[mgm7890]

Would it be better to post install pics and notes in this thread to keep it all relative, or create another?

 

[theshadow27]

Would it be better to post install pics and notes in this thread to keep it all relative, or create another?

This is the SKBOWE thread... So yes, if you have pics of an HID install that uses SKBOWEs please post at least one here (or as many as you want). I also expect any issues/problems/support stuff related to the SKBOWE to live here.

If you have issues/questions/comments about a non-SKBOWE HID install, go here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=135645

If you have questions/comments about building your own KBOWE, go here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=129216

If you have questions/comments about the CEM or the engineering of the KBOWE, SKBOWE or any other HID cancelers, go here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=125561

The official AL "E46" projector thread is coming soon.

You are more than welcome to start your own "how-to" install thread, but it better have big beautiful pics in it.

Otherwise, here is fine.

 

[mgm7890]

Here's my install/notes from when I did this (any input or suggestions are welcomed! This is my first retrofit, so not sure how to do it the best, yet)

My part list (all sourced from The Retrofit Source and theshadow27)

(2) SKBOWEs

(2) XB35 Morimoto Ballasts
(2) D2S Ignitors
(2) D2S 4500K bulbs
(2) E46 Bosch Replica Projectors

First, I installed the projectors. They are an easy swap with just three T30 screws. Just swap the old ones out for the new D2S projectors.

[Left Side]

[Right Side]

Make sure you buy the 90* style ignitors. This will allow you to only need to cut out on hole in your original rear covers for the headlight assembly.

Route the wire below the igniter. If you notice, the back of the headlight covers taper further out as you move away from the center of the car. So, position your ignitors to follow the taper.

[Left Side]

The rear cover needs to be "dremeled" out to allow clearance for the ignitors to fit without needing to modify how the rear cover attaches, or having to cut a giant hole out of it.

[Left Side]

[Right Side]

I positioned my ballasts and SKBOWEs behind the headlight assembly, and above the wheel/fender liners.

[Right Side]

They are attached to the metal via self tapping screws and washers. Also, there is industrial velcro in the center of each unit to add stability.

Here are the mounting positions when looking from in front of the car with the headlights removed

[Left Side]

[Right Side]

It is much tighter on the PS side, but that is due to me having the older style PS reservoir and pump. Your setup may be easier.

Then, just plug it all in and waterseal the back of the headlights with the provided rubber grommet.

[Left Side]

Here is the view of them completed:

[Left Side]

[Right Side]

Light output with left side HID and right side Halogen:

Light output with both HID:

ISSUES:

My left side projector has a horrible corona effect going on. I am referring to that concentrated outer ring area of the projector light. I have tried swapping lens, and the result is the same. I am thinking it is due to a poorly manufactured replica projector. I'm hoping to further troubleshoot the issue and solve the beam defect.

The beams have a bright hotspot, and have a dull "blue" to them at the cutoff spots. You will need to adjust the output of your headlights by using the two Allen spots and adjust the shield screw on the physical projector assembly to achieve the best output.

NOTES:

Firstly, big thanks for theshadow27 for designing and building these SKBOWEs. He's the real hero here! I haven't had any issues with bulbs or ballasts. The BOW works correctly, and everything lights up quickly.

The stock headlight wiring is very fragile, so be careful when manipulating it.

I'm hoping to add hi beam functionality next with a simple harness.

I'm sure I'll think of other stuff, but that's it for now!

To clean the lens I used this:

 

[theshadow27]

Beautiful! Even got the right lens cleaning stuff... makes me

I will link to this in the OP - really nice pics.

My only suggestion: when you go do to the high beam, add some RTV around the grommet, especially where the power wire comes out and where the ignitor wire goes through. Just pull the grommet out, run a bead of RTV around the outside and put it back in. From the inside, add some extra round the two wires and wiggle them in and out. That will keep it everything in place and keep the inside nice and dry.

My favorite pic of the batch is:

</img>

Nick was giving me flack for using OEM spec tape and loom. That pic shows why I did it - the SKBOWE wires blend in perfectly with the OEM harnesses... It's only the silly Morimoto braid that sticks out like a sore thumb. :thumbup:

 

[beachnut]

Looks fantastic MGM, great job!

The stock headlight wiring is very fragile, so be careful when manipulating it.

Yes, I know all about the crummy wiring. I spent some time today starting to get my lights ready, and the wiring on the the driver's housing was pretty much shot. Almost thought about throwing in the towel and trolling eBay for a used one. But ... I spent at least an hour doing this and it lives to see another day:

Oh and Shadow ... I'm ready for that official AL E46 thread ... will have plenty of questions I even took out the driver's H11 projector today to get a few pics in preparation.

 

[mgm7890]

My only suggestion: when you go do to the high beam, add some RTV around the grommet, especially where the power wire comes out and where the ignitor wire goes through. Just pull the grommet out, run a bead of RTV around the outside and put it back in. From the inside, add some extra round the two wires and wiggle them in and out. That will keep it everything in place and keep the inside nice and dry.

Thanks for the suggestion! I'd like to find a new grommet to have both wires go through; instead of having one hang out. Since the HID setup would probably not pass inspection, I still need to be able to swap projectors and keep the original H11 connector present. If I didn't, I'd get another grommet and then place both sets of wires permanently in it.

Nick was giving me flack for using OEM spec tape and loom. That pic shows why I did it - the SKBOWE wires blend in perfectly with the OEM harnesses... It's only the silly Morimoto braid that sticks out like a sore thumb. :thumbup:

I like how it blends in easily. The braided Morimoto cable is *too unique* to the original wiring. I'm sure that's what they were going for, but for *blending* in- not so much. The SKBOWE is very sturdy in construction, and the wires are easy to bend and can be stuffed in several holes around the headlight to allow a flush fit.

The other issue is that where I cut the grommet hole is the only place I could see it being cut. This gives it a location that butts up right against the windshield washer fluid, or PS lines. So, being about to position the wires coming out of it is key.

Does anyone know what that corona effect could be coming from? It's annoying to drive around at night with the left side all lit up around the edge!

 

[LizardOfBodom]

ISSUES:

My left side projector has a horrible corona effect going on. I am referring to that concentrated outer ring area of the projector light. I have tried swapping lens, and the result is the same. I am thinking it is due to a poorly manufactured replica projector. I'm hoping to further troubleshoot the issue and solve the beam defect.

If I can maybe add my 2 eurocents - I spent fair amount of evenings fiddling with those retro projectors on my test bench as I had some issues originally aswell (corona, rainbow effect and hotspot misalligned). As you noticed adjusting the screws of shutter can help nivelate some issues, but you may also have a go with bulb saddle itself. In my case (H7 burners) using pliers on base of the bulb to twist the metal a bit allowed me to center the hotspot perfectly and nivelate most of "escaping light" artifacts. As you cant do the same with DS bulbs, you can use the "juice carton" fix, where you just cut a small piece from thick and heat resistant material (juice carton ) and use it around the bulb base to extend the distance between bulb and its saddle, if needed. Also allows you to center the hotspot if you place more material on one side and less on another (imagine placing some on 3o'clock position and notice how hotspot and artifacts move).

In general, if you are able to take whole headlamp out and connect it while working on test bench (all you need is PC power supply, 1 paperclip and ofcourse yours or spare ballast) you have good way of testing various positioning of bulb and help with all unwanted artifact, also nivelating all possible flaws of replicas. By trial of error you will get to the point where its as best as it gets, and then you can sigh loudly and open a beer

thanks for the photostory btw! Always interested to see "how others do it" How is the light now, even with current issues. Happy when driving at night?

 

[mgm7890]

As you cant do the same with DS bulbs, you can use the "juice carton" fix, where you just cut a small piece from thick and heat resistant material (juice carton ) and use it around the bulb base to extend the distance between bulb and its saddle, if needed. Also allows you to center the hotspot if you place more material on one side and less on another (imagine placing some on 3o'clock position and notice how hotspot and artifacts move).

That's a great idea!! Thanks for the suggestion. I did notice the hotspots weren't aligned and it really bugged me. The bulb does not sit flush. I'm guessing this is due to the poor QA of the replica. I'll try the "juice box" method, or use some aluminum tape and see what happens!

How is the light now, even with current issues. Happy when driving at night?

The light is amazing, obviously haha the stock halogens suck on these cars. I've done the H9 conversion, re sanded the lens, and even cleaned the stock projector glass, and nothing really helped. The HID conversion is very beneficial to all parties on the road; if done properly, and aimed correctly.

 

[LizardOfBodom]

The light is amazing, obviously haha the stock halogens suck on these cars. I've done the H9 conversion, re sanded the lens, and even cleaned the stock projector glass, and nothing really helped. The HID conversion is very beneficial to all parties on the road; if done properly, and aimed correctly.

Yep, 100%! I can tell you that even with brand new replicas, polished plexi shield and very good H7 halogen bulbs (so almost "brand new headlamp" setup) light output is terrible, comparing to free-form reflectors of my previous gen S40. Tested on myself.
Projectors + halogen light emitter = fail.
good luck with alignments, hope you get it right!

 

[theshadow27]

keep the original H11 connector present. If I didn't, I'd get another grommet and then place both sets of wires permanently in it.

It is pretty easy to remove the male pins from the H11->9005 connector using a paper clip. Once the housing is off, you should be able to fit it through the center of the existing grommet. I agree that there is no good place for a passthrough, but eventually the wires conform to the 90 degree bend and there shouldn't be any issues.

Does anyone know what that corona effect could be coming from? It's annoying to drive around at night with the left side all lit up around the edge!

I played around with my replica this AM and couldn't replicate the halo even moving the bulb way out and sideways in any direction, must be a "feature" of the TRS replicas not present in the "My.Headlight" (ebay/alibaba) branded ones.

aluminum tape

Aluminum furnace ("duct") tape for sure. Not sure what juice box is in UK but I would keep waxed cardboard away from headlight components

The HID conversion is very beneficial to all parties on the road; if done properly, and aimed correctly.

+1

 

[LizardOfBodom]

Aluminum furnace ("duct") tape for sure. Not sure what juice box is in UK but I would keep waxed cardboard away from headlight components

hehe, just to clarify - original "design" of this mod was done using actual juice box (the one that has aluminium insert and thick cardboard outside) hence the name, but obviously something more to-the-purpose will be better The idea remains the same
BTW - if you cant fix the issue, maybe its worth writing to TRS and asking for replacement projector?

 

[rhags138]

Well, the Morimotos came last night......but my retrofit just got more complicated.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

 

[mgm7890]

BTW - if you cant fix the issue, maybe its worth writing to TRS and asking for replacement projector?

I thought of this, but they are closeout items. Do you think they'd care at that point? I guess maybe if I contact them, they may at least be aware of the issue and have a possible solution! Thanks for the idea!

 

[theshadow27]

Well, the Morimotos came last night......but my retrofit just got more complicated

Oh no!? What happened?!!?

 

[theshadow27]

the one that has aluminium insert and thick cardboard outside

Just be careful with this. Depending on binders autoignition point of cardboard is between 220-240C, which is lower than the operating temperature of the HID quartz envelope (~300C). A spacer is shielded from direct exposure by the reflector, but I think under the right circumstances you could at least expect decomposition resulting in nasty smoke inside of the housing.

 

[rhags138]

Heavy rain+hard turn+guardrail-good suspension/too much weight transfer= new bumper cover and pass headlight assembly. Mechanically it seems fine. Hopefully its just cosmetic.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

 

[theshadow27]

Heavy rain+hard turn+guardrail-good suspension/too much weight transfer= new bumper cover and pass headlight assembly. Mechanically it seems fine. Hopefully its just cosmetic.

Bummer... fingers crossed on an easy fix. At least you could see it right?

 

[rhags138]

Ha

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

 

[LizardOfBodom]

I thought of this, but they are closeout items. Do you think they'd care at that point? I guess maybe if I contact them, they may at least be aware of the issue and have a possible solution! Thanks for the idea!

TRS seem to be reputable enough so its no harm to give it a shot. If you send them a pic from good one and compare to bad one, and explain you tried the bulb swap and you are confident its the actual projector issue, I would expect them to exchange them without a word. Plus you should have statutory right to return/exchange the item if bought online, atleast thats what we have in EU .

theshadow27 - I agree that it is not a full term solution, its probably worth to highlight that for everybody reading it - it is possible the original "inventor" of this method used it only to test the allignment and for R&D purpose only, using a proper material afterwards - no clue. But yep - kids! - dont put carton juice in your headlamps unless you just test the bulb allignment

 

[beachnut]

Ok Shadow, I'm down for an skbowe from your next run I've been doing some projector shopping and am starting to put the pieces of my project together.

Just an observation, but there seems to be a slight difference between your projector identification chart and Nick's rundown post on AL projectors , which is not all "Gen1" projectors are 3-wire. I've seen a few newer ones (ex. 2007) that are 2-wire and have plastic reflector housings. I think Nick's definition of a "Gen2" revolves more around the aluminum housing with integrated bulb holders (octagon) found on even later model years. I know, potayto, potahto lol.