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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
But am very nervous about having to disconnect the small Allen bolts that hold prop shaft to rear diff. Any tips?

These seem so tiny and I’m guessing they have never been removed. They are also close to gas tank and VC so not sure heat will be in the cards. Allen bolts are notorious for stripping and I’m as concerned about that as I am about just plain old snapping them.


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
 

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When I do this I usually hammer in the 6mm Allen socket and then use a swiveling extension with a 3/8 impact. Has worked great on all the cars I have done. If the rear of the driveshaft hasn't come out of the flange before, good chance you will need a Air chisel, that thing will blast it right out.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I do this I usually hammer in the 6mm Allen socket and then use a swiveling extension with a 3/8 impact. Has worked great on all the cars I have done. If the rear of the driveshaft hasn't come out of the flange before, good chance you will need a Air chisel, that thing will blast it right out.

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Thank you good tips. I’m also replacing the hub/spindles so worst case I will just rip it all out in one piece (axle + spindle).


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When I do this I usually hammer in the 6mm Allen socket and then use a swiveling extension with a 3/8 impact. Has worked great on all the cars I have done. If the rear of the driveshaft hasn't come out of the flange before, good chance you will need a Air chisel, that thing will blast it right out.

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One question for you: if front end is not off ground can I rotate prop shaft?


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
 

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One question for you: if front end is not off ground can I rotate prop shaft?


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
The front does need to be off the ground to rotate the driveshaft. As far as I know if you are pulling the axle, it should be able to come off without removing any Allen bolts. You should be able to undo the 4 bolts for the hub/wheel bearing and pop the axle out of the diff with a pry bar. Then slide the whole assembly through the spindle. Sometimes the axles won't fit through the spindle, and you will have to instead disconnect a few if the suspension arms instead.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The front does need to be off the ground to rotate the driveshaft. As far as I know if you are pulling the axle, it should be able to come off without removing any Allen bolts. You should be able to undo the 4 bolts for the hub/wheel bearing and pop the axle out of the diff with a pry bar. Then slide the whole assembly through the spindle. Sometimes the axles won't fit through the spindle, and you will have to instead disconnect a few if the suspension arms instead.

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I wish it was that simple. You can’t get the axle out without lowering the rear differential. Hard to describe why but there is something in the way. I will hopefully be able to video tape the job so you will see what I mean.


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
 

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I hammered in a Torx socket bit on my badly stripped/rusted rear CV joint bolts on my S80 (replaced with new bolts afterwards)

Also there is two threaded holes behind the bell for pressing out the CV joint
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update:
I successfully removed all 6 hex bolts. Bloody hell, they are on there pretty tight (I think the red loctite accounts for most of that).

The hammering tip was key.

I could not get that darned prop shaft to spin until is raised all four wheels, put the thing in drive and gently eased off the brake for maybe a 1/3 wheel revolution.

Didn’t get much further beyond stripping spindles of their dust shields and e-brake mechs. Back at ‘er tomorrow.




2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
 

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I've had them rust weld on so bad that I've had to sacrifice the harmonic coupler. I cut into the outside with a right angle cut off wheel down to the rubber bushing, repeat again about an inch away and then pop it off. I makes the job a couple hundred dollars more expensive but that coupler probably needs to be replaced as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Update: well good news is that I was able to drop the differential to get at the axles for replacement. the bad news is that I kind of forgot about the prop shaft (and subconsciously hoped that it would just disconnect by itself with those 6 bolts out) - yeah, no - that didn't happen. So effectively I lowered the differential and likely stressed the joint between the prop shaft and the viscous coupler a bit. Dumb ass move. Does anyone think I could have cause serious damage? Still looks fine and doesn't have any play.

At this point, I'm staring at that viscous coupler thinking...man, I really don't want to pull all this stuff off again, it's an '02, maybe I should just replace the darned VC right now while it's totally accessible. the little guy on my right shoulder (Flinstones reference BTW) is saying, don't fix what probably ain't broken. Hmmm. Pluse it's not a cheap part and getting a used unit in good condition for the 01/02 version (non-haldex) is not gonna be easy.

I'm also losing sleep over the back-right vibration that I was experiencing. Once the current job is done I will have replaced both rear bearings/spindles as well as both axles (plus some subframe bushings that were toast). Thing is (on a slightly related note) two weeks back I discovered that some joker left a couple of bolts off the angle gear a while back and the angle gear was loose to the point where I could push it up and down with one arm (yikes!). Why this is relevant right now is that when I tightened all the bolts (and replaced the ones that were missing) I feel like maybe the vibration at the back right got worse. This got me thinking that the only way that's possible is if the vibration was in the prop shaft or viscous coupler. I keep reminding myself that I could distinctly feel the vibration on one side but I also know that sound travels in strange ways in these cars so you never know. Just sharing. Feel free to comment.

On a positive note, I'm so happy that I opted to use my in-laws (vacant) garage for this job. It would have been a serious nuisance to have to clean up my drive multiple days in a row as I sort through this mess!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update:
All bits and pieces are back on (newer hubs/spindles, axles, trailing arm bushings, inner subframe bushings (x2) and I'm baffled with where I'm experiencing some delays: jacking up the rear suspension to "normal" height before tightening all the bolts/bushings. I used to just jack the rear end up by the lower control arm until the weight came off the jack stand but I stumbled across some VIDA literature that apparently appealed to my OCD nature. This literature states that "normal" = 432mm for the XC's with measurement taken from underside of wheel well to centre of axle. Well I'll be damned if I can get anywhere close to that. Got to 445mm the other day and should have just gone with that but decided to hold off. Now it's -5degC out and as a result, I'm getting in the 460-480mm range. Arrrrghhh. Considering just popping the shock out of the lower control arm which should give me all the adjustment I need. I've hit that point in the job where I just need to walk away for a couple of days though as every step feels tedious and annoying. The colder weather really isn't helping.
 
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