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You beat me to the How-to. I just did my struts and shocks last Monday and hadn't gotten chance to post. Very nice job.
Stan
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
I would also like to point out another observation. A strut does not have to show signs of leaks to need replacing. My other strut provided no damping during the first three inches of travel and then lots of cavitation in the damper oil which resulted in squishing noises all the way down.

I bought some clear vinyl tubing at Lowe's and wrapped the lower portions of the coils so it wouldn't rattle on the metal perches.

 

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Mine were the same way, the left strut had no gas pressure and a dead spot. The right was leaking, no gas and a bigger dead spot. The right bearing fell apart when I removed the top nut. Other than a little leaning and mount noise, I had no idea they were that bad. I did find that right front tire inner edge is rather chewed.

I put Koni Yellows on with stock springs. The car corners very flat and feels glued to the road. I am still adjusting the damping to achieve a good balance between handling and comfort. With 1 turn toward firm on the rear and 3/4 turn on the fronts it is a little too harsh. When I get a chance I want to back the rears off to 3/4 of a turn. While the car handles great, it some how feels like it needs to be lower to the ground. This may be more of a sensation as the car has much less lean in corners and my body wants to lean instead. I wonder if the FSD's do this too?

That is an interesting idea with the hose over the coil.

Stan
 

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I just did this yesterday to my friends c30. These fronts are a pain. 2 big pitas are taking off the shock from the spindle. We used a crowbar to pry the spindle off. Idk how you got it off with a screwdriver Melvin lol. The second big pain was unscrewing the top mount from the shock. That thing kept on spinning as you were turning it lol. We used a vice grip to keep it from spinning. Voila! I can't wait to get kw v3s and put them on my car lol


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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I just did this yesterday to my friends c30. These fronts are a pain. 2 big pitas are taking off the shock from the spindle. We used a crowbar to pry the spindle off. Idk how you got it off with a screwdriver Melvin lol. The second big pain was unscrewing the top mount from the shock. That thing kept on spinning as you were turning it lol. We used a vice grip to keep it from spinning. Voila! I can't wait to get kw v3s and put them on my car lol

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LOL..

Well 1) you are supposed to remove the bolt and then spray some PB Blaster. Jack the entire front end of the car up so you unload the tie rods/roll bar. Then a screw driver will get the strut off the spindle. I did it again today to get to the CV boot. But aborted as I could not get the axle off the transmission. I guess I'll pay my tech to do it on Saturday.

2) You are also supposed to loosen the spring retaining nut while the assembly is on the car.
 

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Yeah both sides were up and it still took some time getting the shocks off. One note on number 2 was that our mechanic friend said not to do that as the spring might bounce up. So we went with what he said lol.


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I couldn't get mine off with just a screwdriver and tons of PB, and in attempting to pry it out, I bent the tabs on the old struts (didn't matter to me because I was replacing them with FSDs). The solution I ended up with was a sledgehammer to the knuckle (that thing is solid steel and the sledgehammer barely scratched it). Using the sledgehammer, the strut came right out. I then noticed that the bottom of the inside of the knuckle and the bottom of the strut were pretty badly rusted.

Another note for anyone else doing this, my new FSDs wouldn't fit back in the knuckle completely either. So I ended up sanding away the rust on the inside of the knuckle, and sanding away some of the powercoating and smoothing out the welds on the bottom of the strut. It was still a tight fit getting the strut all the way into the knuckle, I ended up jacking the the assembly all the way up (applying pressure from the bottom) and hammering on the knuckle with my sledgehammer. Took a few hits with the assembly raised all the way up, but the struts eventually slid in.

Thanks a lot for your writeup aldebaran! Based on JN2k108's comments, I think loosening the spring retaining nut is a must! I don't see how the spring could ever bounce up, all I did was break the nut free while it was on the car, I didn't unscrew it at all. Once I had the struts out of the car and the springs compressor, the retaining nut came right off with absolutely no trouble.
 

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Great write up! I'm going to have to do the strut bearings this week... For the 5th(!!!) time in 4 years... :( Might as well d the whole lot again!
 

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I have absolutely no idea why.

I don't have a heavy engine (the lightest version available). I don't have a heavy gearbox. Nor is my car overloaded at the front. I don't go up and down curbs nor do I always head through potholes. No matter if I use my ultra light 15" steel rims or my former 18" Atreus or the current 19" Tomasons. The noise is back with in days of the repair. I'm not the only one with this kind of issue. The C30 seems to have issues with those bearings. Oddly, there is no connection to anything. Lowering? Nope. Even cars with stock factory suspension have the issues. Heavy rims? Nope. Even light 15"s have the problem. Engine weight? Nope.

My dealership is lost. So is Volvo Germany and Volvo Sweden say "there is no problem".

This time I have gone with non Volvo bearings. Instead I'm using SKF bearings and hope that they will last. I'm also going to coat them in a fine amount of grease.

In average, mine were changed every 20.000 km. The ones at the moment have been creaking since about 50.000 km (about 30.000 miles) as I couldn't be bothered to change them. Now I will.
 

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Started and what a stupid idea of Volvo to fit the ASB with those idiotic couplers... Whoever designed them needs to be tared and feathered!
 

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Put on my coilovers today using this thread--thanks everyone!

However, the nut holding the strut assembly together WOULD NOT loosen a BIT while still secured in the tower, so I removed the entire strut assembly and had to take it to Firestone to have them take it off with all their fancy tools.

Also, I found that my right CV boot had come off and was leaking a fair amount, so I'll have to have that replaced. Any danger in driving it ~5 miles to the shop or should I have it towed?

Other than that, everything went as planned.

Cheers!
 

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I am still trying to get my Koni yellows dialed in. The adjustment is for the rebound only. The car handles great but the ride quality is odd. I am using Koni {8741 1490LSport &
8741 1490RSport on front, 8040 1353Sport on back} with the stock springs (not sure what version ie. comfort, sport, dynamic). I am guessing that they are comfort. Anyone know how to tell?

I started with the rears 1/2 turn firm, fronts 1/2 turn firm. This was too bouncy. If I increased the front, the car felt unbalanced.
I recently had 1 turn on the rear and 3/4 turn on front. The ride is a little harsh on small bumps but under damped on slower bumps.
Today I set the rears to 3/4 turn and 5/8 turn on front. I haven't tried it yet.


I had put Koni yellows on my '02 S40 with stock springs and loved it. I just set the rears to 1/2 turn and dialed the fronts to balance the car and it was golden. So far I am a little frustrated now. I am not sure what my next course of action should be. Try different springs? Try different shocks/struts?

Stan
 

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Given the year of your S40, I wonder if you need newer/stiffer springs.
 

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I am still trying to get my Koni yellows dialed in. The adjustment is for the rebound only. The car handles great but the ride quality is odd. I am using Koni {8741 1490LSport &
8741 1490RSport on front, 8040 1353Sport on back} with the stock springs (not sure what version ie. comfort, sport, dynamic). I am guessing that they are comfort. Anyone know how to tell?

Stan
Look in this thread, post #3. Give me the last row of numbers on your plate/sticker & I can tell you.

You have the firmer of the two available rear shocks. I would set the rear to zero & then play with the front. I think the factory lowering springs would be a great combo if you want to stay on the mild side.
 

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According to VADIS, I have the comfort suspension. The new settings do seem better (rear 3/4 turn, front 1/2 turn).

I have 106K miles on the car so the springs could be getting weak. If I change springs, I don't want to drop much. I was looking at the Volvo lowering kit which drops 0.8 inches (20mm). It is darn expensive though at a little over $400. What are my other options for an inch or less drop?

Thanks
Stan
 

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What are my other options for an inch or less drop?

Thanks
Stan
AFAIK - none. Maybe the coil-over kits go that high but that's way more than $400. I'm in the same boat, I want to firm things up with a very minimal drop.
 
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