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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I drive a 2011 Volvo S40 and I recently purchased these Hikari Ultra LED bulbs from Amazon. These are different from LED retrofits of the past in that the LEDs are positioned on the bulb structure in such a manner that they mimic the placement of a halogen filament inside the lens housing. They do a very good job of it too. I did not have to adjust my headlight focus at all.

Unfortunately I do not have any before or after photos at this time; I am at work. Your vehicle's focus will look different than mine anyway because I have a lens trim piece loose on the left assembly and the shop shifted the focus when they repaired the car after a deer impact. The lens piece does not affect projection but it does obstruct a minor amount of light in the center of the car. I DID make note in my garage of where the performance halogens were shining versus where the LEDs shine after install and it was the same with no bleed-over or scattering of the light.

You will get a Bulb failure error which can be corrected by a pair of resistors. The manufacturer sent me a link to the ones I needed and refunded me the cost of them after purchasing them ($10.99 USD). The focus of the light is identical to the halogen bulbs but they are significantly brighter that the Sylvania Silverstar ZXE bulbs I had been running. Just make sure to follow the installation and orientation instructions in the included manual. They direct you to install them so that the flat part of the bulb that has the LEDs on it is at a 90 degree angle inside the housing. I found on my pair that the wire going into the bulb connects at the same point as the flat side of the LED holding panel. I put them in and rotated that part so it sits directly on top of the bulb when it is in the assembly. Very easy to do; they give you almost 90 degrees of rotation before bottoming out and engaging the locking mechanism on the bulb. As I'm sure some of you (read MOST) can relate, the stock lights suck. I got tired of buying $80 ZXE bulbs every year and went to these. I have had them installed for about 2 weeks now with no issues.

The installation was very easy and simple. They are a plug and play bulb; I have not had the dealer disable DRL yet, but I plan to do that at some point to save the life on the bulbs and such. The drivers and bulbs have a 2 year (IIRC, check Amazon to be sure) warranty but will likely outlast that knowing LEDs. I plugged the resistor into the headlight housing's wiring harness, then the resistor into the driver which then goes into the bulb. I used a bit of Dielectric grease on all of the connections that come apart, even the connection from the driver to the LED. The bulbs have a fan on the back of them that runs and you can hear when the lights are on and the car isn't running. It is not very loud at all though and is a mild hum. I prefer the fans due to extra air flow in the enclosure. I was able to fit the resistor, the driver, and the bulb all inside of the housing and close the lid on it properly; no drilling, cutting, modding etc required and is completely reversible if you decide to go back to stock.

I know there is another very old thread about HID upgrades on the P1 platform on here and how a gentleman built an SKBOWE. I looked into that and was concerned about that issue with these at first. I then researched how LED drivers worked and after speaking with some electrical AND car guys we came to the conclusion that EMI backfeed is not an issue on these because there is no voltage spike on LEDs like there is on HIDs. The LEDs do not require a massive voltage spike to ignite the bulb which is hampered by the PWM system. Instead, the LED drivers simply filter the power and keep it constant at what the bulb needs to correctly operate. The reason for the error-canceling resistors is because the bulbs draw a lower enough amount of power that it fools the computer into thinking the bulb is failed.

TLDR: If you want an EXCELLENT headlight upgrade for your P1, look no further than the Hikari Ultra LED and do not worry about buying/building an SKBOWE system or lens focusing/light scatter issues. You will only need to email Hikari after purchase to get the resistors for free to solve the bulb failure dash warning.
 

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Thanks bud. Searching a local supplier in South Africa...if not found then I will go the route of Amazon. Pls send me email of Hikari to followup on supply and resistors?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Their email is in the manual they send with the bulbs.

Also, found out the hard way you need to mount the resistors outside the headlight assembly to a metal part in the engine bay. They get very hot. I opened mine up to show a buddy and they had melted part of the assembly. Fortunately it did not damage the functionality of it in any way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I ordered a set of these today.
Make sure you see my info above about NOT putting the resistors inside the plastic assembly, if you order them. If the light out warning doesn't bother you, then carry on, otherwise you'll need to mount them to a metal part in the engine bay.
 

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Their email is in the manual they send with the bulbs.

Also, found out the hard way you need to mount the resistors outside the headlight assembly to a metal part in the engine bay. They get very hot. I opened mine up to show a buddy and they had melted part of the assembly. Fortunately it did not damage the functionality of it in any way.
Please for the sake of expediency, send me their email address?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

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Make sure you see my info above about NOT putting the resistors inside the plastic assembly, if you order them. If the light out warning doesn't bother you, then carry on, otherwise you'll need to mount them to a metal part in the engine bay.
I saw your note on the resistor outside the housing. The bulb out light will bother the bejesus out of me. I will make an aluminum base heat sink and find a place to locate it.

Did you do anything for high beams?
 

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Got my LED bulbs installed and they are a great improvement. Was easy upgrade. I did get the resistors and mounted them to the upper cross support.
 

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I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GKPR452?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image $22.20 lightning deal a few days ago. For the low beam location. I need to really scope them out, but they plugged right in and worked, as confirmed by reviewers. Don't think I'll bother with the resistor. Granted, they aren't as bright as the OP, but according to my mobile phone light sensor, they are just a tick dimmer than my hacked 65W bulbs. Not even 5% less. Will report back if color and beam pattern result in a net gain. Putting them in the XC60, too. Will match the led markers a ton better.
 

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I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GKPR452?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image $22.20 lightning deal a few days ago. For the low beam location. I need to really scope them out, but they plugged right in and worked, as confirmed by reviewers. Don't think I'll bother with the resistor. Granted, they aren't as bright as the OP, but according to my mobile phone light sensor, they are just a tick dimmer than my hacked 65W bulbs. Not even 5% less. Will report back if color and beam pattern result in a net gain. Putting them in the XC60, too. Will match the led markers a ton better.
Will be interesting to see if the PWM shortens their driver life.
 

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Emailed customer service about the resistors and a coupon (just in case). Looking forward to better lights. I'll update once they're in with the resistors. Thanks MosinMan!
 

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For those of you running the resistors, how did you handle the dust shield?
I presume you mean the cover to access that bulbs on the back of the headlamp assembly. I just ran the wires over the lip at the bottom of the opening and put the cover on. So far no issues or complaints. I still think these are great and started to use in other vehicles.
 

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If I understand it correctly, you don't have a tight seal now due to wires running through the back cover. If that's the case, you're bound to have issues with condensation and dust build up in the headlight assembly.
 

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If I understand it correctly, you don't have a tight seal now due to wires running through the back cover. If that's the case, you're bound to have issues with condensation and dust build up in the headlight assembly.
If this is the case, I have not seen this in the 4 months that I have had this set up. So I think I have the a tight seal. If I do have a condensation issue I will recheck my set up and make a better seal.
 

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Is this a bigger bother than I think it is? I'd rather lighten the load on my alternator and push one button to clear the message. I'll have to test and see if it goes away on its own anyhow.

Of course, I've gotten used to turning off traction control anyhow. Now _that_ was a bother. Turns out with the LSD, traction control isn't so bad.
 
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