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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
When insurance totaled my beloved Mazda (A granny, her Corolla, and a red light took care of that), Craigslist became my best friend. With the boxes checked for 5 and 6 cylinder manual transmission vehicles and a college student budget, I set out on my search. Long story short, I stumbled upon an '01 Volvo V70 manual trans. with 125k miles. In dire need of a car, and with no other contenders in sight, I purchased it dirt cheap from a (rather shady) dealer.

I don't know what it is about wagons, but us car enthusiasts sure have a soft spot for 'em. Maybe it's the notoriety of owning one? Perhaps because they're practical yet fun? Or is it as simple as not getting pulled over because cops assume I'm late to pick up my kids from practice? Who knows. But I digress. I didn't hesitate to put the wagon to work, even drove the thing to my job on purchase day (a one-hour commute). I liked the peppy little 5 cylinder engine and its unique engine note. The transmission wasn't fussy when rushed, was smooth and easy to shift. I was impressed with the INSANE amount of cargo capacity, and (above all by far) the SEATS in this thing are the most comfortable damn things I've sat in (even a guy as young as I can appreciate them.

What are my plans for this car? So far...

-Already: plasti-dipped bumpers, skirts, rims, added mudflaps, roofbasket, redsled plate, etc.
-Driving lights/fogs (Needed, but really just for show)
-Exhaust system for sure (far too quiet)
-Somewhere to plug my iPod in
-Intake?
-Skid plate/suspension lift? (I frequent the rough stuff)
-IPD Swaybar end links? Might be a good weekend project

I'll probably add more things to the list as time goes on, but for now that's just it. Let me know what you think. Below are some photos of how it sits today. More to come. I've owned it for a few months now, and though it gave me a little trouble (preventive maintenance issues the previous owners failed to address), I'm happy with it. It's sure growing on me, enough so that once I've saved up and purchase something more driver oriented, I may even just keep it (that resale value though :thumbdown:).

It really thinks it's an XC70. Sometimes I wish it were... but I can't have less than three pedals, no way. #racecar




 

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Locked in! This wagon is a beaut. Can't wait to see what's to come...
 

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Red mudflaps.....NO WAY!
 

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Very cool build so far. Where in NC are you? Raleigh here! I've got a VIDA DICE unit if you're ever in need and not to far away to make the drive. Exhaust and intake might be counter-productive. N/A motors such as these require backpressure to produce good power. One forum I was on (forget which) there was a guy with a n/a that did a custom cat-back with a magnaflow (straight-through design) and lost serious power. Other posters said a flowmaster (baffled design) would have worked better, though possibly still to the detriment of power unless more mods were done, which really isn't worth it on this engine. I've also read the intake works quite well for our engines, so changing that out will likely result in a loss of torque, not offset by enough of a gain in top-end horsepower. So, I'd caution a lot of research before spending money on power out of these n/a engines. Keep in mind the euro version was 140hp, and they massaged another 28hp out of them to get the stateside versions to 168. Massage away, but do it judiciously and with a deep pocket.
 

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N/A motors such as these require backpressure to produce good power. One forum I was on (forget which) there was a guy with a n/a that did a custom cat-back with a magnaflow (straight-through design) and lost serious power. Other posters said a flowmaster (baffled design) would have worked better.
Not correct. My lawnmower runs better without a muffler :p.

From my understanding.

First. the catalytic converter on it's own will create quite a bit of back pressure.

Second. People believe that NA engines require back pressure because of bro dudes who will fit 3" pipe on to their NA engines and will notice a loss in power, so the bro dudes mistake this for an issues with back pressure and assumes baffles are the answer. Baffles obstruct flow. If you want more HP you need better flow.

Third. Increasing the pipes diameter increases it's volume, this will reduce the velocity of the exhaust gases exiting the engine, have turbulent flow, and will reduce the scavenging affect. Smaller diameter pipe will have less volume, which will (in a properly tuned exhaust system) will increase the velocity of the exiting gases, have laminar flow, and will increasing the scavenging affect. This is why people attribute power losses to back pressure when the real issue is the exhaust system tuning. The scavenging affect is beneficial as it will help purge the cylinder of exhaust gases and will create a partial vacuum within the cylinder, which will allow for more air mass to enter the cylinder on the intake stroke (in some instances if this air mass is not accounted in the engines tuning it can run slightly lean and may burn valves, but that shouldn't be an issue on your Volvo).

Forth. When a catback system is fitted on to a vehicle most will opt for a larger diameter pipe thinking it will improve flow. In reality the pipe's diameter should be reduced the further downstream to maintain velocity of the exiting gasses. As the exhaust gasses travel the length of the exhaust system it cools, causing the gasses to reduce volume, so a smaller diameter pipe can be used to effectively move the gasses produced by the engine while maintaining laminar flow.

For turbocharged vehicles it's completely different. You want as open a design post turbo to reduce back pressure on the turbine.
 

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Welcome!

Media: GROM has various options for media connectivity. You can do auxiliary, Bluetooth or whatever Apple uses.

Exhaust: people have deleted the resonator ("JRL mod") but if that's not loud enough, you can delete the rear muffler: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?p=2586915

Skidplate: a few of us have the IPD skidplate. It's thick aluminum and works well. I've already scraped it driving down a lane with a high crown
 

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Not correct. My lawnmower runs better without a muffler :p.

From my understanding.

First. the catalytic converter on it's own will create quite a bit of back pressure.

Second. People believe that NA engines require back pressure because of bro dudes who will fit 3" pipe on to their NA engines and will notice a loss in power, so the bro dudes mistake this for an issues with back pressure and assumes baffles are the answer. Baffles obstruct flow. If you want more HP you need better flow.

Third. Increasing the pipes diameter increases it's volume, this will reduce the velocity of the exhaust gases exiting the engine, have turbulent flow, and will reduce the scavenging affect. Smaller diameter pipe will have less volume, which will (in a properly tuned exhaust system) will increase the velocity of the exiting gases, have laminar flow, and will increasing the scavenging affect. This is why people attribute power losses to back pressure when the real issue is the exhaust system tuning. The scavenging affect is beneficial as it will help purge the cylinder of exhaust gases and will create a partial vacuum within the cylinder, which will allow for more air mass to enter the cylinder on the intake stroke (in some instances if this air mass is not accounted in the engines tuning it can run slightly lean and may burn valves, but that shouldn't be an issue on your Volvo).

Forth. When a catback system is fitted on to a vehicle most will opt for a larger diameter pipe thinking it will improve flow. In reality the pipe's diameter should be reduced the further downstream to maintain velocity of the exiting gasses. As the exhaust gasses travel the length of the exhaust system it cools, causing the gasses to reduce volume, so a smaller diameter pipe can be used to effectively move the gasses produced by the engine while maintaining laminar flow.

For turbocharged vehicles it's completely different. You want as open a design post turbo to reduce back pressure on the turbine.
Not true. An NA engine requires back pressure. Completely relieving it of back pressure will lose HP. You will also lose torque. You can tune for torque or HP simply by changing the exhaust diameter, but a free flowing exhaust will be a net loss.
 

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Not true. An NA engine requires back pressure. Completely relieving it of back pressure will lose HP. You will also lose torque. You can tune for torque or HP simply by changing the exhaust diameter, but a free flowing exhaust will be a net loss.
So this is not correct?

Increasing the pipes diameter increases it's volume, this will reduce the velocity of the exhaust gases exiting the engine, have turbulent flow, and will reduce the scavenging affect. Smaller diameter pipe will have less volume, which will (in a properly tuned exhaust system) will increase the velocity of the exiting gases, have laminar flow, and will increasing the scavenging affect. This is why people attribute power losses to back pressure when the real issue is the exhaust system tuning.
I did not say "free flowing" I said "in a properly tuned exhaust system". A smaller diameter pipe will create some back pressure without obstructing flow, unlike baffles. You can have a straight through pipe exhaust if it is designed appropriately for the engines power band.

I'm not meaning to sound hostile (text is so devoid of emotion) so here's some smiles :) ;) I know my wording is a bit chopped up, but that's the basics.
 

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I'm not trying to be confrontational either. :)

A free flowing exhaust on an NA engine is not desirable. You will make more horsepower and torque with back pressure. Varying the level of back pressure changes the torque/ hp ratio.

I see what your saying and you're correct, a properly tuned system, which for an NA engine needs the back pressure.

As you mentioned a turbocharged engine likes it as free as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi, guys! Thanks for all your input. I really love this forum. In the short time I've been on here, it really has been such a helpful resource.

In regards to the exhaust, I am considering a resonator delete. I don't think a muffler delete is in the cards for me (my fears are that it would sound too much like a Honda civic fart canon... trying to stay away from the rice). I think I'll put on a nicer muffler too. The ideal sound would be a nice, audible engine note that can be heard even at low rpm.

JRL, is that a yay or nay on the red flaps? I bought them black. I sprayed them red/cut them to size myself (So they're staying either way hahaha).

frknvgn, I'm in Durham, commute to Raleigh daily. I may just take you up on that VIDA DICE offer sometime. I'm correct in assuming I'll need it to activate the fogs? Keep the comments coming! I love this stuff.

Also, the sticker-bombed wind faring will be gone soon (I'm 19 and have never had a roof basket, so give me a break. I just had to give it a try at least once). I'm going back to black on the faring and will be mounting some driving lights to the basket.
 

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Bennett15ify,
I'm no expert on DICE, so activating fogs is something I haven't tried to do yet, and unless there's a step-by-step write-up, I'd be scared to mess something up, but if you're hitting the keys then I guess it's up to you. I've just used it for engine code diagnosis and SRS light clearing. PM me if you want to plug in and fix/diagnose/turn-on something. Also, Swedish Imports in Durham is one hell of a good shop. They only do Volvos and Saabs and were always great to me, so if you need an expert locally, there you go. I also sort of know one of their techs, and he might be up for side-work as techs often are.

Erik
 

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The idea of JRL saying "NO WAY!" In a positive and excited manner seems unlikely ;-) but only the man himself can say for sure. I like em a lot though do think a deeper red might better suit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Erik,

I've been to Swedish Imports. I was impressed with their shop and thought their service and communication was wonderful. However, they're much too pricey for me! If there's ever something I can't do myself, I head over to Becker automotive on Hillsborough road in downtown. They specialize in Volvo. Their customer service is great and they're FAR cheaper than Swedish Imports (thus far). They sliced my quoted $3,100 repair list (from Swedish Imports) down to just $1,700 and even eliminated one or two issues for free. They only use OEM parts. I think they're cheaper mainly because they pull parts from donor cars sitting in the yard. I don't know if they have a VIDA unit, haven't asked (though I really don't really know anything about it myself). I'm sure they do, but I'd have to ask. And I DON'T TRUST MYSELF AROUND AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL THINGY'S. YIKES.

Young Satchel,

I feel. I wish they were a darker shade, but you've no idea the struggle it was getting them on. My wheel lugs have lost their coating, so it's almost friken impossible to take them off. I broke the wrench AND its replacement before I got them all off. Not even the shop could get 'em off with the impact gun (had to use a breaker bar and two bug guys). I have a feeling the OEM lugs are expensive... I'll probably go aftermarket and get something from Amazon.

*Anyone know what size the lugs are on an '01 V70? I'd like to know ASAP.
 

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IPD has a whole bunch of choices both OEM and aftermarket. If you don't already have your car "in the garage" over there, I'd just sign up quick and do that. Saves me a bunch of time figuring out what works on my car. See if this works:

http://www.ipdusa.com/prodtype.asp?VL=340 (I typed in your wagon)

Edit: argh this just reminded me I forgot to get some nice new ones for the new wheel set that just arrived. Pretty eager to install the new rims so I may just use my old rusty-headed ones and swap out for some nice new black one's later on...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So, update on the Volvo. CLOGGED PCV SYSTEM. I did the glove/balloon test to check for positive pressure in the block and man did that glove fill up :( Also a little bit of white smoke comes out if I remove the dipstick. Guess I know what I'm saving up for... Anyone know the specifics of what a clogged PCV entails/what is required to fix it/cost? Also, should I chance driving it until I get it looked at? (I drive it hard and fast).

Also... Thanks for the link, Erik! I didn't even think to go on IPD. I wish they offered a full set rather than ordering 20. Don't know if I'll spend the $60+shipping on IPD just for wheel lugs, but I'll let you know. There's a set on Amazon for $50+free shipping that fits my car. Hmmmm.
 

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Wheel bolts are M14x1.5. The factory bolts have a 19mm head while most aftermarket bolts are 17mm.

I'd fix the PCV asap because you risk blowing out engine seals. Some recommend driving without the dipstick to alleviate the pressure.

I think the kits range from $150-200 on FCP. I haven't done it myself but it appears more tedious than difficult as the intake manifold has to be removed
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks, freedomfries! Super helpful tips. And FINALLY someone who just gives me what I'm looking for (rather than rant on and on about how I'm doing something wrong, etc.).

Holy Lord, that is one detailed reply! That's excellent. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, Erik. I'll have to check the spark plugs tomorrow. It took a few more cranks to start a couple times just recently (like it wasn't getting spark), so I think what has happened is the system has gotten clogged to the point of where the oil is forcing its way past the seams between the top and bottom half of the head, just like Antherzoll said. If he's right, it doesn't seem as if I'm in any danger of blowing any major seals. But Woody and i will head over to Beckers and see what they can do. I don't think it would be wise to do this project myself, as I still consider myself a novice at Volvo'ing. Plus being without a car really handicaps me. Tomorrow is my day off this week, so I'll see what the garage can do for me. Crossing my fingers it isn't too outrageously expensive (if it is then I might reconsider doing the work myself).
 
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