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Who wants a Volvo P1 specific, WMM safe, HID Retrofit?

60573 Views 362 Replies 43 Participants Last post by  Bernie (NoVA), 
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SwedeSpeed P1 (C30, S40, V50, C70) HID Retrofit Index
  1. SKBOWE Plug-and-Play harness for P1 HID conversion (you are here)
  2. Background info, general questions, and share your HID setup <- Non-SKBOWE HID install issues/discussion/WMM kills
  3. KBOWE How-To (Original 2009 Version) build your own PWM filter <- if you want to build your own
  4. Original 2009 investigation and technical discussion on S40 HID issues <- Technical/Engineering discussion on the CEM, PWM, WMM, and alternate designs
  5. ForceFed's E46 D2S Bi-Xenon Projector Retrofit guide
  6. Rewire OEM Bi-Xenon headlights to work on the halogen harness
  7. DRL Disable Alone not enough for safe Aftermarket HID retrofits
  8. LizardOfBodom's EU/RHD Bosch ("E46") Bi-Xenon replica retrofitting writeup + angle eyes + running lights

This thread is for discussion of the SKBOWE PWM filter, a plug-and-play error harness that I developed to help the P1 community with HID retrofits. If you have a question that's not related to the SKBOWE, please see if it fits in one of the other HID threads (above) before posting here or starting a new one.

Lets face it, the OEM halogen headlights in our cars suck. We should all know by now the issues with HID retrofits, and that the DIY solution is not trivial since it takes some soldering and hacks up the CEM harness. I have been PMed dozens of times over the years asking for a better way...

So... I found something really sweet ;) If you are interested in a commercial, plug-and-play (no cut wires!) solution that was designed specifically for Volvo P1 cars (S40, V50, C30, C70) check out:

https://www.skbowe.com/ - Shipping Now! Limited Quantity Remaining

Orders as of October 2017 (82 total): boulderc30, V50toS40, thefisch33, rhags138, persianelf, nhiggins, S40R-by-design, walky_talky20, taskmule, viggen, Puddlepirate56, chrisasdf, Noswal, beachnut, stevien1, evy0311, MJC70, MCRDSM-S40, hq_, et al... *
  • Prototype: #001A (test) #002 (mine), #003 (display unit/open box)
  • Batch 1: #004-#028 CLOSED & SHIPPED (JUL 2017)
  • Batch 2: #029-#050 CLOSED & SHIPPED (DEC 2017)
  • Batch 3: #051-#075 CLOSED & SHIPPED (FEB 2018)
  • Batch 4: #075-#100 - Shipping Now (OCT 2018)
* Don't see your username here? PM me with your SN#



Click here to see SKBOWE Installs!!

rhags138 (007) - Install
mgm7890 (024) - Install + writeup
:thumbup: SirScarFace - Install
:thumbup: Saab - Install

SKBOWEs have shipped all over...

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Useful Snip

For those of you looking for projectors, I put together a reference sheet to help you identify compatible Bosch AL 3-inch "E46" projectors in auctions or at salvage yards:



See the full resolution PDF here: https://www.theeshadow.com/files/volvo/e46/guide/al_projector_guide_v1_web.pdf

You want to look for "Gen 2" projectors, they have the best optics and the wiring is simple. Gen 1 requires a solenoid controller for bi-xenon functionality. All projectors with black plastic rings will fit D2S, the ones with octagon-shaped bulb holders might need a simple modification (bending a small tab) to allow them to take D2S bulbs.

If junkyard hunting and eBay stalking aren't your thing, Nick has been nice enough to hold a few for us:
Nick0matic said:
matched sets of gen 2 projectors... PM if you're interested.
Click to expand...
Here are some projector beam patterns:

<a href="https://www.skbowe.com/a/2017/08/01/al-projector-e46-identification-chart-selection-guide-pdf/" target="_blank"><img width="683" height="1024" src="https://www.skbowe.com/a/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/al_projectors_hid_cutoffs_sixup_montauge-683x1024.jpg" class="attachment-large size-large" alt="" srcset="https://www.skbowe.com/a/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/al_projectors_hid_cutoffs_sixup_montauge-683x1024.jpg 683w, https://www.skbowe.com/a/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/al_projectors_hid_cutoffs_sixup_montauge-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.skbowe.com/a/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/al_projectors_hid_cutoffs_sixup_montauge-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://www.skbowe.com/a/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/al_projectors_hid_cutoffs_sixup_montauge-1200x1800.jpg 1200w" sizes="(max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 984px) 61vw, (max-width: 1362px) 45vw, 600px"></a>

SKBOWE install is plug-and-play:
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Survey Stats as of May 2017: 87 responses, 82 on board.

VENDOR INFORMATION

We need a reliable manufacturer / distributor for high volume manufacturing of a specialized error canceling circuit designed specifically for the Volvo P1 series. A complete validated production ready design is available. If you are a vendor and are interested in taking on this project, please contact me!
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M
Would it be better to post install pics and notes in this thread to keep it all relative, or create another?
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mgm7890 said:
Would it be better to post install pics and notes in this thread to keep it all relative, or create another?
Click to expand...
This is the SKBOWE thread... So yes, if you have pics of an HID install that uses SKBOWEs please post at least one here (or as many as you want). I also expect any issues/problems/support stuff related to the SKBOWE to live here.

If you have issues/questions/comments about a non-SKBOWE HID install, go here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=135645

If you have questions/comments about building your own KBOWE, go here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=129216

If you have questions/comments about the CEM or the engineering of the KBOWE, SKBOWE or any other HID cancelers, go here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=125561

The official AL "E46" projector thread is coming soon.

You are more than welcome to start your own "how-to" install thread, but it better have big beautiful pics in it.

Otherwise, here is fine.

:)
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Here's my install/notes from when I did this (any input or suggestions are welcomed! This is my first retrofit, so not sure how to do it the best, yet)

My part list (all sourced from The Retrofit Source and theshadow27)


(2) SKBOWEs

(2) XB35 Morimoto Ballasts
(2) D2S Ignitors
(2) D2S 4500K bulbs
(2) E46 Bosch Replica Projectors

First, I installed the projectors. They are an easy swap with just three T30 screws. Just swap the old ones out for the new D2S projectors.

[Left Side]

[Right Side]

Make sure you buy the 90* style ignitors. This will allow you to only need to cut out on hole in your original rear covers for the headlight assembly.

Route the wire below the igniter. If you notice, the back of the headlight covers taper further out as you move away from the center of the car. So, position your ignitors to follow the taper.

[Left Side]

The rear cover needs to be "dremeled" out to allow clearance for the ignitors to fit without needing to modify how the rear cover attaches, or having to cut a giant hole out of it.

[Left Side]

[Right Side]

I positioned my ballasts and SKBOWEs behind the headlight assembly, and above the wheel/fender liners.

[Right Side]

They are attached to the metal via self tapping screws and washers. Also, there is industrial velcro in the center of each unit to add stability.

Here are the mounting positions when looking from in front of the car with the headlights removed

[Left Side]

[Right Side]

It is much tighter on the PS side, but that is due to me having the older style PS reservoir and pump. Your setup may be easier.

Then, just plug it all in and waterseal the back of the headlights with the provided rubber grommet.

[Left Side]

Here is the view of them completed:

[Left Side]

[Right Side]

Light output with left side HID and right side Halogen:



Light output with both HID:



ISSUES:

My left side projector has a horrible corona effect going on. I am referring to that concentrated outer ring area of the projector light. I have tried swapping lens, and the result is the same. I am thinking it is due to a poorly manufactured replica projector. I'm hoping to further troubleshoot the issue and solve the beam defect.

The beams have a bright hotspot, and have a dull "blue" to them at the cutoff spots. You will need to adjust the output of your headlights by using the two Allen spots and adjust the shield screw on the physical projector assembly to achieve the best output.


NOTES:

Firstly, big thanks for theshadow27 for designing and building these SKBOWEs. He's the real hero here! I haven't had any issues with bulbs or ballasts. The BOW works correctly, and everything lights up quickly.

The stock headlight wiring is very fragile, so be careful when manipulating it.

I'm hoping to add hi beam functionality next with a simple harness.

I'm sure I'll think of other stuff, but that's it for now!

To clean the lens I used this:
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T
Beautiful! Even got the right lens cleaning stuff... makes me :D

I will link to this in the OP - really nice pics.

My only suggestion: when you go do to the high beam, add some RTV around the grommet, especially where the power wire comes out and where the ignitor wire goes through. Just pull the grommet out, run a bead of RTV around the outside and put it back in. From the inside, add some extra round the two wires and wiggle them in and out. That will keep it everything in place and keep the inside nice and dry.

My favorite pic of the batch is:

mgm7890 said:
</img>
Click to expand...
Nick was giving me flack for using OEM spec tape and loom. That pic shows why I did it - the SKBOWE wires blend in perfectly with the OEM harnesses... It's only the silly Morimoto braid that sticks out like a sore thumb. :thumbup:
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beachnut
2
Looks fantastic MGM, great job!

mgm7890 said:
The stock headlight wiring is very fragile, so be careful when manipulating it.
Click to expand...
Yes, I know all about the crummy wiring. I spent some time today starting to get my lights ready, and the wiring on the the driver's housing was pretty much shot. Almost thought about throwing in the towel and trolling eBay for a used one. But ... I spent at least an hour doing this and it lives to see another day:


Oh and Shadow ... I'm ready for that official AL E46 thread ... will have plenty of questions :cool: I even took out the driver's H11 projector today to get a few pics in preparation.
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theshadow27 said:
My only suggestion: when you go do to the high beam, add some RTV around the grommet, especially where the power wire comes out and where the ignitor wire goes through. Just pull the grommet out, run a bead of RTV around the outside and put it back in. From the inside, add some extra round the two wires and wiggle them in and out. That will keep it everything in place and keep the inside nice and dry.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion! I'd like to find a new grommet to have both wires go through; instead of having one hang out. Since the HID setup would probably not pass inspection, I still need to be able to swap projectors and keep the original H11 connector present. If I didn't, I'd get another grommet and then place both sets of wires permanently in it.

Nick was giving me flack for using OEM spec tape and loom. That pic shows why I did it - the SKBOWE wires blend in perfectly with the OEM harnesses... It's only the silly Morimoto braid that sticks out like a sore thumb. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
I like how it blends in easily. The braided Morimoto cable is *too unique* to the original wiring. I'm sure that's what they were going for, but for *blending* in- not so much. The SKBOWE is very sturdy in construction, and the wires are easy to bend and can be stuffed in several holes around the headlight to allow a flush fit.

The other issue is that where I cut the grommet hole is the only place I could see it being cut. This gives it a location that butts up right against the windshield washer fluid, or PS lines. So, being about to position the wires coming out of it is key.

Does anyone know what that corona effect could be coming from? It's annoying to drive around at night with the left side all lit up around the edge!
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LizardOfBodom
mgm7890 said:
ISSUES:

My left side projector has a horrible corona effect going on. I am referring to that concentrated outer ring area of the projector light. I have tried swapping lens, and the result is the same. I am thinking it is due to a poorly manufactured replica projector. I'm hoping to further troubleshoot the issue and solve the beam defect.
Click to expand...
If I can maybe add my 2 eurocents - I spent fair amount of evenings fiddling with those retro projectors on my test bench as I had some issues originally aswell (corona, rainbow effect and hotspot misalligned). As you noticed adjusting the screws of shutter can help nivelate some issues, but you may also have a go with bulb saddle itself. In my case (H7 burners) using pliers on base of the bulb to twist the metal a bit allowed me to center the hotspot perfectly and nivelate most of "escaping light" artifacts. As you cant do the same with DS bulbs, you can use the "juice carton" fix, where you just cut a small piece from thick and heat resistant material (juice carton :p) and use it around the bulb base to extend the distance between bulb and its saddle, if needed. Also allows you to center the hotspot if you place more material on one side and less on another (imagine placing some on 3o'clock position and notice how hotspot and artifacts move).

In general, if you are able to take whole headlamp out and connect it while working on test bench (all you need is PC power supply, 1 paperclip and ofcourse yours or spare ballast) you have good way of testing various positioning of bulb and help with all unwanted artifact, also nivelating all possible flaws of replicas. By trial of error you will get to the point where its as best as it gets, and then you can sigh loudly and open a beer :)

thanks for the photostory btw! Always interested to see "how others do it" :) How is the light now, even with current issues. Happy when driving at night?
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LizardOfBodom said:
As you cant do the same with DS bulbs, you can use the "juice carton" fix, where you just cut a small piece from thick and heat resistant material (juice carton :p) and use it around the bulb base to extend the distance between bulb and its saddle, if needed. Also allows you to center the hotspot if you place more material on one side and less on another (imagine placing some on 3o'clock position and notice how hotspot and artifacts move).
Click to expand...
That's a great idea!! Thanks for the suggestion. I did notice the hotspots weren't aligned and it really bugged me. The bulb does not sit flush. I'm guessing this is due to the poor QA of the replica. I'll try the "juice box" method, or use some aluminum tape and see what happens!

How is the light now, even with current issues. Happy when driving at night?
Click to expand...
The light is amazing, obviously haha the stock halogens suck on these cars. I've done the H9 conversion, re sanded the lens, and even cleaned the stock projector glass, and nothing really helped. The HID conversion is very beneficial to all parties on the road; if done properly, and aimed correctly.
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LizardOfBodom
mgm7890 said:
The light is amazing, obviously haha the stock halogens suck on these cars. I've done the H9 conversion, re sanded the lens, and even cleaned the stock projector glass, and nothing really helped. The HID conversion is very beneficial to all parties on the road; if done properly, and aimed correctly.
Click to expand...
Yep, 100%! I can tell you that even with brand new replicas, polished plexi shield and very good H7 halogen bulbs (so almost "brand new headlamp" setup) light output is terrible, comparing to free-form reflectors of my previous gen S40. Tested on myself.
Projectors + halogen light emitter = fail.
good luck with alignments, hope you get it right!
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mgm7890 said:
keep the original H11 connector present. If I didn't, I'd get another grommet and then place both sets of wires permanently in it.
Click to expand...
It is pretty easy to remove the male pins from the H11->9005 connector using a paper clip. Once the housing is off, you should be able to fit it through the center of the existing grommet. I agree that there is no good place for a passthrough, but eventually the wires conform to the 90 degree bend and there shouldn't be any issues.

mgm7890 said:
Does anyone know what that corona effect could be coming from? It's annoying to drive around at night with the left side all lit up around the edge!
Click to expand...
I played around with my replica this AM and couldn't replicate the halo even moving the bulb way out and sideways in any direction, must be a "feature" of the TRS replicas not present in the "My.Headlight" (ebay/alibaba) branded ones.

mgm7890 said:
aluminum tape
Click to expand...
Aluminum furnace ("duct") tape for sure. Not sure what juice box is in UK but I would keep waxed cardboard away from headlight components ;)

mgm7890 said:
The HID conversion is very beneficial to all parties on the road; if done properly, and aimed correctly.
Click to expand...
+1
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LizardOfBodom
theshadow27 said:
Aluminum furnace ("duct") tape for sure. Not sure what juice box is in UK but I would keep waxed cardboard away from headlight components ;)
Click to expand...
hehe, just to clarify - original "design" of this mod was done using actual juice box (the one that has aluminium insert and thick cardboard outside) hence the name, but obviously something more to-the-purpose will be better :) The idea remains the same ;)
BTW - if you cant fix the issue, maybe its worth writing to TRS and asking for replacement projector?
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R
Well, the Morimotos came last night......but my retrofit just got more complicated.


Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
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LizardOfBodom said:
BTW - if you cant fix the issue, maybe its worth writing to TRS and asking for replacement projector?
Click to expand...
I thought of this, but they are closeout items. Do you think they'd care at that point? I guess maybe if I contact them, they may at least be aware of the issue and have a possible solution! Thanks for the idea!
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rhags138 said:
Well, the Morimotos came last night......but my retrofit just got more complicated
Click to expand...
Oh no!? What happened?!!?
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LizardOfBodom said:
the one that has aluminium insert and thick cardboard outside
Click to expand...
Just be careful with this. Depending on binders autoignition point of cardboard is between 220-240C, which is lower than the operating temperature of the HID quartz envelope (~300C). A spacer is shielded from direct exposure by the reflector, but I think under the right circumstances you could at least expect decomposition resulting in nasty smoke inside of the housing.
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Heavy rain+hard turn+guardrail-good suspension/too much weight transfer= new bumper cover and pass headlight assembly. Mechanically it seems fine. Hopefully its just cosmetic.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
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rhags138 said:
Heavy rain+hard turn+guardrail-good suspension/too much weight transfer= new bumper cover and pass headlight assembly. Mechanically it seems fine. Hopefully its just cosmetic.
Click to expand...
Bummer... fingers crossed on an easy fix. At least you could see it right? :p
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Ha

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
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LizardOfBodom
mgm7890 said:
I thought of this, but they are closeout items. Do you think they'd care at that point? I guess maybe if I contact them, they may at least be aware of the issue and have a possible solution! Thanks for the idea!
Click to expand...
TRS seem to be reputable enough so its no harm to give it a shot. If you send them a pic from good one and compare to bad one, and explain you tried the bulb swap and you are confident its the actual projector issue, I would expect them to exchange them without a word. Plus you should have statutory right to return/exchange the item if bought online, atleast thats what we have in EU .

theshadow27 - I agree that it is not a full term solution, its probably worth to highlight that for everybody reading it - it is possible the original "inventor" of this method used it only to test the allignment and for R&D purpose only, using a proper material afterwards - no clue. But yep - kids! - dont put carton juice in your headlamps unless you just test the bulb allignment :p
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beachnut
Ok Shadow, I'm down for an skbowe from your next run :) I've been doing some projector shopping and am starting to put the pieces of my project together.

Just an observation, but there seems to be a slight difference between your projector identification chart and Nick's rundown post on AL projectors , which is not all "Gen1" projectors are 3-wire. I've seen a few newer ones (ex. 2007) that are 2-wire and have plastic reflector housings. I think Nick's definition of a "Gen2" revolves more around the aluminum housing with integrated bulb holders (octagon) found on even later model years. I know, potayto, potahto lol.
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