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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought BlackVue DR900S dashcam that has both front and rear cameras. I'm trying to figure out how run the wiring from the front camera to power socket and also to the rear camera without interfering with any of airbags. I'm thinking of running the wire along the A-pillar and behind the fuse box in passenger well area to the power socket. But I couldn't find instructions to remove the cover for A-Pillar safely. For the rear camera, I'm thinking of running the wire alongside the door edge rubber trims and via the plastic conduits to the tailgate. Would that interfere with airbags? Has anyone done it before? Detailed instructions would be good.

PS: I'm not looking to hardwire it yet. maybe down the road I would look into a battery pack for that.
 

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Here are the steps that I followed to hardwire the A119S dash cam and V1 radar detector.

I've had the V1 radar detector for many years and I already had the hardwire kit for it. I bought the A119S dash cam new from Amazon for about $120 CAD. I deliberately chose NOT to get the GPS module because I don't want GPS information embedded in my dash cam videos. I also needed some additional supplies to be able to connect everything to the XC90's fuse box. The right angle mini USB cable allowed the wire to hide more easily than the one that came with the camera:



Products used (from Amazon.ca):
  • HitCar DC 12V to 5V 3A Power Inverter Mini / Micro USB DC 3.5 Hard Wired Converter Kit Car Charger Cable for GPS Tablet Phone PDA DVR Recorder (Dual Female USB)
  • Etopars 5 X Car Vehicle 12V 24V Car Motor Add-a-circuit MICRO2 ATR Fuse Holder Adapter 15A

Tucking in the wire around the trim at the top of the windshield was easy:



Every post I read about accessing the fuse box under the glove compartment mention how hard it was to pull back the carpet. Maybe because of that, I actually found it surprisingly easy :D:



What was harder was finding a fuse slot that was not powered all the time. I made a compromise, using two fuse slots that are not used in my R-Design trim: One for massage seats (in the Inscription trim) for the dash cam and another for Rear Seat systems (in the Excellence trim) for the radar detector. I think the one for the radar detector is on all the time, but that's OK because I can power the V1 on and off easily. There was actually a fuse for a TV but that also seemed to be powered all the time. I wonder if I should use it instead because there must be some kind of cutoff timer for someone using a TV in the XC90! The connection for the ground wire was very easy to find. (Note: All the fuse slots were filled, even ones that were not specified to have any function. There's one missing in the picture because I already pulled it out and tested the Add-A-Circuit.)



Here's what it looks like with the Add-A-Circuit fuses installed, just before I put the cover back on. The ground connection is outside the fuse box:



I wasn't sure about the next step, removing the A-Pillar cover and running the wires down, but it is extremely important not to interfere with the air bag system. The cover is easy to remove because it is only held by one 8mm bolt and two clips. With a firm grip and a little wiggling, it comes right off:



I've seen some people run wires across the top of the A-pillar and go down the outside under the weather strip. DO NOT DO THIS! You can see when the cover is removed that if you do this the wire will go right across the air bag. I have no idea how that will affect the way the air bag will deploy but I don't think it would be good.

I used one zip tie at the bottom to keep the wires neat and tidy:



Before I put the A-pillar cover back on, I ran the wires under the side trim so that everything remains hidden:



So this is what I have under the glove compartment now:



The V1 hardwire kit comes with a connection for the hidden display which I have always used in the past, but I'm not sure I will do in the XC90. But I stuck it with double-sided tape in an easily accessible place so that I can add it any time. There are two hardwired USB ports available there now.

The finished installation has all the wires hidden except for right behind the rear view mirror and underneath the glove compartment which is not visible unless you stick you head under there :D:



Reference page for all images:
Link to instructions

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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That is pretty thorough write up. I tapped the v1 into the mirror. That was really easy. I’ve been thinking of add dash cam. Thanks for write up
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the photos and detailed instructions. Any thoughts on how to run the wiring for rear camera?
 

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Thanks for the photos and detailed instructions. Any thoughts on how to run the wiring for rear camera?
I place the wire along the underside of the side trim between the seats and the doors, then up alongside the bottom carpeting of the 3rd row seat, under the rear cargo floor panel, up the seal of the rear hatch, and then add some wire slack before mounting a rearview camera on the surface of the rear hatch's glass window:

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That sounds like a good idea and avoids interfering with safety systems.

I would like pass the wiring through the rubber tubes connecting the rear window glass so that wires aren't hanging and achieve a cleaner install. Need to figure out how to remove the liner though.
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Trunk Crossover suv
 

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That's the exact cam I set up. You can see some pics in this thread

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...share_tid=473209&share_fid=17438&share_type=t

I routed the back cam cable through under the trunk weather strip into headliner (zip tied to back of wire harness tubes) then along the headliner/weather stripping to the front and eventually down to passenger foot well fuse box. The front goes in between window and dashboard down the dashboard also into foot well. I have the power magic pro going from fuse box to glove box so you can turn it on off easily but without seeing the device.

Let me know if you want any detailed pictures and I can go out in garage and take them and send them along if it would help.

Sent from my BKL-L04 using Tapatalk
 

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That sounds like a good idea and avoids interfering with safety systems.

I would like pass the wiring through the rubber tubes connecting the rear window glass so that wires aren't hanging and achieve a cleaner install. Need to figure out how to remove the liner though.
I'm planning to do that long term, to snake the camera outside of the vehicle.

You can use the installation instruction for Part # 32259555 or 31650146 (this link), page 31 onwards. Prior pages also help give a clue on which panels to remove. It looked quite involved, so I simply hid the wires along trim pieces when I installed my rear camera. My plan was once I liked how the camera works, I will do a more permanent install like that.
 

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That sounds like a good idea and avoids interfering with safety systems.

I would like pass the wiring through the rubber tubes connecting the rear window glass so that wires aren't hanging and achieve a cleaner install. Need to figure out how to remove the liner though.
Did you end up installing the DR900S front camera yet? Where did you end up placing it (got photos?)? I am prepping to do the same on a new S90 I am picking up and trying to determine where the front camera can go since it has WiFi and that can interfere with the safety sensors on the top of the windshield.
 

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Did you end up installing the DR900S front camera yet? Where did you end up placing it (got photos?)?
The right side gets a little clipped from the radar box but is ok. A BlendMount mount on the rear mirror stem (search for the post with its pix) would remove the clipping but the camera will be more noticeable.

 

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The right side gets a little clipped from the radar box but is ok. A BlendMount mount on the rear mirror stem (search for the post with its pix) would remove the clipping but the camera will be more noticeable.
Any issues with Drive Assist or anything that uses the sensors behind the mirror? Any chance of a quick image of the camera view from a view to see that clipping?

Thank you!!
 

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Blackvue offers an adapter now that you just plug into your OBD port: https://www.blackvue.com/power-magic-ez/

It has dip switches for controlling shut off voltage and time and a manual switch for turning parking mode off if you want. Seems like a much better option than buying a $300 battery or messing with the fuse box.
 

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Any issues with Drive Assist or anything that uses the sensors behind the mirror? Any chance of a quick image of the camera view from a view to see that clipping?

Thank you!!
None observed so far and there shouldn't be as this is outside of Volvo's KEEP OUT zone. When I get back in a few days I'll post the view with the minimal clipping.
 

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None observed so far and there shouldn't be as this is outside of Volvo's KEEP OUT zone. When I get back in a few days I'll post the view with the minimal clipping.
Sounds good. I've already dropped my S90 off at the shop to have them install the cameras and instructed them to go left or right (whichever had the better view) of the sensors.
 

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Blackvue offers an adapter now that you just plug into your OBD port ... Seems like a much better option than buying a $300 battery or messing with the fuse box.
It really depends on what one wants. Blackvue's Magic Pro switch (which runs off the car battery and prevents draining it too much) is supposed to not run parking mode as long as their PowerMagic Ultra battery (B-124). I unfortunately don't have numbers to share for the MagicPro but one PowerMagic Ultra battery lasted about 40 hours in continuous parking mode (in my boring garage) before the battery emptied - I only have one data point. Park mode on a busy city street would probably be less time with all the image excitement needing processing.
 

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It really depends on what one wants. Blackvue's Magic Pro switch (which runs off the car battery and prevents draining it too much) is supposed to not run parking mode as long as their PowerMagic Ultra battery (B-124). I unfortunately don't have numbers to share for the MagicPro but one PowerMagic Ultra battery lasted about 40 hours in continuous parking mode (in my boring garage) before the battery emptied - I only have one data point. Park mode on a busy city street would probably be less time with all the image excitement needing processing.
Yeah, the battery would probably last longer but it's also another $300 or so. If I can get overnight (~8 hours) using this adapter, that will be enough for me.
 

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Yeah, the battery would probably last longer but it's also another $300 or so. If I can get overnight (~8 hours) using this adapter, that will be enough for me.
I opted for the battery to provide the longest runtime.

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Yeah, the battery would probably last longer but it's also another $300 or so. If I can get overnight (~8 hours) using this adapter, that will be enough for me.
The PowerMagic Ultra battery was chosen because I had zero data telling me how battery voltage cutoff level set by the MagicPro switch translates into parking mode time (hours), particularly for the New England winters and for the XC90.

Using a dashcam battery completely avoids this issue, but for a price . . .
 

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The PowerMagic Ultra battery was chosen because I had zero data telling me how battery voltage cutoff level set by the MagicPro switch translates into parking mode time (hours), particularly for the New England winters and for the XC90.

Using a dashcam battery completely avoids this issue, but for a price . . .
Yeah, I couldn't find any exact numbers either. I saw a video review from a Mustang driver that got about 20 hours or so in this mode but I'm not sure what setting he was using. I know our vehicles have two batteries, so presumably this would keep parking mode going a bit longer than others. Guess I'll be the guinea pig and see how long it lasts when I get it installed.
 

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Yeah, I couldn't find any exact numbers either. I saw a video review from a Mustang driver that got about 20 hours or so in this mode but I'm not sure what setting he was using. I know our vehicles have two batteries, so presumably this would keep parking mode going a bit longer than others. Guess I'll be the guinea pig and see how long it lasts when I get it installed.
Thinking about this further, I decided to order the Blackvue battery instead of hard wiring. The electronics on these cars are sophisticated now and may not play nice with a parasitic draw when the car is off. I've read of many Acura and BMW owners who have hard wired their units and they either don't power on at all or deplete the car battery (despite the settings that are supposed to prevent this). Oh well, what's another $300? LOL.
 
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