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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Rough stab at install guide is up: https://www.skbowe.com/a/2017/07/13/skbowe-install-guide-retrofit-initial-draft/

My original Pre-KBOWE was still working, but I figured I should be the first guinea pig. Super easy to install, 15 minutes max (not including HID install). Took longer to take out the original KBOWE...

I will include two stainless M8x1.25 nuts, four 8-inch zip-ties, and a piece of 80-grit sand paper with each order so all you technically need is a 1/2" or 13mm wrench. You can totally do a better job, and if anyone wants to take better pictures I'll gladly use them for the "official" install guide :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
lol yeah that was once I realized how long it would take to go over each step...

But nobody has any suggestions for the install guide? Because that determines how long I cut the wires tomorrow. Based on that the final #s are looking like:

12" - input from headlight
6" - output to ballast
9" - ground braid

Just so there isn't a ton of extra wire back there. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Fine then.

One down, 51 to go.



Wish me luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
Just want to thank you for doing this for the community Jacob. Just got my shipping confirmation. You put your money where your mouth was and delivered on all promises. THANK YOU.
:beer: but would rather wait to celebrate till everyone is installed and working.

BTW last build update

Units finished:


One kit contents:


Off to the PO:


I expect beautiful installation pics!

Cheers :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
5 SKBOWEs delivered already, and 15 out for delivery today :thumbup:

Looks like Denver got the short end of the stick :(
 

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Received mine yesterday!
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·

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Discussion Starter · #112 · (Edited)
Don't let the DRL disable hold up your 35W install - just keep LSM in II until you get to it. Every SKBOWE runs a 50W Morimoto kit for 10 minutes on simulated DRL during testing (if it can run that, it can run anything) so nothing will explode ** if it gets switched by accident. It's just not great for any of the stuff long term (especially on a hot day after driving hard, etc), if it was always on DRL it's something like taking the expected life from 20,000 hours to 5,000 hours.

BTW do you know the other dude in Philly?

Edit:

** Depending on you kits wattage and design, running a KBOWE + HID with the LSM in Position 0 might trigger a hidden (silent) short circuit DTC (aka VIDA code) for a headlight circuit out of range low. If this happens, that side will be disabled until you remove the key and restart the car. There will be no warning displayed, and switching from 0 to II while the car is on (or the key is in) will not re-start the ballast. Restarting the car in position 0 will probably result in another error, making it seem like a fuse is blown or something is hooked up wrong. If this happens, take the key out, turn the LSM to II, and restart the car.

...But rather than explain all of that and have to deal with confused people, the "official" guidance is disable DRL. Alternately, you can disable Position 0: https://www.skbowe.com/a/2017/09/27/how-to-drl-disarm-aka-lsm-position-0-disable/

EDIT: Fixed the above to read correctly (thanks Fwinns)
 

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And it's not installed yet? :p

Pics or it didn't happen.
Unless there is an HID kit hidden in the box I will wait to install with the HID kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Don't let the DRL disable hold up your 35W install ... nothing will explode if it gets switched by accident.
Let me clarify (also edited above) "nothing will explode"

Depending on you kits wattage and design, it might trigger a hidden (silent) short circuit DTC (aka VIDA code) for a headlight circuit out of range low. If this happens, that side will be disabled until you remove the key and restart the car. There will be no warning displayed, and switching from 0 to II while the car is on (or the key is in) will not re-start the ballast. Restarting the car in position 0 will probably result in another error, making it seem like a fuse is blown or something is hooked up wrong.

But rather than explain all of that and have to deal with confused people, the "official" guidance is disable DRL.
 

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Yeah, I understand. I'm just forgetful some times and wanted to idiot proof it against myself. Plus, last time my wife left it in II overnight and killed the batt. Anyway, I ordered a cheap Kensun 35w kit from Amazon and it is supposed to arrive tomorrow. So I might install the projectors, and everything else tomorrow night if I can get around to it. Just finished wiring my 30a/240v brew panel today and everything works except the contactor coils. Now I have to troubleshoot that. Ill probably just do the headlights tomorrow though. They are more straight forward and I'm an electrical noob so ill go with the easiest thing first I'm sure. Thank god that these headlight housings come out so easily. Its the 5th straight day with the heat index above 100. Ill take pics and document

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 

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Installed and working. Ill get some nightshots and fine tuning tonight hopefully. Writeup soon to follow......hopefully. I did take pics and document. The only thing left to do is figuring how to splice in the shield actuator for bi-xenon. Thank you for delivering this to the community.


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Amazon Prime is pretty awesome. Looks like I know what I am doing now...


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Not a fan of Kensun. I had them on a previous car and I had to send different components of the kit back three separate times. When you finally get a working kit, they work well and last a long time.

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