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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


I get that aging springs and struts can affect the alignment. But why does this cause the rear toes to seize?

Sorry in advance if this a dumb question.


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Discussion Starter · #2 ·

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The cam bolt goes through the metal sleeve of the bushing, when thats siezed you cant adjust it. Well the bushing is holding it, sometime you can get crazy and just bust the sleeve from the rubber and get adjustment. Usually I have to heat bolt with a torch a bit both sides and if just enough you can get it loose, too far melts the bushing, sometimes inevitable. It may be usable, but still in all cases, money allowing, the bushing should be changed.

Ipd arm not really needed, all you need to do is notch the mounting bracket to allow more movement, we've done this for years in the alignment business. Thats how my R is, im lowered and I'm at -.5 camber zero toe notched.

But if you want to be cool just spend the money on ipd for more infinite adjustment if you really need more than the stock adjustmemts.

Are you planning on lowering?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The cam bolt goes through the metal sleeve of the bushing, when thats siezed you cant adjust it. Well the bushing is holding it, sometime you can get crazy and just but the sleeve from the rubber and get adjustment. Usually i have to heat bolt with a torch quite a while both sides and if just enough you can get it loose, too far melts the bushing. It may be usable, but still in all cases, money allowing, the bushing should be changed.

Ipd arm not really needed, all you need to do is notch the mounting bracket to allow more movement, we've done this for years in the alignment business. Thats how my R is, im lowered and I'm at -.5 camber zero toe notched.

But if you want to be cool just spend the money on ipd for more infinite adjustment if you really need more than the stock adjustmemts.

Are you planning on lowering?
Don’t me wrong the blue arm looks cool. But I’ve got no plans to lower anytime soon.

Do I just need new hardware and bushings then? And not whole new arms?


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Best case is you just need new hardware.
Next best case is they can get the bolt out without damaging the arm but just melting the bushing. Then you need hardware and bushings.
Worst case is the arm and hardware need to be cut off and you need arms, bushings and hardware.

If you have no need for additional adjustment, the OEM arms are all you need.
 

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The adjustable toe rods are really nice. Stock seems like junk by comparison, but if you can get the toe right they're fine. Most alignment shops don't have half a clue so try to find decent one. Hard to comment further without seeing your numbers, but a good amount of negative camber can be tolerated as long as your toe is good. I'm running around -1 in front and -1.3 in rear for camber on a pretty severely lowered car with IPD camber bushings in rear and a camber kit up front. Go for zero toe in back...real world zero not zero off the spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Best case is you just need new hardware.
Next best case is they can get the bolt out without damaging the arm but just melting the bushing. Then you need hardware and bushings.
Worst case is the arm and hardware need to be cut off and you need arms, bushings and hardware.

If you have no need for additional adjustment, the OEM arms are all you need.
Ok OEM it is!

Does anyone have the p/n for the bushings handy?

I can’t tell looking at VIDAs diagrams....






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I would go with adjustable length toe arm like ipd or similar. Using an offset bolt to hold rear toe just seams like some caveman sh!t. I'm sure it works, but I would think that has a greater chance of slipping than adjustable length style.

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Never seen one slip, all it really does is pinch the bushing tight in the frame. Thats what holds it. But ip toe contol arms will be better for the track. Less flex in the arm under heavy stress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok so there may be some performance benefit to the iPd arm even if I don’t lower it.

Similarly, is there any reason to go with poly replacement bushings here?

https://www.vivaperformance.com/polyurethane-bushings-volvo-s60-v70-xc70-awd/

Also does anybody know which bushings I should get?

The Powerflex diagram mentions a toe bushing but the part number doesn’t seem right when cross referenced with VIDA.


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Why do you think you need a new bushing?

I'm in the rear doing all powerflex "race" bushings right now and I skipped the two that are for the toe arm that we're talking about. The OEM bushings are really small, don't have much rubber and are pretty stiff already.
If yours are damaged yeah I would do poly over OEM but that's just me. Those small bushings in the rear aren't too hard to press out compared to the bigger bushings back there.

Also bushing locations 4 and 9 on the powerflex diagram are for the rear toe arm. Powerflex calls the forward arm the toe control arm, which it kind of is but the arm that we're talking about which allows you to set the toe is what I would call the toe arm.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Why do you think you need a new bushing?
I'm in the rear doing all powerflex "race" bushings right now and I skipped the two that are for the toe arm that we're talking about. The OEM bushings are really small, don't have much rubber and are pretty stiff already.
If yours are damaged yeah I would do poly over OEM but that's just me. Those small bushings in the rear aren't too hard to press out compared to the bigger bushings back there.

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I figured if the Volvo tech said they are seized, I’m gonna have to destroy the bushing to get the seized bolt out.

It would be great if I can get away with just replacing the hardware, but I wanted to plan for the worst


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I would think you could get that bolt out of there without destroying the bushing but I'm not looking at it so I can't really say. Are you doing the work yourself?

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I would think you could get that bolt out of there without destroying the bushing but I'm not looking at it so I can't really say. Are you doing the work yourself?

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I was going to try it myself. I was surprised when the tech said it was seized. The car has only been through 5 New England winters, other than that it was either garaged or in California.


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Yeah that sounds like BS my car has been through 15 Midwestern winters and they never seized haha. I mean if you get under there with a bigazz breaker bar, you're going to break the nut and bolt free or snap the head off the nut or bolt in which case you could take a punch and punch the bolt out of the bushing. Put in a new nut and bolt and it's done.

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I'll be doing all of the rear subframe bushings starting this week. I'll post a pic of everything single bushing and the purchase list.
 

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I've seen plenty seize, it happens.

Check first if you want, it's not hard to tell. Just need an 18mm and 19mm.

If they arent seized and you turn the bolt, make sure you get it aligned soon since you just changed your toe.
 

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I'll be doing all of the rear subframe bushings starting this week. I'll post a pic of everything single bushing and the purchase list.
Good luck I just got done with that job

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Pix! I know I'm going to need all the help I can get!
 
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