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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Guys,
i have a xc40 r design.
I recently upgraded my oem sound system by installing an amplifier after the OEM module.
I only used 4 of the 6 output channels from the original amplifier, leaving the other wires cut. The dealer kindly gave me the oem amplifier wiring diagram (do you need it here??).
After about a week the message "volvo on call - service required" appears on the dashboard ... I read here on the forum that it is a frequent problem that depends on a battery to be replaced; could it be related to the audio system modification I made?? the volvo on call no longer works.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE ANSWERS

Filippo
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello, thanks for the reply
PROBLEM SOLVED !!!!
In the dashboard, next to the center speaker there is another smaller speaker. It is the speaker reserved for the volvo on call.
I reconnected this and then turned on the car remotely via the app and the warning light disappeared. (if you start the eingine with the button the problem does not solve, you need to use the volvo app).
The problem was not due to the change in the sound system but to the disconnection of this separate speaker.
Hope it will be useful for someone in the future
THANKS
 

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2021 xc40 T5 Mom
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Hello Guys,
i have a xc40 r design.
I recently upgraded my oem sound system by installing an amplifier after the OEM module.
I only used 4 of the 6 output channels from the original amplifier, leaving the other wires cut. The dealer kindly gave me the oem amplifier wiring diagram (do you need it here??).
After about a week the message "volvo on call - service required" appears on the dashboard ... I read here on the forum that it is a frequent problem that depends on a battery to be replaced; could it be related to the audio system modification I made?? the volvo on call no longer works.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE ANSWERS

Filippo
Hello Filipino,
Do you still have the OEM amplifier wiring diagram you could share? Looking to add amp/sub to the system as well.

Much Appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello Filipino,
Do you still have the OEM amplifier wiring diagram you could share? Looking to add amp/sub to the system as well.

Much Appreciated!
HELLO, HERE IS THE DIAGRAM.
I advice also to look the wire color from the oem amplificer to each speaker because are the same... if you need to know what wires are, simply disassembly the door and look the wire color of the speaker.
Inside the dashboard there are 2 speaker:the bigger is from the sound system (you can change it), but the small one is from the volvo on call service and DON'T DISCONNECT IT !!!
Under the driver's seat there is a fuse box, its a good place where take +12v power.
if you have "standard" audio system i think the oem amplifier "cut" the frequencies for each channel... this means you have not bass in the spaker line. i added a subwoofer wired to the "air woofer" original wires (its a 4 wire woofer, 2 couple).
if you need oyher informations feel free to ask me
Good work

Filippo
 

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[

Thanks for the quick upload. Based on what I saw on the diagram I can probably pull the 12v/ground right from the factory amp. In the past I've run the run speaker wire through an RCA adapter to get to the sub amp but prob time to upgrade the sub amp as well...!

Might not get to it until a week or so anyway...

Thanks Again.

117527
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ATTENTION: the diagram i posted is for the "volvo standard premium sound system" and NOT for the harman/kardon upgrade. i think should be the same, but you will have more wires because of more speakers... simply follow the wire colors of your speakers.
You have the harman/kardon system, much better than what i had in my xc40. If you plan to add another amplifier i think is better if you take the +12v NOT from the original oem amp. wire because you may rick to damage the car system (or of course brake the fuse).
The original harman/kardon amplifier is impossible to replace because of the optical line in from the sensus connect. so you need to connect original harman/kardon output wires to the inputs of your new amplifier. I think in your configuration you should haveone "air woofer" in the front right part of the car and another "air subwoofer" in the rear left side. if you plan to add another subwoofer you need to use the air subwoofer wires.
 

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Sounds good. I wasn’t totally sure but could definitely go direct to the battery. I just need the signal from the speaker wire and have used splice connectors several time with no issues for the signals there. I’ll check with a dealer this week and see if they have the upgraded wiring detail to confirm. If so, I can post it back here for reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
take the +12v from the fuse box under the driver seat, is the best option. if you take from the battery you need to install a cable from the front part of the car and pass-throught the dashboard which is not simple. The best option is looking the wire color from each car's door.
eventually you can use a "master relay" to cut off the power when the car is powered off in order not to discharge the battery. i placed a 12v 100ampere relay that cut the 12v when the motor is powered off. To activate the relay I used the 12v of the cigarette lighter socket in the trunk of the car, which turn off automatically after the car is locked.
 

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Correct. On my past three vehicles I've gone directly from the battery and had a remote line in to the amp to power off when the car was turned off, but could try an alternate method once I take a look at the speaker wires.
For the relay would a circuit like the one below work to from the the outlet in the trunk to the amp?
This should use the 12v (battery image) of the lighter socket to power the relay when unlocked and/or powered on then start the amp (device)...in line fuse from lighter wire to to relay, ground directly to ground. Ideally I would like to not have another "switch" to power on the relay if that's possible.

Below this image is the RCA convert (also requires power - current runs off the amp 12v and ground) - housing the speaker wires and converting to rca for amp signal.

Any input would be great as I don't want to mess with the main console system.

Thanks!

117581


117582
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi,
in the previous car I used the relay built into the amplifier. it worked 2 years and then it didn't open the circuit well and the amplifier stayed on .... dead battery. If it happens to you in winter 300km from home ...... not good =).
In the image of your relay I don't understand why pins 86 and 30 are connected together, it would be like not putting the relay at all. (I attach the diagram of the one I use, you can also find it on amazon: "relay car 100a" if 100 are enough for you).
As "trigger source" it uses the + 12v of the lighter wire in the trunk, it is excellent because it turns off only when you block the car allowing you to be able to listen to music even after you have turned off the engine. (use a tester to find the positive because colors are easily confused).
Very nice rca converter, I had never seen it; I have used amplifiers that accept input directly from the speaker line. But I think with your system you would have no "bump effect" problem when you turn it on and off. I will also look for one for me.
(sorry for my english, i'm italian)

117591
 

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Cool thanks makes sense! The only other relay i put in previously was a bypass relay for an 06 VW for an in dash DVD player/stereo to bypass the parking brake release. I’ll see if there’s any other info available and document. Talk soon.
 

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As "trigger source" it uses the + 12v of the lighter wire in the trunk, it is excellent because it turns off only when you block the car allowing you to be able to listen to music even after you have turned off the engine. (use a tester to find the positive because colors are easily confused).

View attachment 117591
Do you recall which fuse you used in the interior fuse box to go to pin (30) for the main 12v? Amp ratings below, just curious as metioned I've always gone direct from the battery, just worried about overloading the fuse in the box.

117601
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Do you recall which fuse you used in the interior fuse box to go to pin (30) for the main 12v? Amp ratings below, just curious as metioned I've always gone direct from the battery, just worried about overloading the fuse in the box.

View attachment 117601
Take the 12v from the main screw. It arrives directly from the battery (there's a fuse but is big enough). Of course add a proper fuse for your amp. If you manage to use a lot of Ampere (100 or more) is better if you take it directly from battery. But for a "normal" amplifier this solution is much easier because you have the wire inside the car. Is difficult to pass throught the dashboard.
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That's awesome! Going to save some time for sure. Thank you for the pic.
The RCA converter has a remote power out to trigger the amp on once it detects the speaker signal so I will not need the relay similar to my current install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes of course, but to be sure (if you have time) I suggest to add the relay because as the amp has a problem and remain switched ON... Your battery discharge quickly and you cannot return home!!! With the relay you are safer (when you turn off the motor both your relay and also the integrated relay inside the amp are turned off). One addition relay is 15 dollars and you sleep better at night !
 

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Based ok the pics below I think I can count the rear full range as the first two pairs in on the left on the connection to the amp. This connector is definitely all rear speaker fee
Question is which pair do you think is the rear passenger door lower/mid wooofers...? Guess we'll find out...! Thinking it would be the two pair on the right of the connector

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Ended up going with the far left and far right speaker wires in the harness. The far left has a little more power to it so prob definitely pulling from the midwoofers there. The second in from the right (YL/PR.gr) had no signal to the final sub for whatever reason. Most likely the cargo full range ones there from what I’m figuring. Other than that all working!

Thanks for the tips.
 
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