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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all from US MD State. My 1st time posting. I have 2004 XC90 T-6 turbo. Trying to replace the timing belt. I need to learn step by step easy way.
I was trying to take the crank nut off to remove the pulley to move both belts. This thing will not come off no matter how hard I try. I did not try heat on the nut I was a little chicken to do this around the motor. The timing belt was suppose to been change 2 years ago by local shop at a 110.000 miles. I have 154.000 on the this old belt you can see how crackup it is. I been turning the nut counter clock wise. "O" is there a way to remove the alternator belt and the timing belt with out re-moving the crack pulley - slip it over the pulley some how. Also broke off the little plastic angle black tube on the stat housing, have any 1 tried to repair this. I was told to pull the cover straight up and out. Tools I used to try to get the nut off. 1/2, 3/4, breaker bar, A dewalt DW-290 electric impact 1/2 and a dewalt 1/2 battery type impact gun. Man my back and arms hurting trying to play with this a few days.
 

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You have the 6 cylinder engine not the 2.5T. Before you get the t-belt off, put the engine back on TDC. Remove the top turbo tubes and end cover over the CVVT's. Put a paint mark on the inside of both cam gear tooth and the head. The cams can turn 4 teeth when removing the t-belt or if you bump the CVVT cam gears. This will help in setting the cam gear back to TDC when installing the T-belt if they move. The 1/2" electric gun should remove it. Use an impact socket not a chrome socket. Let it hammer, it will come off. After getting the nut off, I use a long pry bar to pry the pulley off.
The t-stat nipple breaks on all of the t-stats. We always replace the t-stat when doing the t-belt.
Drill a 1" hole in the cover where the nipple sticks out or you will break off the new nipple. It will all fit back together.
Get a new metal gasket for the t-stat.


Below is the belt tensioner release. It is a 55 or 60 Torx hole.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You have the 6 cylinder engine not the 2.5T. Before you get the t-belt off, put the engine back on TDC. Remove the top turbo tubes and end cover over the CVVT's. Put a paint mark on the inside of both cam gear tooth and the head. The cams can turn 4 teeth when removing the t-belt or if you bump the CVVT cam gears. This will help in setting the cam gear back to TDC when installing the T-belt if they move. The 1/2" electric gun should remove it. Use an impact socket not a chrome socket. Let it hammer, it will come off. After getting the nut off, I use a long pry bar to pry the pulley off.
The t-stat nipple breaks on all of the t-stats. We always replace the t-stat when doing the t-belt.
Drill a 1" hole in the cover where the nipple sticks out or you will break off the new nipple. It will all fit back together.
Get a new metal gasket for the t-stat.


Below is the belt tensioner release. It is a 55 or 60 Torx hole.
View attachment 172974
I will line up the timing make with white paint tomorrow thanks
The shop who work on it last just about 2 years ago this timing belt should have been change I got charge for this. Man you can't trust some people.
Thanks yes T-6 just plain tired my brain fried. The nut will not come off we even tried the 2 breaker bars 1/2 and 3/4 nut size.
The alternator belts is off just can't get it around the crank pulley. Can both the timing belt and the alternator be slip around crank pulley with out taking it off.
Like to get the crank nut loose if I can then work on the rest. The 2 other bolts are kinda tight in the crankshaft. The brace works well holding the pulley
from turning.

Pictures below what I have tried using. 3 days trying to remove this 30mm nut. I let it soak in wd-40 still would not come off with 3/4 breaker bar.

Automotive tire Road surface Motor vehicle Asphalt Bumper



Pneumatic tool Drill Handheld power drill Hammer drill Tool
 

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I hope you haven't moved the crankshaft since you removed the belt from the cams.

WD40 won't help. It's torque that's keeping it on, not corrosion or lack of lubrication. (Did they use red loctite on it? If so, heat is the only way to get it off.)

How much torque can those electric guns make? A decent air tool will make upwards of 600 ft-lbs.

Last resort - cut the nut with a chisel and get a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I hope you haven't moved the crankshaft since you removed the belt from the cams.

WD40 won't help. It's torque that's keeping it on, not corrosion or lack of lubrication. (Did they use red loctite on it? If so, heat is the only way to get it off.)

How much torque can those electric guns make? A decent air tool will make upwards of 600 ft-lbs.

Last resort - cut the nut with a chisel and get a new one.
I may have to try to cut the nut off.

I have 3/4" x 45" long breaker bar bending trying to get this nut off. I never had this problem before.
The timing belt is still on only the alternator belt is off. Do really have to pull the crank pulley to get the timing belt over the crank pulley.
 

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I've had to letter hammer awhile but never had one I couldn't get of with a 1/2" CP 734.
If someone put it on with an air impact that may be what it takes to get it loose.

You can get the t-belt over the crank pulley hub on a 5 cyl if you take the lower plastic cover off that's under it but never tried it on a T6. Worth a shot.

You can get the upper cover off and back on without breaking the nipple if you take two bolts out of the lower engine mount first and jack the engine up an inch or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've had to letter hammer awhile but never had one I couldn't get of with a 1/2" CP 734.
If someone put it on with an air impact that may be what it takes to get it loose.

You can get the t-belt over the crank pulley hub on a 5 cyl if you take the lower plastic cover off that's under it but never tried it on a T6. Worth a shot.

You can get the upper cover off and back on without breaking the nipple if you take two bolts out of the lower engine mount first and jack the engine up an inch or two.
Sorry vista88 I have the T6 turbo 6 cylinder. Just kinda burnt out from trying get this nut off.
 

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Where are you located? I am in Maryland and my experience with the 2.5t, which the 2.9t is based off of, I needed to use an impact wrench. However, I have normally just slipped the belt off for the 2.5t and I understand the 2.9t is a longer engine.

You are using an impact driver (for screws) and breaker bars. The only way I got the crank nut off was using an impact wrench. Don’t go cutting the bolt as you won’t be able to get the threads out. Don’t use a fork when a knife is needed. Can any of you purchase a 1/2in impact wrench and impact sockets?

edit: finally noticed you have impact wrenches, but are you using impact sockets? Pics were delayed in loading for me. You could try to raise that side of the engine a little if it gives you more space as mentioned earlier to slip the timing belt off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You have the 6 cylinder engine not the 2.5T. Before you get the t-belt off, put the engine back on TDC. Remove the top turbo tubes and end cover over the CVVT's. Put a paint mark on the inside of both cam gear tooth and the head. The cams can turn 4 teeth when removing the t-belt or if you bump the CVVT cam gears. This will help in setting the cam gear back to TDC when installing the T-belt if they move. The 1/2" electric gun should remove it. Use an impact socket not a chrome socket. Let it hammer, it will come off. After getting the nut off, I use a long pry bar to pry the pulley off.
The t-stat nipple breaks on all of the t-stats. We always replace the t-stat when doing the t-belt.
Drill a 1" hole in the cover where the nipple sticks out or you will break off the new nipple. It will all fit back together.
Get a new metal gasket for the t-stat.


Below is the belt tensioner release. It is a 55 or 60 Torx hole.
View attachment 172974
Thanks vologod type the wrong info in, I tried to change it, just freaken piss I can't get this off. I went back outside this morning around 2:30 am used a heat gun got the nut hot and it still would not come off.
3/4 x 45" breaker bar still would not pull it off. I never went through this using 45" long breaker bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Where are you located? I am in Maryland and my experience with the 2.5t, which the 2.9t is based off of, I needed to use an impact wrench. However, I have normally just slipped the belt off for the 2.5t and I understand the 2.9t is a longer engine.

You are using an impact driver (for screws) and breaker bars. The only way I got the crank nut off was using an impact wrench. Don’t go cutting the bolt as you won’t be able to get the threads out. Don’t use a fork when a knife is needed. Can any of you purchase a 1/2in impact wrench and impact sockets?

edit: finally noticed you have impact wrenches, but are you using impact sockets? Pics were delayed in loading for me. You could try to raise that side of the engine a little if it gives you more space as mentioned earlier to slip the timing belt off.
in upper marlboro MD. I may try lifting the motor a little.
 

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Cut it. Before you break something.

I'd ask if you're turning it the right way, but, from the photo showing the stop for the crank it looks like you are. It's not reverse thread, I assume...
 

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There are specific crank and harmonic balancer impact sockets where the socket wall is about twice the thickness. These are very good at transferring the energy and is a must when removing crank bolts. The force difference is really big.

IIRC, the 2.5t crank bolt is 30mm or 27mm. The unfortunate thing is I can only find 27mm crank/harmonic impact sockets on Amazon. Maybe you can find the size you need for your engine.

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And just to double check, you are using impact sockets on an impact wrench?

You lose a lot of impact force using a chrome socket on an impact wrench. Also, a heat gun will not get the bolt hot enough to where it heats up the threads. You need to use a torch from Home Depot and it may start to smell. It has to be focused heat on the bolt so it doesn’t get the pulley too hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
And just to double check, you are using impact sockets on an impact wrench?

You lose a lot of impact force using a chrome socket on an impact wrench. Also, a heat gun will not get the bolt hot enough to where it heats up the threads. You need to use a torch from Home Depot and it may start to smell. It has to be focused heat on the bolt so it doesn’t get the pulley too hot.
Thanks for trying this has been nightmare 6 days now trying to get this off. I little chicken to use a torch that closeup on the motor. 3 different air impact guns, 2 battery impact, 1 electric gun impact, 3/4 - 1/2 breaker bars and still would not come off.

I came across this picture thread here. This guy went through hell trying to do the some thing.
 

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some of your process is wrong and you dont seem to be listening or answering people's questions about your tools. sorry for the tough love.

1. WD-40 is not a penetrant that works for stuck fasteners.
Solution: Get a real penetrant like PB blaster or Liquid Wrench. Stop using WD40 for stuck bolts in the future as well, youre wasting your money.

2. You havent proven that the impact guns you are using are actually any good.
Saying 150 PSI doesnt tell us how good the air gun setup is. Compressor tank size, hose size, CFMs and the gun specs are more important. My tiny 1.5 gal pancake air compressor does 150psi but it cannot create torque with an impact gun.
That ancient 18v nicad battery dewalt has less torque than your grandma.
That 120v dewalt corded impact isnt much better, only rated to 350ft lbs, which is still not enough.

Solution: You need a modern high torque gun with 1000ft lbs +. If you cant borrow one, buy one. Use it once, sell it and consider it a rental cost. I have done this in the past twice and usually lose about $40 on the process. Worth it considering the headache it saves. Make sure when you run the gun you run for 15+ seconds. Most guns do not make max torque until that time.

3. Use heat. Doesnt have to be a lot, but a little helps. I've seen the difference of room temperature (70deg) vs a cold winter night (20deg) make an axle shrink enough to let a wheel bearing slide on without tools!
Solution: Stop being afraid, just be smart. Apply around the shoulders of the nut in small increments. Try to avoid the threaded crank in the middle. The pulley directly behind the nut is steel and can take the heat. Applying heat and letting it cool several times throughout the day can help as well. The metal is expanding and contracting and can help break the bond of the rust.

3. Any extensions or adapters you use on breaker bars or impact guns is causing you to lose torque. I see some in your pictures. Its not always possible to omit them, but omit them if you can. For example, if you are using a 1/2" socket, using an adapter with 3/4" breaker bar is creating less torque than using the 1/2 break bar, assuming no other extensions are used. If you apply so much force you break something from the 1/2" setup, you need all 3/4" stuff. Socket, extensions, breaker bar. I'd be impressed if you can apply that much force.

Solutions: Omit extensions if possible. Use a cheater bar instead of the 3/4" breaker if you are using an adapter. Try and find a better position for the breaker bar that uses less extensions.

i know not all crank bolts are created equal, but my 18v Milwaukee mid-torque with 600ft lbs took off my v50 2.5t crank bolt in like 0.2 seconds. you have more rust than I did which is why i believe you need the 1000+ftlb gun.

If all this fails, yes, cutting off the nut would be possible. Seems to be plenty of room for a dremel tool with cut off wheel to get a nice slice in the nut and then strike with a cold chisel, as someone else stated. just dont destroy those crank threads. a little damage wont be the end of the world, but be careful.

EDIT: you should order a new crank nut now, if you havent already. under no circumstance should you reuse this one.

I live in Wisconsin and have had to deal with every kind of stuck fastener imaginable.
 

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Seems to be plenty of room for a dremel tool with cut off wheel to get a nice slide in the nut.
Just get a chisel and drive it into the center of one of the flats of the nut. Slowly angle the chisel slightly clockwise until you are driving at a slight angle in the CCW direction. The chisel will start to expand the ID of the nut and the CCW bias will break the nut loose. Just be careful not to get down to the threads on the crank. As you get closer to the threads, increase the CCW bias.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
some of your process is wrong and you dont seem to be listening or answering people's questions about your tools. sorry for the tough love.

1. WD-40 is not a penetrant that works for stuck fasteners.
Solution: Get a real penetrant like PB blaster or Liquid Wrench. Stop using WD40 for stuck bolts in the future as well, youre wasting your money.

2. You havent proven that the impact guns you are using are actually any good.
Saying 150 PSI doesnt tell us how good the air gun setup is. Compressor tank size, hose size, CFMs and the gun specs are more important. My tiny 1.5 gal pancake air compressor does 150psi but it cannot create torque with an impact gun.
That ancient 18v nicad battery dewalt has less torque than your grandma.
That 120v dewalt corded impact isnt much better, only rated to 350ft lbs, which is still not enough.

Solution: You need a modern high torque gun with 1000ft lbs +. If you cant borrow one, buy one. Use it once, sell it and consider it a rental cost. I have done this in the past twice and usually lose about $40 on the process. Worth it considering the headache it saves. Make sure when you run the gun you run for 15+ seconds. Most guns do not make max torque until that time.

3. Use heat. Doesnt have to be a lot, but a little helps. I've seen the difference of room temperature (70deg) vs a cold winter night (20deg) make an axle shrink enough to let a wheel bearing slide on without tools!
Solution: Stop being afraid, just be smart. Apply around the shoulders of the nut in small increments. Try to avoid the threaded crank in the middle. The pulley directly behind the nut is steel and can take the heat.

3. Any extensions or adapters you use on breaker bars or impact guns is causing you to lose torque. I see some in your pictures. Its not always possible to omit them, but omit them if you can. For example, if you are using a 1/2" socket, using an adapter with 3/4" breaker bar is creating less torque than using the 1/2 break bar, assuming no other extensions are used. If you apply so much force you break something from the 1/2" setup, you need all 3/4" stuff. Socket, extensions, breaker bar. I'd be impressed if you can apply that much force.

Solutions: Omit extensions if possible. Use a cheater bar instead of the 3/4" breaker if you are using an adapter. Try and find a better position for the breaker bar that uses less extensions.

i know not all crank bolts are created equal, but my 18v Milwaukee mid-torque with 600ft lbs took off my v50 2.5t crank bolt in like 0.2 seconds. you have more rust than I did which is why i believe you need the 1000+ftlb gun.

If all this fails, yes, cutting off the nut would be possible. Seems to be plenty of room for a dremel tool with cut off wheel to get a nice slide in the nut.

I live in Wisconsin and have had to deal with every kind of stuck fastener imaginable.

The impact guns 2 was mine. The rest from fiends that I don't have any more.
 
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