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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I installed Koni FSD shocks and struts, as well as Eibach lowering springs and one ACDelco (rebranded SPC) rear camber arm this weekend. Aldebaran already posted on the front struts, so I'll just write a bit about the rear.

Step 1: Remove the Wheels
Step 2: Support the bottom of the shock if needed (I didn't need to), and unbolt this guy:

Here's another shot:

Step 3: Remove the two bolts holding the top of the shock on:

Step 4: Remove the sway bar endlinks (not sure if you really need to do this or not)

Step 5: Put a jack under the control arm and unbolt this guy, this allows you to move the control arm low enough to pull the springs out:

Step 6: Put the new springs in and line up the ends of the spring with the holes on the top rubber piece and bottom control arm:

and

Step 7: Bolt back up the control arm
Step 8: Remove and replace the camber arms which are held by two bolts:

and

Note that the passenger side has some stupid "leak diagnostic pump" blocking the bolt:

I didn't have the tools to deal with it, so I left the old control arm in (I'll pay someone to replace it).
Here's a shot of the difference between the control arms:

Step 9: Replace your bump stops if necessary (I bought the firm Ground Control bump stops: http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=10/CA=1)
I was going to do something like this because the rear GC bump stops are smaller in diameter than the OEM ones, they also don't support the original dust covers:

But I ended up just epoxying the dust covers onto the mounts with the bump stops wedged inside...
Step 10: Bolt back on the struts
Step 11: Make sure everything is torqued properly, then put the wheels back on...

And here's the result of the lowering:
---- Front Before ----

---- Front After ----

---- Rear Before ----

---- Rear After ----



The FSDs and Eibachs, combined with my RacingBeat rear sway bar are simply amazing. The car remains VERY flat during cornering, there's a good increase in steering feel, and the ride is more comfortable! Gunna be heading to an autocross session soon, we'll see how everything holds up.

--- EDIT: Torque Specs ---
Rear wheel hub to longitudinal stay: 65 Nm
Drive shaft to front wheel hub: 35 Nm 90°
Wheel to hub End date v50 2009: Step 1: 20 Nm Step 2: 110 Nm
Wheel to hub Start date v51 2009: Step 1: 20 Nm Step 2: 130 Nm
Wheel knuckle to strut and spring assembly: 90 Nm
Rear anti-roll bar link to control arm: 50 Nm
Rear stabilizer bar link to stabilizer bar: 70 Nm
Anti-roll bar link rear (with rubber bushing): 25 Nm
Rear shock absorber to longitudinal stay: 115 Nm
Rear shock absorber to longitudinal stay, Nivomat: 225 Nm
Rear shock absorber bearing to shock absorber: 25 Nm
Rear shock absorber bearing to shock absorber Nivomat: 60 Nm
Front shock absorber bearing to body: 30 Nm
Front shock absorber bearing to shock absorber: 50 Nm
Pressure sensor tire: 10 Nm

Applies to screwed joint with strength class 8.8.
Thread Tightening torque (Nm)
M5 5
M6 10
M7 17
M8 24
M10 50
M12 80
M14 130
 

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Good write up! Sticky this one please!
 

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yes very nice. now if we can have a write up of the camber arm for the passenger side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
yes very nice. now if we can have a write up of the camber arm for the passenger side.
There are a couple:
1) Removing the pump from the bracket and bending the bracket out of the way - http://krystmsgarage.com/?p=287
2) Unbolting the bracket and rotating it out of the way - http://www.mnmazda.com/forum/showthread.php?6558-How-To-Camber-Arm-install-on-Mazdaspeed-3

Unfortunately, I didn't have the tools to unscrew the torx screws holding the pump on in such a cramped location. I also didn't have tools small enough to unbolt the bracket from the subframe without lowering the subframe. I tried to attached some twine to the bracket and pull/rotate it out of the way, but it didn't budge one bit.

The official way in VIDA is to drop the entire rear subframe and remove the leak diagnostic pump, but seriously, who's gunna do that?
 

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Perfect timing! Between this and aldebaran's other write-up, I should be able to install my coilovers this week!
 

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Quick question regarding both this and the other suspension write-up:

How important is it to have everything torqued properly (with a torque wrench to exact specs)? Do you all have the torque specs for all of these nuts that are being removed? If it's not a big deal, then I won't worry about it too much.

Cheers and thanks again.
 

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.....The FSDs and Eibachs, combined with my RacingBeat rear sway bar are simply amazing....
I am a little off topic but can you give me a part number for the RacingBeat sway bar that fits on your S40?
I want to install one to my 2006 S40 FWD and on the racingbeat.com site, at the mazda3 section it gives me 3 part. numbers (74101;74102;74104). Which one fits to my car?


Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How important is it to have everything torqued properly (with a torque wrench to exact specs)? Do you all have the torque specs for all of these nuts that are being removed? If it's not a big deal, then I won't worry about it too much.
I was lazy and didn't feel like looking everything up, a lot of stuff was generally around 80 ft-lbs, so that's about what I torqued most things to. If the bolt came off really easy and didn't seem to be in a very important spot, I usually torqued it back to something lower. I don't think it matters that much as long as the important stuff isn't grossly undertorqued, but that's just my opinion.

I am a little off topic but can you give me a part number for the RacingBeat sway bar that fits on your S40?
74101 - http://www.racingbeat.com/Mazda-3/Sway-Bars/74101.html
I also referenced it here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?174446-Rear-Sway-Bar-Writeup
 

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So what's the proper torque for all bolts of shock replacement?!

- Shock upper mount bolts (x2)
- Shock rod bolt
- Lower shock mount bolt

More problems :mad:
Bilstein installation sheet sucks! Their torque fastener chart doesn't match the fastener they provided and I ended over torquing the bolt!
The rear bumper stop doesn't fit the Bilstein well either... again the bump stop diameter is too small for the shock piston rod.

Install was really easy until!!!

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Their torque fastener chart doesn't match the fastener they provided and I ended over torquing the bolt!
Daaaaayyyyyyyyuuuuuuuummmmmm! I feel your pain!

I added torque specs to the main post. I believe 115Nm is the "lower shock mount bolt" and 25Nm is "shock rod bolt" (might want to double check that). The two upper mount bolts can probably be torqued to the spec for that bolt size.
 

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Daaaaayyyyyyyyuuuuuuuummmmmm! I feel your pain!

I added torque specs to the main post. I believe 115Nm is the "lower shock mount bolt" and 25Nm is "shock rod bolt" (might want to double check that). The two upper mount bolts can probably be torqued to the spec for that bolt size.
Yeah... their sheet says: M12>34 ft/lb (45nm), M14>54 ft/lb (72nm) and they give me a M13 :facepalm: so I picked in between. Big mistake!!!
I think 25nm (19ft/lb) would have been plenty truly!!!


Thanks for providing the numbers and updating the write-up.
 

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TG, Torque specs are for the thread diameter, NOT the nut/bolt wrench size. Last time you make that mistake I'm guessing.
 

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When we replaced my Camber Arms, (I had a friend helping), we found the easiest way to remove and reinstall the upper nut/bolt on the passenger side was to use several long extensions on a ratchet and go from the wheel well. I was under the car guiding the socket end to the bolt and held a wrench on the nut. The other person turned the ratchet. It took us about 20 minutes to replace the camber arm on the passenger side. If I remember correctly, its been several years, we had to bend the bracket a little to actually get the socket on.

We also adjusted the new arm the same as the old arm and locked it down before we installed it on the car. This gave it the same camber as before until I could get the car aligned.

Hope this helps
delhi
 

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TG, Torque specs are for the thread diameter, NOT the nut/bolt wrench size.
Ha ha ha ha . . . :facepalm: . . . I'm laughing at my dumb self . . .
Boy oh boy, I need to go back to school! Obviously I forgot a few things in the last 20/25 yrs
Further the yrs pass the more things get mix up :p


Last time you make that mistake I'm guessing.
You can be sure of that (for a time :facepalm:)!
 

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Daaaaayyyyyyyyuuuuuuuummmmmm! I feel your pain!

I added torque specs to the main post. I believe 115Nm is the "lower shock mount bolt" and 25Nm is "shock rod bolt" (might want to double check that). The two upper mount bolts can probably be torqued to the spec for that bolt size.
Those torque specs are correct. Use 25Nm (18ftlbs) for the upper mount to body as well.
115Nm (85ftlbs) is the spec for all the links (camber arms, shorty upper links & the lower spring cup outer bolt). Use 90Nm (66ftlbs) for the toe adjustment bolt. The Volvo torque spec pages are a bit confusing as they can on occasion contradict each other & the part labels don't match the repair description. Ion, I would suggest deleting the "Diagonal stays: 70 Nm" as it's not applicable to this repair.
 

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BTW, can a shock be rebuild at a fraction of the cost or would it tampered too much on its effectiveness?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You might be able to have those sheared threads drilled out and a double-sided screw inserted. With the right tools you could probably even do it yourself, simply hack saw off the remaining thread, drill a pilot hold in the center of the rod and then tap it.
 
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