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Will second. Did all my updates (amazing a dealer had it for almost 60 days doing an engine swap but couldn't be troubled to do the updates during that time) with the chinese clone and 2015 online. Bought a key for my wife and had no issues programming it in.
Good to know! I bought 2 keys and the dealer wants $140 to add them to the car which is fine with me, BUT, said if they couldn't get them to work then that $140 was forfeit. I'd rather get setup with a DICE anyways and knowing I could give the programming another shot if something didn't take the first time around sits better with me.

'15 V60 T5 FWD | Savile Gray
 

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Good to know! I bought 2 keys and the dealer wants $140 to add them to the car which is fine with me, BUT, said if they couldn't get them to work then that $140 was forfeit. I'd rather get setup with a DICE anyways and knowing I could give the programming another shot if something didn't take the first time around sits better with me.

'15 V60 T5 FWD | Savile Gray
It's a crapshoot. Ironically, Volvo charges you $23? if I recall correctly to download the "Key Software". You get one use out of it, to either remove a stored key or add a new key. Volvo has room for 5 total in it's memory if I recall correctly. I only had one key when I bought it and only one was in the memory when I added the second. As long as it's actually a new key and it came in it's plastic wrapper with the codes on the outside, programming it in is a simple job using those numbers. Dealership here wanted $500 to do a single key, given that a key itself is $150, so I decided to do it myself.
 

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Will second. Did all my updates (amazing a dealer had it for almost 60 days doing an engine swap but couldn't be troubled to do the updates during that time) with the chinese clone and 2015 online. Bought a key for my wife and had no issues programming it in.
what updates should I do? there's many on the list as I remember, any suggestions during the update? was your car battery connected to a charger?
 

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what updates should I do? there's many on the list as I remember, any suggestions during the update? was your car battery connected to a charger?
I'm wondering the same thing. Reading above recommendations for having both a battery <3 years old & a "well regulated" PSU (assuming shop grade $$$) puts the admission price into programming a key myself into the $1k range.
 

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Personally I'm in the camp of 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' and 'leave well enough alone' when it comes to updating software in your car. Some say do an all-CAN update and that's fine, but keep the above advice firmly in mind when performing such a comprehensive and lengthy update. Your biggest issue will be keeping the voltage threshold above the cutoff point so the update doesn't crash and you have unexpected results when an update tanks. Some use battery tenders but I now prefer to run the dice on a power supply to keep it happy, something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-12V-3...h=item3f77d40376:g:bbsAAOSwhQhYy9Z3:rk:9:pf:0 . I haven't used a charger on the battery, instead I just make sure the battery is fully charged before updating anything. The very first time I tried to update something on my S40 a couple years ago with a 3+ year old battery my voltage went under 12V and my download failed which freaked me out. Luckily I sorted it out. When I added a spare key to my son's S60 last year I also downloaded and installed the amplifier software (AUM), update the TCM, and removed the alarm. I just had to replace his battery a couple months later so I know the battery alone was not in great shape. However, I was running the dice off the external power supply and never had an issue during the updating, which took nearly 45-60 mins in total with ignition key in pos II and nothing else turned on. I understand the supply is called out by Volvo for dice firmware updates (never do that to a clone!) and situations where the battery needs disconnected, but that was my experience using the adapter. If I'm wrong then I'm wrong but that was my experience, ymmv.
 

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Personally I'm in the camp of 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' and 'leave well enough alone' when it comes to updating software in your car. Some say do an all-CAN update and that's fine, but keep the above advice firmly in mind when performing such a comprehensive and lengthy update. Your biggest issue will be keeping the voltage threshold above the cutoff point so the update doesn't crash and you have unexpected results when an update tanks. Some use battery tenders but I now prefer to run the dice on a power supply to keep it happy, something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-12V-3...h=item3f77d40376:g:bbsAAOSwhQhYy9Z3:rk:9:pf:0
Thanks, beachnut. Are you saying that having a proper PSU and good battery is more for the sake of the DICE unit than maintaining the car's voltage? I'm reading now in my search that it's important to maintain 13.6V on the car while doing programming and of course the longer you're programming the more voltage drop you're going to get without a steady power supply resulting in failed updates. While I'm just now getting familiarized with PSUs purpose built for programming cars the computer builder side of me is really just wondering what amp range and voltage I need to maintain so I can source a PSU elsewhere to maintain voltage on the cheap.
 

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Read my update above after posting initially. That was my experience using the adapter for the first time. Perhaps I'm wrong, maybe my old battery in the S60 was keeping the voltage better than I thought but somehow I doubt it. That was the 3rd time I've used online vida. I shared the first time on my S40 already, and when that happened I definitely saw the voltage was low because on the vida programming screen there is a power graphic display that monitors voltage for you. The 2nd time I was updating something in my S80 2.5T and this time I did everything in the driveway with the car running, save for the time when I was told to stop-restart. I forget what I was updating then, but it wasn't long. The 3rd time on the S60 I never kept the car running, but when the battery let us down a few months later I can safely say it couldn't have been in prime condition back then.
 

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Read my update above after posting initially. That was my experience using the adapter for the first time. Perhaps I'm wrong, maybe my old battery in the S60 was keeping the voltage better than I thought but somehow I doubt it. That was the 3rd time I've used online vida. I shared the first time on my S40 already, and when that happened I definitely saw the voltage was low because on the vida programming screen there is a power graphic display that monitors voltage for you. The 2nd time I was updating something in my S80 2.5T and this time I did everything in the driveway with the car running, save for the time when I was told to stop-restart. I forget what I was updating then, but it wasn't long. The 3rd time on the S60 I never kept the car running, but when the battery let us down a few months later I can safely say it couldn't have been in prime condition back then.
Appreciate the info! I'm seeing a few other threads where people were letting the car run for certain programming and that maintained voltage fine. I did find in the VIDA instructions for software downloading this passage regarding power supply:
When performing a software download as well as electronic diagnostics, activations and quick tests within VIDA, it is imperative that the vehicle's system voltage is maintained between approx. 13.0 V and 14.0 V. Volvo requires the use of the Midtronics PSC 550 when performing SWDLs and during fault tracing. The Midtronics PSC 550 is a constant voltage power supply capable of 55 Amperes max while regulating the voltage to 13.6. The use of this power supply will prevent over voltages during SWDLs and fault tracing.
https://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.cfm?event=viewFile&filename=vida_software_ordering.pdf
That Midtronics PSU is $407! I'm confident I can find a PSU that would satisfy those requirements at my local industrial surplus store for <$50, maybe have to solder in a potentiometer to zero in on the desired voltage. I may go ahead and pin that on a To-Do list and give programming my keys a go while the car is running.
 

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Appreciate the info! I'm seeing a few other threads where people were letting the car run for certain programming and that maintained voltage fine. I did find in the VIDA instructions for software downloading this passage regarding power supply:

https://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.cfm?event=viewFile&filename=vida_software_ordering.pdf
That Midtronics PSU is $407! I'm confident I can find a PSU that would satisfy those requirements at my local industrial surplus store for <$50, maybe have to solder in a potentiometer to zero in on the desired voltage. I may go ahead and pin that on a To-Do list and give programming my keys a go while the car is running.
Please let me know your findings! I want to do modules software updates but I stuck at finding the good cheap power supply, tech told me that the battery charger I found at walmart 15A wouldn't be good for this job.
 

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Please let me know your findings! I want to do modules software updates but I stuck at finding the good cheap power supply, tech told me that the battery charger I found at walmart 15A wouldn't be good for this job.
Will do! I talked with a buddy this morning that rigged a PSU years ago for charging some of his RC batteries and told me to do a search around that. I found a few RC articles and a lengthy thread on a BimmerForum about some guys buying some HP server PSUs from ebay for $20 and soldering in a potentiometer to raise and hold the voltage to 13.5V then just adding on some cables to connect to the battery. Appears to supply nice and steady voltage! The max amperage is a little lower (46ish) than the max Volvo states above but I have a hard time imagining the car pulling upwards of 40amps while sitting in ignition II with nothing running - it would likely be closer to 10-15amps.

The problem with a regular battery charger is the current is too noisy and it doesn't have the CPU to react to voltage variations throughout the programming process, you need a nice clean current so that's where the PSU comes into play. I already found one of those HP PSUs and ordered it for $20 shipped because that's cheap enough to tinker for me. I've gone ahead and included the build links I found below!

https://www.rchelicopterfun.com/dps-600pb-build.html
http://www.tjinguytech.com/my-projects/HP47A
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1262137
 

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Will do! I talked with a buddy this morning that rigged a PSU years ago for charging some of his RC batteries and told me to do a search around that. I found a few RC articles and a lengthy thread on a BimmerForum about some guys buying some HP server PSUs from ebay for $20 and soldering in a potentiometer to raise and hold the voltage to 13.5V then just adding on some cables to connect to the battery. Appears to supply nice and steady voltage! The max amperage is a little lower (46ish) than the max Volvo states above but I have a hard time imagining the car pulling upwards of 40amps while sitting in ignition II with nothing running - it would likely be closer to 10-15amps.

The problem with a regular battery charger is the current is too noisy and it doesn't have the CPU to react to voltage variations throughout the programming process, you need a nice clean current so that's where the PSU comes into play. I already found one of those HP PSUs and ordered it for $20 shipped because that's cheap enough to tinker for me. I've gone ahead and included the build links I found below!

https://www.rchelicopterfun.com/dps-600pb-build.html
http://www.tjinguytech.com/my-projects/HP47A
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1262137
Ok great thank you!
I'm searching to find if there is any commercially avaialble PSUs availble for lower price.
Also I have a spare battery, you think if I connected it to the car that would be enough juice to complete the software update?
 

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A second battery in parallel is a crapshoot. If it's not closely matched to the one in the car, they can drag each other down. And as mentioned earlier, the car may need to be powered, stably, for an indefinite period of time for such a whole-car every-module type of update.
 

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A second battery in parallel is a crapshoot. If it's not closely matched to the one in the car, they can drag each other down. And as mentioned earlier, the car may need to be powered, stably, for an indefinite period of time for such a whole-car every-module type of update.
Okay so just my two cents:
I personally did all my updates with a trickle charger on the battery the whole time. I easily spent 2-3 hours doing all the updates and didn't have a failure one time (the first time I did all the updates). It was Walmart (Shumacher) or some such brand and had a slow and a fast charge, I kept it on slow the entire time.

Next you can pop out your headlights and disconnect them both and then do your taillights too (just disconnect power there), make sure your fan and radio are both off, and turn off your interior lights and you'll be running at minimum power. Should give you a nice LONG time to do the updates without having to worry about an excessive drain on your system.

I think I may be one of the few with a spare battery in the trunk running in parallel with the first one in the enginebay. That being said, Voltage reads will be far off and the batteries will constantly trying to level with each other. While outputting amperage to accomplish the tasks. VIDA is stupid sensitive when doing software and doesn't like seeing two voltages (12.8 and probably 12.4 or 12.6). The Dice will operate just fine however and most diagnostics shouldn't give you an issue.
 

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Hey all. I need some help. It's been a while since I hooked dice up to my V50. I seem to remember some sequence of connecting obd2 cable, turning ifnition to position #?, Etc. Can anyone advise? Also, I've pulled my seats to remove some wet, moldy carpet. Now that I've reinstalled them and connected all the various wires I'm getting an airbag warning. Once I'm in vida will I be able to diagnose the problem and/or turn of the warning? Thanks

Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
 

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A second battery in parallel is a crapshoot. If it's not closely matched to the one in the car, they can drag each other down. And as mentioned earlier, the car may need to be powered, stably, for an indefinite period of time for such a whole-car every-module type of update.
I found online for lower price Midtronics PSC 300S 30A Power Supply I will use it.
just confirming I will connect the red clamp (+) to the (+) on the battery under the hood (2015.5 S60) And for the black clamp(-) do I connect it to the ground point under the hood or to the (-) terminal on the battery directly?
 

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As the thread has turned towards the critical aspect of battery voltage during reprogramming, here's my 2¢...

Thanks to several mandated ECU updates on the brand I work on daily (Brand X), I have gained even more experience in this aspect! By the way, nationally, Brand X is having a problem with bricked ECUs due mostly to poor reprogramming technique.

The charging station we are commanded to use by Brand X is a multi-thousand dollar monster with built-in battery diagnostics, low output "ripple" and fine control over voltage. It performs a battery test before committing to "Power Supply" mode. If a car with a bad battery is presented, we use a temporary donor battery for reprogramming.

If you intend to replicate this on the cheap:

Typically, the power supply mode used for reprogramming requires an initial current of 20-40 amps to maintain 13.6 volts, quickly dropping to around 8 -15A for a vehicle with the Key ON, headlights and all accessories OFF, and in some cases and as specified, certain systems like the cooling fans or anti-lock brakes unplugged.


The first step : Get the battery tested, even if it is a Dealership-supplied battery less than a week old. BTW, the expensive dealership battery usually has the highest quality for a given car.... auto manufacturers HATE the poor reputation the car receives because of a poor quality battery, so this is something they don't skimp on.

The second step: Make sure that the battery is fully charged and is not cold or excessively hot. Cold batteries drop power quickly, so the car should be at room temperature preferably overnight and on a trickle charger.

The third step: Obtain a battery charger that can deliver 10-15A on a continuous basis. This will initially be too low, but should avoid excessive voltage or ripple. Also, it's best to have a voltmeter on hand. The high-quality battery mentioned above will absorb most ripple and voltage fluctuations. This is where the el-cheapo battery will brick your ecu!

The fourth step: Turn off all accessories, particularly the climate control system and Daytime Running Lights. If Daytime running lights can not be turned off, additional battery charger power must be supplied to maintain voltage at around 13v. If the reprogramming instructions advise disconnecting systems like cooling fans, do so.

The fifth step: Connect the battery charger, Turn the Ignition ON with engine not running , connect up your DICE, start up VIDA. After the several minutes this will take, check the battery voltage. VIDA conveniently displays this on the screen before reprogramming begins. Adjust the charger to obtain 13 - 14.5 volts.

Begin your reprogramming routine as described in my earlier post. Above all DON'T PANIC! The car may appear to "go dead" and VIDA may appear to freeze. This is normal... do NOT unplug any cables, do NOT use CRTL+ALT+DEL, and do NOT click on anything trying to find out what is wrong.
It is most important that no other programs are running on the computer, that its own battery does not die and that Windows Update does not start.
The reprogramming will usually succeed even if the battery voltage drops to 12V or slightly lower, but the chances of success is best at around 13V. Voltage climbing above 15V should immediately be reduced.

After a seeming eternity, VIDA will inform you that the reprogramming process is complete or has failed. If the car has appeared to have "Gone dead" it will now spring back to life suddenly.

Having Completed, clear any fault codes, re-assemble the car and Happy Motoring.

Having Failed.... Well, that can get very tricky. Possibly a second attempt can succeed, possibly an expensive tow and a gigantically more expensive extended visit at a Volvo dealership will be needed.

But that is the risk of software updates! As someone posted regarding updates, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it...."

Good Luck and Welcome to my World....
 

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I just want to share my personal experience with everyone here. I’m not trying to cause any confusion nor starting a debate. I totally agree that using a good quality power supply is the safest way to do this. Especially if you are doing a big update like “Total Upgrade CAN” that requires more time than a small module download. VIDA gives you an estimate of how long takes to download the SW to your car.

With that being said:

Yesterday, I did a few software updates in my S40 (DRL disable, fog lights activation, and added a new remote key) and I did those downloads without any power supply.

My method was:
Before doing the first download, I started the engine and waited until it reached normal operating temperature (Car was cold and weather was 50 F here in Houston). Then I shut off the engine, checked battery voltage in VIDA (12.6V) and proceeded with the SW download.
After each SW download. I started the engine and let it run for 20 minutes with all accessories off and then repeated the process.

During the SW downloads, which were quick (around 4 minutes each for DRL disable and fog lights activation, key programming took me a bit longer) VIDA showed 12.6 Volts, and the voltage fell to 12.4 after around 15 minutes.

I have to mention that my Car has an 80Ah battery (Premium Sound system), and is 8 months old.

Also I’d like to confirm that a chinese DICE (Teleca blue board in my case) worked flawlessly for the downloads.

The software prices in my case were:

DRL disable:
P/N: 30679690 - “ADD LOW BEAM 2”
$33.51 + tax = $36.27 final

Fog Lights activation:
P/N: 30664434 - “ADD FOG LIGHTS”
$33.51 + tax = $36.27 final

Key Programming:
P/N: 30667237 - “ADD REMOTE KEY”
$33.51 + tax = $36.27 final
Note: It is possible to add and/or delete keys with this SW many times as long as you don’t close the assistant, otherwise you’ll have to buy it again.
You can add up to 6 remotes to P1’s.

For those wondering about
Trip Computer Activation:
P/N: 8698724
$290.45 + tax

I was about to download this but didn’t know it is so expensive. Fun fact: the size of this update is 4 kB, same as DRL disable, fog lights activation and key programming.
 

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Also I forgot to mention:

There is no need to replace the headlights switch with another with the front fog lights button, that is BS, I pulled the blank cover with a plier from the button and installed this:

You only need the button cover and the clear plastic, the button is already there, only software is needed to make the button work and the cover to be able to press it. Unless you want to use a pencil or a toothpick, that’s up to you.



 

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"Note: It is possible to add and/or delete keys with this SW many times as long as you don’t close the assistant, otherwise you’ll have to buy it again."

That's a very good tip! Thanks for sharing your experience.

'15 V60 T5 FWD | Savile Gray
 

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Wow, many thanks for that, very informative.
How much did you pay for online subscription, is it still the 3-day subscription minimum?
I remember researching this a while ago and it looked like there are different rules in EU, there was no option for short-time subscription at all. I wonder if thats geo-locked and if so, will it simply require VPN or it checks against car origin/destination?

last q - how did you obtain the blank key and how much was it? My local dealer laughed at me once I asked him can I just order a new key but without programming it in the service, it was like "all-in" package or nothing.
 
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