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my recommendation is to find a plastic or metal bushing that will guide the drill bit.

With the way that bolt broke off it's going to force the bit to wander and you don't want it damaging the threads.
even better is something like this
http://www.amazon.com/06110TK-3pck-Drill-Guide-Bushings/dp/B005GFI3FI
in the appropriate thread of course. looks m10ish, but i can't say for sure.
That will thread into the hole and keep the bit straight. it's pretty much the handiest thing ever for bolt extraction. The drilling part is where it usually goes wrong. I've also heated up nylon bushings until they're soft and then forced them into the threads for really odd things.

Be certain you don't break that bolt extractor off. They are hardened, and then make drilling a near impossibility with out carbide tipped bits.
go slow and you'll be fine. let it cool after you've drilled it before you attempt extraction. most of the heat will be in the bolt, and it will expand, making it more difficult to remove. Start small on your bits, get a pilot hole in there and then step up until you hit the size required for the extractor.
At least the axle bolt doesn't look hardened. Drilling hardened bolts sucks balls.

worst case scenario is it gets all boned up. In that case I would just timesert it. You can usually find the timesert kit at a local rental store. It's like a better helicoil. You'd drill out all of the threads, tap it with the time sert tap and then thread the insert in with the tool covered in loctite. Voila, permanent new threads.
 
I forgot to mention - Use a prick punch first. Then drill. Use oil to help disperse heat away.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
That's a lot of helpful info, nsjames. Thanks! Yeah, it definitely didn't shear off leaving a flat surface, so I've been scared about trying to get a reasonably centered hole drilled. There are little/no threads left in the axle hole above where it broke, so I'm pretty certain I wouldn't be able to thread a drill bushing in. I have a set of vix bits at home, I'll see if any of those will fit decently enough in the hole to get a pilot hole started. I'll likely have to swap the bit out, since they're made for wood…but that's easy enough. Does this sound like a good idea? I'm not optimistic one will be a perfect fit…but even if I wrapped the shaft with electrical tape or something to keep it from wandering in the hole should keep it seems like it should keep it steady enough for me to get the pilot hole drilled.
 
find a nylon bushing that looks like it will fit, make it fit.
Whittle it down, heat it up, whatever.

you just need something that will keep you centered in the hole. Hell, a washer ground to fit the wheel bore would work.
get creative, you're moving into backyard hackery territory.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Ok, so I haven't made my mistake into a bird yet…but I will. And I hate to ask again, but I have a couple more questions.

I sought to tackle the rear shocks and springs last night, and am embarrassed to say that it took me over two hours to get one nearly done. I was following the procedure from this thread, which seemed easy enough. But when I got to the place where I was using the jack to compress the spring, I couldn't for the life of me get the spring to stay put. Because the control arm was at such a steep angle when unbolted, the spring kept jumping off it's position as I tried to raise it with the jack. I finally got it…but sadly struggled with it for over an hour before getting it. So any tips there or help anyone could give before I try the other side tonight would be…um…helpful (read in Tim's voice from Monty Python's Holy Grail). But, where I'm stuck now is trying to get the trailing arm bolted back up to the control arm. The control arm is sitting back almost an inch farther than the trailing arm, and I can't for the life of me get the holes aligned to get the bolt going. I tried to show it in a pic as clearly as I could, but I know it's hard to see. Any ideas??

 
Ratchet straps work well, or if you have a helper, have them stand on the brake rotor.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
That's what I was thinking…but the problem is front to back movement. I tried using the jack to lift the control arm up, and I can get them inline…but the trailing arm still sits about an inch from lining up with the hole on the control arm. I'll see if I can't connect a ratchet strap to the trailing arm and wrap it around the rotor to pull it forward to line up…
 
Not sure why you unbolted the repair trailing arm. Can be done just by unbolting the strut. Jack the entire rear end up so that the rear sway doesn't get pressed up. Will allow you to pop the bottom of the strut into the hole.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Not sure why you unbolted the repair trailing arm. Can be done just by unbolting the strut. Jack the entire rear end up so that the rear sway doesn't get pressed up. Will allow you to pop the bottom of the strut into the hole.
Is it possible your thinking of your R? There's definitely no good way to get the spring out without spring compressors (or a hefty friend to stand on the rotor), other than dropping the control arm on a FWD car. At least I don't think there is…
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I have spring compressors actually…just not the special ones that fit inside the rear springs.
 
Is it possible your thinking of your R? There's definitely no good way to get the spring out without spring compressors (or a hefty friend to stand on the rotor), other than dropping the control arm on a FWD car. At least I don't think there is…
100% was on mobile and I didnt realize I was not in the R forum. Good luck with the trailing arm OP!
 
That's what I was thinking…but the problem is front to back movement. I tried using the jack to lift the control arm up, and I can get them inline…but the trailing arm still sits about an inch from lining up with the hole on the control arm. I'll see if I can't connect a ratchet strap to the trailing arm and wrap it around the rotor to pull it forward to line up…
wrap strap around rear arm at the hub. Hook it to the front sub frame where the lift pad is.
Tighten strap with jack under arm until it pops into it's spot.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
That sounds like it would be far easier than trying to attach the ratchet strap to the trailing arm. Thanks! Looks like I'm not going to be able to get back to the garage till Sunday…but I will be armed with some new know-how! Picked up some left-handed drill bits on the way in to work this morning too, so hopefully Sunday I'll get the rears finished AND get the axle bolt extracted/replaced.
 
I've never used that kit but if you go slow and use caution it can be done. Worst thing would be to break one of those carbon steel tap-ours off in the axle. The drilling can be done on car if you go from the front or if you go from the back the axle will have to come out and be disassembled. you will need a new cv boot band and cv joint grease. Worst case if you feel you are not up to the task dis assemble. Clean the axle shaft stub and take it to a machine shop or trusted service shop and have them remove the broken part.

As always if you remove the axle shaft bolts replace them. I can't even begin to count how many I have seen backed out and loose..
 
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