Fuel tank removal = roughly 4-6 hours; fairly difficult / unpleasant.
Tools required: ford (or similar) fuel line disconnect tool, wire cutters, jack + 2 pair of tall stands, a medium size pry-bar, 10mm socket + ratchet and various extensions, sheet metal cutters, drain pan, lots of rags, medium size hose clamp, and gloves. *Get a friend to help you*
Step 0: Prepare yourself mentally and physically for a challenging event by drinking a beer and leaving almost no gasoline in your tank.
Step 1: get your vehicle around 2.5’ in the air, even surface and ground if possible.
Step 2: disconnect battery (probably not really necessary)
Step 3: identify the two fuel lines at the front of the fuel tank, near where the brake lines t-off. You will see two fuel lines connectors: one with a green internal clip (below) and one with a white external clip (above). Use the Ford fuel line disconnect tool to release the green internal clip, by pushing it into the connector, and while holding the disconnect tool in, pull the fuel line out (some fuel may spill). Next take a thin screwdriver and pop the top of the white clip up until you hear a click. Then press on the bottom of the clip and pull out (some fuel may spill). This white connector line is the main fuel line attaching to the fuel pump.
Step 4: Locate the filler hose at the back passenger side of the tank. Cut the factory crimped filler hose clamp off and use the pry bar to get the hose loosed from the metallic filler line.
Step 5: Disconnect the fuel pump control module electrical connector near the passenger side of the tank (if equipped in this location).
Step 6: Remove the driver side plastic shield just in front of the rear driver wheel.
Step 7: Locate the aluminum tin heat shield around the exhaust on the driver side of the fuel tank. This fairly large piece must come off and you will bend it to death. Remove the 10mm retaining bolts holding it in place. Using the sheet metal cutter, cut two incisions: 1 at the exhaust hanger and 1 at the bend around under body of the chassis. Then strongly suggest to the heat shield to come off by prying, bending, pushing, pulling, or cursing to get it clear. Keep in mind how you got it off, installation is the reverse of installation. Don’t worry, you can bend it back into shape later.
Step 8: Locate the three strap bolts that hold the tank in place. *Note: the straps do not come off the tank. Having someone support the tank either with themselves underneath or with a jack, undo the bolts.
Step 9: Tip the front of the tank down so you can access the other electrical, carbon canister, and fuel lines that need to be disconnected. Reach up
and disconnect them: these fuel lines disconnect by pinching the white tabs together and pulling. Some of the lines are clipped into the tank molding. Particularly challenging will be the largest of the connection at the back, which is (I think) the carbon canister line. This will require you to press very firmly on each tab to get it to release.
Step 10: using the pry bar, slide the fuel tank filler hose off the filler tube.
Step 11: Tank should be clear, remove from vehicle.
Step 12: Using two hammers and screw drivers, simultaneously drive the lock ring around the fuel tank off. Now you can remove, replace, repair the
fuel pump.
Step 13: Installation requires pre-greasing the filler hose and filler tube. Install a hose clamp onto the filler hose.
Step 14: Installation is reversal of removal.
Step 15: Start up car, check for normal operation.
Step 16: Install heat shielding and plastic molding. Reorient and bend the heat heat back into place once installed and tape the incisions up with aluminum tap.
Step 17: Admire that you just accomplished a smelly task and hose yourself down with a detergent beer, preferably something like PBR and then give your friend the other 11 beers as thanks for his / her help.
Tools required: ford (or similar) fuel line disconnect tool, wire cutters, jack + 2 pair of tall stands, a medium size pry-bar, 10mm socket + ratchet and various extensions, sheet metal cutters, drain pan, lots of rags, medium size hose clamp, and gloves. *Get a friend to help you*
Step 0: Prepare yourself mentally and physically for a challenging event by drinking a beer and leaving almost no gasoline in your tank.
Step 1: get your vehicle around 2.5’ in the air, even surface and ground if possible.
Step 2: disconnect battery (probably not really necessary)
Step 3: identify the two fuel lines at the front of the fuel tank, near where the brake lines t-off. You will see two fuel lines connectors: one with a green internal clip (below) and one with a white external clip (above). Use the Ford fuel line disconnect tool to release the green internal clip, by pushing it into the connector, and while holding the disconnect tool in, pull the fuel line out (some fuel may spill). Next take a thin screwdriver and pop the top of the white clip up until you hear a click. Then press on the bottom of the clip and pull out (some fuel may spill). This white connector line is the main fuel line attaching to the fuel pump.
Step 4: Locate the filler hose at the back passenger side of the tank. Cut the factory crimped filler hose clamp off and use the pry bar to get the hose loosed from the metallic filler line.
Step 5: Disconnect the fuel pump control module electrical connector near the passenger side of the tank (if equipped in this location).
Step 6: Remove the driver side plastic shield just in front of the rear driver wheel.
Step 7: Locate the aluminum tin heat shield around the exhaust on the driver side of the fuel tank. This fairly large piece must come off and you will bend it to death. Remove the 10mm retaining bolts holding it in place. Using the sheet metal cutter, cut two incisions: 1 at the exhaust hanger and 1 at the bend around under body of the chassis. Then strongly suggest to the heat shield to come off by prying, bending, pushing, pulling, or cursing to get it clear. Keep in mind how you got it off, installation is the reverse of installation. Don’t worry, you can bend it back into shape later.
Step 8: Locate the three strap bolts that hold the tank in place. *Note: the straps do not come off the tank. Having someone support the tank either with themselves underneath or with a jack, undo the bolts.
Step 9: Tip the front of the tank down so you can access the other electrical, carbon canister, and fuel lines that need to be disconnected. Reach up
and disconnect them: these fuel lines disconnect by pinching the white tabs together and pulling. Some of the lines are clipped into the tank molding. Particularly challenging will be the largest of the connection at the back, which is (I think) the carbon canister line. This will require you to press very firmly on each tab to get it to release.
Step 10: using the pry bar, slide the fuel tank filler hose off the filler tube.
Step 11: Tank should be clear, remove from vehicle.
Step 12: Using two hammers and screw drivers, simultaneously drive the lock ring around the fuel tank off. Now you can remove, replace, repair the
fuel pump.
Step 13: Installation requires pre-greasing the filler hose and filler tube. Install a hose clamp onto the filler hose.
Step 14: Installation is reversal of removal.
Step 15: Start up car, check for normal operation.
Step 16: Install heat shielding and plastic molding. Reorient and bend the heat heat back into place once installed and tape the incisions up with aluminum tap.
Step 17: Admire that you just accomplished a smelly task and hose yourself down with a detergent beer, preferably something like PBR and then give your friend the other 11 beers as thanks for his / her help.
