[rhags138]

Yeah, everything works fine on the pass side, minus the occasional BOW now. Only the cheap kensun works on the drivers side. I didn't start getting the BOW until I tried to install the other morimoto ballast. Even with the first ballast install, I had to plug/unplug the power input from the ballast several times before it stopped going out after 30sec. I probably just have to fiddle around with it more........after I get the mechanic's diagnosis.


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[theshadow27]

Whoa non of that sounds like working fine... Did you send me an email that I missed?

Going out after 30 seconds is usually DRL thing - your LSM is in Position II right? Either that or bad connections somewhere. The ground is for WMM protection, shouldn't cause or affect any of those symptoms.

 

[rhags138]

No, you didn't miss an email. It is in Pos II. It resolved after I fiddled with the ballast a while(5 min) I figured it was just the ballast "learning" the system. Didn't think anything of it until it started happening again after I tried to install the other ballast(I had the kensun on the drivers side and morimoto on the pass side. The kensun still flickered but the morimoto was fine. That was good for 2+ weeks until I tried to install the 2nd morimoto ballast.

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[theshadow27]

Ok, well, if you do get to playing with it, check the HV (single pin) connectors too - they are notoriously finicky. I've found tightly setting a 4" zip tie around the barrel where the latch is to hold it closed (you'll see what I mean, only fits in one place) helps fro some reason. Also check / re-seat the Morimoto ignitor connectors, and make sure nothing is pulling too tightly at a weird angle with them. Oh and look for fraying insulation inside the headlight housing, make sure there isn't anything funky going on at the H11 connector.

 

[beachnut]

Hmm, should I be wary of Morimoto stuff? I was planning on getting AMP XB35 ballasts/igniters with 90' AMP>D2S pigtails, and a set of ZKW-R lenses. I also have a new (very good used) set of headlight assemblies, which not only have much better looking lenses inside & out, but no internal wire fraying. Both my original assemblies were really awful. Even though I've fixed them all up neatly with cloth harness tape the new lights give me the ability to retrograde easily if needed.

 

[theshadow27]

The Morimoto ballasts themselves seem decent, but their D2S ignitors are cheaply made. Nick had a great idea WRT install that allows the ignitors to be quickly swapped out, and looks much much better when installed



By epoxying the male 4-pin to the cover, and making up a 4-wire harness to the female, it looks totally stock when installed. I also picked up a spare set of housings, and will write up this method with nice pictures when I can get around to it.

I think the main thing Morimoto has going for it is their support - TRS is decent WRT warranty claims.

EDIT: Also, with any ballast, but especially the Morimotos, it's critical to mount them so water can't collect in the connectors. Straight down is preferable, if sideways there should be a slight downwards slant. Same with the SKBOWE, the wires should come out of the bottom!

P.S. This sort of discussion is why I wanted to stay out of the ballast recommendation game - none of this has anything to do with the SKBOWE.

 

[rhags138]

Well, spun bearing....so I guess I will be posting a set up on the classifieds.

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[Fwinns]

Don't let the DRL disable hold up your 35W install - just keep LSM in II until you get to it. Every SKBOWE runs a 50W Morimoto kit for 10 minutes on simulated DRL during testing (if it can run that, it can run anything) so nothing will explode ** if it gets switched by accident. It's just not great for any of the stuff long term (especially on a hot day after driving hard, etc), if it was always on DRL it's something like taking the expected life from 20,000 hours to 5,000 hours.

BTW do you know the other dude in Philly?

Edit:

** Depending on you kits wattage and design, running a KBOWE + HID with the LSM in position II might trigger a hidden (silent) short circuit DTC (aka VIDA code) for a headlight circuit out of range low. If this happens, that side will be disabled until you remove the key and restart the car. There will be no warning displayed, and switching from 0 to II while the car is on (or the key is in) will not re-start the ballast. Restarting the car in position 0 will probably result in another error, making it seem like a fuse is blown or something is hooked up wrong. If this happens, take the key out, turn the LSM to II, and restart the car.

...But rather than explain all of that and have to deal with confused people, the "official" guidance is disable DRL.

Hi,

Can you extrapolate a bit on the position II possible error? What kinds of ballast are susceptible to this error? Here in Canada we can't really disable DRL, so I just want to leave it in the II position

 

[theshadow27]

Hi,

Can you extrapolate a bit on the position II possible error? What kinds of ballast are susceptible to this error? Here in Canada we can't really disable DRL, so I just want to leave it in the II position

There is no problem leaving LSM in position II.

The only problem comes with LSM in position 0, DRL disable helps if you forget about this. I will soon post info on how to modify LSM connector to make 0=II, as alternate way to ensure no problem if it's set to 0 by mistake.

 

[Fwinns]

There is no problem leaving LSM in position II.

The only problem comes with LSM in position 0, DRL disable helps if you forget about this. I will soon post info on how to modify LSM connector to make 0=II, as alternate way to ensure no problem if it's set to 0 by mistake.

I was referring to the "hidden error" you mentioned, and the light turning off and having to turn off the car to be able to turn it on again. If it happens only with certain HID ballast (brand? wattage?), I just want to avoid buying these and but ones that do not cause any error

 

[theshadow27]

I was referring to the "hidden error" you mentioned, and the light turning off and having to turn off the car to be able to turn it on again. If it happens only with certain HID ballast (brand? wattage?), I just want to avoid buying these and but ones that do not cause any error

Again, the hidden error happens only when LSM is in Pos0. It affects all brands of ballasts, it is caused by the CEM not the ballast. Even 35w ballast draw 40-45W, at 50% duty of Pos0 that is peaks of 80-95W, which trips the short circuit protection. The way to prevent it is to avoid or disable Pos0.

In PosII the lowest duty is 85%, so like I said, leave it in II and you will have no problems.

PS Batch2 orders placed before this weekend will probably ship out same day

 

[theshadow27]

New How-To posted on skbowe.com: the DRL Disarm - so called to differentiate it from the software DRL disable. Basically by removing pin 6 (black/green) from the LSM connector - or cutting the wire - the CEM thinks that Position 0 is actually Position II, and all the DRL issues go away!


(click pics for full writeup)

Cost: $0

Time: 5 minutes

Seeing at night: Priceless!

 

[LizardOfBodom]

Cost: $0

Time: 5 minutes

Seeing at night: Priceless!

Can you hear this sound?....

... thats the "AAawwwww" sound of all dealerships that from today are loosing portion of their extortion money for people NOT ordering DRL disable software anymore

u sir deserve a beer! :beer:

 

[beachnut]

Yep, and kudos to Shadow as always for figuring this out. This doesn't disable DRL though, just the low-duty voltage on position 0. Your lights will still be on, and since I want to be to be a cool dude I want to do the true disable w/ the software download. Just need to ask my dealer what they want for it. If it's just a few dollars more than a 3-day subscription and the $30 software I will let them do it. Not worth messing my hacked Vida install up to load 2015 web version.

 

[Fwinns]

Again, the hidden error happens only when LSM is in Pos0. It affects all brands of ballasts, it is caused by the CEM not the ballast. Even 35w ballast draw 40-45W, at 50% duty of Pos0 that is peaks of 80-95W, which trips the short circuit protection. The way to prevent it is to avoid or disable Pos0.

In PosII the lowest duty is 85%, so like I said, leave it in II and you will have no problems.

PS Batch2 orders placed before this weekend will probably ship out same day

Ok I understand, I think there's a mistake in your original post, it should read pos 0 can create an hidden error, not position II (which makes sense).
I'll probably order a set this weekend then, thanks!

 

[theshadow27]

Ok I understand, I think there's a mistake in your original post, it should read pos 0 can create an hidden error, not position II (which makes sense).
I'll probably order a set this weekend then, thanks!

Fixed, thanks:

** Depending on you kits wattage and design, running a KBOWE + HID with the LSM in Position 0 might trigger a hidden (silent) short circuit DTC (aka VIDA code) for a headlight circuit out of range low. If this happens, that side will be disabled until you remove the key and restart the car. There will be no warning displayed, and switching from 0 to II while the car is on (or the key is in) will not re-start the ballast. Restarting the car in position 0 will probably result in another error, making it seem like a fuse is blown or something is hooked up wrong. If this happens, take the key out, turn the LSM to II, and restart the car.

...But rather than explain all of that and have to deal with confused people, the "official" guidance is disable DRL. Alternately, you can disable Position 0: https://www.skbowe.com/a/2017/09/27/how-to-drl-disarm-aka-lsm-position-0-disable/

EDIT: Fixed the above to read correctly (thanks Fwinns)

 

[Saab]

I have been running my SKBOWE with Morimoto XB35 for three weeks now and I am very impressed with the light output. It's night and day compared to the halogens. I originally used the 50W ballast, but this overpowered the headlight and I was being flashed by other drivers. The 35W kit is the perfect setup, in terms of not being overly bright and still giving a good light output. I have not been flashed with this setup, which is important. I have kept my setup stock so I am using the existing projector, but I do see the appeal of going down the E46 route. If you are looking to keep it simple, by using the existing projector with 35W ballast is the perfect combination. I have been waiting for a safe solution to run HID in my C30. A big shout out to Jacob for designing the SKBOWE. He has designed a high quality product and is very knowledgeable when you are seeking help. If you have been waiting to upgrade your halogen P1 Volvo with HID, you need SKBOWE!

 

[theshadow27]

FYI, SKBOWE Batch 2 is shipping now - there are 15 units left.

And as a heads-up: If it does happen (not sure yet) Batch 3 will need to be priced at least at $120-125ish.

If you have been waiting to upgrade your halogen P1 Volvo with HID, you need SKBOWE!

:thumbup: :beer:

BTW, SKBOWE #037 shipped yesterday!

 

[stevie_n1]

FYI, SKBOWE Batch 2 is shipping now - there are 15 units left.

And as a heads-up: If it does happen (not sure yet) Batch 3 will need to be priced at least at $120-125ish.

:thumbup: :beer:

BTW, SKBOWE #037 shipped yesterday!

Any sets left for H7? What would delivery to Ireland be? Looking to change to HID. Thanks.

 

[theshadow27]

Hi Stevie_n1,

Any sets left for H7?

There are 15 sets left.
Each set does not include the HID kit (H7/H11/D2S) - you buy this separately.

What would delivery to Ireland be?

Intenational shipping changers are calculated automatically during checkout. It will show you when you press the "buy it now" button

Looking to change to HID. Thanks.

These and many other questions are answered on https://www.skbowe.com/a/ ...