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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So.. This is about 6 months old, give or take. Came with the OBX downpipe.

The one from the Turbo-to-DP is looking the same, only problem is one of the bolts (just recently removed) is now seized, and is going to strip when taken out. I got it about 1/4 an inch out and it just stopped coming out. Anyone know how to get through that without destroying the threads?

 

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Why you always go OEM, never the ****ty gaskets that come with a cheap DP :D
 

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It can happen with standard gaskets as well but that one looks kinda odd compared to the standard one.

Generally your threads will be screwed so a helicoil insert might be needed, or you can run a tap down it and see if the threads are good enough to accept a new stud.

or you could just leave the stud in if it has thread on it.
 

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turbo to downpipe should have three bolts correct? this looks like the gasket for downpipe to the rest of the exhaust. looks like the bolts were not on tight enough from day one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
turbo to downpipe should have three bolts correct? this looks like the gasket for downpipe to the rest of the exhaust. looks like the bolts were not on tight enough from day one.
It's possible. Blame firestone. I had them swap my catless downpipe on since I couldn't get the turbo-dp bolts out the first time lol
 

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PB Blaster is your friend.


Make sure to use anti seize when you reassemble.


The DP to exhaust gasket was leaking as you can see from the black on it. Might not of been tight enough or lined up properly. The gap between the 2 surfaces allowed water to deteriorate the gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
PB Blaster is your friend.


Make sure to use anti seize when you reassemble.


The DP to exhaust gasket was leaking as you can see from the black on it. Might not of been tight enough or lined up properly. The gap between the 2 surfaces allowed water to deteriorate the gasket.
I have about 4 cans of PB as I go through it regularly. I've also got a large tub of anti-seize, which I also use regularly :D
 

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If the nut is a quarter inch down and not moving, chances are the only option is torching the but until it gets reddish and trying to take it off. Other than that you can torch it and cut the nut in half(which is what I had to do)


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If the nut is a quarter inch down and not moving, chances are the only option is torching the but until it gets reddish and trying to take it off. Other than that you can torch it and cut the nut in half(which is what I had to do)


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Well, since I've got an 05, it's a bolt. Not a nut.. Otherwise I would. I'm going to put studs in after I take these bolts out... Studs don't fail like these bolts do.
 

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Wait...the 04's have an advantage?? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wait, so 05+ have bolts that go into the turbo? Not studs coming out of it?
Yes. It's probably the worst thing Volvo EVER did. Ever. Here's why:




That's 3 out of 3 that stripped. One broke in the housing.
 

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So.. This is about 6 months old, give or take. Came with the OBX downpipe.

The one from the Turbo-to-DP is looking the same, only problem is one of the bolts (just recently removed) is now seized, and is going to strip when taken out. I got it about 1/4 an inch out and it just stopped coming out. Anyone know how to get through that without destroying the threads?

Why you always go OEM, never the ****ty gaskets that come with a cheap DP :D
I have about 4 cans of PB as I go through it regularly. I've also got a large tub of anti-seize, which I also use regularly :D
It's possible. Blame firestone. I had them swap my catless downpipe on since I couldn't get the turbo-dp bolts out the first time lol
Yo Doc, the real doctor is in LOL.....

Since i litterally just got home from doing my OBX downpipe in my 05 VR.....

FIRST:
First picture of gasket and why it disinergrated like that.
OBX down pipe is a cheap knockoff from china, there is no doubt what it is. It comes with issues. main thing is when the three bolts are put onto the turbo the back end of the down pipe is off and NOT centered. is will be real real close to the passenger side of the driveshaft tunnel.
The way the OBX pipe is made the right flange will hit the center bearing carrier/ hanger for the driveshaft. THE WRONG WAY TO MAKE IT FIT AND NOT HIT IT is to pull down on where the downpipe meets the resonator. imagine two flat surfaces mated to each other and then forced down it will make one side of the flat surface curved thus opening the bottom of the flange just a little. over time the hole gets bigger and bigger, like in the picture above. Then you get a post saying how cheap the gaskets are for the OBX downpipe :p

Second:
Turbo bolts stripping are from three very likely causes. One : no anti size was applied on install, Two: cross threaded when it was first put back in Three: OBX turbo side of the flange is smaller than the OEM flange, so when the bolts go in all the way it will actually hit the no thread part of the bolt like in the above post. I'd put money on combo of one and two since the cross thread is at the end of the bolt.

Third:
Did you try and remove the downpipe while the car is hot? Honestly, thats the best time to do it. it comes out like butter then. My 161k VR came out like butta. We drove it in, set up the lift, got her up and reached up and sprayed the bolts down with pb blaster first. then we started to take stuff off. In the garage we use compressed air tools do common hand tools might not do the trick here. Turbo down pipe only required a 3/8 extension and a airgun and it was out.

I did not use any of the bolts that came with the downpipe, used only the downpipe to resonator gasket. i used a air hammer to flatten the area that was getting touched by the downpipe on the right side of the transmission tunnel and i also cut off as much as i could from the obx flange that meets the resonator. Bolts strip and snap for a reason, put on wrong and not using the proper materials to prep the surface will result in issues down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yo Doc, the real doctor is in LOL.....

Since i litterally just got home from doing my OBX downpipe in my 05 VR.....

FIRST:
First picture of gasket and why it disinergrated like that.
OBX down pipe is a cheap knockoff from china, there is no doubt what it is. It comes with issues. main thing is when the three bolts are put onto the turbo the back end of the down pipe is off and NOT centered. is will be real real close to the passenger side of the driveshaft tunnel.
The way the OBX pipe is made the right flange will hit the center bearing carrier/ hanger for the driveshaft. THE WRONG WAY TO MAKE IT FIT AND NOT HIT IT is to pull down on where the downpipe meets the resonator. imagine two flat surfaces mated to each other and then forced down it will make one side of the flat surface curved thus opening the bottom of the flange just a little. over time the hole gets bigger and bigger, like in the picture above. Then you get a post saying how cheap the gaskets are for the OBX downpipe :p

Second:
Turbo bolts stripping are from three very likely causes. One : no anti size was applied on install, Two: cross threaded when it was first put back in Three: OBX turbo side of the flange is smaller than the OEM flange, so when the bolts go in all the way it will actually hit the no thread part of the bolt like in the above post. I'd put money on combo of one and two since the cross thread is at the end of the bolt.

Third:
Did you try and remove the downpipe while the car is hot? Honestly, thats the best time to do it. it comes out like butter then. My 161k VR came out like butta. We drove it in, set up the lift, got her up and reached up and sprayed the bolts down with pb blaster first. then we started to take stuff off. In the garage we use compressed air tools do common hand tools might not do the trick here. Turbo down pipe only required a 3/8 extension and a airgun and it was out.

I did not use any of the bolts that came with the downpipe, used only the downpipe to resonator gasket. i used a air hammer to flatten the area that was getting touched by the downpipe on the right side of the transmission tunnel and i also cut off as much as i could from the obx flange that meets the resonator. Bolts strip and snap for a reason, put on wrong and not using the proper materials to prep the surface will result in issues down the road.
Well, cool, except you just told me everything I already knew. I wasn't asking why it was leaking, I just posted to show it WAS leaking. Also, the bolts didn't get cross threaded going in, since we did them finger tight all the way, then tightened them. We also didn't use anti-seize, however we only planned to remove them a few days later, so it seemed unnecessary.. We only put the OBX on as a temporary fix while we fixed the other downpipe (new cat, fixed a dent) and when we went to take it off today (the car was fresh and hot) every one of them stripped out.

I had the OBX on my R for a couple months, and took it off, put the stock back on. The bolts came out fine when I took the OBX out, but just a few days ago I wanted to throw on the DP I made just for the hell of it, and one of the three are stripped.


All of this pain and suffering would've been avoided had Volvo put studs in the turbo from the factory. And for the record, the OBX sat to one side on my R, but when we put it on this other one, it was perfectly center... I think it has something to do with us not using the rubber hangers on the DP, because it was perfect. I was sort of pissed.
 

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Well, cool, except you just told me everything I already knew. I wasn't asking why it was leaking, I just posted to show it WAS leaking. Also, the bolts didn't get cross threaded going in, since we did them finger tight all the way, then tightened them. We also didn't use anti-seize, however we only planned to remove them a few days later, so it seemed unnecessary.. We only put the OBX on as a temporary fix while we fixed the other downpipe (new cat, fixed a dent) and when we went to take it off today (the car was fresh and hot) every one of them stripped out.

I had the OBX on my R for a couple months, and took it off, put the stock back on. The bolts came out fine when I took the OBX out, but just a few days ago I wanted to throw on the DP I made just for the hell of it, and one of the three are stripped.


All of this pain and suffering would've been avoided had Volvo put studs in the turbo from the factory. And for the record, the OBX sat to one side on my R, but when we put it on this other one, it was perfectly center... I think it has something to do with us not using the rubber hangers on the DP, because it was perfect. I was sort of pissed.
flip side to studs coming out of the turbo...the studs snapping off is a real PITA. on another note....did not know you removed and reinstalled your downpipe so many times, they might have been stretched out a little. since you only said it was leaking, now you know why its leaking and how to not let it happen next time :)

I used the rubber hangers and it still sat to the side. the hangers are only there to keep the pipe in the same place, not to pull or push it to another place. But you probable knew that too HAHAH

I'd use anti-sieze when ever i can because it only takes a few seconds to do but saves alot of headache later.. I guess you know that already too. Sorry if i was to brutal DOc LOL :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
flip side to studs coming out of the turbo...the studs snapping off is a real PITA. on another note....did not know you removed and reinstalled your downpipe so many times, they might have been stretched out a little. since you only said it was leaking, now you know why its leaking and how to not let it happen next time :)

I used the rubber hangers and it still sat to the side. the hangers are only there to keep the pipe in the same place, not to pull or push it to another place. But you probable knew that too HAHAH

I'd use anti-sieze when ever i can because it only takes a few seconds to do but saves alot of headache later.. I guess you know that already too. Sorry if i was to brutal DOc LOL :p
I was saying that when we did not use the hangers, it was centered. Which was odd...
 
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