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Who wants a Volvo P1 specific, WMM safe, HID Retrofit?

60574 Views 362 Replies 43 Participants Last post by  Bernie (NoVA)
7
SwedeSpeed P1 (C30, S40, V50, C70) HID Retrofit Index
  1. SKBOWE Plug-and-Play harness for P1 HID conversion (you are here)
  2. Background info, general questions, and share your HID setup <- Non-SKBOWE HID install issues/discussion/WMM kills
  3. KBOWE How-To (Original 2009 Version) build your own PWM filter <- if you want to build your own
  4. Original 2009 investigation and technical discussion on S40 HID issues <- Technical/Engineering discussion on the CEM, PWM, WMM, and alternate designs
  5. ForceFed's E46 D2S Bi-Xenon Projector Retrofit guide
  6. Rewire OEM Bi-Xenon headlights to work on the halogen harness
  7. DRL Disable Alone not enough for safe Aftermarket HID retrofits
  8. LizardOfBodom's EU/RHD Bosch ("E46") Bi-Xenon replica retrofitting writeup + angle eyes + running lights

This thread is for discussion of the SKBOWE PWM filter, a plug-and-play error harness that I developed to help the P1 community with HID retrofits. If you have a question that's not related to the SKBOWE, please see if it fits in one of the other HID threads (above) before posting here or starting a new one.

Lets face it, the OEM halogen headlights in our cars suck. We should all know by now the issues with HID retrofits, and that the DIY solution is not trivial since it takes some soldering and hacks up the CEM harness. I have been PMed dozens of times over the years asking for a better way...

So... I found something really sweet ;) If you are interested in a commercial, plug-and-play (no cut wires!) solution that was designed specifically for Volvo P1 cars (S40, V50, C30, C70) check out:

https://www.skbowe.com/ - Shipping Now! Limited Quantity Remaining

Orders as of October 2017 (82 total): boulderc30, V50toS40, thefisch33, rhags138, persianelf, nhiggins, S40R-by-design, walky_talky20, taskmule, viggen, Puddlepirate56, chrisasdf, Noswal, beachnut, stevien1, evy0311, MJC70, MCRDSM-S40, hq_, et al... *
  • Prototype: #001A (test) #002 (mine), #003 (display unit/open box)
  • Batch 1: #004-#028 CLOSED & SHIPPED (JUL 2017)
  • Batch 2: #029-#050 CLOSED & SHIPPED (DEC 2017)
  • Batch 3: #051-#075 CLOSED & SHIPPED (FEB 2018)
  • Batch 4: #075-#100 - Shipping Now (OCT 2018)
* Don't see your username here? PM me with your SN#



Click here to see SKBOWE Installs!!

rhags138 (007) - Install
mgm7890 (024) - Install + writeup
:thumbup: SirScarFace - Install
:thumbup: Saab - Install

SKBOWEs have shipped all over...

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Useful Snip

For those of you looking for projectors, I put together a reference sheet to help you identify compatible Bosch AL 3-inch "E46" projectors in auctions or at salvage yards:



See the full resolution PDF here: https://www.theeshadow.com/files/volvo/e46/guide/al_projector_guide_v1_web.pdf

You want to look for "Gen 2" projectors, they have the best optics and the wiring is simple. Gen 1 requires a solenoid controller for bi-xenon functionality. All projectors with black plastic rings will fit D2S, the ones with octagon-shaped bulb holders might need a simple modification (bending a small tab) to allow them to take D2S bulbs.

If junkyard hunting and eBay stalking aren't your thing, Nick has been nice enough to hold a few for us:
matched sets of gen 2 projectors... PM if you're interested.
Here are some projector beam patterns:

<a href="https://www.skbowe.com/a/2017/08/01/al-projector-e46-identification-chart-selection-guide-pdf/" target="_blank"><img width="683" height="1024" src="https://www.skbowe.com/a/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/al_projectors_hid_cutoffs_sixup_montauge-683x1024.jpg" class="attachment-large size-large" alt="" srcset="https://www.skbowe.com/a/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/al_projectors_hid_cutoffs_sixup_montauge-683x1024.jpg 683w, https://www.skbowe.com/a/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/al_projectors_hid_cutoffs_sixup_montauge-200x300.jpg 200w, https://www.skbowe.com/a/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/al_projectors_hid_cutoffs_sixup_montauge-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://www.skbowe.com/a/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/al_projectors_hid_cutoffs_sixup_montauge-1200x1800.jpg 1200w" sizes="(max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 984px) 61vw, (max-width: 1362px) 45vw, 600px"></a>

SKBOWE install is plug-and-play:
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Survey Stats as of May 2017: 87 responses, 82 on board.

VENDOR INFORMATION

We need a reliable manufacturer / distributor for high volume manufacturing of a specialized error canceling circuit designed specifically for the Volvo P1 series. A complete validated production ready design is available. If you are a vendor and are interested in taking on this project, please contact me!
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Cheers man yeah was looking at the different kits on the market. Would you recommend 35 or 55w and also nearly all kits come with canbus error eliminators. Do I need these? I?m going 5000k as don?t want the light to blue. Thanks
The dealer wanted $165 to disable my DRL's so I ended up getting a 3-day VIDA subscription from Volvo Tech Info and got the job done on my own time in my own garage for $65 less :) HID retrofit is full green light now, got all my parts, just need to find more time :(
Cheers man yeah was looking at the different kits on the market. Would you recommend 35 or 55w and also nearly all kits come with canbus error eliminators. Do I need these? I?m going 5000k as don?t want the light to blue. Thanks
As explained on https://www.skbowe.com/a/guide/ the 55 vs 35 is a tradeoff between life and brightness. In the US it doesn't matter either way, but I have had a report from Canada that 55w in the halogen projector was causing other drivers to flash, perhaps as a result of stricter headlight standards.

With SKBOWE, "CANBUS" is optional, if it is a separate adapter do not install it, if it is "built in" that is fine to use. It will work either way.

The dealer wanted $165 to disable my DRL's so I ended up getting a 3-day VIDA subscription from Volvo Tech Info and got the job done on my own time in my own garage for $65 less :) HID retrofit is full green light now, got all my parts, just need to find more time :(
Nice! Remember for the install pics or it didn't happen
Just some quick updates:

Batch 2 Production

Batch 2 production is complete, there are 12 pairs left in stock.

One of them has some cosmetic imperfections on the enclosures from sloppy work during the encapsulation process, electrical functionality isn't affected at all. I'll take 10% off this set - PM me if interested.

My AL (E46) Projector Retrofit

I also threw some AL gen2 (Audi) projectors in my car using the old back covers and AMP-D2S converters - haven't had much time on them but from a quick drive around vs H11 rebase:

- Low Beam: cutoff is nicer against a wall, but no noticeable difference on the road. Slightly wider beam pattern. The "step" is less pronounced, slightly worried about oncoming traffic (had no problems with rebase)
- High Beam: a MASSIVE improvement. Continuous school-girl giggling. The combination of 55W bi-xenon + HIR1 bulbs is silly bright - in total, about 2x stock (1680+1350 -> 2350+4200). Massive throw.

Will have to do a longer highway drive to give an complete review, but at the moment, I'm leaning away from a blanket recommendation to swap from a performance standpoint. The rebase is inexpensive and a huge improvement, the bi-xenon is expensive but only a marginal improvement.

Bi-xenon wiring, take 2

Also did a quick writeup on an alternate more advanced way to connect up the bi-xenon flapper wires without using a 9005 extension:
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Enjoy!
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Also did a quick writeup on an alternate more advanced way to connect up the bi-xenon flapper wires without using a 9005 extension:
</img>

Enjoy!
Cheers for that! Was planning to do more straight wiring on my current retro project and it looks much nicer than using extra extensions.
:thumbup:
Lol @ $16 ballast https://www.skbowe.com/a/2017/11/03/ballast-testing-20-ebay-kit-not-buy/




Hint: If a ballast weighs 3 Oz (85G) and cost less that $20, you probably want to avoid it :)
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Auch....

Thanks for doing the research and sharing it here! Hopefully people will understand better that some kits are more expensive for a reason... :thumbup:
When I ordered the connectors for the coolant level sensor, I also picked up some for the solenoid control boards so I could make y'all some pigtails in OEM colors... If you are gathering parts for a bi-xenon retrofit they might come in handy...



I should have enough of these to go around, so no rush.

BTW, shipped SKBOWE #47 of 50 today! Home stretch... Batch 3 is in limbo ATM, since everyone here that needed a set has it, I'm leaning towards it being a 2020 kind of thing. Maybe a slight redesign with a connector+harness rather than permanent leads to give it a more OEM look. So many projects, so little time!

Speaking of which, on the roadmap for Batch 3 is a DRL detector output based on the Pololu Medium RC Switch (2803) hardware (w/custom firmware) that can be integrated into the SKBOWE housing to provide a (-) signal when the dimmed-low-beam DRLs are activated. The idea would be to have an optional relay harness that could divert the low beam power to some other lights (e.g. fogs) when the DRLs are active, but switch back to the HID ballast at night - automatically! For the $7.50 (each) I'd probably source them assembled - the board is small enough to fit inside of the SKBOWE enclosure, with decent component ratings (105c), and the ability to sink up to 15A of current (overkill for a relay). Don't get too excited though, as busy as I've been there are several months of R&D ahead before a prototype, and like I said above, probably a few years before Batch 3 goes into production...
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....

Speaking of which, on the roadmap for Batch 3 is a DRL detector output based on the Pololu Medium RC Switch (2803) hardware (w/custom firmware) that can be integrated into the SKBOWE housing to provide a (-) signal when the dimmed-low-beam DRLs are activated. The idea would be to have an optional relay harness that could divert the low beam power to some other lights (e.g. fogs) when the DRLs are active, but switch back to the HID ballast at night - automatically!....
Thumbs up for the idea, man! So anyone with DRLs still active could get SKBOWe instead paying stupid volvo to disable them AND in the same time you can have real-behaving DRLs? That is a really cool solution for EU countries with obligatory lights 24/7, hats off for you sir :) :thumbup:
Quick update on the SKBOWE project:
- All 50 of the original Batch1 (26) and Batch2 (24) units have sold!
- As of right now, there is one left under the 'Open Box' selection on the order form, SN#003 which was used to take photos on the site (never in a car)
- Parts on order for Batch3 (23) and Batch4 (27), the final 50 of the original run of 100.
- Batch3 preorder is open, will ship NLT 1-Feb-18. Price adjusted to $110 to cover costs.
- Batch4 ETA TBD, probably around July. Limited number of these may have customization options, depending on interest.

Sincere thanks to everyone who stuck with me on this project, and I hope you are all enjoying your lights :)

Oh, and BTW if you are not in the install gallery send me pics!
2
I just pulled the trigger on this pair of 2016-2017 Camaro Gen2 projectors. Fingers crossed I didn't make a noob mistake going with these ones.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322691354945



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I just pulled the trigger on this pair of 2016-2017 Camaro Gen2 projectors. Fingers crossed I didn't make a noob mistake going with these ones.
Those are correct, nice find!

Notes:
- You'll have to bend the oval shaped tab out of the way or remove it completely for it to accept D2S bulbs.
- The black plastic shroud needs to come off for it to fit in our housings.
- Watch the polarity on the solenoid connectors as they are not color coded. Follow "Gen2" wiring in the projector selection pdf (from the OP)

If they are from a 2016 they are probably super clean. Very nice.
Whew! These were the only pair I could find under $100 that didn't have burn marks. Thank you for the tips and confirmation.

Also, thanks very much to you and Nick for the helpful guides on identifying the "good stuff". It was most helpful to me. This will be my first lighting upgrade project and it's insanely great to have all these resources here at SwedeSpeed. The miserable low beams in these P1 cars certainly need it.

Kind Regards,
Keith / "Walky T."
I looked at buying those Camaro projectors a while back, but by then I already had about 4 sets of projectors lol. Good luck and please report back with pics about the mod needed to get D2S bulbs in that holder, or maybe Shadow can mark up one of those posted pics (?). Every newer projector I saw for sale had those retainers so I shied away from them , even though I knew they could be made to work somehow.

Are you going to leave those funky lenses?
maybe Shadow can mark up one of those posted pics (?).
How's this?


(click for more)
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Just an FYI to people still interested, I have two sets of clean OEM projectors ready to go. Haven't heard from people over the past few months, but I also haven't been posting :)
Just an FYI to people still interested, I have two sets of clean OEM projectors ready to go. Haven't heard from people over the past few months, but I also haven't been posting :)
+1 . If you buy projectors from Nick and preorder a SKBOWE batch 3 I'll throw in a set of Volvo color coded connectors for free :)

BTW all the projector tab bending/compatibility credit goes to Nick, I'm just documenting it.
How's this?
Perfect ... so simple :)
Well, I got *one* side installed. Car looks kind of silly with just 1 HID, but I wanted to do it one at a time, so I could make sure the aiming and such matched the factory.

Some notes:
- There were no modifications necessary to the Camaro projectors for D2S bulb fitment. They [basically] went right in. Didn't bend any key tabs.
- The bulb retention mechanism on these "octagon" type holders can take some force. The trick is pushing the bulb DOWN, into the mechanism while you twist. If you just twist, you can break stuff.
- I'm using a 55w DDM Slim ballast kit from several years back. The DDM D2S pigtail/fitting was interfering a bit with the rear cover installation. I was able to clearance it using some high-tech methods. Those methods involved warming [read: nearly catching fire to] the cover with a BIC lighter in my kitchen and then pushing out the offending area with the back of a spoon.
- The low beam did end up slightly higher than stock (compared to high beam). At ~10 feet it was about an inch higher I would say.

I did not think the slightly raised low beam it was enough to worry about. The halogen high beam is still above it, and the bi-xenon projector itself still has the high beam mode, of course. I plan to just carefully aim the projectors as high as I can get away with and it should work pretty well.

Except I screwed up:
I thought I'd be cool and use water tight "cable glands" to pass the wires though the rear cover. Well it worked great, except for me being a dunce and not checking the car to see if there was clearance for them! I ran into some fairly direct interference with the washer fluid filler neck. I pulled the neck out for now, so everything else fits. Just have to figure out what I'm going to do. I'll probably start by not being a absolute dunce. Solid plan, I think. ;)
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Don’t feel too bad about placement, I didn’t check mine and it has to make a sharp 90 at the AC lines. Nick picked a bad location too, he used fiberglass to fill the hole and redrilled it correctly...

Thanks for the tip on thermoforming the cover, I’ll add that to the site!

I don’t know about PA, but in VA it’s wayyy too cold to be working on the car...
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