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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I just got new tires. I've had them balanced 4 times in the past two weeks, twice with the bang on weights and twice with sticky weights. I'm not losing weights, and every single time they got rebalanced, the weights end up being needed in different spots.

Also, the wheels I have on my S40 are NOT the right center bore, but they are Volvo wheels. I can't seem to find a hub centric ring that will work for the ~2mm gap.

After I initially had the tires replaced, one of the wheels shook 4 of the 5 lug nuts loose, and i damn near lost my wheel. Is it possible that I may have bent something when that happened?
 

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Definitely possible, but you're always going to get imbalance when you don't have a hubcentric ring (at a minimum). In my experience, even a hubcentric ring isn't a guarantee of a vibration free ride. If you have a vibration issue, have the wheel checked for runout and the tire for radial imbalance - I'd recommend a road force balance.
 

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every single time they got rebalanced, the weights end up being needed in different spots.
This is a red flag for the people balancing the wheel. Are we talking +/- 1" +/- 5gr or totally different spots & weights? If the wheel is mounted correctly to a properly calibrated machine this will not be the case. An easy check for the shop is to balance the wheel, turn it 90* on the machine & check the balance again. Is your mounting surface & hub bore in good shape?

An always vibrating wheel could also indicate it's bent. Just run your hand around both the inner & outer bead areas. You will be able to detect any bends fairly easily. They usually occur on the inside.

You admit your wheels are not hub centric. Unless you are very careful when mounting the wheel tightening lug nuts in stages, evenly, etc. the wheel will not center properly. I highly recommend you find some rings. At the very least they will save you a bunch of time when installing wheels. I'm sure someone will chime in with a link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I should probably be more specific about when the baaaaaad vibration happens. Starting from around 35 mph or so, and almost exclusively when I'm either trying to go a little faster (anything more than "keeping constant speed" on the throttle) or coasting in gear.

So far I've replaced both control arms, sway bar links, and right side axle.

I have awd and 6 speed.

Thanks for both of your replies so far. After a little more searching, I did find a company that machines a few hundred different sizes and has one that should work, so I ordered them.
 

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That sounds more like an axle issue or motor mount issue. If it was the tires/wheels, it would be constant regardless of engine speed.
 

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How old are the tires (never mind, just read the first thread)? A belt could have jumped inside the tire. It will cause a wobbling, but only at certain speeds (just like an unbalanced tire will). Since they are new and causing problems, what about getting the wobbly ones replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quick test on the way home from work - it seems to be engine load and engine speed related...but only in 3rd gear and up.

Mercdude- if it was an axle issue, wouldn't I hear a clicking or something in turns?

This is so confusing. Maybe I'll take it to a different shop next week, at least to find out what the actual issue is. :confused:

This stuff tends to get expensive quickly though, and that just plain sucks.
 

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that's when the CV joint goes bad, the axle themselves can be bad or not balanced properly and will cause vibration - did you replace the axle with a OEM / Volvo one?
 

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Yup, Vibration is generally caused by the inner CV which will not make any noise as it doesn't pivot near as much as the outer. These can be quite difficult to diagnose & often it's by process of elimination. Your symptom of "vibration under power" is classic though. It will feel like it's coming from the center of the car & not any specific corner.
 

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Definitely take it for a "second opinion". Here's another red flag.
one of the wheels shook 4 of the 5 lug nuts loose
This doesn't happen, you can ride rumble strips all day. They weren't tightened correctly. Yes, your wheel bolt tapers may be hogged out at this point. With no centering ring this can be an issue.
It sounds like you are not a real DIY kind of guy & I'm sure your head is spinning at this point. Mechanic says this, forum guy says this. Go back to basics. When did this vibration start & what things were done to correct it? Did they actually correct it? Etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, I got the axle from a 45k mile parts car and have had it in for about 3k miles over the past year or so. I had AWD problems with mismatched tires for a short time, and parked it until I had time to do anything with it.

So, seeing as I still have three drive axles with 120k on them, how do I figure out which one is (potentially) the culprit? I mean, I'd love to buy brand new Volvo brand every part that might show wear, it's not exactly in the stars at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Definitely take it for a "second opinion". Here's another red flag.

This doesn't happen, you can ride rumble strips all day. They weren't tightened correctly. Yes, your wheel bolt tapers may be hogged out at this point. With no centering ring this can be an issue.
It sounds like you are not a real DIY kind of guy & I'm sure your head is spinning at this point. Mechanic says this, forum guy says this. Go back to basics. When did this vibration start & what things were done to correct it? Did they actually correct it? Etc.
Here's the thing - I am kind of a DIY guy, but this is something I've never come across before. As far as the lug nuts - the place that replaced the tires did so at inspection time. They use pre-set torque wrenches to tighten the nuts (I didn't know this before the lugnuts came loose).

I changed the control arms and got the new tires, thinking that they would fix the vibrations I was feeling. I actually JUST realized the rims had the wrong center bore when I was doing the CA's, but with such a tiny gap, and never experiencing the "slap" sound typical with a wrong-sized wheel, I didn't think much of it.
 

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By deduction I will guess that if the RF axle was replaced, the culprit (assuming it's an CV axle issue) is the LF axle. Most likely not a LR/RR axle issue because they are only engaged when slipping occurs at the front wheels. That symptom would show if you experienced vibration in 1/2nd gear, but not higher gears where slipping is less of an issue. Also, something to rule out is the driveshaft. Make sure, though, that your engine mounts are in good shape.
 

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Oh, you won't get a slapping sound with a wrong-bore gap that small, just vibration (Trust me, I know). You get that because the wheel isn't 'centered' on the axle and artificially creates a high/low spot that is felt as a vibration, akin to poor radial trueness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oh, you won't get a slapping sound with a wrong-bore gap that small, just vibration (Trust me, I know). You get that because the wheel isn't 'centered' on the axle and artificially creates a high/low spot that is felt as a vibration, akin to poor radial trueness.
Would this be at ALL speeds?
 

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I'm just going to throw this out there... I'm experiencing terrible vibrations when accelerating hard in 3rd gear as well. Started the day after I mounted new tires and had them balanced. I'm guessing I either lost wheel weights, they weren't balanced correctly, or my alignment is off (which I know it is).

I rebuilt my axles a few weeks prior and didn't have any vibrations until the new tires came along.
 

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Then you should determine what speeds you are doing in 3rd gear under hard acceleration - probably 60-65mph (?). That's right around where poorly balanced tires start showing their true colors.
 

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Then you should determine what speeds you are doing in 3rd gear under hard acceleration - probably 60-65mph (?). That's right around where poorly balanced tires start showing their true colors.
That's exactly the point, thanks for the tip.
Maybe more like 50-70ish range. Highway cruising and accelerating beyond that, perfectly smooth.

I'll probably have them rebalanced in the next few weeks... it's just a matter of finding the time!
 

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On top of what your other problems may be find yourself centering rings. or go to a machine shop and have them make you some rings.

Our Cars are 63.4mm HUB, the bigger S60 and S80 are 65.1 and the XCs are 67.1mm you can find a 65.1 to 63.4 spacers on ebay usually, i have found some very random sizes.

I used my Catera Wheels 5x110 on my volvo with a 65.1 to 63.4 but had to order them from china. Also had to get wobbly bolts to fit the 108. it worked without any vibration!!!

Rings cost me around 15$ and took 2 weeks to get from china.
 
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