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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I just got final word on what is wrong with my car.(if you havent read any of my earlier posts I was running 17psi max boost in my 850 T-5, and well it just couldnt hang). I bent all 5 connecting rods causing all of my rod bearings to be severely worn also. In addition to this they have found a design flaw/defect in my head and I have to replace that. Well I just wondering what rods to replace it with, because I intent on getting my boost back up soon. Should I get rods from a V70R or shoot for forged. Thanks
 

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I feel bad for you, I can definitely relate. Don't bother wasting your money on another set of Volvo rods, R or not R..doesn't matter. I've tried telling people this once before on another site..

Get a set of Crower rods or get the same ones I got, Cunningham rods. It's funny how after I started talking about them all the sudden, and some others are suggesting them to everyone when this brand was not really that known before.


Back to the topic..you can probably have Carillo custom a set for you. I think some Japanese tuner also use them, too. Pretty much the best you can get for rods.

The only problem you will run into right now is the lead time. I am pretty sure none of the three major manufacturers will have anything off the shelf that they can supply you right a way. So....not sure what else to suggest. Well, best of luck, let us know if there is anything we can help.


Yeah, I'm gonna say, there must been other problems with your car for you to bend the rods at that kind of boost level. My cousin's 850 is running 20+ psi and it's still alive and kicking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info on the forged rods, which I wish i could do but, I found out since my head is defective and my bent rods caused my cylinder walls to be scratched I will need a new engine, I found an used 1997 850R motor w/turbo in great shape @ 72000miles for 3400.00 so I guess that is my best bet. I was just wondering the internals are stronger on an 850R than an 850 T-5? Thanks in advance.
 

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quote:

Originally posted by The_one_n_only:
I feel bad for you, I can definitely relate.
Why? Have you been a victim?


quote:

Don't bother wasting your money on another set of Volvo rods, R or not R..doesn't matter. I've tried telling people this once before on another site..
Are OEM Volvo rods not up to the task? Wjat do you think is the max boost they could/should/would take? About 19ish or 20?

Yannis
 

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quote:

Originally posted by GrecianVolvo:
Are OEM Volvo rods not up to the task? What do you think is the max boost they could/should/would take? About 19ish or 20?
I just don't trust the Volvo factory rods that much...gee I wonder why.


Max boost....really hard to explain on this one. Let me sleep on it and I'll let you know how I want to approach this....it's not really the boost level per say. Everything else matters, too....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am starting to not trust the shop I am going to since they are pushing for me to get a new motor instead of rebuilding mine to higher specs. I was just wondering if it would be possible, and about how much to replace the Head, have my cylinders re-done since they have slight wear, also I need new pistons, and rods. Or should I just put in the 1996 850R motor @72000mi for 3400.00? Thanks
 

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quote:

Originally posted by LoSeR_5150:
I am starting to not trust the shop I am going to since they are pushing for me to get a new motor instead of rebuilding mine to higher specs. I was just wondering if it would be possible, and about how much to replace the Head, have my cylinders re-done since they have slight wear, also I need new pistons, and rods. Or should I just put in the 1996 850R motor @72000mi for 3400.00? Thanks
Honestly, you are better off just drop in that engine they offer you..well of course try to bargain for a better price, unless that $3.4K includes labor already.

To go through and rebuild the head and the upper end will take at least a good 2~3 weeks, needless to say it will take forever to get the rods in. If you can afford to let the car sit idle for the next 4~6 months, then wait for the components. Or better yet, if you can afford to let them drop that motor in first and have them rebuild that old blown engine of yours..THEN swap that rebuilt engine when it's done 6 months down the road.

If you don't mind the overall cost and have other means of transportation, then DO IT!
 

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quote:

Originally posted by The_one_n_only:
Honestly, you are better off just drop in that engine they offer you..well of course try to bargain for a better price, unless that $3.4K includes labor already.
I would concur with that. If the engine and the turbocharger are in good shape then they are worth it. If this figure includes labor, then don't even think twice about it. It is a BARGAIN! When we replace engines here, retail figures (incl. labor) approach $6k to $7K.

Yannis
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The motor figure of 3400.00 did not include labor unfortunately, they said about 5G's all said and done. However they said it will be 3500.00 to rebuild the motor which includes honing the cylinders to repair slight scuffing, new piston rings, rods, and rod bearings. I was wondering how long would it take to order forged rods? I am also going to want an EGT guage soon, any recomendations? I am also going to get a dawes devices mbc and just adjust my boost to 15psi after I have the Fuel Pressure Regulator installed also, does it matter if I go with fully adjustable or rising rate? Thanks in advance
 

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quote:

Originally posted by LoSeR_5150:
I was wondering how long would it take to order forged rods? I am also going to want an EGT guage soon, any recomendations?
3500? That's pretty good price. But I think you are probably missing out the parts cost. All the parts add up, and I don't think $3500 will take care of all the labor and parts. How long does it take to order those aftermarket rods and pistons? Why don't you call them yourself and find out? They will probably give you an unrealistic lead time that fools you to order from them...and you will probably end up waiting for them for more than 3 months if not more.
Like I said, pick up the phone and just contact them. Don't be lazy and let those guys do it for you. You want to have more control for the overall project.
BTW, there is not much you can do on the cylinders...you can probably fix whatever you have there, but don't attempt to bore them without resleeving first.
Rest assure that the project will not only cost you $3500. Don't be a victim, be more active if you really want to go along with this. You'd seriously need to do more research.....not sure how experienced you are with something like this....just don't be too naive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks, I am going to look into the rods today, Plus my uncle who is a mechanic is going to go and look at my car also to check the damage. Thanks again, I will post when I get some more info and get that bad boy running again.
 

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I am about to buy a 94 850 turbo with 130k on the clock that was in a rear end collision. The engine is in great condition, the only parts i need are body peices, and i could sell the engine to you if you are interested.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the help everyone. I found it today that it will be 5,000.00 on the dot for labor and parts to restore my engine. I am in the process of getting some cunningham rods, well just waiting on their response of how long will it take, and how much money =) . I did have a question though, how important is it that I replace my pistons with forged? Is it necessary if I only plan on running from 15-17psi (well whatever I dont run lean at) . My only other question is what is the best way to monitor A/F mixture? Should I get an A/F guage, or just monitor my exhaust gas temps? Howe does an EGT guage work (where does it connect and what not) also which should I get and from where? Thanks again

[This message has been edited by LoSeR_5150 (edited 05-24-2002).]
 

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quote:

Originally posted by LoSeR_5150:
I did have a question though, how important is it that I replace my pistons with forged? Is it necessary if I only plan on running from 15-17psi (well whatever I dont run lean at) . My only other question is what is the best way to monitor A/F mixture? Should I get an A/F guage, or just monitor my exhaust gas temps? Howe does an EGT guage work (where does it connect and what not) also which should I get and from where?
I seriously don't want to sound rude or anything, but from the questions you have been asking and how you ended up bending your rods...I'm just not too sure how knowledgeable you are at this. I'm just a bit worried....you sure you want to go through all these?

How involved you want this whole project to be? Have you done any other research than asking questions online? It's just that not all the information you are going to find from others is going to be completely valid. And I'm just not sure if now I just start giving you BS and you would just take them into consideration and do accordingly.

Not that I don't want to share notes or anything...there is just too much to tell especially when I start to realize your situation. Just makes me wonder if this is something you should be going through.

Well, there...I let it off my chest, probably gonna get flamed for not being a Mr. Nice Guy...but I think you do need to gauge yourself when you want to venture into something that you have no deep understanding and knowledge in.

Just my 0.00002 Yen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Due to the fact that I am only 18yrs old you are correct I have a limited understanding of the internal components of cars. However I have done lots and lots of research on what I can do to my volvo to make it faster, I will not be installing Rods, pistons, or anything else relating to internals of my engine. I can only do simple **** like change my oil/brakes. However that still doesnt mean I dont want to learn, and dont want to replace my rods with some good ol forged rods. Sorry I have been so bothersome and had so many questions, its just that this time when I get my boost back up I wanna do it right and make sure my car will handle it. Being 18yrs old makes it pretty damn hard to pay for maintaing an 850 t-5 without me bending rods, and such. Thanks for your input, I wont post anymore on the issue. -J
 

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That's exactly why I didn't really want to reply what I wanted to say.
It's not the questions that's bothersome, it's the thought that you are not even 100% sure where you are heading that bothered me.

Maybe I'll just let others take care of this one...more things I say would just make this uglier.
 
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