SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 110 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, so I did a quick test of jacking the front of car up, then trying to move the wheels from side to side. They were stiff. I guess the outer tie rods are still ok.

So, that got me wondering...what about my Lower Control Arms...



Need replacement?

I'm tending to think this is the reason for my rather "loose steering issues".

This is a pic from looking at the FR LCA towards the front of the car. If you were to go around to the front of the car and look towards the back of the car, the LCA bushing on that end would look the same as this one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,373 Posts
Time to replace. Rubber is cracked right through top & bottom. Center is shiny where it's been rubbing on the outside.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yeah, a little rhetorical, but looking for confirmation as well, in addition to other observations I noted, like the shiny metal showing.

In a previous post I said the steering was really loose and it is, but I don't notice it at all going straight...until I get a curve in the road and that's where the play in the steering wheel starts wandering.

I don't know too much about the symptoms of bad LCAs, but it looks like I'm finding out by experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,415 Posts
I understand these get more stress due to the counter leaver effect but does anyone ever change the control arm front bushings?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
I replaced the entire arms. You get new front and rear bushings plus new ball joint already installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,415 Posts
This is nice . . . though you don't get the firmer bushings if you want something a little more tight, sporty, and not loose like the OE setup. It's a choice though and changing the arm is great because you change part of the rusted chassi in the process :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
For those who have replaced their Lower Control Arms, was it easy to get the ball joint nut off without removing the axle? can you fit an allen key between the ball joint and the axle to hold the ball joint from spining while you tighten/loosen?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,406 Posts
For those who have replaced their Lower Control Arms, was it easy to get the ball joint nut off without removing the axle? can you fit an allen key between the ball joint and the axle to hold the ball joint from spining while you tighten/loosen?
I had not noticed anywhere to put an allen key. I popped out my ball joint the other day when swapping an axle and all I needed was a combination wrench.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Good to know. It figured the ball joints were the same as the end links, where you need an Allen key to tighten/loosen them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Just a wrench to loosen the nut then smack the knuckle hard a few times with a large hammer (3-4 lbs) and it should pop loose. When you order the control arms also order new bolts from Volvo. The ones for the rear bushing are torque-to-yield so need to be replaced. The front should probably also be replaced and all the new ones come with a dab of thread locker on them. The bolt for the front one on the passenger side is hard to get a good angle on but you can remove the bracket holding the 2 lines that are in the way and move them enough to get to it. However the bracket is held by 2 bolts with red thread locker and kind of a biotch to break them loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I replaced the entire arms. You get new front and rear bushings plus new ball joint already installed.
This is what I prefer at the moment, as I don't want to spend an entire day attempting to put new bushings into an old LCA.

First, I'd rather have a new LCA arm and then maybe try this 20K miles later or something when I had a lot of time on my hands. Second, if I wanted a shop to do this, they'd have to know what they're doing or they could screw up a new LCA arm. Third, my original LCA just might be in need of a replacement anyway as it's now 114K miles, and the stress on those arms weakening the non-bushing areas.

So overall, I just ordered new LCAs from Tasca, and new screws and apparently a nut that is recommended to be replaced as well.

Thanks for comments everyone! I'll post pics of my new and old LCAs in the future. I'm leaning towards my shop installing the LCAs. However, if I'm replacing THE ENTIRE LCA, then I would think it would be easier to do than swapping out bushings.

I replaced the entire arms. You get new front and rear bushings plus new ball joint already installed.
That was another consideration after looking more closely at the part. If the LCA bushings are shot to hell, the chances of the ball joint being bad are very possible. Why install new bushings when the old ball joint would then be taking probably more force due to the performing bushings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Just as a measure of the difficulty and time involved, it took the same amount or less time to do both LCAs then replacing the oil filter housing/pcv which I did right after. I think I did all 3 things in under 4 hrs in the parking lot of my apartments.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,591 Posts
definitely understand the ease of just putting in new arms...i just didn't like the fact my factory ones were so soft and already worn/loose at 30k.

instead decided i'd spend the $75 for my shop to press and install the $100 rear bushing and now i have improved handling plus durability -- should last the life of the car rather than go through new arms every 30k.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,415 Posts
Just as a measure of the difficulty and time involved, it took the same amount or less time to do both LCAs then replacing the oil filter housing/pcv which I did right after. I think I did all 3 things in under 4 hrs in the parking lot of my apartments.
You're the man . . . now you are just a little too far from where I live :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
definitely understand the ease of just putting in new arms...i just didn't like the fact my factory ones were so soft and already worn/loose at 30k.

instead decided i'd spend the $75 for my shop to press and install the $100 rear bushing and now i have improved handling plus durability -- should last the life of the car rather than go through new arms every 30k.
I'll probably do this once I put maybe 10K on the new LCAs. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
I changed the control arm bushings. It wasn't fun. I used the puller to rip out the existing bushing from the pressed on shaft, then I cut the shaft lengthwise and unwrapped it from the control arm. Hope that makes sense. Here are a few pictures

New bushing


Pulling old bushing off


After the outer part ripped off, I used a dremel to cut along the shaft that the bushing slides onto. Then I spread it a bit with a screwdriver and it came off. This was the end result


Then I stood the control arm upright, supported the bottom with a concrete block and used a sledge hammer to hammer the new one back on. Make sure the opening in the bushing is parallel to the control arm. It should be facing backwards. Hammer it on until it hits the bottom of the control arm

Also, here's a video of the old bushing. The new one moves around like that too, but that's moving the bushing front to back, and not side to side like in the car. It won't see that type of movement when bolted up to the car. The arm will only move up and down, and not inwards/outwards

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
We don't really have an informative write-up for LCA replacements, do we? I only see one link in the sticky thread and there's just a few comments on it.

So, for an entire removal/replacement of LCAs, what would I need. I have a torque wrench/breaker bar, typical collection of Volvo sockets (15, 16, 17, 18, 19mm,), jack stands, and the car jack. Oh, and PB Blaster.

If I think this is possible myself, I'll do a write-up. The only question I have is if I'll run into problems removing some bolts. But I'll be PB Blastering them and letting them sit for 30mins (or an hour or so if I grab a chair and have an iced tea).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,379 Posts
DIY - Sticky +1

That Puller would have been more Stable - Backed all the way Off , so You could Hook on Far End - instead of Front .
Hope You Cleaned those up with some Good Primer , Paint and then Protector .

Good to see DIY - did You try any Rust Breaker & Heat to help it slide Off ? :thumbup:
 
1 - 20 of 110 Posts
Top