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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
XC started fine this morning - sat at work for 12hrs and wouldn't start after numerous 15sec cranks, a few 30sec cranks - I was waiting for the battery to die. :( Finally, I got a sputter but it didn't catch. Attempted for a few more times and finally she sputtered and started. Once running, she appears to drive just fine.

I am assuming the check valve has completely failed. So, my question is, where does the external check valve get installed and on which line? Anyone have a picture? I have the one JRL or someone recommended a few months back (got it off Amazon).

For a full-on fuel pump replacement, looking in the VIDA repair instructions, dropping the subframe looks like more than I want to tackle (or pay for), plus if I did that I'd want to have fresh subframe bushings installed and I'm sure other parts since its all apart! This is my daily driver so I'm kindof in a pinch - of course I am completely swamped at work, so the timing could not be worse.

No ODBII codes are present.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·

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The line you need is visible in the passenger side rear wheel well. There should be one rubber fuel line running towards the front of the car. This is the line directly out of the filter, and where I placed my valve. It worked perfectly.

The subframe job is not something you want to tackle, ever if you're lucky!
 

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I don't know why you just don't ask me
Very odd that it would go bad "just like that", anyhow......

You buy a NEW fuel filter, the C/V attaches to the back of the new filter, (requires 2 minutes of modification).
Make sure you attach it with the arrow facing in the right direction.
 

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Chris, I am following this closely as I am experiencing the same thing. I may try an external check valve before replacing the fuel pump.

And your boost pressure, you are reading it wrong. You need to subtract atmospheric pressure (~1000 hPa)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys. I have had a couple instances where it took 5 secs of cranking to get it started but when it did it this past weekend, I was on a hill (facing upward) and less than 1/2 a tank. I filled up and things seemed fine.

Jim - my fuel filter is fairly new (less than 5k miles on it), is using a new filter for ease of reinstallation?

Here is the check valve I picked up:

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Started just fine after sitting all night!! :screwy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dropped at dealer and the fuel pressure holds within specs. There was a code for an ECM communication error and when they checked, they noticed some corrosion on the ECU and TCU terminals. Cleaning to see if that resolves this issue.

Antenna ring is this next possible culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well, back to the drawing board. She didn't want to start again after driving around. I jigged the steering column covers and she started. I picked up an antenna ring, so I'll give that a shot. :(
 

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At least it makes sense! Bad antenna ring would lead to no fuel, which leads to a no start. Better than throwing money at other things, that's for sure. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
New antenna ring is installed. So far, so good - we'll see how she does over the coming days. This is an easy install if anyone needs to do it, about $40 for the part and 10 minutes of your time, including disconnecting the battery.
 

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New antenna ring is installed. So far, so good - we'll see how she does over the coming days. This is an easy install if anyone needs to do it, about $40 for the part and 10 minutes of your time, including disconnecting the battery.
Please update, glad to hear it is working well so far though!
 

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I didn't see this post earlier, but in the future,
try plugging and unplugging the antenna ring
connector a few times to clean the contacts.

The antenna itself is just a loop of wire, so there
really isn't anything to break. But it's connections
can oxidize, causing spotty reception.Wiping the
contacts against each other sometimes helps.

It should also be safe to do this without disconnecting
the battery. It's just a passive antenna - No voltage.

Could easily save you that 40 bucks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Ben! Good to know - well, I've got a spare antenna ring :)

She started perfectly every time today. :thumbup:
 

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Awesome, now that yours is fixed, allow me to fully hijack this thread :p

I read my fuel pressure today. 63 psi steady, stayed at that with the car off. I think I'm going to try the antenna ring as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Now you can drive it to leesburg and hook your software up to my R that wont start :p
We can hook it up and see if we can determine anything.
 

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XC started fine this morning - sat at work for 12hrs and wouldn't start after numerous 15sec cranks, a few 30sec cranks - I was waiting for the battery to die. :( Finally, I got a sputter but it didn't catch. Attempted for a few more times and finally she sputtered and started. Once running, she appears to drive just fine.

I am assuming the check valve has completely failed. So, my question is, where does the external check valve get installed and on which line? Anyone have a picture? I have the one JRL or someone recommended a few months back (got it off Amazon).
A friend has a 2007XC (100k miles) that starts well when warm (or stored in the grarage)... but when it is cold (and cold outside (<30F)) it takes some cranking before it will fire up.

I have been looking into XC cold starting issues and have seen the fuel pump check valve mentioned a bunch.

Any help/info/links would be greatly appreciated.
 

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There's been a bunch of P2s that have been hard to start this week
The CV is NOT a problem on these models, you've been reading about 99s and 2000s. Different fuel pump
 

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Before doing the check valve on any -00 model, fuel pressure test needs to be performed. This will immediately indicate whether fuel pressure is appropriate. This assumes of course that you have confirmed that the pump is actually running...

In case it was unclear, the check valve needs to be pre not post filter. The filter helps by acting as an accumulator ( to some extent). The QC barb they provide becomes the filter inlet, with the check valve in between

Those SUR&R parts are very high quality. I'm using their replacement fittings to redo my fuel lines in 10mm for performance goals of course.
 
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