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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've posted about how my headlights seem to vibrate over road irregularities before. One day I decided to investigate and got out of my car at night with the headlights on, shining against my garage door. To my surprise, there was substantial "play" in the headlamp assembly. I could duplicate the appearence of the vibration by shaking the headlamp assembly. I recently asked my wife to drive in front of me and tell me if she noticed anything, and she said that my headlights looked like "a motorcycle going over bumps"... I've removed the pins and even tried to bend the clips out more to hold the lamp more tightly and reinstalled. However the clips seem to hold the lamps from forward/rear play, not up/down play. It's much more pronounced in the left than right.

My parents bought a 2012 Acura TL last week, which I tried the same thing. On that car, there is no play in the headlamp assemblies.

I'm really at a loss. It is extremely unpleseant to drive in the dark with this.

Can someone else with Xenons do the same test I did? Shine the lights against a wall and shake the assembly?

Thanks.
 

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Common problem, I've been told it's within tolerances. Not as bad on my Euro lights but still noticeable. Doesn't bother me anymore and there's no real fix for it because, as you've already noticed, the pins don't affect the up/down shock absorption. If it bothers you that much, you could try putting rubber or foam weather stripping around the light to make it more snug in its place.
 

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There is no play in mine or my brother's S60RD, nor does my parent's XC60RD have any play.
 

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The problems you are describing are related to ABL (Active Bending Light) xenon projectors, and not the non-projector

You have adjusters that control the up/down and left/right adjustment. I found the ABL lights on my XC70 were broken at the adjustment points.
(I think I tried to force them beyond the stops)

I used zip ties inside the assembly to apply tension/pressure but this was a half-assed solution. I ended up replacing the lights from a contact I had in Holland, with the E-code ABL xenons.

Are your lights from the factory with ABL, or did you retrofit? Check the inside of your assemblies to see if any of the mounting points inside are broken? Or if the ABL servos are out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The problems you are describing are related to ABL (Active Bending Light) xenon projectors, and not the non-projector

You have adjusters that control the up/down and left/right adjustment. I found the ABL lights on my XC70 were broken at the adjustment points.
(I think I tried to force them beyond the stops)

I used zip ties inside the assembly to apply tension/pressure but this was a half-assed solution. I ended up replacing the lights from a contact I had in Holland, with the E-code ABL xenons.

Are your lights from the factory with ABL, or did you retrofit? Check the inside of your assemblies to see if any of the mounting points inside are broken? Or if the ABL servos are out.
This has nothing to do with ABL. It's the ENTIRE LAMP assembly held in place by the pins. If there are ABL issues those would be incremental to the issue I describe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Common problem, I've been told it's within tolerances. Not as bad on my Euro lights but still noticeable. Doesn't bother me anymore and there's no real fix for it because, as you've already noticed, the pins don't affect the up/down shock absorption. If it bothers you that much, you could try putting rubber or foam weather stripping around the light to make it more snug in its place.
This is what happenes when spec tolerances of multiple components are too wide and then "stacked". Completely unacceptable in a $48k car.
 

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This has nothing to do with ABL. It's the ENTIRE LAMP assembly held in place by the pins. If there are ABL issues those would be incremental to the issue I describe.
Are those pins broken? Or is their simply movement in the assembly? Do you have a P2 R, or do you have 2003-2004 non-projector HID lights?
Any options to use foam rubber, or zip ties to tighten it down?
 

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Are those pins broken? Or is their simply movement in the assembly? Do you have a P2 R, or do you have 2003-2004 non-projector HID lights?
Any options to use foam rubber, or zip ties to tighten it down?
Pardon, your 'handle' indicates you have a Y2 or P3 S60. Any options internally to tighten the projectors down?
 

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No play here senor. You best call the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are those pins broken? Or is their simply movement in the assembly? Do you have a P2 R, or do you have 2003-2004 non-projector HID lights?
Any options to use foam rubber, or zip ties to tighten it down?
don't think the pins are broken. mine's a 2012 rd.
 

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My 2011 S60 T6 build date 10/10 with ABL does the same thing and it is noticeable at night. I have not
tried your shake test. (I do keep ABL off but I doubt that is related or would help one way or the other.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My 2011 S60 T6 build date 10/10 with ABL does the same thing and it is noticeable at night. I have not
tried your shake test. (I do keep ABL off but I doubt that is related or would help one way or the other.)
turning off abl was the first thing i tried...no difference...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
The fact that some have it and some don't suggests to me that the spec tolerance of multiple components is too wide and becomes an issue when stacked.

This is what happenes when different engineering teams design portions of a product (headlamp assy, mounting points as partof another assy designed by another team, pins, etc) without adequate integration testing at the back end to ensure the end result meets the desired outcome (I'm sure Volvo didn't say - "wow, let's have vibrating headlights")
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I played around with this over lunch.

I can see the headlamp assy moving against the pins. So either the pins are too small or not enough tension on the clips, or the mounting holes in the headlamp asseumbly are too large.
 

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My headlamp assemblies are very snug, not easily moved by hand. If yours are loose there is probably something wrong, mostly likely, something missing like a rubber grommet. I serioulsy doubt its a cumulative tolerance error.
 

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mine are tight.
 
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