Working on my 164E
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Lots of work done but not much to show for. Some recent things I've completed are:
Sourced a decent 1352-260 T5 transmission. The 3.35 first gear and 0.68 OD play nicely with my 3.31 rear on paper. Rebuild kit coming soon.
I have completed designing a prototype T5 adapter plate. Working with a machinist to get first prototype. If there is interest from other 164 owners, please PM me. I have adapted the BW35 bell for this because the M400/410 bellhousing are scarce. The B18 and B20 bells do not fit the B30.
An SN95 mustang ('94-'04?) pilot bearing is a direct fit for the B30. The B30 crank (atleast the 6 bolt crank) is already machined to accept the manual pilot bearing.
Sourced a flywheel from a marine B30 and 164 clutch pressure plate. A Mustang II 9.5" clutch will fit the 164 pressure plate as well as the Ford T5 input shaft.
I will use a hydraulic throw out bearing. Most I have found require machining the input shaft collar on the T5 transmission, however.
As for pedals, I have adapted a clutch pedal from a 140 to use on my stock 164 pedal arrangement. The clutch master cylinder unfortunately will have an integral reservoir under the dash. There is no where to mount a remote reservoir on the firewall to work with a gravity feed arrangement and still be able to close the hood.
Until next time and hopefully with photos.
Sourced a decent 1352-260 T5 transmission. The 3.35 first gear and 0.68 OD play nicely with my 3.31 rear on paper. Rebuild kit coming soon.
I have completed designing a prototype T5 adapter plate. Working with a machinist to get first prototype. If there is interest from other 164 owners, please PM me. I have adapted the BW35 bell for this because the M400/410 bellhousing are scarce. The B18 and B20 bells do not fit the B30.
An SN95 mustang ('94-'04?) pilot bearing is a direct fit for the B30. The B30 crank (atleast the 6 bolt crank) is already machined to accept the manual pilot bearing.
Sourced a flywheel from a marine B30 and 164 clutch pressure plate. A Mustang II 9.5" clutch will fit the 164 pressure plate as well as the Ford T5 input shaft.
I will use a hydraulic throw out bearing. Most I have found require machining the input shaft collar on the T5 transmission, however.
As for pedals, I have adapted a clutch pedal from a 140 to use on my stock 164 pedal arrangement. The clutch master cylinder unfortunately will have an integral reservoir under the dash. There is no where to mount a remote reservoir on the firewall to work with a gravity feed arrangement and still be able to close the hood.
Until next time and hopefully with photos.
Designing and fabricating adapters is ambitious. Mixing and matching clutch pieces also ambitious. You have my admiration.
My recollection of my 1987 745 T was that the clutch used the same fluid reservoir as the brake MC. I seem to recall that the feed point was higher in the reservoir so that a leak in the clutch system would not completely drain the brake hydraulics. Might be something to consider because I expect the brake MC should be high enough to provide gravity feed to your clutch MC. Bleeding a clutch system with the reservoir located under the dash just seems like too much potential agony.
My recollection of my 1987 745 T was that the clutch used the same fluid reservoir as the brake MC. I seem to recall that the feed point was higher in the reservoir so that a leak in the clutch system would not completely drain the brake hydraulics. Might be something to consider because I expect the brake MC should be high enough to provide gravity feed to your clutch MC. Bleeding a clutch system with the reservoir located under the dash just seems like too much potential agony.
Indeed, I feel the same way about it but I did not consider running it off the brake system. Thanks for the insight! Too much time in the garage narrowed my vision.
If the whole trans swap goes under, I can always put the BW35 back in. However, I am a bit jealous of all the 3 pedal 140s on here. We'll see how it goes, but it will be really cool if it all holds up. I expect to do some minor tweaks but the gross majority of the work should hold. When I figure out how to upload photos on Swedespeed, I'll put up a shot of the CAD model of the adapter.
If the whole trans swap goes under, I can always put the BW35 back in. However, I am a bit jealous of all the 3 pedal 140s on here. We'll see how it goes, but it will be really cool if it all holds up. I expect to do some minor tweaks but the gross majority of the work should hold. When I figure out how to upload photos on Swedespeed, I'll put up a shot of the CAD model of the adapter.
Correct, the T5 does have an aluminum housing. Without fluid it weights 75lbs. Additionally, and most importantly, I can get parts for the T5. Trying to find hard parts (gears, bearings, synchros, etc.) for me has been impossible for the Volvo manuals. I've passed on buying 2 different M410s for that reason.
Wow, where does time go. I thought this thread might have been deleted by now. I am still wrenching away on my 164. In fact, I have completed several things since I posted last in 2017.
Completed:
1. B30 T5 transmission adapter plate
2. T5 transmission rebuild and swap
3. Adapted BW35 cross member
4. Hydraulic clutch kit
5. Flywheel machining and clutch retrofit
6. Modified my pedals to add a clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder
7. Driveshaft conversion from 2 piece to 1 piece. This was needed to work with the T5.
8. All new stainless brake and fuel lines
9. Complete front and rear suspension (bushings, dampers, bearings, brakes, etc...)
10. Mounted 02 sensors in down pipes
11. Mostly completed new EFI wiring harness and mounted initial Megasquirt hardware
12. Finally painted and finished the engine
13. Adapted air cleaner housing to fit a modern TPS
T5 adapter plate
Bell side
![IMG_0927.jpg]()
Trans side
![IMG_0928.jpg]()
The adapter plate came out much better than expected. David Farwell at Vintage Iron Works did the machining for me. After drafting up the plate and working from measurements I made with a ruler and calipers, David sent me a wood prototype. After some very minor tweaks, David cut one out of aluminum and it bolted right up. This took over a year to design and have machined but well worth it. One down side is two of the T5 trans bolts shadowed two of the bolts that mount into the BW35 bell. But, the T5 weighs a little less and I upped the bell bolts a grade, so I think it will be fine. The bolts are likely stronger than the soft, cast aluminum bell housing. Once bolted up, the input shaft on the transmission dropped right into the pilot bearing. I'm pretty pleased with the result and how well things came together.
I did not take any photos of the trans rebuild. This was my first transmission rebuild and it was a bit finnicky to get parts to fit at times. I ended up having to make 1 transmission out of 2 because the drain hole cracked in the main housing. I chose to use a -260 unit out of a 04 or so V6 Mustang. In the end, this was a ton of work and required a few, more expensive tools in order to complete the job.
I misplaced the photo, but the shifter came up through the existing tunnel hole like it was meant to be. I modified my existing cross member to mount the T5. I opted for a RAM hydraulic throwout bearing. The T5 I snagged used a hydraulic bearing as well. Ram makes a kit that works for the T5 but requires some machining to make it work. I routed the hydraulic lines out through the bell on the driver's side. There are several shims that you can't see but RAM has a nicely documented procedure for setting the gap between the bearing and the pressure plate. Being that I went with the T5, it worked out such that the T5 clutch disk is a direct fit on the Volvo pressure plate and flywheel.
![IMG_0781.jpg]()
I built my own bracket to hold the clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder. I was able to route lines over the steering column and out the brake booster bracket. My plan for the reservoir is to mount it to the end of the brake master cylinder. Initial measurements indicate that it will just fit under the hood. Newer cars use the brake master cylinder reservoir for the clutch system but I could not find anything that would work with my original master cylinder. There really isn't a convenient place to mount the reservoir to the firewall either. Here's my pedal assembly and my line routing. I had to angle the master cylinder downward in order to clear the driver side HVAC duct (not pictured).
![IMG_0108.jpg]()
![IMG_0763.jpg]()
Anyway, more to come.
Completed:
1. B30 T5 transmission adapter plate
2. T5 transmission rebuild and swap
3. Adapted BW35 cross member
4. Hydraulic clutch kit
5. Flywheel machining and clutch retrofit
6. Modified my pedals to add a clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder
7. Driveshaft conversion from 2 piece to 1 piece. This was needed to work with the T5.
8. All new stainless brake and fuel lines
9. Complete front and rear suspension (bushings, dampers, bearings, brakes, etc...)
10. Mounted 02 sensors in down pipes
11. Mostly completed new EFI wiring harness and mounted initial Megasquirt hardware
12. Finally painted and finished the engine
13. Adapted air cleaner housing to fit a modern TPS
T5 adapter plate
Bell side
Trans side
The adapter plate came out much better than expected. David Farwell at Vintage Iron Works did the machining for me. After drafting up the plate and working from measurements I made with a ruler and calipers, David sent me a wood prototype. After some very minor tweaks, David cut one out of aluminum and it bolted right up. This took over a year to design and have machined but well worth it. One down side is two of the T5 trans bolts shadowed two of the bolts that mount into the BW35 bell. But, the T5 weighs a little less and I upped the bell bolts a grade, so I think it will be fine. The bolts are likely stronger than the soft, cast aluminum bell housing. Once bolted up, the input shaft on the transmission dropped right into the pilot bearing. I'm pretty pleased with the result and how well things came together.
I did not take any photos of the trans rebuild. This was my first transmission rebuild and it was a bit finnicky to get parts to fit at times. I ended up having to make 1 transmission out of 2 because the drain hole cracked in the main housing. I chose to use a -260 unit out of a 04 or so V6 Mustang. In the end, this was a ton of work and required a few, more expensive tools in order to complete the job.
I misplaced the photo, but the shifter came up through the existing tunnel hole like it was meant to be. I modified my existing cross member to mount the T5. I opted for a RAM hydraulic throwout bearing. The T5 I snagged used a hydraulic bearing as well. Ram makes a kit that works for the T5 but requires some machining to make it work. I routed the hydraulic lines out through the bell on the driver's side. There are several shims that you can't see but RAM has a nicely documented procedure for setting the gap between the bearing and the pressure plate. Being that I went with the T5, it worked out such that the T5 clutch disk is a direct fit on the Volvo pressure plate and flywheel.
I built my own bracket to hold the clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder. I was able to route lines over the steering column and out the brake booster bracket. My plan for the reservoir is to mount it to the end of the brake master cylinder. Initial measurements indicate that it will just fit under the hood. Newer cars use the brake master cylinder reservoir for the clutch system but I could not find anything that would work with my original master cylinder. There really isn't a convenient place to mount the reservoir to the firewall either. Here's my pedal assembly and my line routing. I had to angle the master cylinder downward in order to clear the driver side HVAC duct (not pictured).
Anyway, more to come.
Nice work on the T5 adapter plate and the rest of the modifications. Smart to do a wood prototype to allow for checking of the fit. The clutch pedal box also looks good; however, with the orientation of the lines and ports on the MC I am thinking that bleeding may take a little more effort. If you don't have one already a pressure bleed apparatus may be in order.
Sensor(s) - as in separate sensor in each down pipe? Are you planning on MSIII full sequential? If so, not a problem for EGO control. If you are doing MSII batch fire for the 6 cylinder engine then I think you have a problem and would be better off with a single bung after the down pipes merge.
Indeed, bleeding might be tricky. My reservoir will mount above the clutch master cylinder, so head pressure will at least get fluid to the M/C. I have a Mitty Vac if repeated cycling isn't enough, which works ok.
As of now, I have 2 sensors (1 in each down pipe). The 164 exhaust does not come together until the muffler just before the rear axle. So, I've welded in two bungs. I can weld in a cross over if I really need to, but am hoping it is not needed. My plan is to use MSII with batch fire to control fuel only. Djet fired 1, 3, 5 and 2, 4, 6 in batches. I will mimic that initially. My manifolds collect 1-3 and 4-6. So, adding a second 02, I can sense down stream of each manifold. If that is insufficient or overly problematic, then I'll have to modify. Perhaps I can change my banks to fire 1-3 and 4-6, or I'll have to mix the exhaust streams. I'm hoping to avoid having to tool up for this, however. MSII will allow me to use two AFR tables, as far as I know. I can wire the second 02 input to one of the spare channels.
What specifically do you see being problematic with two 02 sensors and MSII?
1 bung tacked in. I mounted the other where the factory EGR port is on the left pipe.
![IMG_0765.jpg]()
Sensors mocked up in-situ. I opted to use the Spartan II controllers. For the life of me, I can't get the picture to upload right side up. I apologize, but the image is inverted.
![IMG_0825.jpg]()
As of now, I have 2 sensors (1 in each down pipe). The 164 exhaust does not come together until the muffler just before the rear axle. So, I've welded in two bungs. I can weld in a cross over if I really need to, but am hoping it is not needed. My plan is to use MSII with batch fire to control fuel only. Djet fired 1, 3, 5 and 2, 4, 6 in batches. I will mimic that initially. My manifolds collect 1-3 and 4-6. So, adding a second 02, I can sense down stream of each manifold. If that is insufficient or overly problematic, then I'll have to modify. Perhaps I can change my banks to fire 1-3 and 4-6, or I'll have to mix the exhaust streams. I'm hoping to avoid having to tool up for this, however. MSII will allow me to use two AFR tables, as far as I know. I can wire the second 02 input to one of the spare channels.
What specifically do you see being problematic with two 02 sensors and MSII?
1 bung tacked in. I mounted the other where the factory EGR port is on the left pipe.
Sensors mocked up in-situ. I opted to use the Spartan II controllers. For the life of me, I can't get the picture to upload right side up. I apologize, but the image is inverted.
A few more photos of some of the work I've done.
For the Megasquirt retrofit, I opted to use the relay board offered by DIYautotune. I located everything on the right side of the engine bay. I am also opting to use an external MAP. Not pictured is a two-circuit fuse panel to power the 02 sensors from switched 12V power or my stepper motor IAC valve. DIYautotune offers a nice valve body that works with the IAC stepper off of an XJ Jeep Cherokee. These are relatively inexpensive and quite small. Behind the relay board, I mounted a terminal strip to distribute voltage and current to the fuel injectors. Beneath the relay board, I mounted my injector resistors. All of the sensor wires will feed directly across to the intake manifold, along the cylinder 1 intake runner and then down the fuel rail to pick up the injectors. I am wrapping up the wiring soon and will post a completed photo.
I modified my throttle body to accept a TPS off of a late 90s 850. Conveniently, the 850 uses the same shape on the throttle body shaft, which is circular with a flat milled into it. The position of the TPS required me to modify my air cleaner housing for clearance. I'll post a photo of this soon, as well.
![IMG_0900.jpg]()
![IMG_0901.jpg]()
As I mentioned before, I completed freshening up the suspension. I rebuilt and painted the brake calipers; replaced all the suspension bushings; and replaced wheel bearings, seals, and ball joints. I used a single stage ceramic paint offered by Eastwood but it has shown to chip really easily. Unfortunately, I'll just have to live with it because paint is expensive. If I were to do it again, I would have gone with just the regular chassis black, not the ceramic or PPG ShopLine. I also replaced all the fuel and brake lines with stainless. Here's a shot of the rear axle. The caliper paint is also offered by Eastwood, and it is much more resilient. It is their 2k Aero that they sell as engine paint.
![IMG_0618.jpg]()
![IMG_0619.jpg]()
I kept the stock springs and bought some standard equipment dampers. I like the look of lowered 164s but I am still a mile away from being able to play with ride heights. Replacing dampers and springs is pretty easy to do in the future. Sometimes you just have to make a decision to keep the project moving.
For the Megasquirt retrofit, I opted to use the relay board offered by DIYautotune. I located everything on the right side of the engine bay. I am also opting to use an external MAP. Not pictured is a two-circuit fuse panel to power the 02 sensors from switched 12V power or my stepper motor IAC valve. DIYautotune offers a nice valve body that works with the IAC stepper off of an XJ Jeep Cherokee. These are relatively inexpensive and quite small. Behind the relay board, I mounted a terminal strip to distribute voltage and current to the fuel injectors. Beneath the relay board, I mounted my injector resistors. All of the sensor wires will feed directly across to the intake manifold, along the cylinder 1 intake runner and then down the fuel rail to pick up the injectors. I am wrapping up the wiring soon and will post a completed photo.
I modified my throttle body to accept a TPS off of a late 90s 850. Conveniently, the 850 uses the same shape on the throttle body shaft, which is circular with a flat milled into it. The position of the TPS required me to modify my air cleaner housing for clearance. I'll post a photo of this soon, as well.
As I mentioned before, I completed freshening up the suspension. I rebuilt and painted the brake calipers; replaced all the suspension bushings; and replaced wheel bearings, seals, and ball joints. I used a single stage ceramic paint offered by Eastwood but it has shown to chip really easily. Unfortunately, I'll just have to live with it because paint is expensive. If I were to do it again, I would have gone with just the regular chassis black, not the ceramic or PPG ShopLine. I also replaced all the fuel and brake lines with stainless. Here's a shot of the rear axle. The caliper paint is also offered by Eastwood, and it is much more resilient. It is their 2k Aero that they sell as engine paint.
I kept the stock springs and bought some standard equipment dampers. I like the look of lowered 164s but I am still a mile away from being able to play with ride heights. Replacing dampers and springs is pretty easy to do in the future. Sometimes you just have to make a decision to keep the project moving.
Are you running MS Extra or the original B&G code. If you are running MS Extra I think what you are proposing is doable. I was running batch on the original B&G code and switched to sequential on MS Extra so have never experimented with batch on MS Extra.
If you are going to run with the original D jet injector configuration, I would not run with closed loop O2 control because one of the controlled injectors is going to be adjusting mixture on the wrong sensor. You could run open loop and monitor O2 and make manual adjustments to the Ve values to try to get both banks running at the same target AFR. If you want to try closed loop with two tables, I would definitely be inclined to change the Inj 1 and Inj 2 banks to match up exactly with the O2 sensors controlling them. Its batch fire so injector timing is not particularly critical. Hell, the Bosch K jet system injected fuel 100% of the time with no timing. Even on my sequential system injector timing is not particularly (or at all critical). I experimented with timing the injector to fire on to the back of the closed intake valve and into the port when the intake was opened. It made no detectable difference to operation on my B20E. I think OEMs implemented sequential control and were firing onto closed intake valves to enhance emission compliance, not for performance gains.
If you are going to run with the original D jet injector configuration, I would not run with closed loop O2 control because one of the controlled injectors is going to be adjusting mixture on the wrong sensor. You could run open loop and monitor O2 and make manual adjustments to the Ve values to try to get both banks running at the same target AFR. If you want to try closed loop with two tables, I would definitely be inclined to change the Inj 1 and Inj 2 banks to match up exactly with the O2 sensors controlling them. Its batch fire so injector timing is not particularly critical. Hell, the Bosch K jet system injected fuel 100% of the time with no timing. Even on my sequential system injector timing is not particularly (or at all critical). I experimented with timing the injector to fire on to the back of the closed intake valve and into the port when the intake was opened. It made no detectable difference to operation on my B20E. I think OEMs implemented sequential control and were firing onto closed intake valves to enhance emission compliance, not for performance gains.
I changed my banks to fire 1-3 and 4-6 based on your suggestions. It makes more sense based on my 02 sensor arrangement. I want closed loop I'm probably looking at a Fall '20 engine fire. But, things are moving along! Currently wrapping up EFI wiring and chassis wiring. Will post photos when finished. I replaced my Djet harness with one offered by DIYautotune but am reusing my chassis harness. It was in really good shape and am just modifying it to accommodate what I need. Plus having a diagram to go with it is imperative. I shopped around for replacement chassis harnesses, and I did not find kits that really offered much in the way of a circuit diagram unless I went towards the $1000 and up kits. Not even Painless offered much in the way of a general circuit diagram. Just my experience.
Some changes I am making:
Adding fog lights. I was able to score some out of Australia and some new, reproduction ones several years ago. Adding a "fogs on" buzzer too.
New gauge cluster. I bought some Speedhut gauges to do an R-sport inspired arrangement. Plus, the T5 trans has an electronic speedo sender. So needed something new anyway.
Machining a new gauge cluster for the Speedhut gauges. It'll be tight but should fit!
Replacement Speedhut clock for the old VDO Kienzle. The low temp solder to repair the VDO unit is unobtainable!
Eliminating what's left of the seat belt indicator system. However, I am running the seat belt light through the parking brake ground so it still lights up when brake is on. Can't help myself here.
Electric cooling fan. Why not? Plus, Megasquirt makes this really easy with the FIDLE circuit to power a separate fan relay.
Modifying my side markers to be dual filament. I want side markers that blink with the turn signals. Parts on the way and shouldn't be too much to make work.
Incorporating my T5 reverse light switch and electronic speedo sender. Couldn't quite nail down how to wire the hall effect sender, so we'll see how it goes. The BW35 neutral safety switch harness lends itself to both of these really nicely.
1 wire alternator conversion. Exploring a GM 10SI and/or CS130 in lieu of the original Bosch AL66X. The fog lights and electronic cooling fan will put me near 100A service. Plus, who wants an external voltage regulator anymore? Any recommendations?
Am making my start circuit go through a clutch safety switch. Same switch used for brake lights on 140/164. Simply breaks continuity if clutch pedal is up. My T5 does not have neutral switch.
The goal is to have the EFI and chassis wiring COMPLETELY finished by June 1. All that's left, aside from doing the work, is picking out an electric cooling fan.
Some changes I am making:
Adding fog lights. I was able to score some out of Australia and some new, reproduction ones several years ago. Adding a "fogs on" buzzer too.
New gauge cluster. I bought some Speedhut gauges to do an R-sport inspired arrangement. Plus, the T5 trans has an electronic speedo sender. So needed something new anyway.
Machining a new gauge cluster for the Speedhut gauges. It'll be tight but should fit!
Replacement Speedhut clock for the old VDO Kienzle. The low temp solder to repair the VDO unit is unobtainable!
Eliminating what's left of the seat belt indicator system. However, I am running the seat belt light through the parking brake ground so it still lights up when brake is on. Can't help myself here.
Electric cooling fan. Why not? Plus, Megasquirt makes this really easy with the FIDLE circuit to power a separate fan relay.
Modifying my side markers to be dual filament. I want side markers that blink with the turn signals. Parts on the way and shouldn't be too much to make work.
Incorporating my T5 reverse light switch and electronic speedo sender. Couldn't quite nail down how to wire the hall effect sender, so we'll see how it goes. The BW35 neutral safety switch harness lends itself to both of these really nicely.
1 wire alternator conversion. Exploring a GM 10SI and/or CS130 in lieu of the original Bosch AL66X. The fog lights and electronic cooling fan will put me near 100A service. Plus, who wants an external voltage regulator anymore? Any recommendations?
Am making my start circuit go through a clutch safety switch. Same switch used for brake lights on 140/164. Simply breaks continuity if clutch pedal is up. My T5 does not have neutral switch.
The goal is to have the EFI and chassis wiring COMPLETELY finished by June 1. All that's left, aside from doing the work, is picking out an electric cooling fan.
Some photos to go with everything.
EFI wiring harness. This shot has the IAC manifold that I am using. It houses an IAC valve from an XJ jeep cherokee. Inexpensive and reliable. I'll pipe to/from the throttle body for this.
![IMG_0999.jpg]()
"Dent" in air filter housing to accommodate the new TPS. Not my best work but will do the job. I'll seal it with epoxy after paint. Also had to relocate the idle inlet port.
![IMG_0976.jpg]()
Finally, I settled on the following for a new gauge package. I could not mimic the R sport cluster as close as I wanted to due to size. This is what I ended up with in order to get all six gauges and an odometer. I like it. I will be machining the mount out of 16ga steel here as soon as the COVID19 social distancing requirements lift. I found some LED indicators from Alpinetech that I like. The "!" indicator is the brake failure from the front proportioning valve.
![Gauges.JPG]()
The dashed line is the opening in my dash and the outer solid line is the perimeter of my factory cluster. These are dimensioned in the print below.
![Gauges print.JPG]()
In order to mount the new dash panel, I'll make some tabs to weld on to reuse the lower two cluster holes and add one on each side near the top. There are some things about Speedhut gauges that I don't like but they were the best I could find for what I wanted. New Vintage has some nice stuff if anyone is in the market. They can also make custom indicators if the Alpinetech LEDs are too hokey. I also bought a clock from speedhut that closely matches the old VDO Kienzle. It will fit in the dash with a small adapter that I'll also machine soon.
![Clock.JPG]()
Otherwise, still wiring. I have most everything finished. I am waiting on some hardware before I can completely wrap things up. I also finally found an electric fan that would fit in my existing space. Once everything is wrapped up I'll post some more photos.
EFI wiring harness. This shot has the IAC manifold that I am using. It houses an IAC valve from an XJ jeep cherokee. Inexpensive and reliable. I'll pipe to/from the throttle body for this.
"Dent" in air filter housing to accommodate the new TPS. Not my best work but will do the job. I'll seal it with epoxy after paint. Also had to relocate the idle inlet port.
Finally, I settled on the following for a new gauge package. I could not mimic the R sport cluster as close as I wanted to due to size. This is what I ended up with in order to get all six gauges and an odometer. I like it. I will be machining the mount out of 16ga steel here as soon as the COVID19 social distancing requirements lift. I found some LED indicators from Alpinetech that I like. The "!" indicator is the brake failure from the front proportioning valve.
The dashed line is the opening in my dash and the outer solid line is the perimeter of my factory cluster. These are dimensioned in the print below.
In order to mount the new dash panel, I'll make some tabs to weld on to reuse the lower two cluster holes and add one on each side near the top. There are some things about Speedhut gauges that I don't like but they were the best I could find for what I wanted. New Vintage has some nice stuff if anyone is in the market. They can also make custom indicators if the Alpinetech LEDs are too hokey. I also bought a clock from speedhut that closely matches the old VDO Kienzle. It will fit in the dash with a small adapter that I'll also machine soon.
Otherwise, still wiring. I have most everything finished. I am waiting on some hardware before I can completely wrap things up. I also finally found an electric fan that would fit in my existing space. Once everything is wrapped up I'll post some more photos.
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