almost the same formulation as the OEM stuff. I use it in my 850 and it's great, I get mine from oreily's. A little more expensive, but worth it for the confidence in the product.

 

[beachnut]

Yes, Zerex's G-48 is the blue one. Unfortunately for our P1 cars the big box auto part stores make things confusing when it comes to Zerex G-05 vs G-48. For example, on my 2005 S40 T5 the O'Reilly website says the G-05 doesn't fit my car, but the G-48 does. The AutoZone website also states the G-05 doesn't fit my car, however, the Advance Auto Parts website states that G-05 is an exact fit for my car, so as you can see it's confusing, but perhaps why at least two companies state G-05 does not fit is because of the nitrites as mentioned a few times in this thread.

When I bought my car 4 years ago it had 'yellow' coolant in the reservoir. It could've been Prestone or Peak, who knows, but I have used G-05 a couple times to top it off without consequence, but YMMV. Right now I'm dealing with a slow leaking upper radiator hose and once I replace it I'll be using G-48.

 

[LloydDobler]

The kicker is whether or not you change it. I've run Zerex G-05 in my 04 C70 for 12 years and 60k miles, changed it once (It's due for the second change) and have had zero issues. I also run it in my V50 and V70R. I ran generic prestone green in my 01 V70 for 8 years and over 100k miles with zero problems. Changed it twice during that time due to other part changes like hoses and water pump.

You will not hurt your car running the "wrong" coolant, unless you run it for 10 years without changing it. Use Volvo blue if you want to have 100% confidence, but in my experience, age of coolant is a bigger problem than type of coolant.

 

[steve909]

I have a 2005 S40 T5, 187k mi, that is in fantastic shape.

From IPDusa.com I just received my order of Volvo antifreeze. I notice the label says it is "new", as in a new formulation. The gallon jug label is different in design than the Volvo antifreeze I've always used to partially drain and then top off with the "old" Volvo antifreeze (it was blue in color). I do this rather than a complete flush & refill every so often - just get a little fresh stuff in there each year.

Since this new product says "do not mix with other coolants", my question is can I mix it with Volvo's "old" antifreeze? The makeup of the old stuff is listed on the label, but not for the new stuff. If I cannot mix them I'll have to somehow flush the engine of all the existing coolant, which I don't want to do, esp. since I cannot see an engine coolant drain plug, only the radiator's drain valve. (As an aside, can anyone confirm that there is or isn't a block drain?)

There is some good information in this thread (thank you pczeilon, and others) but I still don't know what is or isn't compatible. I hate to call my dealer since their mechanic will tell me any old BS he thinks will send me away.

So, anyone know the implications of mixing the older and new Volvo antifreeze's?

Thanks, and this forum has been very good to me Couldn't have changed the timing belt w/o it, nor the struts, and other items,

Steve

PS: I just noticed a nice write up in another thread (and it has been added to "sticky") on coolant system drain and refill. Apparently there is not block drain plug, just gotta use the radiator valve and run a lot of water through it while running the engine; it's doable.

 

[tmtalpey]

If it says to not mix the coolant, then don't.

There is no block drain but by disconnecting one side of the oil cooler you can get most everything out of the block. The radiator drain is plastic and if it has never been loosened, it may crack. Replacement is just a few dollars if that happens. The heater core is the hardest to drain, often best to simply stick a hose on something and let it flow.

Generally speaking, you'll never get the system fully drained, so you can then add the 50/50 coolant. Plan on having a bunch of water in it after flush/drain, and adding the proper amount of straight coolant followed by the remaining water.

To properly bleed a fully drained cooling system takes either a vacuum unit, or patience. It can be done either way. There are threads here.

 

[steve909]

Thanks for the reply tmtalpey. You've been helpful on this forum since I bought my car in '05! Thank you.
I saw the nicely written sticky describing a coolant flush w/o a block drain plug so I'll do it that way, using a lot of water, but this is fine. I've done it on other vehicles.
And unless someone is knowledgeable on the different antifreeze formulations and their likely interactions I'll plan to do as you suggest, and do a system flush before using the newer formulation.
Have a nice day!

 

[straight6pwr]

its nice to read others sharing my opinion that hemming and hawing over coolant types is really unimportant compared to just properly maintaining the system and regular changing.
i've ran everything from 90%/10% water/coolant to cheap Autozone no-name to OEM type stuff and have never noticed a difference in any scenario. (hundreds of thousands of miles, multiple vehicles with very high mileage)

i'd venture a guess that 'do not mix with other coolant' labels on bottles is message designed to cover their ass and/or imply that their fluid is somehow better/magical, than actually a warning because it will harm your engine.

 

[tmtalpey]

Well ok but under no circumstances should you put antifreeze containing any type of phosphorus in the engine. It will react with the aluminum block and radiator with damaging results.

Personally I put the factory blue Pentosin in mine and stopped thinking about it. It'll last a decade IMO.

 

[straight6pwr]

Well ok but under no circumstances should you put antifreeze containing any type of phosphorus in the engine. It will react with the aluminum block and radiator with damaging results.

Where do you learn this? Phosphates in coolant protect both aluminum and iron. yes, it can react with tap water and cause a problem, but not on its own or when mixed properly with distilled water.

I agree that the new OEM fluid will last longer, but its kind of a moot point. Do cars go 100,000+ miles without the coolant having to be drained for system or other repairs? Not likely.

The inconvenience of OEM fluids vastly outweighs the benefits. The manufacturer's marketing and service departments would sure like you to believe differently, though.

 

[tmtalpey]

It's a Volvo recommendation since the introduction of the whiteblock engines. If something else works for you, great!

 

[avenger09123]

Well ok but under no circumstances should you put antifreeze containing any type of phosphorus in the engine. It will react with the aluminum block and radiator with damaging results.

Personally I put the factory blue Pentosin in mine and stopped thinking about it. It'll last a decade IMO.

Where do you learn this? Phosphates in coolant protect both aluminum and iron. yes, it can react with tap water and cause a problem, but not on its own or when mixed properly with distilled water.

I agree that the new OEM fluid will last longer, but its kind of a moot point. Do cars go 100,000+ miles without the coolant having to be drained for system or other repairs? Not likely.

The inconvenience of OEM fluids vastly outweighs the benefits. The manufacturer's marketing and service departments would sure like you to believe differently, though.

According to this here it is essentially what you both were talking about before - the mixing of phosphates from IAT with an (H)OAT causes issues.